服装服饰术语：常见正规晚礼服(Black-Tie)

精选优质文档-----倾情为你奉上精选优质文档-----倾情为你奉上专心---专注---专业专心---专注---专业精选优质文档-----倾情为你奉上专心---专注---专业服装服饰术语：常见正规晚礼服（BlackTie)服饰术语：常见正规晚礼服（BlackTie）北美的宴会或舞会，请贴上一般都会注明着装要求（DressCode），分以下几种情况：一，WhiteTie或者说是Ultra－formal：这是最最正式的场合，什么授勋仪式、宫廷晚宴之类的，我们平常百姓大概一辈子也碰不上一次。男士要穿燕尾服（tailcoat），配套的是白色马甲，白色衬衫，白色领结。裤子两侧有两道笔直的竖条。裤子不用皮带用吊带。女士要穿大裙摆的长晚礼服。二，BlackTie或者说是Formal：这是最常见的正规着装要求，男士要穿晚礼服（Tuxedo），前襟领子是黑缎面的，配白衬衫，黑领结，黑腰带，黑袜子，黑鞋。裤子两侧夹缝有和领子同面料的黑缎夹条。如果一年赶上那么一次半次的，可以去租全套设备回来用，省心省力。女士穿晚礼服（Eveninggown），低胸露肩的那种，相配的小包和鞋子。项链、耳环等首饰的真假无所谓，但是要闪亮，戴手镯而不是手表。妆要浓一些，俺看到许多知识分子同胞在宴会场所化淡妆或者根本不化妆，那脸在灯光下惨淡的没法看，而且不化妆是十分失礼的一件事，比穿了不合适服装还要让人不舒服。中国女士可用面料好的剪裁得体的旗袍或改良旗袍代替晚礼服，穿旗袍时，头发挽起来配上头饰效果会比清汤挂面好很多。三，BlackTieOptional或者是CreativeBlackTie，男士可以穿Tuxedo或正式的深色圆摆西装，可以不打领结换成打领带，衬衫最好是白色的，女士可以是晚礼服、不拖地的四分之三长礼服或者是考究的晚宴两件套（dressyseparates），配备参考Formal。四，Semi-formal男士：深色西服女士：短礼服、考究的套装五，Cocktail鸡尾酒会一般在下午4点到7点举行，属于半正式着装，（Semi-formal）男士穿深色西装，女士穿短裙或套装，长度和白天服装相同，但用料要讲究，天鹅绒、丝绸缎子之类的，颜色要比白天的服装明亮，华贵，配上闪亮的首饰，可搭配围巾。要穿高跟鞋。妆比白天要浓。六，DressyCasual男士：比较讲究一点的便装，像西装上衣配休闲裤，衬衣休闲西裤等。女士：连衣裙，漂亮上衣配裤子，毛衣配裙子等可以自由发挥。七，BusinessCasual比DressyCasual再随便一些，但是不能穿牛仔裤。八，Casual或Informal这种说法意味着可以随便穿，但是短裤、凉鞋还是要避免，当然你也不要西装革履的。有时越随便的穿着，越能看出人的品味，不能掉以轻心。女士穿一件质地普通的连衣裙肯定比穿牛仔裤雅致。化淡妆。总的原则，你比别人穿的相对正式一点比穿的随便要好。Blacktie,knownintheUnitedKingdom(andalsointhenorth-easternUnitedStates,andCanada)asadinnerjacketandintheUnitedStatesgenerallyasatuxedo,isadresscodeforformaleveningeventsthatarenotformalenoughtorequirewhitetie.Blacktieistodaywornatawidevarietyoffunctions,andthecorrespondingfemaleattirecanrangefromashortcocktaildresstoalonggown,dependingonfashion,localcustomandthehouratwhichthefunctiontakesplace.HistoryTheAmericannametuxedoistakenfromTuxedoPark,NewYork,aprivateclubofcountryhousesfoundedbyPierreLorillard,thetobaccoheir.(ThetownofTuxedoandTuxedoParkthemselveswerenamedbytheLenni-LenapeIndians,whocalledthelargestlakeintheareatucseto,meaningeitherplaceofthebearorclearflowingwater.)Traditionally,thefirstAutumnBall,heldattheTuxedoClubinOctober1886,markedtheofficialfirstAmericanappearanceoftheEnglishdinnerjacket,whichwasfavoredbythefastsportingcrowdroundthePrinceofWales,wholikedtoweara"Cowes"jacket,somewhatlikeaformalmessjacket,firstatdinneraboardhisyachtduringtheregattasheldatCowes,andthenlateratothereveningentertainments,thoughneverinLondon.Theoriginalsingle-breastedmodelwassimplyatailcoatwithoutatail,wornwithawhitepiqu?vestaswouldbewornwithatailcoat,thenlaterwithablackvestensuitewiththejacketandtrousers.Atthe1886TuxedoParkAutumnBall,PierreLorillard'syoungsonGriswoldLorillardandhisfriendsstartledguests,allinwhitetieandtailcoats,bywearingthenewEnglishdinnerjackets,withscarleteveningvests.Thetaillesscoatsweresimilarincuttohuntingpinkswornindaytimeatfoxhuntingmeets.Whenafter1889,gentlemenin"tuxedos"wereevenadmittedtotheDressCircleatthenewMetropolitanOpera,thesuccessofthenewfashionwasmade.ATuxedoParkinsiderrecallsadifferentstoryoftheTuxedoParkintroductionofblacktie,toldhiminthe1920sbyGrenvilleKane,thelastfoundingmemberoftheTuxedoClub.KanerememberedthatithadbeenJamesBrownPotterwho,afterstayingwiththePrinceofWalesatSandringhaminthesummerof1886,broughtbackthenewfashiontoTuxedoandintroducedittothemembersoftheclubTheAmericanupperclassesnowgenerallyprefertheterms"blacktie"or"dinnerjacket"to"tuxedo",whichisconsideredslightlyvulgar.Earlyeveningclotheswereuniformlyblack.TheDukeofWindsor,whenPrinceofWales,introducedmidnightblueasanappropriatecolor,andevenmadethedouble-breasteddinnerjacketacceptable.Thewaistsashcalledcummerbund(orcumberbund)wasborrowedafterWorldWarI,frommilitarydressinBritishIndia.WhatitisInthedayswheneveningdresswasworneveryevening,blacktiedevelopedasaformofeveningdressofwhichthecomponentsdidnotrequirecostlyfrequentlaunderingandstarching,unlikewhitetie.Blacktieleavesalottothewearer'sdiscretioncomparedtothefarmorecodifiedwhitetie(e.g.single-versusdouble-breastedcoat).Nonetheless,sofarasaconventionexists,itisthatblacktieproperlyconsistsof:Blackshortcoatwithsilk(ribbedorsatin)lapels(peakedorshawl-collared),usuallywithoutvents.Asanalternatetotheabove,awhitedinnerjacket,suitableforwarmclimates,orfrommid-AprilthroughLaborDay(UnitedStatesandCanada)BlacktrouserswitharowofbraidorribbondowneachlegWhiteshirtBlacksilkbowtieBlacklow-cutwaistcoat(calledavestinCanadaandtheUS),oracummerbundBlacksocksBlackshoesOtherStylesColouredbowties,waistcoatsandcummerbundsarewidespreadatparties,butnotappropriateatmoreformaloccasions.Ontheotherhand,wearingawhitebowtiewithadinnerjacketisconsideredagravesolecism(thoughthefirstdinnerjacketswerewornwithwhiteties).Colouredorpatterneddinnerjacketsaresometimesseenbutarenotappropriateatformaloccasions.IntheUnitedStates,thewearingofacollarlessshirtwithoutabowtie,closedwithastudorbanded,hasbecomefashionable,butwouldagainnotbeseene.g.astatedinner.Cufflinksandshirtsstudscanbeblack,white,silver,orgold,andawhitehandkerchiefandflowermaybeworn.Inrecentyearsithasbecomeacceptabletowearstatedecorationswithblacktieatstateevents.Insuchcasesonlyoneneckribbonandonebreaststarareworn,withminiaturemedals.IntheUnitedKingdom,itisfeltinsomecirclesthatwingcollarsareproperlythepreserveofwhitetie,andthatashirtwithasoftturn-downcollarshouldbewornwithblacktie.However,initsearliestformblacktiewasalwayswornwithastiffwhiteshirtandstiffwingcollar.Whitewaistcoats,suchasthosewornwithwhitetie,remainanacceptablealternativetoblack.Blacktie,havingoriginatedasaninformaldresscodefore.g.diningathome,hasnosingleacceptedformofheadgear.Generallyasoftblackfelthatsuchasahomburgmaybeworntogetherwithanovercoat.CorrespondingformsofdressMessdressInthearmedforces,officersnormallywearmessuniformswhichcorrespondtoeveningdressorblacktie.Thesevaryaccordingtotheregimentorcorps,butusuallyinvolveashortEtonstylejacketthatcomestothewaist.Someformsincludewhiteshirtsandblackbowties,whileothershavehighmandarincollarsthatfastenaroundtheneck.Theyareusuallybrightlycolouredandornamentedwithgoldlaceandbuttons,correspondingtotheregimentorcorps.IntheRoyalNavythereisadistinctionbetween"messdress",whichiswornatwhitetieevents,and"messundress",whichiswornatblacktieevents.Botharewornwithablackbowtie,howevermessdressiswornwithawhitewaistcoatinsteadoftheusualblue.ScottishdressScottishdressisoftenwornatblacktieevents,especiallyatScottishreelsandceilidhs.Whilethereisamoreformalversionwhichmaybewornwhenthedresscodeiswhitetie,theblacktieversionismuchmorecommon,evenatwhitetieevents.ThetraditionalblacktieversionofHighlanddressconsistsof:BlackPrinceCharliejacketBlackwaistcoatKiltWhiteshirtBlackbowtieBlackGhilliebroguesWhitekilthoseFlashesOthercoloursforboththePrinceCharliejacket,andthehoseareseen.TheLowlandversionofblacktieisavariationonnormalblacktie,withtrewswornwithanormaldinnerjacketorPrinceCharlie