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0GarmentManufacturingBestPractices&Procedures生产管控范例和程序

1Content分类目录PieceGoodsHandling&Processing面料管理程序Cutting裁剪Accessories/Trims/SundriesStorage辅料存储SewingLines车缝Finishing&PackingControls后整和包装QualityManagement品质管理21.PieceGoodsHandling&Processing面料的管理和程序Importantprocesstomanageon-timegarmentdeliverytocustomer确保准时交货的重要步骤MaterialFirstQuality原料品质第一MaterialOnTimeDelivery原料准时交付3Warehouse仓库Fabricshouldbestoredinracksoronpalettesinanorganizedfashion.面料必须分类存放在货架或台板上NoFabricrollsshouldbeonthefloororstandingonend.面料不可以直接放在地上或竖立NoOpenorbrokenpackaging.包装不可以打开或破损Keepfabricsoutofdirectsunlight.面料不可以被阳光直射4Warehouse(cont’d)Fabricsshouldbesegregatedbycolor/shade/customer.面料需按照客户/颜色/缸号分别存放Identifiedclearlywithinformationpertainingtoeachstyle.每款面料必须有清晰明显的标签5Fabricinspection面料检验ImmediatelyuponfabricarrivalInspectminimum10%acrossallcolor/dyelots.面料入库后应尽快抽取至少10%检验,抽样需包括全部颜色/缸号Increaseinspectionasrequiredbaseduponproblemsfound.发现问题后需增加检验数量Ensuregoodconditionandlayoutoffabricinspectionmachine.确保验布机的功能完好Inspect&recordusing4-pointsystem.面料检验使用4分制标准6Fabricinspection(cont’d)Fabricinspectionreport面料检验报告Completedinspectionresultwithconclusion&actiontakenforproblemdetected.LookforManagersignatures.完整的检验结果包括发现问题后的结论和处理方法,管理层的签署Reportsandfabricswatchestobekeptonthefabricinspectionsection检验报告和样卡必须存放在面料检验部Fabricinspectionreportwithfabricswatchesattached面料检验报告和布样7Fabricinspection(cont’d)Visuallibraryoffabricdefectstobedisplayednearthefabricinspectionareatobeusedasguidanceandcontinuouslearning在面料检验区域张贴面料瑕疵样,以便在检验时对照和参考8Fabricinspection(cont’d)Separateclearlymarkedquarantineareaforrejectedfabric检验不合格的面料需存放在有明显标注的隔离区Onlyreleasethequalifiedfabricforproduction

产品只能使用检验合格的面料9In-housefabrictesting&control面料内部测试和控制Animportantmanufacturingprocesstoensurequalityofproducts确保生产品质的重要程序Acompulsoryrequirementforfactorytoverifyfabricqualitypriortoproceedbulk这是强制要求,工厂必须在大货生产前检验面料In-housetestrecordsshouldbecompleted/wellorganizedwithneededinformationfortrackinginadditiontofabric&garmenttestreportsbyapproved3rdpartylab内部测试记录需完整,包括除了由认可的第三方检验室出具的面料和成衣测试报告外以及其他必须的检测记录10In-housefabrictesting&control(cont’d)Weightcontrol克重控制Alldye-lotsweighedandcomparedtostandard.测试所有缸号的克重并与标准比对11In-housefabrictesting&control(cont’d)Shadebandcontrol缸差控制Lightboxwillbeneededforshadecheckingandgrouping;需使用灯箱来查看和分类Shadebandcardfornon-washedprogram不水洗的缸差表Checkallrollsagainstapprovedcolorstandardundercustomer’srequiredlightsources;在客人确认的灯光下用确认的色样与每疋布对比GroupsimilarshadesbyPObeforecutting.裁剪前按合同数量来分配使用相同或接近的缸号AB122.Cutting裁剪Appropriateequipmenttobeused使用合适的设备Cuttingtablesarewellmaintained裁剪台维护得当Clean,freeofStickers,Tape,Damagedsurfacesandlevel.整洁,无多余的贴纸,胶带,破损和平整13Priortocutting裁剪前Fabricrelaxationbeforespreading:拉布前先松布Usingappropriatemachinetorelaxthefabricrolls;使用合适的设备松布Appropriateshelvestorelax&storebyindividualroll每疋布需分开松布和松布后存放Mustbecoveredtoprotectfromdustatalltimeduringstorage.存放时要覆盖好避免灰尘Atleast24hrsforknitandwovenfabricwithspandex;12hrsfornormalknitfabricwithoutspandex;

