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ThefourbeautiesinancientChinaandtheaestheticalstandard(审美标准)oftheancientwomenXiShi,alsocalledXiZi,whowasbornintheSpringandAutumnPeriod,theYuestate,istheheadofthefourbeautiesofancientChina,sheisheavenlybeautyandhasgracefulcharm.TheYuestatewasdefeatedbyWu,thekingofYuewantedtostate,soXiShiandZhengDanwerededicatedto(献给)thekingofWu.LaterXiShibecametheKing'sfavoriteconcubine,disrupting(破坏)theorderofWu.YuestatecrossingtheopportunityandbeattheWustate.XiShi'sbeautywassaidtobesoextremethatwhileleaningoverabalconytolookatthefishinthepond,thefishwouldbesodazzledthattheyforgottoswimandsankawayfromthesurface.沉鱼醉——翎翼玉指拨弦万籁衰,姑苏台外水波开。美人笑靥惊天色,惹醉鱼儿沉下来。Thesmileofthebeautifulwomanmakesthecoloroftheskychanged,thefishinthewateralsosanktothebottomduetoseeingthissmilingface.WangZhaojun,whowasborninZigui,Hubei

Province.InthefirstyearofEmperorHanJian

Zhao,Wangwasselectedwhentheemperorcallintothebeautyintheworld.Later,shemarriedbeyondtheGreatWalltobuildfriendshipbetweenHanandHunandstopthewarforhalfacentury.WangZhaojunleftherhometownonhorsebackonabrightautumnmorningandbeganajourneynorthward.Alongtheway,thehorseneighed,makingZhaojunextremelysadandunabletocontrolheremotions.Asshesatonthesaddle,shebegantoplaysorrowfulmelodiesonastringedinstrument.Aflockofgeeseflyingsouthwardheardthemusic,sawthebeautifulyoungwomanridingthehorse,immediatelyforgottoflaptheirwings,andfelltotheground.Fromthenon,Zhaojunacquiredthenickname"fellsgeese"or"dropsbirds."李白《王昭君》另一昭君拂玉鞍,上马蹄红颜。今日汉宫人,明朝胡地妾。Zhao

wipe

jadesaddle

and

then

ride

west.

Today

she

is

awomen

belong

to

palace,but

tomorrow

she

will

be

the

wife

of

hun.DiaoChanwasaShanxi

Xinzhouperson.ShewasofficialWangYun’ssingerintheEasternHanDynasty.Shewasprettybeautifulandheavenlyfragrance–peony(国色天香),herbeautycouldoverthrowthecountriesandcities.EasternHan,thedynastywasmanipulated(操纵)byatraitor(逆贼),DongZhuo.Wang

YunworriedthatDongZhuowouldusurp(篡夺)theEasternHanDynasty,sohethoughtaseriesofstratagems(计谋).FirsthesentDiaoChantoLvBusecretly,thensenthertoDongZhuoinpublic.DiaoChanmovedinthetwoperson.Thetwomanwasdeeplyfascinated.OnedaywhenDiaoChanenjoyedthemooninthegarden,thelightwindsuddenlycame,thebrightmoonwascoveredbyapieceofcloud,whichwasseenbyWangYun.Inordertopublicizedhowbeautifulhisdaughteris,WangYunalwayssaidtootherpeoplethathisdaughterwasmorebeautifulthanthemoonbecausethemoonquicklyhiddenbehindthecloudswhencomparedwithDiao

Chan.Therefore,DiaoChanisalsoknownas"outshining

themoon".美人为计凝眉愁,思前想后无心休。一心思报王公恩,无意为国雪恨仇。高贵典雅应为貂,歌声婉约当属蝉。貂蝉之貌使月闭,不知王公情何堪?——《貂蝉赋》Sheisasnoble

andelegant

asamink(貂),hersangisasgracefulasacicada(蝉).DiaoChan’sgoodlooksmakethemoonhid,peopledon’tknowMrWang’sfeeling.YangYuhuan(719-756),alsocalledTaiZhen,theancestralhomeofPuzhou

