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.服装品质控制(QC)词汇APPROVED SWATCH 已批的布办 ART. NO./STYLE NO. 款号 AUTOLOCK ZIPPER 自动锁拉链 BACK STITCHES 回针/返针 BAD JOINED STITCHES 驳线不良 BROKEN HOLE 破洞 BROKEN STITCHES 断线 BROKEN YARN 断纱 BUBBLING 起泡 BUMP AT PLACKET EDGE 筒边钮门位不顺直 CENTER BACK RIDES UP 后幅起吊 CHECKS / STRIPES NOT MATCH 格仔/条子不对称 COLLAR POINTS HI / LOW 领尖高低 COLOR FADING 褪色 COLOR FASTNESS PROBLEM 褪色问题 COLOR FIBRE WOVEN IN 杂色纤维织入 COLOR SHADING 色差 COLOR THREAD LEFT INSIDE 藏色线 COLOR TOO DULL / BRIGHT 颜色太哑/闪 COLOR YARN 色纱 COMBI PROGRAM 配色组合 CONTRAST COLOR 撞色 CREASE MARK 摺痕 CROCKING TEST 摩擦测试 CROSSED BACK VENT 背叉搅 CUFF EDGE NOT LEVELED 鸡英边高低 DIRTY DOT (较小的)污点 DIRTY MARK 污渍 DIRTY SPOT (较大的)污点 DROP TEST 跌落测试 DRY RUB 干擦 EXCESS EXTENSION 突咀 FABRIC DEFECT 布疵 FABRIC TOO CLOSED TO ZIPPER 面布车得太贴近拉链 FLAP STRICKING UP 袋盖反翘 FLUO.=FLUORESCENCE 荧光 FLYING UP 飞起,翘起 FTY.STICKER 工厂的贴纸 GAPPING 藏木虱(烫工) GLAZE MARK (熨烫)起镜 HEM NOT LEVELED 高低脚 HI / LOW POCKET 高低袋 HIKING AT BOTTOM OF PLACKET 前筒吊脚 HIKING UP 起吊 HORIZONTAL SEAM NOT LEVELED 水平缝骨不对称 INNER CUFF VISIBLE 介英反光 IRON MARK 烫痕 KNOT 结头 LASTEST SIZE SPECIFICATION 最新的尺寸表 LINING TOO FULL / TIGHT 里布太多/太紧 MAJOR DEFECT 大疵 MATCH COLOR 配色 MATERIAL DEFECT 物料疵点 MINOR DEFECT 小疵 MIXED COLOR YARN 色纱 NECK DROP PUCKER 筒顶起皱 NEEDLE DAMAGE 针损坏布料 NEEDLE HOLE 针孔 OFF GRAIN 布纹歪 OIL STAIN 油渍 OPEN SEAM 爆口 OVERLAPPED COLLAR 叠领,踏领 OVERLAPPED LIPS 叠唇 OVERPRESS 熨烫过度 OVERWASH 洗水过度 PLACKET BOTTOM SPREAD OPEN 筒脚张开 PLACKET WAVY 前筒起蛇(皱) PLEATED SEWING 打褶 POCKET OPENING SPRAY OPEN 口袋“笑口” POOR BACK-STITCHES 回针不佳 POOR IRONING 烫工不良 PRESSING MARK 压痕 PREVIOUS SHIPMENT 以前走的货 PRODUCTION STATUS 生产情况 PUCKER 起皱 QC STICKER QC贴纸,“鸡纸” RAW EDGE 散口 RUN OFF STITCHES (车缝)落坑 PRINTING SCRIMP 印花裂痕 SEAM OVERTURN 止口反骨 SEWN IN WASTE 车缝时混有杂物 SHADING GARMENT TO GARMENT 衫与衫之间色差 SHADING WITHIN 1PCS GARMENT 衣服裁片色差 SHIPMENT UNDER CONSIGNMENT 寄卖 SHORT SHIPMENT 短装 SKIPPED STITCHES 跳线 SLANTING POCKET 歪袋 SLUB 毛粒 SMILING POCHET 袋“笑口” STICKER 贴纸 STITCHES NOT IN SEAM SHADOW 缝线没被盖住 STRIPES/CHECKS NOT MATCHING 不对条/格 SUB-CONTRACTOR 外发厂 SUBSTITUTE FABRIC 代用布 SUPPORT SITCHES VISIBLE 辅助线外露 FABRIC SWATCH 布办 TENSION 张力 THICK YARN 粗纱 TOPPEST PLACKET PUCKER 筒顶起皱 TOTAL DIFFERENT COLOR 颜色完全不同 TRAPPED COLOR THREAD 藏色线 TWIST 扭 TWIST