针梭织的弹力布至少松布24小时,无弹力针织布至少需12小时Cleardisplayedrecordoffabricrelaxationtime.松布记录需清楚显示松布时间Fabricrelaxingmachine松布机Hangtagstodisplayeddetail货架上的标示牌

WellCoveredShelves/racksforindividualfabricrolls货架上正确存放放松后的面料14Priortocutting(cont’d)Fabricpre-shrunkmachine面料防缩机Itishighlyrecommendedtousethemachinetopre-shrinkthefabricwithunstableshrinkagetoavoidmeasurementdeviationonbulk.极度推荐使用此防缩机来避免因为面料的不稳定缩率影响大货尺寸15Priortocutting(cont’d)Shadelotstobesegregatedfromcuttingtopacking;缸差分类需从裁剪开始直到包装Cuttingplan/ticketareissuedbydye/shadelot;分缸从裁剪计划/标贴缸号开始Afabriclayerreporttoidentifynumberoffabriclayers,fabricusedperrollandtheyardageofexcessfabricperrollisrecommendedforrecordkeeping裁剪记录需记录每疋布的疋号,拉布的层数,和剩余数量(itwilleventuallyhelpthecuttingroomstafftocreateabundlecontrolreports这些数据可以帮助裁剪人员建立完整的控制报告).16Priortocutting(cont’d)Spreading拉布Checkmarkersforstyle/PO#,components,grainline,pattern/napdirection,notchesandsizes;检查唛架上的款号/合同号,组件,布纹线,剪切口和尺寸等Ideallyusingtensionfreespreadingmachinetoavoidpullingorstretchingofthefabric.建议使用自动拉布机,避免人工造成的拉力不稳定Fabriclots/rollstobesegregatedtocontrolshades;

面料需分缸Spreadingheight(subjecttothefabricnature):不同面料的拉布高度Woven≦5”梭织类不高于5英寸Knit≦4”针织类不高于4英寸Fleece≦6”绒毛类不高于6英寸Denim:牛仔类

≦60-70pilesfor11.5-12.5oz11.5-12.5安士的不超过60-70层

≦80pilesforbelow10oz10安士以下的不超过80层17Whilecutting裁剪时

Acompliancerequirementforcuttersistousesteelglove裁剪工人必须强制使用金属手套Metalclampsusedtoholdedgeofeachlayorbundle使用金属夹子固定布边和分包18Aftercutting裁剪后Panelschecking:裁片检查Cutpanelaccuracyaudit裁片偏刀检查Takingtop,middleandbottomlayersofeachcriticalbundleandcomparingwithpattern.从裁片的上/中/下各抽取一片与纸板比对Cutpanelquality裁片品质

Theneedtoperformthisshouldbedeterminedbaseduponfabricinspectionresults.根据面料检验的标准去检验裁片Anyfabricdefectivepartfound,replacethepanelusingthelayreporttolocatetheremnantyardage.配片应根据裁剪记录找回同一疋布的余布去配换Discrepanciesarereportedwithcorrectionandimprovement.有问题时记录上必须有改正或改善的方案19Aftercutting(cont’d)Panelnumberingtoidentifytheshadelot裁片编号用于缸号识别

Throughoutsewingprocessuntilpacking(exceptforgarmentsthatrequirewashing);控制从车缝直到包装(除成衣水洗外)Whengarmentsarewashed:成衣水洗eachcutiskeptinpalletsseparatelyandclearlyidentified;按缸号分包并标示清楚differentcutsarenotfedinsamewashingload分缸水洗Cutpanelfeedingtosewingline裁片进车间Insidelargebinsortrolleys,buttobecoveredatalltimeduringstoragebetweenthecuttingandsewingfloors裁片在由裁剪房运送到车间时,需全程覆盖好用箱子或手推车运送203.Accessories/Trims/SundriesStorage辅料仓库

