针织学(双语)课件Chapter4.ppt

1,Chapter4,Thefourprimarybaseweftknittedstructures,2,4.1Introduction引言,Fourprimarystructures,Plain纬平针Rib罗纹Interlock双罗纹,棉毛Purl双反面,3,4.1Introduction引言,Fourmachines,Single-jerseymachines单面机Ribmachines罗纹机Interlockmachines双罗纹机,棉毛机Purlmachines双反面机,4,4.2Plainstructure纬平针组织,Introduction,Hosiery长袜Fullyfashionedknitwear全成形针织品Single-jerseyfabrics单面针织物,Usedinthefollowproducts,5,Introduction,Technicalface,SmoothHavingtheappearanceofcolumnsofVsinwales.,6,Introduction,Technicalback,Havingtheappearanceofcolumnsofinterlockingsemi-circles.,7,Introduction,Theproperties,Unrove横向脱散Laddering纵向脱散,8,Introduction,Theproperties,curl/卷边stretching/拉伸,9,Introduction,Theproperties,3-dimensionalstructure,10,4.2.1Productionofsingle-jerseyfabric/单面针织物onacircularlatchneedlemachine/舌针圆机,Cone纱筒Overheadbobbinstand机顶纱架Free-standingcreel落地纱架Winding-downmechanism牵拉卷取机构,11,Comparedwiththeribmachine,SimplerandmoreeconomicalMorefeedersHigherrunningspeedsKnittingawiderrangeofyarncounts,12,4.2.1.1Theknittinghead编织机构,Yarnfeederguide/导纱器Latchneedle/舌针Holding-downsinker/握持沉降片Needlecylinder/针筒Cylinderdrivingwheel/针筒托盘Cylinderdrivinggear/针筒传动齿轮Sinker-operatingcams/沉降片三角Sinkercam-cap/沉降片三角座,13,9.Sinkertrickring/沉降片圆环10.Needle-retainingspring/箍簧11.Needle-operatingcams/织针三角12.Cam-box/三角座13.Cam-plate/三角底板14.Headplate/针筒底盘15.Cylinderdrivingpinion/小齿轮attachedtothemaindriveshaft/主传动轴,14,4.2.1.2Theknittingaction成圈过程,Knock-over,Holding-down,15,4.2.1.3Thecamsystem三角系统,Clearingcam/退圈三角Stitchcam/弯纱三角,成圈三角Upthrowcam/回针三角6.Guardcam/护针三角Returncam/回针三角,Theneedlecamrace针三角轨道,16,Racecam/平轨道三角Sinker-withdrawingcam/沉降片挺出三角Sinker-returncam/沉降片回退三角,Thesinkercamrace沉降片三角轨道,17,4.2.1.4Sinkertiming沉降片对位,Pushpoint:Themostforwardpositionofthesinkerduringtheknittingcycle.,Sinkertiming:Therelationshipbetweenthepushpointandtheneedles.,18,4.3Ribstructure罗纹组织,Thesimplestribfabricis11rib.,19,Characteristicsofrib,Hasaverticalcord/凸条appearanceMoreexpensivetoproducethanplainBeelastic,form-fitting/适体,andretainwarmth/保暖betterthanplainRequiresfineryarnthanasimilargauge/机号plainmachine,20,Propertiesof11rib,HastheappearanceofthetechnicalfaceofplainfabriconbothsideswithoutstretchRelaxesbyapproximately30percentcomparedwithitsknittingwidth,21,Propertiesof11rib,LiesflatwithoutcurlCanbeunrovedfromtheendknittedlastCannotbeunrovedfromtheendknittedfirst,22,Suitablefortheextremitiesofarticles:,Topsofsocks袜口Cuffsofsleeves袖口Bordersofgarments下摆Stollingandstrappingforcardigans/开衫毛衫,23,4.3.1Ribset-outs罗纹配置,Singleorsimpleribs窄罗纹,Broadribs宽罗纹,21,31,etc,63,32,etc,24,Swissrib瑞士罗纹,Skeleton11rib2隔1抽针罗纹,25,Englishrib英式罗纹,26,4.3.2Theknittingactionofthecircularribmachine/罗纹圆机成圈过程,Yarnfeeding垫纱,Knocking-over脱圈,Clearing退圈,27,4.3.3Needletiming针的对位,Itistherelationshipbetweentheloop-formingpositions/成圈位置ofthedialandcylinderneedles.,28,Synchronizedtiming同步成圈,Alsoknowaspoint,jacquardand22timingHightensionduringloopformation,29,Delayedtiming滞后成圈,AlsocalledriborinterlocktimingFabricistighterandhasbetterrigidityRibjacquardorbroadribscannotbeproducedinthisway,30,Advancedtiming超前成圈,Besometimesusedintheproductionoffiguredrippledouble-jerseyfabrics/花式波纹罗纹组织.,31,4.4Interlockstructure双罗纹(棉毛)组织,Ithasthetechnicalfaceofplainfabriconbothsides.Thewalesoneachsideareexactlyoppositetoeachotherandarelockedtogether.,32,characteristics,ItliesflatwithoutcurlRelaxesbyabout30-40percentormore,comparedwithitsknittedwidthNotunrovefromtheendknittedfirstThicker,heavierandnarrowerthanribofequivalentgaugeRequiresafiner,better,moreexpensiveyarn,33,4.4.1Productionofinterlockfabric双罗纹组织的编织,Aninterlockmachinemusthavethefollowing:,Interlockgating双罗纹配置TwoseparatecamsystemsineachbedNeedlessetoutalternately,34,Needlesofinterlockmachine:,Longneedles长针（低踵针）Shortneedles短针（高踵针）,35,4.4.2Exampleofaninterlockcamsystem双罗纹三角系统举例,Thecylindercamsystem:,Aclearingcam退圈三角Bstitchcam成圈三角Cguardcam护针三角Dupthrowcam回针三角E,Fguardcam护针三角G,Hguidecam导针三角,36,Thedialcamsystem:,1raisingcam起针三角2,3dialknock-overcam针盘脱圈三角4guardcam护针三角5auxiliaryknock-overcam辅助脱圈三角6,7guidecam导针三角8swingtypeclearingcam摆动退圈三角,4.4.2Exampleofaninterlockcamsystem双罗纹三角系统举例,37,4.5Purlstructure双反面组织,Purlstructurescanbeachievedwithdouble-endedlatchneedles/双头舌针orbyriblooptransfer/罗纹移圈fromonebedtotheother,combinedwithneedlebedracking/针床横移.,38,Thetricks/针槽areoppositetoeachotherandinthesameplane.Sothesinglesetofpurlneedles/双头舌针canbetransferredacrosstoknitoutwardsfromeitherbed.,39,Characteristicsof11purl,Lateralstretch/横向拉伸isequaltoplainLength-wiseelasticity/纵向弹性isalmostdoubleCanbeunrovedfrombothendsWhenrelaxed,itistwiceasthickasplain,40,Anothersimplepurl,Mossstitch桂花针Basketpurls席纹组织,41,Machinesforpurlstructure,Flatbedpurls双反面横机-nolongerbuiltCircularpurls(doublecylindermachines)双针筒圆机Electronically-controlledV-bedribmachines电脑横机,42,Engagement/啮合oftheheadofthereceivingslider/接针导针片withtheneedlehook/针钩,4Necessaryconditions:,4.5.1Purlneedletransferaction双头舌针的转移运动,43,Camactioncausingtheheadofthedeliveringslider/送针导针片topivotoutwardsfromthetrick/针槽,4Necessaryconditions:,4.5.1Purlneedletransferaction双头舌针的转移运动,44,Sufficientfreespacetoallowtheheadsofthesliderstopivotoutwardsfromtheirtricks,45,Apositiveactionwhichmaintainstheengagementoftheheadofasliderwithaneedlehookthroughoutitsknittingcycle,46,4.5.2Theuseofdividingcams分针三角的应用,Theprincipleofthedividingcamoperationisthatitformsawedgeshape/楔形ofincreasingthicknessbetweentheuppersurfaceoftheneedlehookandtheundersurfaceoftheextendednoseofthedeliveringslider/送针导针片.,47,Theprincipleofthedividingcamoperationisthatitformsawedgeshape/楔形ofincreasingthicknessbetweentheuppersurfaceoftheneedlehookandtheundersurfaceoftheextendednoseofthedeliveringslider/送针导针片.,48,Thedeliveri