服装服饰术语：常见正规晚礼服(Black-Tie)

服装服饰术语：常见正规晚礼服（Black Tie) 服饰术语：常见正规晚礼服（Black Tie）北美的宴会或舞会，请贴上一般都会注明着装要求（Dress Code），分以下几种情况： 一，White Tie或者说是Ultraformal ：这是最最正式的场合，什么授勋仪式、宫廷晚宴之类的，我们平常百姓大概一辈子也碰不上一次。男士要穿燕尾服（tailcoat），配套的是白色马甲，白色衬衫，白色领结。裤子两侧有两道笔直的竖条。裤子不用皮带用吊带。 女士要穿大裙摆的长晚礼服。 二，Black Tie或者说是Formal ：这是最常见的正规着装要求，男士要穿晚礼服（Tuxedo），前襟领子是黑缎面的，配白衬衫，黑领结，黑腰带，黑袜子，黑鞋。裤子两侧夹缝有和领子同面料的黑缎夹条。如果一年赶上那么一次半次的，可以去租全套设备回来用，省心省力。 女士穿晚礼服（Evening gown），低胸露肩的那种，相配的小包和鞋子。项链、耳环等首饰的真假无所谓，但是要闪亮，戴手镯而不是手表。 妆要浓一些，俺看到许多知识分子同胞在宴会场所化淡妆或者根本不化妆，那脸在灯光下惨淡的没法看，而且不化妆是十分失礼的一件事，比穿了不合适服装还要让人不舒服。 中国女士可用面料好的剪裁得体的旗袍或改良旗袍代替晚礼服，穿旗袍时，头发挽起来配上头饰效果会比清汤挂面好很多。 三，Black Tie Optional 或者是Creative Black Tie， 男士可以穿Tuxedo或正式的深色圆摆西装，可以不打领结换成打领带，衬衫最好是白色的， 女士可以是晚礼服、不拖地的四分之三长礼服或者是考究的晚宴两件套（dressy separates），配备参考Formal。 四，Semi-formal 男士：深色西服 女士：短礼服、考究的套装 五，Cocktail 鸡尾酒会一般在下午4点到7点举行，属于半正式着装，（Semi-formal）男士穿深色西装，女士穿短裙或套装，长度和白天服装相同，但用料要讲究，天鹅绒、丝绸缎子之类的，颜色要比白天的服装明亮，华贵，配上闪亮的首饰，可搭配围巾。要穿高跟鞋。 妆比白天要浓。 六，Dressy Casual 男士：比较讲究一点的便装，像西装上衣配休闲裤，衬衣休闲西裤等。 女士：连衣裙，漂亮上衣配裤子，毛衣配裙子等可以自由发挥。 七，Business Casual 比Dressy Casual 再随便一些，但是不能穿牛仔裤。 八，Casual 或Informal 这种说法意味着可以随便穿，但是短裤、凉鞋还是要避免，当然你也不要西装革履的。 有时越随便的穿着，越能看出人的品味，不能掉以轻心。女士穿一件质地普通的连衣裙肯定比穿牛仔裤雅致。化淡妆。 总的原则，你比别人穿的相对正式一点比穿的随便要好。 Black tie, known in the United Kingdom (and also in the north-eastern United States, and Canada) as a dinner jacket and in the United States generally as a tuxedo, is a dress code for formal evening events that are not formal enough to require white tie. Black tie is today worn at a wide variety of functions, and the corresponding female attire can range from a short cocktail dress to a long gown, depending on fashion, local custom and the hour at which the function takes place.HistoryThe American name tuxedo is taken from Tuxedo Park, New York, a private club of country houses founded by Pierre Lorillard, the tobacco heir. (The town of Tuxedo and Tuxedo Park themselves were named by the Lenni-Lenape Indians, who called the largest lake in the area tucseto, meaning either place of the bear or clear flowing water.) Traditionally, the first Autumn Ball, held at the Tuxedo Club in October 1886, marked the official first American appearance of the English dinner jacket, which was favored by the fast sporting crowd round the Prince of Wales, who liked to wear a Cowes jacket, somewhat like a formal mess jacket, first at dinner aboard his yacht during the regattas held at Cowes, and then later at other evening entertainments, though never in London. The original single- breasted model was simply a tailcoat without a tail, worn with a white piqu?vest as would be worn with a tailcoat, then later with a black vest ensuite with the jacket and trousers.At the 1886 Tuxedo Park Autumn Ball, Pierre Lorillards young son Griswold Lorillard and his friends startled guests, all in white tie and tailcoats, by wearing the new English dinner jackets, with scarlet evening vests. The tailless coats were similar in cut to hunting pinks worn in daytime at foxhunting meets. When after 1889, gentlemen in tuxedos were even admitted to the Dress Circle at the new Metropolitan Opera, the success of the new fashion was made.A Tuxedo Park insider recalls a different story of the Tuxedo Park introduction of black tie, told him in the 1920s by Grenville Kane, the last founding member of the Tuxedo Club. Kane remembered that it had been James Brown Potter who, after staying with the Prince of Wales at Sandringham in the summer of 1886, brought back the new fashion to Tuxedo and introduced it to the members of the clubThe American upper classes now generally prefer the terms black tie or dinner jacket to tuxedo, which is considered slightly vulgar.Early evening clothes were uniformly black. The Duke of Windsor, when Prince of Wales, introduced midnight blue as an appropriate color, and even made the double-breasted dinner jacket acceptable.The waist sash called