Shouldbewellpacked,covered,organizedandidentified辅料存放必须整齐,有序,覆盖并标识清楚Properlystoredandorganizedbystyle;按款式分别存放和管理CheckedinQuality&Quantity;品质和数量检验VerifiedagainstapprovedspecimenandBOM;确认样板和物料清单Reportdocumentedwithcorrectionactionsoncetheproblemidentified&evaluated.如果发现问题,报告文件上应有改善或纠正方案和行动Duplicatedtrimcardswithsamplesforeachrelevantproductionsections.所有相关生产部门都必须有辅料卡与辅料实样214.Sewing车缝Sewinglinesshouldbewellorganizedandsetupneatlyinordertogivethemosteffectiveproductionflow.车缝线应该有完善的管理并设定高效生产流程Appropriatemachineryisequippedtoenhancetheworkmanship&productivity;使用适当的设备有助于提高工艺和产能Appropriateattachments,guides,folders&templatesareusedtoenhancethequalityconsistencyandproductivity.Piecesoftapearenotconsideredtobeappropriateguides.适当的辅助工具,指引书,文件和模板将有助于保持品质的一致和效能的提高,Skillleveloftheoperatorsandqualitymind-setofthesupervisors/Managementsupportingthecontinuedqualityimprovement.工人的技能水平和管理人员的心态都会影响到品质的持续提高程度Monitoringeachprocessatrighttiming,notonlyforqualitybutforproductioncontrol.在适当时间内监管每道工序,不单只是品质而是整个生产控制22Machinemaintenance&repair设备保养和维修PreventativeMaintenanceProgramssetuptoensureallsewingequipmentisingoodcondition:制定设备防护检修系统,保障设备维持良好状态Dailymaintenance&cleanlinesschecklist每日维护和清洁的检查记录Monthlymaintenancerecordincludingoilrefill/change,changeorrepairofmachinepartsandtable.月度维护记录需包括加机油的补充/更换,零部件/台板的维修/更换Rovingmechanicatsewingfloors.车间里流动/共享设备23Brokenneedlepolicy断针管理Brokenneedlecontrolpolicyinplace:张贴断针管理条例Writtenprocedures/flowchartdisplayed展示换针的程序和流程图Brokenneedlechangeprocedureandrecord;断针更换程序和记录Actiontoberecordedforunfoundbrokenparts.没有找全断针部分的处理行动Aswellasabrokenneedleproceduretheremustbeapolicyinplacetoroutinelychangeneedles.完善的断针管理流程和固定的换针地方24Sewinglines车缝线Approvedsamplewithcomments,trimcard&updatedtechpack:确认样与评语,辅料卡和最新的工艺单Visibleatsewinglineandeasilyaccessible;放在当眼处和便于取用比对translatedinlocallanguage使用当地语言Informationboardsattheendofthesewingline,listingdatasuchas:生产详情表设在车缝线后面,包括以下内容Feed-onquantity计划产量Targetquantity目标产量Feed-offquantity实际产量Defectiverate次品比率RFT(Right-first-time)rate良品比率MostrecentTOP3defectsoftheline线上比率最高的3大问题Completedbythelinesupervisor线长的工作Anyqualityissuefindings发现的品质问题Bottle-neckoperation影响产能的问题25Sewingline(cont’d)Machineadjustment设备调校Verifystitchingdensity(SPI)&tensiondailyoranynewoperation/newstylestarted.每天/换工序/换款时检查设备线迹密度和松紧Mock-ups/standardoperation:操作标准Aneffectivewayofcommunicatingstandardsamongsewers,supervisors&QC

在工人/线长/主管或QC中建立畅通有效的沟通途径Settingtheacceptablespecimenofeachcriticaloperations为每个工序设定可接受的标准26Sewingline(cont’d)Systematicprocedureinplace:Roving(in-line)QC:巡检Evidenceshowsalloperationareinspectedaminimumofevery2hours.每2小时的巡检记录Records/systemsshowingtheproblemsareidentified,documented,corrected&followuponcorrections.记录/系统上可以找到发现的问题,记录,改正和跟进的方案Closecommunicationwiththeend-lineQCtocalibratewhethertheproblemfindingsarealignedorcorrected.与终检QC统一所出现问题的检验标准27Sewingline车缝Systematicprocedureinplace(cont’d):End-lineQC:终检100%checkingthefinishedgarmentsattheworkstationwithsufficientspace&wellilluminated;在充足的位置和灯光下百分百检验成品Visualreferenceofdefectavailable.有瑕疵问题参照样Consistentinspectionsequencethroughoutallgarments(Method);按统一顺序检查所有成品Defectivefindingsaredocumentedbykeydefectitems,e.g.brokenstitches,skippedstitches,puckeringseam/stitches,hole,stain,…检验记录上标记以下主要问题,如断线,跳线,车线/拼缝皱缩,破洞,油污等Defectivegarmentsareseparatedintoidentifiedboxessuchasrepairs,stainsorseconds瑕疵品分别堆放,如返修,洗污或二等品Randomlycheckthemeasurementsanddocument