LEG 扭髀 UNCUT THREAD ENDS 线头 UNDER STITCHES VISIBLE 底线露出 UNDERPLY TURN OUT 反光 UNDERPLY VISIBLE OUTSIDE 反光 UNDERPRESS 熨烫不够 UNDESIREABLE ODOR 臭味,不可接受的气味 UNEVEN COLLAR 歪领 UNEVEN COLOR 深浅色 UNEVEN LENGTH OF PLACKET 长短筒 UNEVEN LENGTH OF SLEEVE 长短袖 UNEVEN LIPS 大小唇 UNEVEN STITCHING DENSITY 针步密度不均匀 UNMATCHED CROTCH CROSS 下裆十字骨错位 UNMEET BACK VENT 背叉豁 WET RUB 湿擦 WRONG COMBO 颜色组合错误 WRONG PATTERN 图案错误 WRONG SIZE INDICATED 错码 YARN DRAWN OUT 抽纱 ZIPPER NOT MOVABLE 拉链不能拉度尺部位BUST WIDTH 胸阔FRONT CROSS 前胸阔BACK CROSS 后胸阔WAIST WIDTH 腰阔BOTTOM 脚阔SHOULDER ACROSS 肩阔SMALL SHOULDER 小肩长C/B LENGTH 后中长SLEEVE LENGTH 袖长SLEEVE OPENING 袖口阔CUFF WIDTH 介英宽ARMHOLE(CURVE/STRAIGHT) 夹圈(弯度/直度)NECK WIDTH 颈阔SLEEVE CROWN HEIGHT 袖山高UPPER ARM WIDTH 袖脾阔COLLAR LENGTH 领长FRONT NECK DROP 前领深UPPER COLLAR HEIGHT 上级领高COLLAR BAND HEIGHT 下级领高COLLAR POINT 领尖长COLLAR POINT SPREAD 领尖距PLACKET WIDTH 前筒宽POCKET HIGH POINT 袋尖高(袋最长的高度)WAIST(RELAX) 腰围(松度)WAIST(STRETCHED) 腰围(拉度)HIP 坐围HIGH HIP 上坐围THIGH(UNDER CROTCH) 脾围LEG OPENING 裤脚围FRONT RISE 前浪BACK RISE 后浪INSEAM LENGTH 内长OUTSEAM LENGTH 外长WAISTBAND 裤头高KNEE 膝围SWEEP(HALF) 裙阔(裙底半度)FLY WIDTH 钮牌阔FLY LENGTH 钮牌长BELTLOOP 裤耳验货用语资料成品检验Checking of finished products检验,检查inspection, check商检commodity inspection领面松wrinkles at top collar领面紧top collar appears tight领面起泡crumples at top collar领外口松collar edge appears loose领外口紧collar edge appears tight底领伸出collar band is longer than collar底领缩进collar band is shorter than collar底领里起皱wrinkles at collar band facing底领外露collar band lean out of collar倘领偏斜collar deviates from front center line领窝不平creases below neckline后领窝起涌bunches below back neckline驳头起皱wrinkles at top lapel驳头反翘top lapel appears tight 驳头外口松lapel edge appears loose驳头外口紧lapel edge appears tight驳口不直lapel roll line is uneven串口不直gorge line is uneven领卡脖tight neckline领离脖collar stand away from neck小肩起皱puckers at shoulders塌肩wrinkles at shoulder袖隆起皱creases at underarm袖隆缝起皱puckers at underarm seam塌胸lack of fullness at chest省尖起泡crumples at dart point拉链起皱wrinkles at zip fly止口不直front edge is uneven止口缩角front edge is out of square止口反翘front edge is upturned止口反吐facing leans out of front edge止口豁split at front edge止口下部搭叠过多crossing at front edge底边起皱wrinkles at hem后身起吊back of coat rides up背衩豁开split at back vent背衩搭叠过多crossing at