纺织专业外文翻译.docx

英文文献 Precision knitwearDipl.lng.A Jurenak of Steiger gives an overview of the Swiss companys latest technical developments which are pushing back the frontiers of knitwear production. At the last ITMA exhibition in Paris, Steiger had on show a new four-head multi-compact flat knitting machine. That was presented to the knitting industry as offering a completely new development. The machine was the first multi-head model on the world market with features that gave increased reliability, enhanced productivity and made operation much more user-friendly.Separation of the front bed and back bed cam carriage by eliminating the usual cam carriage bow is amongst the most important new features of the machine. However, both cam carriage sections are driven in full synchronization. By eliminating the traditional bow of the cam carriage, which has been an inconvenient feature on more conventional machines, it is now possible to ensure a direct passage of the yarn above to the needles in the needle beds.Another new development is the fact, that the yarn carriers have no direct mechanical connection with the cam plates, each carrier being driven individually by its own motor. During knitting, as the two carriage-sections reciprocate across the carriage sections in a synchronized arrangement. The yarn carriers are controlled by special software and can be moved as required either in the direction of the cam carriage travel or in the opposite direction.These new automatic features mean that there is no need to consider programming the yarn carriers and the yarn feed when the machine operates with variable cam carriage traverses and that the best possible operating conditions will always result. This gives a substantial rise in productivity and an improved overall machine ratio.The motorization of the yarn carriers gives them their own individuality and makes it possible to adapt their movements in the highest degree to any given knitting process. The yarn carriers are automatically engaged or disengaged as required by the knitting programmer and adapt to the fabric selvedges with maximum precision. This also has particular relevance to the formation of fabric selvedges since the active yarn feeders are automatically nearest to the knitted panel, thus avoiding the formation of slack yarn loops along the selvedge.The knitting of intarsia patterns is carried out without the use of swing yarn carriers, since it is possible to re-align the yarn carriers away from a particular area even between the can systems. Since the arrival of the machine on the world market, steiger reports that the “multi” has shown itself as a highly productive automatic flat knitting machine, which in addition to everything else has a multiplicity of patterning facilities which have not previously been available-at least to the same extent, particularly with regard to intarsia patterns. Here steiger offers up to 24 individually motor driven yarn carriers.Following the success of the steiger “multi” it was quickly realized that not every knitting company needs the large production of which this machine is capable. This prompted the steiger company during 2001, to bring on the market a compact version of the “multi” with a single knitting head, namely the Aries 3.Aries 3Three-system machine Aries 3 uses the same technology as theses a three-system “multi” but instead of a twin-cam system carriage uses a three-system cam carriage. The 106cm long needle beds from the “multi” have been replaced by needle beds 130cm long. The Aries 3 model is thus particularly suitable for knitting small lots of exclusive high fashion knitwear.The steiger Aries 6 has been in full production since the beginning of this year. The machine is a double compact version of the Aries 3 machine, that is to say, a machine where, in a way, two Aries 3 models are linked together, although drive, share the yarn carriers and the electronic control.The machine frame is a self-supporting welded structure, produced in the tried and tested steiger tradition and very stable. The total length of the machine is 535cm and there are two separate knitting heads. Each of the two separate knitting