cummerbund (or cumberbund) was borrowed after World War I, from military dress in British India.What it isIn the days when evening dress was worn every evening, black tie developed as a form of evening dress of which the components did not require costly frequent laundering and starching, unlike white tie.Black tie leaves a lot to the wearers discretion compared to the far more codified white tie (e.g. single- versus double-breasted coat). Nonetheless, so far as a convention exists, it is that black tie properly consists of:Black short coat with silk (ribbed or satin) lapels (peaked or shawl-collared), usually without vents. As an alternate to the above, a white dinner jacket, suitable for warm climates, or from mid-April through Labor Day (United States and Canada) Black trousers with a row of braid or ribbon down each leg White shirt Black silk bow tie Black low-cut waistcoat (called a vest in Canada and the US), or a cummerbund Black socks Black shoes Other StylesColoured bow ties, waistcoats and cummerbunds are widespread at parties, but not appropriate at more formal occasions. On the other hand, wearing a white bow tie with a dinner jacket is considered a grave solecism (though the first dinner jackets were worn with white ties). Coloured or patterned dinner jackets are sometimes seen but are not appropriate at formal occasions. In the United States, the wearing of a collarless shirt without a bow tie, closed with a stud or banded, has become fashionable, but would again not be seen e.g. a state dinner. Cufflinks and shirts studs can be black, white, silver, or gold, and a white handkerchief and flower may be worn. In recent years it has become acceptable to wear state decorations with black tie at state events. In such cases only one neck ribbon and one breast star are worn, with miniature medals.In the United Kingdom, it is felt in some circles that wing collars are properly the preserve of white tie, and that a shirt with a soft turn-down collar should be worn with black tie. However, in its earliest form black tie was always worn with a stiff white shirt and stiff wing collar. White waistcoats, such as those worn with white tie, remain an acceptable alternative to black.Black tie, having originated as an informal dress code for e.g. dining at home, has no single accepted form of headgear. Generally a soft black felt hat such as a homburg may be worn together with an overcoat.Corresponding forms of dressMess dressIn the armed forces, officers normally wear mess uniforms which correspond to evening dress or black tie. These vary according to the regiment or corps, but usually involve a short Eton style jacket that comes to the waist. Some forms include white shirts and black bow ties, while others have high mandarin collars that fasten around the neck. They are usually brightly coloured and ornamented with gold lace and buttons, corresponding to the regiment or corps.In the Royal Navy there is a distinction between mess dress, which is worn at white tie events, and mess undress, which is worn at black tie events. Both are worn with a black bow tie, however mess dress is worn with a white waistcoat instead of the usual blue.Scottish dressScottish dress is often worn at black tie events, especially at Scottish reels and ceilidhs. While there is a more formal version which may be worn when the dress code is white tie, the black tie version is much more common, even at white tie events.The traditional black tie version of Highland dress consists of:Black Prince Charlie jacket Black waistcoat Kilt White shirt Black bow tie Black Ghillie brogues White kilt hose Flashes Other colours for both the Prince Charlie jacket, and the hose are seen.The Lowland version of black tie is a variation on normal black tie, with trews worn with a normal dinner jacket or Prince Charlie jacket. Trews are also often wo