back vent绗棉起皱puckers at quilting絮棉不均padded cotton is uneven边缘缺棉empty hem绱袖不圆顺diagonal wrinkles at sleeve cap袖子偏前sleeve leans to front袖子偏后sleeve leans to back前袖缝外翻inseam leans to front袖口起皱wrinkles at sleeve opening袖里拧diagonal wrinkles at sleeve lining袋盖反翘top flap appears tight袋盖反吐flap lining leans out of edge袋盖不直flap edge is uneven袋口角起皱creases on two ends of pocket mouth 袋口裂split at pocket mouth腰头探出end of waistband is uneven腰缝起皱wrinkles at waistband facing里襟里起皱creases at right fly夹裆tight crotch短裆short seat后裆下垂slack seat前浪不平wrinkles at front rise裆缝断线bursting of crotch seam裤脚前后two legs are uneven脚口不齐leg opening is uneven吊脚pulling at outseam or inseam烫迹线外撇crease line leans to outside烫迹线内撇crease line leans to inside腰缝下口涌bunches below waistline seam裙裥豁开 split at lower part of skirt裙身吊split hem line rides up裙浪不匀skirt flare is uneven 线路偏移stitch seam leans out line双轨接线 stitch seam is uneven跳针 skipping尺码不符 off size缝制不良stitching quality is not good洗水不良washing quality is not good熨烫不良pressing quality is not good极光iron-shine水渍water stain锈迹rust污渍spot色差color shade, off shade, color deviation褪色fading, fugitive color线头thread residue毛头raw edge leans out of seam绣花不良embroidery design out line is uncovered织疵的英文表达梭织 wovenballing up 起球 lint ball起球 pilling 起球 ballooning 布面小圈 flaw 织疵、疵点 flying threads 布面拖纱 float loop蛛网 entering draft 蛛网 excessive lift 多起 bore 破洞 duck eye 小洞(针织疵点) holes 破洞、破孔 cut across 开匹(疵布) curling selvedge 卷边 rolled selvedge卷边 baggy selvedge 松边 loose edge/ selvedge松边 tight list/selvedge 紧边 dog-legged selvedge 弯曲布边(由纬纱退绕张力引起) cut listing/ selvedge 破边 broken selvedge 破边 ripped selvedge 破边 torn selvedge 破边 edge end break 坏边 pilled-in selvedge 缩边 uneven selvedge 宽窄不匀布边 rough selvedge 毛边 hang pick 三角形破洞 narrow width 布幅不足 uneven cover 布面不匀 rowdy布面不匀 wavy face 波浪形布面 thick and thin places 厚薄段 thick filling 粗经 thread out 断经 tight end/thread紧经、急经 tight filling/pick 紧纬、急经 ridgy cloth 起伏不平的布 slack selvedge 起伏不平的布边 selvedge float 布边浮经丝 silkGum knots 胶着类(生丝疵点) Gummed books 丝把发硬 Gummed skeins 丝胶发硬 Double flat 双经/纬(生丝疵点) Double skeins 双片丝(生丝疵点) break-mark 灰点(绸缎疵点) broken course 断纬(丝) Cut ends 切丝 Corkscrews 螺旋类(生丝疵点) Corkscrew twist 螺旋疵(捻丝疵点) Corkscrews yarn 螺旋线(并线疵点) Hairiness 毛羽类 Heavy end 