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穿露背装上班不好吗? WHATS WRONG WITH MY TIGHT DRESS?作者:英国金融时报专栏作家 露西凯拉韦 字号 最大 较大 默认 较小 最小 背景 收藏 电邮 打印 评论 中文 The Question问题The other day I turned up to work in a fairly tight sleeveless dress with a scoop neck and low back. I was taken aside by a woman at my level (who incidentally has a rather less good figure than mine) and told that if I wanted people to respect me, I should cover up a bit more. But I see other women in my office going to work practically naked and so am confused. Is there really a dress code any more? Does anyone care? Do I really have to roast in order to be seen as dressing for success? 前几天,我穿着一件低圆领紧身露背无袖连衣裙去上班,一位和我平级的女同事(顺便说一句,此人身材比我差很多)把我拉到一边,跟我说,如果我希望受到别人的尊重,那就最好别穿得这么暴露。可我们办公室里的其他女同事几乎都跟没穿一样,所以我感到很困惑:如今还有着装规范可言吗?还有人在乎吗?为了别人眼里的“穿出成功”,我真的必须捂得严严实实把自个儿热死吗?Manager, female, 27经理,女,27岁Lucys answer露西的回答When I was in my 20s and had just started working for a US bank, I was taken to one side by a female colleague and told that my clothes were all wrong. I had blown my first months salary on a blue suit from a groovy designer in Covent Garden that was nautical in style with oversized brass buttons and a divided skirt that ended above the knee. My colleague looked at it in disbelief. You look too weird, too attention-seeking and your skirt is too short, she said. Like you, I resented this unwanted intervention; unlike you, I scurried out and bought a frumpy, shapeless navy suit with a long skirt and a stock of button-down shirts. My new look was boring, frumpy and did the trick perfectly.我刚开始在一家美国银行工作时当时我二十几岁曾有位女同事把我拉到一边,跟我说,我的衣着错得离谱。我用第一个月的薪水,在考文特花园(Covent Garden)买了一套出自时尚设计师之手的蓝色套装,海军风,有着超大的铜扣,下身是长度不及膝盖的裙裤。结果我的同事看着我这身衣服,一脸难以置信的表情。她说,你看上去太怪异、太想引人注意了,而且你的裙子也太短了。和你一样,我讨厌人家这么多管闲事;跟你不一样的是,我当时连忙跑了出去,买了一身保守、丝毫显不出身材的深蓝色长裙套装,外加好几件有衣领扣的衬衫。我的新打扮显得乏味、古板,效果却十分理想。But it was different in those days. There was a dress code and only very stupid or very inexperienced people got it wrong. Women had to look like men. They had to hide their sexuality in order to be taken seriously. 但那个时代和现在不同。那时候有那时候的一套着装规范。只有愚蠢透顶的人和超级菜鸟才会搞错。女人必须打扮得跟男人一样。为了受到重视,她们必须掩盖性别特征。Now there is still a dress code, but it is hard to work out what it is and there is no longer any fixed penalty for breaking it. Smart women dont care about being “taken seriously”, they just want to get on. 如今依然有一套穿衣规范,但人们很难说清具体的条条框框,对违反规则的人也不再有什么固定的惩罚模式。聪明的女人不在乎是否“受到重视”,她们一心往上爬。There is even a respectable new name for what used to be called “flaunting it”: Catherine Hakim from the London School of Economics has come up with the concept of “erotic capital”, the possession of which is handy if one wants to get anywhere. People with a lot of erotic capital seem to do better than those without and even those not born with much can enhance their stock with a nice pair of high heels, lipstick and the right sort of skirt. I suspect your colleague may be well aware of this: her “helpful hint” was really a howl of protest at the fact that you have more erotic capital than she has. 昔日被叫做“招摇”的行为,也换上了一个雅称。伦敦政治经济学院(London School of Economics)的凯瑟琳哈金(Catherine Hakim)提出了“性感资本”(erotic capital)的概念。具备性感资本的人往往能够心想事成。性感资本雄厚的人似乎比毫无性感资本的人过得好。天生不具备多少性感资本的人,蹬上一双漂亮的高跟鞋,抹上口红,再穿一条得体的裙子,也能大大增加她们的性感资本。我猜你的同事可能很清楚这一点,她的“忠告”其实是抗议的咆哮:你的性感资本比她多。