抽量尺寸并记录28SewinglineSystematicprocedureinplace(cont’d):Dailyqualitybriefing:品质日记Atendofdayorfirstthinginthemorning,QAManagertoholdashortbriefingwiththerovingQC/endlineQCs,thelinesupervisorandthemechanictoanalyzethedefectivereportrecordsandidentifytheTOP3Defectsforsolution.每天的早上或晚上,品质主管召集巡检QC/终检QC,线长和机修工一起分析研究报告上前3个主要问题的解决方案Ifthisprocessiseffectivethenthetop3shouldbedifferentdaily!如果这些解决方案是有效的,那么出现在每天报告上的前3个主要问题应该是不相同的29Sewingline(cont’d)Housekeeping车间维护Clean&tidy;干净和整齐Allsewingmachinetables,workstations&binsmustbefreeoftape,stickers&snags;所有设备台,工作位置和工具柜不应该有贴纸和破损Cutpanelorsemi-productmustbewellcoveredandkeptproperly;裁片和半成品应该覆盖和摆放在适当的地方Nowhite(orlight)colorgoodsmixedwithdarkcolorrunningatthesamesewinglineorkeptatthesamestoragerack.深浅色的产品不可以在同一线上生产或摆放在同一地方Lightorwhitecoloredgarmentsshouldbekeptinpolybagsthroughouttheproductionprocess.浅色产品在整个生产过程必须用胶袋包裹305.Finishing&PackingControls后整和包装

Thisareaalsoneedstobeeffectivelyengineeredtoensureseparationofgoodsbycustomer,style,colorandsize.Thiswillassistinpreventingunnecessarypackingerrors.产品按照客户,款式,颜色和尺码分开堆放,可以防止或避免包装错误PackingareaisC-TPATcompliancewhereallpackedgoodsarelocatedinanenclosedareathatallowonlyauthorizedpersonneltoenter.包装部是反恐管制区域,成品箱只能存放在封闭区内,只有活动授权人员可以进入封闭区31Buttoningsection(ifseparatefrommainproductionfloor)纽扣部门(是否不在生产车间内)Apreventivemaintenanceprogramandroutinecleaningprocedureforequipment.设备的保养和日常清洁程序Eachbuttonholemustbelock-stitched,cleanlycutwithnorawedges;所有钮门必须锁底,开口位整齐没有毛口Eachbuttonmustbelock-stitchedbyLockstitchButtoningMachine.所有纽扣必须使用有底线锁底的钉钮车TheuseofManuallyOperatedPressestoapplysnapsisprohibited.

四合扣等扣子不接受使用手工操作的设备32Pressingsection燙烫部门Ensurethecleanlinessoftheareaandallpressingcovers.Pressingcoversshouldberoutinelychangedtoavoidthetransferofdirttogarments.熨烫区域和熨台布必须整洁,熨烫台布需每天更换,以避免衣服沾染其他颜色或脏污AllironswherenecessaryequippedwithTeflonshoes.如有需要熨斗需套上熨斗套Propertemplateormarkingusedtomaintainthegarmentshapeandmeasurement.熨烫时使用模板或在熨烫台上按纸板画出基本版型,保证衣服的版型和尺寸Pressingstandardisbriefedandsetforguidance.熨烫标准需简明清晰Nohighpilesofironedproducts.熨烫好的衣服不要堆叠摆放33Finalchecking终检Finalinspectionbeforepacking:包装前终检Briefingthecriticalcheckingpointstoinspectors向检验员提示检验重点Garmentinspectionsequenceisconsistentthroughoutallgarments:成衣的检验顺序必须一致Inspectionfindingsareidentified,classified,recordedandreportedtomanagementforcorrection;有问题的成衣需分类并记录向管理汇报,以便统计返修Workstationprovidessufficientspace&wellilluminated;检验工作位需有充足的空间和灯光Visualreferenceavailable.有检验标准样Inspectorsaretrainedtomeasureaspercustomermanual:检验员量尺需经过培训以到达客户要求AllgarmentsmustbecheckedonKeypoints.所有成衣必须量度重要部位Updatesizespecavailable使用最新的尺寸表Discrepanciesarereportedtomanagementforcorrection如有差异

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