heads. each of the two heads has a knitting width of 130cm and each has a three system cam carriage. Like the “multi” and the Aries 3, the Aries 6 has no conventional carriage bow so that front and rear cam plates are separate but are driven in synchronization, with the yarn being fed from above the knitting point in a straight line directly into the yarn carriers.Each of the knitting systems in the three system cam carriage is of identical design, each having two selection points and able to knit in the three way technique, I.e. knitting, tucking and non-knitting. When the stitch transfer unit is activated, loops can be transferred from the front bed needles to the back bed needles or vice versa either simultaneously or not. Without needing a re-alignment of the cam races the split-stitch technique can be used at any time in order to avoid a stitch transfer hole.Aries 6 capabilityThe Aries 6 machine has a standard equipment of either 12 or 24 motorized yarn carriers for each knitting head so that even very demanding high fashion and exclusive intarsia designs-either as single or double-face fabrics can be knitted or combined with structure patterns.The Aries 6 (like the Aries 3) has pneumatic yarn trapper and cutter units as standard components on the left and right-hand side of the needle beds. The well known steiger friction fabric take-down is positioned close to the knitting area of the machine (about 20mm), which ensures a straight and torsion-free fabric take-down.The new technologies, which steiger originally developed for the “multi” machine for the first time, are also included in the design of the Aries 3 and are original and further developed in the Aries 6 model having attracted many compliments by industry technical experts. It shows without doubt, that these developments were following a path in the right direction. this made it possible, by way of simple solutions, to obtain greater reliability, higher production and exclusiveness in the pattern scope.However, in modern fully electronic flat machines, simplicity, productivity and machine reliability is not the only feature that counts. Software for controlling the machine and pattern preparation equipment are of equal importance.Software for knittingSince introducing the Vesta range of machines to the market in 1993, steiger also introduced simultaneously a pioneering programming system, which runs on a compatible PC computer. The system known as “model” software works with symbols, where a symbol can represent either a simple stitch or a complicated knitting process(such as a face loop which has been transferred to the back bed and then returned to the front bed but on a neighboring needle).Thus it is possible to use symbols for a wide range of stitch combinations and store them in a library of stitch and patterns. The “model” software already contains a comprehensive library of a wide rang of pattern combinations which is continuously enlarged. By combining different symbols it is possible to produce a part repeat and after this a full pattern repeat. The presently popular pattern repeats too are also included already in the library and the rang can be extended in accordance with the aid of different design repeats, it is possible to show graphically on screen a complete knitted garment part. This also applies to the production of shapes.What is portrayed on screen is reproduced identically on the knitting machine. A rang of warning systems is available for the production process. This one is controlled by the computer, which shows up faults likely to occur during knitting. It is also possible to simulate stitches on a course for course basis thus making it possible to visualize the path of the yarn and the formation of loops and to analyze and understand in advance knitting on the machine.After the part to be knitted has been worked out on screen and is controlled by the computer, the type of machine used for the knitting process and the gauge are determined. This is followed by an automatic production of the design programmer. The software “model” allows the analysis of knitted parts and their shape for various automatic steiger knitting machines, even