人类非物质文化遗产代表作：南京云锦织造技艺

1、世耐前质文化遗产代表作：南京云锦织造技艺Craftsmanship of Nanjing Yunjin brocadeMaintainining the tradition of Chinese imperial brocade, craftsmanship of Nanjing Yunjin brocade is the representation of the highest level Chinese brocade craftsmanship. It enjoys the fame as “a unique talent of China and “Rarity of the wor

2、ld.南京云锦织造技艺存续着中国皇家织造的传统，是中国织锦技艺最高水平的代表。它享 有“中华一绝和“世界瑰宝的美誉。Nanjing Yunjin brocade craftsmanship has a complete system and is a witness to the extraordinary creativity of humanity. With the fame of “Inchof Brocade, Inch of Gold, Nanjing Yunjin brocade represents the greatest achievement of NanjingYunj

3、in brocade craftsmanship and is the traditional Chinese silk handiwork. With a history of 1,580 years, Nanjing Yunjin brocade is the outstanding representative of splendid Chinese traditional culture. It gains the name of “Yunjin (gorgeous brocade as beautiful as the rosy clouds) because of its sple

4、ndid colors and beauty comparable with rosy clouds in the sky.南京云锦织造技艺有着完整的体系，是人类非凡创造力的见证。集南京云锦织造技艺之 大成体现者即南京云锦，是中国传统的丝制工艺品，有寸锦寸金之称，至今已有近1600 年历史，南京云锦是我国优秀传统文化的杰出代表，因其绚丽多姿，美如天上云霞而得名， 至今已有1580年历史。Adopting the core technique of “Weaving the Width of Cloth with Weft tolarge-scale weaving machines compl

5、icatedly structured, it weaves luxurious fabrics such as imperial robe with the material such as silk, golden line and peacock feather line through the manual work of two people up and down the machine. Today, it is still used to make high-end attire and souvenirs.它采用通经断纬”等核心技术在构造复杂的大型织机上，由上下两人手工操作，

6、用蚕 丝线、黄金线和孔雀羽线等材料织出华贵织物，如龙袍等。今天，它仍然被用来制作高档服 装和纪念品。This craftsmanship had lots of advantages: One weft would be completed by several times of flowering so that there was no colorway restrictionsame texture could be designed into different colors to make the brocade look elegant and harmonious. This u

7、nique craftsmanship still could not be replaced by any modern texture technology or machine.这种工艺有很多优点:一根纬纱要经过几次开花才能完成，这样就没有色彩限制一一同 样的纹理可以设计成不同的颜色，使织锦看起来优雅和谐。这种独特的工艺仍然无法被任何 现代纹理技术或机器所取代。Besides, intertexture of gold threads and silver threads was also an important craft of Yunjin Brocade, which made

8、the brocade dignified and graceful to meet the royal requirements. For aulic use, flat cost was ignored during the producing, so that Nanjing Yunjin Brocade, the latercomer surpassed the formers to reach the textiles peak of perfection.此外，金线银线交织也是云锦的一项重要工艺，使云锦高贵典雅，符合皇家的要求。在 日常使用中，生产过程中忽略了平面成本，使后来者南京

9、云锦超越了前者，达到了纺织品的 极致。Preserved primarily in Jiangsu province in eastern China, the method comprises more than a hundred procedures, including manufacturing looms, drafting patterns, the creation of jacquard cards for programming weaving patterns, dressing the loom and the many stages of weaving itself

10、.这种方法主要保存在中国东部的江苏省，包括100多个步骤，包括织机制造、制图、 编织图案提花卡片的制作、织布机的修整和编织本身的许多阶段。The workers view their craft as part of a historical mission since, in addition to creating fabrics for contemporary use, yunjin is used to replicate ancient silk fabrics for researchers and museums. Named for the cloud-like splend

11、our of the fabrics, yunjin remains popular throughout the country.工人们将他们的工艺视为历史使命的一部分，因为除了为当代使用创造织物之外，云锦 还被用来为研究人员和博物馆复制古代丝绸织物。云锦以云朵般华丽而命名，在全国仍然很 受欢迎。During the years of Emperor Kangxi and Jiaqing in Qing Dynasty, there are over 30,000 wooden looms in Nanjing to produce Yunjin brocade. At the end of

12、 Emperor Guangxu, comedown happened badly to the craftsmanship as time went by. To the year 1949, there were only four looms in Nanjing city weaving Yunjin Brocade. After then, great effort on protection was put on it by the government, so that the craft of Yunjin Brocade was passed down till today.

13、清朝康熙、嘉庆年间，南京有3万多台木制织布机生产云锦。光绪末年，随着时间的推 移，工艺发生了严重的下降。到1949年，南京只有四台织布机织云锦。此后，政府加大了 保护力度，云锦工艺流传至今。As the technology developing, more and more new kinds of cloths come out while the demand of Yunjin Brocade reduces much. Craftsmanship of Yujin Brocade needs plenty of training time and heavy workload so

14、that seldom young men would like to do it. The craft of flowery Brocade has bordered on the extinction.随着科技的发展，越来越多的新型布料问世，而云锦的需求量却大幅下降。玉瑾织锦工 艺需要大量的训练时间和繁重的工作量，所以很少有年轻人愿意做。花锦工艺濒临灭绝。There are important significations in Yunjin Brocade, which could deliver important information to Chinese histories of technology, crafts and culture. It is one of the Four Famous Brocades in China and the other three are Sichuan brocade of Chengdu, Song brocade of Suzhou and Zhuang brocade of Guangxi. Craftsmanship of Nanjing