粗经 Heavy filling/pick 粗纬 Improper making of book 打把不正 Improper skein lacking 扣丝失当 Improper skein twisting 打绞不正 Irregular pick 纬疵 Irregular pile bar 长短绒档 Irregular skeins 丝绞不正 Irregular traverse 络交不正 Irregular twist streak 松紧捻档 Knots 长结 Knub 缫丝下脚,小糙疵 Loops 环结 Marriages 双丝 Nap 绒毛、拉绒 Pin hole 针洞 Raised threads 浮丝其它frosting 霜白疵、起霜花(印染引起) blur 剪毛不良 barring 条痕、条花 bare cloth 稀布 Broken figures 错花 Crack 稀弄 Cracked ends 筘痕 Defective lift 夹起 Darts and steels 刀线 Decating mark 布头纬向皱横 Duvet 小环结 Fag 粗粒 Facing 拖浆、罩色(印花疵点) Felter 跳花、跳纱 harness skip跳花、跳纱 Gout 飞花织入 Loom fly飞花织入 Hard size 浆斑 Joining stencil mark 搭头印(手工印花疵点) Keel 红印色 Marking off 搭色 Mildew 霉、生霉 Minor defects 普通瑕疵、中类 Major defects次要瑕疵、大类 Super major defects 主要瑕疵、特大类 Mispick 错纬 Weaving under 花纹少织(多梭箱织机的换纬运动不良造成) Starch lump 浆斑 Start-up marks 开车痕 Stripy defects 条花疵点 Reed mark 筘痕 Shuttle mark 局部纹路不明(主要由于开口运动或投梭失常所致) Snap/snappers 拖浆 Stain warp 渍经 Staining 斑点染色、染斑1. 纱Yarna) 纱节Slubsb) 横档Barrec) 粗细纱Uneven Yarn (thick & thin)d) 飞纱Yarn Contamination(foreign substance)e) 僵棉Dead Cotton 2. 结构Constructiona) 漏纱Missing Lineb) 洞Holesc) 筘痕Reed Markd) 直横条Streakse) 停车横条Stop Markf) 结Knotsg) 错织Miss-weave / Mis knit pattern3. 染色a) 色差Shading ( Color variation within width and length)b) 色点Dye Spots / Dye Streaksc) 色花Color Tone4. Finishinga) 手感 Hand / feelb) 经纬斜 Bowingc) 歪斜 Skewingd) 皱褶 Wrinkles / Fold Marks / Creasese) 针眼 Pin Holesf) 摺痕 Stop Marksg) 门幅 Uneven Widthh) 起球 Pilling5. Cleanlinessa) 污渍 Stainsb) 油渍 Oil / Grease Spotsc) 脏污 Dirt / Soild) 水痕 Water MarksQC评语The out-come / appearance of the frills of sealing sample is not ccceptable, it looks very flat / dead, must be more balanced / natural look as standard sample DD 28.8.02.前中荷叶边太死太平,不够生动,请以2002年8月28日的办做标准。Sort out the major material defects.挑出严重布疵。Take care for trimming + cleaning.留意剪线和清洁。Stringholes from plastic string ( for washing ) at pocket flap visible, must be removed.袋盖上有洗水时打的枪针洞,请消除。Front horizontal seam not leveled.前幅横骨不对称。Handfeel slightly softer than approved sample.手感比批办稍软。Armhole pipping ( inside) 2mm more than sealing sample.夹圈滚条宽度比原办大了2mm。Pls. add one more button for bigger sizes.请在大码的衣服上加多一颗钮扣。Make sure inner facing is long enough in order to avoid pulling at placket bottom.