Yongle(nowShanxi

Yongjicounty),wasborninSichuanChengdu(nowSichuanChengdu).AfterbeingShouwang

Limao’s

rani(王妃),shebecameLiLongji’shigh-rankedimperialconcubine(贵妃).。Afterenteringthepalace,Yangmissdhome.Shecried”WhencanIhavemyday?”Whenshetouchedtheflower.Petalsshrinkedinstantlyandleavesrolled.Then,amaidsawandsaideverywherethatYangYuhuancomparedbeautywithflowers,flowershungitsheadshamefacedly.That'swhyYangalsocalled"xiuhua".长安回望绣成堆,山顶千门次第开。一骑红尘妃子笑,无人知是荔枝来。——《过华清宫绝句》杜牧天生丽质难自弃,一朝选在君王侧。回眸一笑百媚生,六宫粉黛无颜色。——《长恨歌》白居易Endowedwithnaturalbeautytoohardtohide,Onedayshestoodselectedforthemonarch’sside.Turningherhead,shesmiledsosweetandfullofgraceThatsheoutshoneinsixpalacesthefairestface.Anyaesthetictasteofaneraandwascloselyrelatedwiththepolitical,economic,socialandculturalbackgrounds,andthefactorstothemisthechangeofsocial,whichmeansthatsocialenvironmentconstraintspeopleappreciatingbeautyandactsofpursuitingbeauty.Atonetime,theancientChineseaestheticandideologicalconnotationaren’tjusthappenwithoutfoundation,itmustberootedinaspecificera.商纣先秦两汉魏晋隋唐宋元明清Rouge(胭脂),akindofhairdressingcosmeticstheancientwomenmostwidelyused,comesfromflowerscalledYanZhi(燕支),soitalsocalledYanZhi(燕支).DatedfromZhouperiod,itcondensedwith(凝结)flowers(红蓝花)tocleanfaceatfirst.Inancienttimes,thepalacearecommonlyusedrougetomakeup.Rubbingcheekstoothickwascalled“winedizzymakeup“(酒晕妆),alightshinewascalled”peachmakeup”(桃花妆)andfirstthinrougethenawhitepowdercoatwascalled“flychardonnaymakeup”(飞霞妆).Later,itcanalsowiperougeonthelip,whichistheprototypeofthelipstick.桃花妆Intheearlytime,peopleoftenuse“fair“(粉黛)todescribewomen.Infact,powderisancientwomen‘scosmetics(化妆品).IntheperiodofShangZhou(商纣时期),thefemalehasthepursuitofbeauty.Peopleknewtoburnleadpowder(烧铅坐粉)toapplyontheface,makingtheskinsmooth.

InnerbeautyclothingDelicate,obedientandgentle

KingChuperformswaistandtherearemanypeoplestarvetodeathinthepalacemoralityandtalentSimplicitynodecorationTheappearancePre-QinandHanDynastiesWomenthroughfoodintake(食物摄入),themaintenanceofdrugs(药物的保养),tocondition(护理)theirlook,bodyandskinfromtheinside.Andatthattimewomenwererespected(推崇)drinkingthedonkey-hidegelatinsoup,whichhavebeendevelopedasahabit,particularlyinthewinter,womenwilldrinkeveryday.Therefore,thewomeninthepalaceallhaveabeautifulface.ThemostinterestingisthefacemakeupofHandynastywomen:Womenarecoatedwithwhitemakeupontheirface,usetheredcoatinginthemouthandtheoutlineoflipsisprettysmall.Thismeansthatfromthenonthe"lookingpale(面如凝脂)","cheerylips(樱桃小口)"willbecomethebasicstyleofancientfeminine(妇女的)beauty.Thereisnouniformstandardforpeopleofaestheticbeautyofwomen,coupledby(加之)materialconditions,peoplearemorestressedonwomen‘sinnerbeauty,whichisatemperament

beautycultivatedbylyre-playing,chess,calligraphyandpainting.StartingfromtheWeiandJinperiod,thebeautyofwomenbegantogetthevalueoftheindependenceandtobeappreciatedandcherished(珍视).Xuncharmoncesaid“Comparedwithmoralcharacter,thegirl'sappearanceismoreimportant”.Inspiredbyvirtueofthedeclarationofindependence,womenconsciouslybegantohavethepursuitofbeauty.魏晋Mostofthewomeninthisperiod,worewidesleeve,short