But that still doesnt mean that the dress is a good idea. Depending on the country and line of business you are in, the dress may be OK or not. Its all pretty arbitrary. We tolerate less flesh from the person who is doing our tax returns than from the person who is cutting our hair. Stupid, really; but thats the way it goes.但这不等于说你穿那条裙子很合适。合不合适,要看你所在的国家和你所处的行业。这没有统一的标准。我们能够容忍给我们理发的人衣着暴露,但不能容忍给我们办理报税手续的人衣着暴露。很愚蠢吧,但世道就是这样。Yet whatever your job, the rule of thumb is that sexy is almost always good but tacky is almost always bad. The only time you can get away with tacky is when you are being ironic, and offices and irony mix even less well than offices and bare flesh.不过,不管你从事什么工作,根据经验,性感几乎总是好的,而艳俗几乎总是不好的除非你是有意讽刺某人。而在办公室里嘲弄别人,还不如在办公室里衣着暴露。Your advice读者建议Its exhausting Men dont want to be confronted with expanses of bare flesh at work we dont know where to look or rather, we do, but we know we shouldnt, and its tiring having to force ones eyes not to stray below neck level. 过分暴露让人厌烦男人并不想在工作中面对衣着过于暴露的女性我们不知道该看哪儿更确切地说,我们知道看哪,但我们知道不应该看那,而强迫自己的视线不会游离到对方颈部以下也挺累人的。A couple of years ago, some young women in the office took to wearing tops that bared their midriffs. I suggested that, unless the dress code was more strictly enforced, I would feel obliged to bare my own mid-50s midriff. That soon put a stop to it. Manager, male 两年前,我们办公室里有些年轻女职员喜欢穿露跻装。我放出话说,要是大家不严格遵守着装规范,我将不得不露出我55岁中年男人的肚子了。这招很快见效,大家不再穿露脐装了。经理,男Copy top women 看女高管怎么穿 Ignore the advice of your peer and base your dress on the senior, high-flying women in your firm. If you work in a solicitors office, then it may mean a more conservative summer dress code. 别听你同事的,要学你们公司里那些风光的女高管是怎么穿的。如果你是在律师事务所工作,那么夏天可能要遵守一套比较保守的着装规范。不过,如果你是在时装界工作,就像我妻子一样,那么你可能穿得还不够暴露。根据可靠消息:“这个季节内衣是被当作外衣穿的。”However, if you work in fashion like my wife, then you may not be going far enough; I have it on good authority that “underwear is being worn as outerwear this season”. Male, headhunter, 30s 男,猎头,30岁以上Cover your cleavage 不要露出乳沟Yes dear, there is a dress code. Regardless of the fact that you can actually wear whatever you want to work, if you actually want to be respected/promoted/ sought out for your opinions, there is a dress code: other people shouldnt see your back or cleavage. 是的,亲爱的,确实有着装规范。尽管在办公室你实际上可以想穿什么就穿什么,但如果你确实想受到尊重、得到提拔,并且希望别人会征求你的意见,那么你就得遵守着装规范:你不应该让人看见你的背部或者乳沟。从你对那位同事身材的评价来看,你穿紧身裙显然就是为了引人注意这是居心全然不同的另一套着装规范。Given your comments about your colleagues figure, you are clearly wearing tight clothes to get attention, which is a dress code that serves an entirely different purpose. Lawyer, female, 33 律师,女,33岁Youre not at a bar又不是在酒吧Appropriate office attire should not reveal anything that men dont reveal, apart from a moderate amount of leg. 男人没有暴露的部位,女人也不应暴露除了适当露出一点大腿这才是得体的职场着装。这是办公室,不是酒吧。在大多数交易场所,大肆展示女性美既不合宜,也有损身份。This is an office, not a bar. The amount of female pulchritude on display on most trading floors is out of place and demeaning. Manager, female 经理,女Try a vest for size 试着穿上背心When it comes to keeping cool in this weather, please consider putting on socks, shoes, long trousers, a vest (to keep the sweat from soaking through) and a shirt. Then consider whether turning up practically naked is likely to increase resentment on the part of your male colleagues. A man说到在这种天气里保持清凉,请考虑穿上短袜、鞋子、长裤、背心(以防汗水渗出)和衬衫。然后想想如果你穿得跟没穿一样去上班,会不会让男同事们更加反感。 某男译者/杨远Pulchritude美丽; 悦目n.美丽, 标致 Great physical beauty and appeal.

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