确保襟贴足够长以避免前襟起吊。Pay attn. the workmanship of ironing, dont press the seam too much and avoid the seam allowance see through by heavy pressing.注意烫工,骨位不要烫太重,避免缝骨止口起痕。Center front collar not overlap but also not spray.领子前中不要重叠但也不要张开。Bust dart seam allowance must be ironed upward.胸摺止口要烫向上面。Uneven width of top-stitches at closure edge.前襟边面线宽度不均匀。Pls. add one more button for all sizes as the distance from hem is too big.请在所有尺码的衣服上加多一颗钮扣,因为离衫脚的距离太大。Pls. fix pocket with movable stitches as sealing sample.请跟原办在口袋上车上(可拆去的)假缝线。The collar band must not visible at back when wear.衣服穿着时下级领不能外露。Pls. make sure the collar are balanced on both sides.请确保领子两边对称。Found 3 colors shade within 10 pcs!十件衣服中有三种色差!3 different color lots in color beige compare to the approved swatch: 3/10 pcs darker, 4/10 pcs lighter, 3/10 as swatch.Beige色和色办相比有3种不同色差,其中3件偏深,4件偏浅,3件同色办。Pay attention on the color, which within one garment must be in same color shade.注意颜色,一件衣服里不能有色差。Due to the price reason, we accept this order with cutting both ways either in direction or against hair but you have to make sure the fabric direction must be always same with one garment.因为价钱问题,我们接受这个订单的可以顺毛裁和逆毛裁,但一定要确保一件衣服内的所有裁片是同一毛向。(灯心绒衣服)Pls. cut all jackets against hair.所有夹克要逆毛裁。Pls. close the pocket with several movable stitches ( must be not closed all, pls. leave 1cm at each side unstitching).请用在口袋上缝一段可拆除的假线(一定不能全部缝合,两边要各留1cm不缝合)常用包装物料和车缝物料注意卡: Attention Card铁扣: Buckle胶蝴蝶,胶托: Plastic Butterfly 钮模: Button Mould内箱: Boxes外箱: Carton 内箱: Inner Carton / inner boxes内插筒: Division Pad箱贴纸: Carton Tag胶夹: Plastic Clips胶领圈: Plastic Collar Support纸领条: Paper Collar Stripe插竹: Collar Stay棉绳: Drawstring细橡筋: Elastic Band 绣花章: Embroidery Patch平橡根: Cum Tape人字带: Herringbone Tape胶衣架: Plastic Hangers 挂卡: Hang Tag丝带,花边: Lace内盒贴纸: Box end Label成份唛: Content Label皮牌: Leather Disc旗唛: Exterior Label旗唛,皮士唛: Flag Label主唛: Main Label成份洗水西士唛:Content/WC/SZ Label 领唛: Neck Label产地唛: Country of Origin Label 袋唛旗唛: Pocket/Placket Label西士唛: Size Label洗水唛: Wash Care Label 担干唛: Yoke Label叉字铁夹: Metal Clip 魔术贴: Magic Sticker尼龙捆条: Nylon Loop 尼龙绳: Nylon String纸腰带: Paper Belt 针: Pins牛皮纸: Cowhide Pager 纸牌: Paper Tag 价钱牌: Price Ticket (OCR)丝带: Ribbon 方型胶夹: Rectangle Clip铆钉: Rivet胶袋贴纸: Polybag Sticker外箱贴纸: Carton Sticker 杂物: Sundries扣针: Safety Pins 扁带: Shoulder Tape内盒纸箱: Inner Box Sticker 挂卡贴纸: Hang tag Sticker胶领条: Plastic Shirt Band 纸领条: Paper Shirt Band纸板: Shirt Board 西士贴纸: Size Sticker胶贴纸: Plastic Sticker胶: Glee缎带: Silicon Wappes转移印花: Heat Transfer枪针: Tag Tin 斜纹带: Twill Tape腰牌: Waist Tag胶夹 : Plastic Clip胶袋 : Plastic bag / polybag衬纸 : Tissue Paper领蝴蝶 : Collar Butterflies领胶条 : Collar Stripe纸箱 : Paper Carton贴纸 : Sticker辅料ACCESSORY 辅料BELT 腰带BINDING TAPE 捆条(包边)BOW 蝴蝶BOW-TIE 蝴蝶结BUCKLE LOOP 钮圈BUTTON 钮扣CARE LABEL 洗水唛COLLAR RAB 领袢COLLAR STAY 领插竹CONCEAL ZIPPER 隐形拉链CONTENT LABEL 成分唛CONTRAST COLOR STITCHES 撞色线COTTON STRING 棉绳ELASTIC 橡筋EPAULET 肩章EYELET 鸡眼EYES & HOOKS 乌蝇扣, 钩棒扣FRILLS 荷叶边FUSIBLE-INTERLINING 粘朴GODET 三角形布GUSSET 三角形插布HALF MOON PATCH 半月形龟背HANGING LOOP 吊袢INTERLINING 衬, 朴LACE 花边LINING 里布MAIN LABEL / BRAND LABEL 主唛NON-FUSIBLE-INTERLINING 非粘朴, 生朴PLASTIC STRING 胶针RIB 罗纹RIVET 撞钉, 包头钉RUBBER STRING 橡筋SHANK (钮扣)绕脚线SHOULDER PAD 肩棉, 肩垫SIZE LABEL 尺码唛SMOCKING (装饰用的)缩褶SNAP 急钮, 按钮, 揿钮STICKER 贴纸STRIPE 带条, 绳子THREAD 线TRIANGLE GUSSET 三角脚贴VELCRO 魔术贴ZIPPER 拉链ZIPPER PULLER 拉链拉手 ZIPPER STOPPER,分为“TOP STOP”和“BOTTOM STOP”,“TOP STOP”中文叫“前码,上止”,“BOTTOM STOP”中文叫“后码,下止”。.服装专业名词国粤英语对照粤语 国语 ENGLISH及骨锁边OVERLOCK纳膊缝合小肩JOIN THE SMALL SHOULDER埋夹缝合袖底骨和侧缝JOIN THE UNDER ARM SEAM AND SIDE SEAM夹圈袖窿ARMHOLE担干过肩YOKE介英,鸡英袖口,袖级CUFF侧骨 侧缝摆缝SIDE SEAM纳膊位 肩缝SHOULDER SEAM前浪前档FRONT RISE后浪后档BACK RISE坐围臀围HIP脾围横档THIGH耳仔裤带袢BELTLOOP钮门扣眼BUTTON HOLE钮牌FLYFLY布封幅宽 FABRIC WIDTH朴衬布INTERLINING急钮四合扣SNAP FASTENER膊头棉肩棉 肩垫,垫肩SHOULDER PAD魔术贴尼龙搭扣VELCRO挂卡吊牌HANGTAG平车平缝机NORMAL SEWING MACHINE拉冚车绷缝机COVERING STITCH MACHINE及骨车 包缝机锁边机OVERLOCK MACHINE拉筒车门襟机PLACKET MACHINE挑脚车暗缝机BLIND STITCHING MACHINE辘脚车脚口卷边机BOTTOM HEMMING MACHINE啤机 冲压裁剪机DIE CUTTING MACHINE唛架排料图MAKER排唛排料LAYOUT车花绣花EMBROIDERY拉裤头上裤头WAISTBANDING打枣打结BARTACK钮子钮门搭位BUTTON STAND插竹领插角片COLLAR STAY唛头商标LABEL乌蝇扣钩棒扣EYES & HOOKS纵纹斜纹BIOS CUT返针回针BACK STITCH间棉绗缝QUILT针步线步STITCHES止口子口 缝头SEAM ALLOWANCE办样板SAMPLE梭仔梭芯BOBBIN狗牙车牙FEED DOG靴压脚PRESSER FOOT蝴蝶车缝附件SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENTS烫斗熨斗IRON常见的洗水方法1、普洗(GARMENT WASH)普洗即普通洗涤,只不过将我们平日所熟悉的洗涤改为机械化而已,其水温在60-90C 左右,加一定的洗涤剂,经过15分钟的左右普通洗涤后,过清水加柔软剂即可,使织物更柔软、舒适,在视觉上更自然更干净。通常根据洗涤时间的长短和化学药品的用量多少,普洗又可以分为轻普洗、普洗、重普洗。