Ru(广袖短襦)andfloor-lengthdress.Herwaistboundedwith"baoyao",andusedclothingtodecorate,andinsertingflowerand"buyao(步摇)"wasalsopopular,whichfurtheremphasizedthewomen'scharmand

grace.Whenmakingup,womenoftenornamentedapointofredoryellow"flower"includingavarietyofshapesbetweentheforehead,andthe"flower"isgivenprioritytotneshapeofleavesorflowers.InthestoryofHua

mulan,theverse(诗句)"combingladyisbeautifulhairbesidethewindow,pastingyellowappliqueinfroutofthewindow"wasjusttheembodiment(体现)ofthedecoration.Therearethreetimeschangeofwomen'sclothingstyleduringWei,JinandtheNorthernandSouthernDynasties.First,inthelateofTheThreeKingdoms,peoplecreatedanewstylenamed"shangchangxiaduan(上长下短)"whichisbreakthroughinthetriditionalclothingstyle.Second,thechangehappenedintheJindynasty).peoplecalled"shangjianxiafeng(上检下丰)"namelyRu(短襦)becameshortandsummerdresswaslengthenedandwidened.Itmadewomenmoreslim,beautifulandelegantduetofitness.Thethirdgreatchangeoccuredinthesoutherndynasty,song,qiandliang.Duetothepromotionofthenobilityandlandlords(士族地主),thestyleofbigsleeveandlongdressreacheditszenith(盛极一时).TotheSui,TangDynasties,therewasabigchangeinthefemaleaesthetic.TheperiodofSuiandTangDynastiesinChina'sfeudal(封建的)societywasaheyday(鼎盛期),femininebeautyalsoreflectedthesocialfashionofbeingplump(丰腴的)andgorgeous(华贵的).隋唐说到主流,胖就是唐朝女人的主流。唐朝女人以肥为美,因为李姓家族本是突厥的后代,少数民族整天喝奶吃肉,长得丰满壮硕。大家都丰满壮硕,所以看多看惯自然觉得顺眼,再加上最高领导也刚好喜欢这一款的,所以玉环则天之流,就成了主流。主流一旦成为主流之后,大家就很难再理性地问声为什么,闭了眼睛跟着走就是了。TangDynasty'sdressembodiesthestrongnationalcustomsandextremepioneeringconsciousness,TangDynastyfemale'sdailyclothingexpressfullywomeninTangDynasty'sboldandopen,thepursuitoftheirownbeautyshowthespiritofthetimesofideologicalconceptandtothenewthingstheyhaveagreatenthusiasmonclothing,theypursuittochangesandinnovation,wearingboldlymen'sandHudress.AbigsocialTangDynastyhadbeendressedupverybeautifully.Topless

clothesThebondage(束缚)ofthetraditionalfeudal(封建)thoughtforwomenisverylarge,andthewomen'sclothingisveryelegantinTangdynasty,willdaretobaretheirchestandfullyshowsthetheircurvaceousbody.Likethepoem“giveforbeauty”ofFangGan:“thehalf-hiddenchestlookslikesnow”,and“thechestlookslikesnowandthefacelookslikeacloud"arethebestexpressionsofthisdress.HufuDuring

the

Tang

dynasty,

the

northern

nomadic

people

associated

with

the

central

plains

frequently,which

had

great

influence

on

the

tang's

costumes.Thehufuculturemadetang'swomenfindeverythingnewandfresh.Hence(因此),aboomofhufufashionswepttheTangdanasty,aswellasitsaccessoriesstandingforhu'slifestyle.Muliandweimao(幕篱和帷帽)aredesignedforwomentocovertheirfacesoutside.ThefeatureofHuihuclothesincludedcollarfolded,narrowsleeve,andlongandwidedressmatchingwaistband.

RuqundressRuqundresswasawomen‘straditionalcostumewhichtheTangdynastywomenoftenwore.Itcontainsashortjacket,askirt,andadecoratedtippet.Thejacketshouldbeshortandsmallwhiletheskirtshouldbefatandlong.Skirtwashightochest,evenwasunderthearmpit(腋).Aftertyingaribbon(丝带),neckandchestwereexposed,whichgivespeopleafeelingofelegant(优雅)andslender(修长).RuqundevelopedtothetopintheTangDynasty,ithadnovel(新颖的)styles,abundant(丰富的)colorsandgorgeous(华丽的)patterns.Becauseoftheinfluenceofpolitics,economy,cultureandsoon,peoplebegantoadvocateasimpleelegantbeauty.Femalebeautychangedopentoelgant(清雅的)andintroverted(内敛的).RoughlyaBuddism

godness

GuanyinBodhisattva(菩萨)offemalebeautyintheap

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