retrospectively for the Electra generation of machine, for the range of Vesta machines and of course for the state-of-the-art Aries range. The design programmer can be stored on diskettes which can be read directly into the machine or they can be fed directly “on-line” into the appropriate knitting machines.Designer partnershipsFor many years steiger has been working in close co-operation with the Prima Company. Together they have produced creative designer software which today is being distributed worldwide by Lectra. The prima vision software ,based upon the visually realistic pattern repeats ” knit Expert ” by Prima Vision, can now produce knitted fabrics in jacquard patterns based on fabrics structure and intarsia patterns. The article thus created can printed out as close to reality as possible since loop structures even in different gauges have a look of the design in depth. The following principal possibilities are available:1. Design stitch by stitch in actual gauge on a grid or in stitch effect. Sketched and scanned designs can easily be converted to stitches.2. Instant view of a knit design in another gauge or tension; tension changes are accurately represented on the design.3. Benefit from Knit Experts easy-to-use coloring features include creation of the whole color rang as knit visuals for the presentation to the customer. The professional color accuracy of primavision applies as well as automatic yarn color percentage to help with quick costing estimates.4. Stitches from the knit structure library based on real knitted fabric can be chosen to start building ones own knit design library. Using Knit Expert , technical feasibility is immediately verified on the screen; what works well on PrimaVision will work well on steiger knitting machines .5. An all-visual filling system allows easy organization & retrieval of designs.6. Generated graph prints automatically and instantly.7. Create knit design in stitches that can be draped onto a photographic image using PrimaVision-TCX 3D-like draping features to produce sample-free sales catalogues. Close co-operation between steiger and Lectra has made it possible to develop both software types ”model” and “Knit-Expert” on a parallel basis which allows full compatibility. This ensures the creation and production of knitwear on Steiger automatic knitting machines, starting with planning, drafting and design right up to sales. 中文翻译在上次巴黎的国际纺机展览会上，斯坦格就曾展示了一台新型4头多机头紧凑型横机。这为针织行业提供了一个全新的发展成果。在世界市场上，这台机器是第一台多头横机，而且在功能上，增加了可靠性，提高了生产效率，在实际生产中更方便用户使用。这种机器最重要的新的功能是：分离的前后针床机头取消了传统机头的弓形桥臂。然而，这两个分离的前后针床机头的驱动是完全同步的。通过消除传统的机头桥臂，可以确保直接从针床上方垫纱。另一项新发展也已经成功，即导纱器已经不直接与机头接触，每一个导纱器有自己专门的驱动机构。在编织过程中，随着两部分机头在针床上运行，导纱器与其同步运动，这些导纱器被专门的软件系统控制，根据要求，或与机头同向移动，或与其反向移动。这些新的自动功能就意味着在变化机头动程时，已经不必再考虑导纱器和喂纱的程序，而且有可能采用最好的运行条件和环境。这样可以提高生产效率，而且能够增加机器的稳定性。导纱器的驱动装置使他们拥有了主动性和可适应性，可以在特定的编织过程中高速运动。这些导纱器能够根据编织程序的要求自动的组合或分离，以满足织物边缘的最大精度要求。这也与织物边缘的形成有特殊的相关性，因为自动化的导纱器以最近的状态接近编织区域,这样能够避免在织物的边缘线圈的散乱问题。由于导纱器可以离开位于三角系统间的特定区域，就可以不必使用可以摇摆的嵌花导纱器进行嵌花花型的编织。自从这种机器在世界市场上问世以后，斯坦格就已经表明“多功能Multi”作为一种高生产率的自动化的电脑横机出现了。除其他优点外，至少在某种程度上，花样的多样性是以前的机器所没有的，尤其是在编织嵌花花型时。这里，斯坦格提供24个由各自驱动器独立驱动的导纱器。随着斯坦格“Multi”的成功，公司意识到，不是每一家针织公司都需要这种产量高的机器。所以，在2001年，根据市场的需求，斯坦格开发了单头的紧凑型机器，命名为“Aries 3”。Aries 3，三系统机器Aries 3使用的技术与“Multi”相同，只是三系统三角机头代替了两系统的三角机头， “Multi”的106cm长度的针床被130cm长的针床取代。Aries 3尤其适用于小批量的优质高档的时尚针织物的编织。斯坦格公司的Aries 6在今年初开始全面投入生产，这种机器在紧凑的多功能方面是Aries 3的两倍。这就是说，在某种形式上，一台Aries 6机器相当于两台Aries 3的机器连接在一起，两个三角机头公用一个驱动，共享导纱器和电子控制系统。这种机器的机架是一种自我支持焊接结构，在斯坦格传统的生产实践和检测中生产，非常稳固、牢靠。该机器总长度为535cm，有两个分离的编织机头。其中每一个机头都有130cm的编织宽度，且有两个三系统的三角机头。和Multi、 Aries 3一样，Aries 6没有传统的机头连接桥臂，因此前后三角系统是分离的，但同步驱动，同时，纱线在编织点的直线方向上直接通过导纱器喂入。三系统三角机头的每个编织系统是完全相同的设计，每个编织系统都有两个选择点，能够进行三位选针（成圈，集圈，浮线）编织，当移圈机构工作时，线圈就会被从前针床的织针上转移到后针床的织针上，或者相反，他们可以同时进行或不同时进行。无需重新设置三角运动轨迹，就可以在任何时候利用分针技术避免移圈时产生的孔洞。Aries 6的功能Aries 6机器的每一个编织机头有一个标准的12或24个可驱动的导纱器的装置。因此，无论是在单面还是双面织物中，都能编织要求较高的款式，优质的嵌花设计，还可以与结构花型组合。Aries 6（和Aries 3一样）拥有剪纱和夹纱组合装置，作为标准组件安装在针床的左右两边。斯坦格著名的摩擦式牵拉装置，被安装在靠近编织区域的地方（约20mm），能够确保对织物直接的，无扭转的牵拉。不管是斯坦格最早为“Multi”机器开发的新技术，还是在Aries 3和Aries 6上的进一步改进和发展，都引起了许多有名望的行业专家的关注。毫无疑问，它表明了这些发展的途径在方向上是正确的。这使它可以通过简单的解决方案，取得更高的可靠性，更高的生产能力和独特的花型范围。 然而，就现代的全电脑化的机器而言，简单性，高效率性和机器的可靠性已经不是唯一的要求。机器的控制软件和花型的准备系统也是