通常轻普洗为5分钟左右,普洗为15分钟左右,重普洗为30分钟左右,(这个时间是不精确),这三种洗法没有明显的界限。2、石洗 / 石磨(STONE WASH)石洗即在洗水中加入一定大小的浮石,使浮石与衣服打磨,打磨缸内的水位以衣物完全浸透的低水位进行,以使得浮石能很好地与衣物接触。在石磨前可进行普洗或漂洗,也可在石磨后进行漂洗。根据客户的不同要求,可以采用黄石、白石、AAA石、人造石、胶球等进行洗涤,以达到不同的洗水效果,洗后布面呈现灰蒙、陈旧的感觉,衣物有轻微至重度破损。3、酵素洗(ENZYME WASH)酵素是一种纤维素酶,它可以在一定PH值和温度下,对纤维结构产生降解作用,使布面可以较温和地褪色,褪毛(产生“桃皮”效果),并得到持久的柔软效果。可以石头并用或代替石头,若与石头并用,通常称为酵素石洗(ENZYME STONE WASH)。4、砂洗(SAND WASH)砂洗多用一些碱性,氧化性助剂,使衣物洗后有一定褪色效果及陈旧感,若配以石磨,洗后布料表面会产生一层柔和霜白的绒毛,再加入一些柔软剂,可使洗后织物松软、柔和,从而提高穿着的舒适性。(1)砂洗用剂a) 膨化剂: 根据纤维的类别,织物的组织结构和紧密程度而选定膨化剂和浓度,温度、时间等膨化条件,纯棉衣物砂洗时可以采用碱性膨化剂如纯碱来加以膨化处理。b) 砂洗剂: 衣物经膨化后,纤维疏松,再籍助于特殊的砂洗进行摩擦,使疏松的表面纤维产生丰满柔和的茸毛,欲使绒面丰满,必须选用不同形态,不同硬度的砂粉,如可选用菱形砂(使松散的纤维产生绒毛),多角形砂(使绒挺立),圆形砂(使绒毛丰满)。c) 柔软剂: 用于砂洗的柔软剂。要求达到柔软带糯性,使织物能增重,悬垂性要明显改善。因此这类柔软剂碳链要长,且具有阳离子性,能在织物上吸附,达到增重的目的。(2)砂洗设备目前一般采用于工业洗水机进行膨化,砂洗和柔软处理,用离心泵脱水机脱水,干烘采用针织厂烘干鹅绒的转筒烘干机。(3)砂洗工艺棉布衣物可根据组织结构,经纬密度和纱支的粗细、捻度的强弱来决定膨化剂的类别、用量、温度和时间、以及砂洗粉、柔软剂的用量和处理温度、时间,一般来说,选择纱织物砂洗效果优于线织物,粗支纱优于高支纱,低捻度优于高捻度,浮点长的优于浮点短的产品。5、化学洗(CHEMICAL WASH)化学洗主要是通过使用强碱助剂(NaOH,NaSiO3等)来达到褪色的目的,洗后衣物有较为明显的陈旧感,再加入柔软剂,衣物会有柔软、丰满的效果。如果在化学洗中加入石头,则称为化石洗(CHEMICAL STONE WASH),可以增强褪色及磨损效果,从而使衣物有较强的残旧感,化石洗集化学洗及石洗效果集于一身,洗后可以达到一种仿旧和起毛的效果。6、漂洗(BLEACH WASH)为使衣物有洁白或鲜艳的外观和柔软的手感,需对衣物进行漂洗,即在普通洗涤过清水后,加温到60C,根据漂白颜色的深浅,加适量的漂白剂 (bleaching agent),7-10 分钟时间内使颜色对板一致。操作时,加漂剂的方向应与转缸的转向一致,以免漂白剂因不能尽快的与水稀释而直接落在衣物上,出现局部漂白。漂白前,缸内水位要稍高,以便漂水稀释。衣物漂白对板后,即以大(小)苏打( Na2CO3, NaHCO3)对水中的残余漂白水进行中和,使漂白完全停止。待过清水后,在50C水温中加洗涤剂,荧光增白剂,双氧水等作最后的洗涤,中和PH值,荧光增白等,最后进行柔软处理即可。漂洗可分为氧漂和氯漂。氧漂是利用双氧水在一定PH值及温度下的氧化作用来破坏染料结构,从而达到褪色,增白的目的,一般漂布面会略微泛红。氯漂是利用次氯酸钠的氧化作用来破坏染料结构,从而达到褪色的目的。氯漂的褪色效果粗犷,多用于靛兰牛仔布的漂洗。漂白对板后,应以海波对水中及衣物残余氯进行中和,使漂白停止,漂白后再进行石磨,则称为石漂洗(BLEACH STONE WASH)。7、破坏洗(DESTROY WASH)成衣经过浮石打磨及助剂处理后,在某些部位(骨位、领角等)产生一定程度的破损,洗后衣物会有较为明显的残旧效果。8、雪花洗(SNOW WASH)把干燥的浮石用高锰酸钾溶液浸透,然后在专用转缸内直接与衣物打磨,通过浮石打磨在衣物上,使高锰酸钾把摩擦点氧化掉, 使布面呈不规则褪色,形成类似雪花的白点。雪花洗的一般工艺过程如下:浮石浸泡高锰酸钾浮石与衣物干磨雪花效果对板取出衣物在洗水缸内用清水洗掉衣物上的石尘草酸中和水洗上柔软剂。9、猫须(MOUSTACHE EFFECT)就是WHISKER,不过WHISKER的说法专业一些。猫须就是手砂(手擦,HAND BRUSH)的一种,它只不过磨成猫须的形状而已。10、喷沙又叫打沙(SPRAY STONE WASH / SAND BLAST)。是用专用设备(形象点讲就是一种电动的大型牙刷,只不过是滚筒型的)在布料上打磨,通常有一个充气模型配合。11、喷马骝(MONKEY WASH)和喷沙本质的区别就是前者为化学作用,后者则为物理作用。喷马骝就是用喷枪把高锰酸钾溶液按设计要求喷到服装上,发生化学反应使布料退色。用高锰酸钾的浓度和喷射量来控制退色的程度。从效果上分的话,喷马骝退色均匀,表层里层都有退色,而且可以
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