皮革分级训练LeatherAssessmentandGrading.ppt

SATRA Leather Assessment and Grading SATRA 皮革评估和分级,SO LETS START AT THE BEGINNING 那么，让我们从最初开始 IN A PERFECT WORLD WE WOULD HAVE. 在一個理想的世界, 如果我們有,The Reality is a Silly Shape. 实际上牛皮是奇怪的形状,with a woolly coat that hides any problems underneath 羊毛外衣下面有可能隐藏任何问题,Faults in hides and skins 皮革的缺陷,In the short term NO! 短期内不会!,Will the faults in hides and skins be reduced? 皮革上的缺陷 会减少吗?,Common Scratches 普通的划伤 Brand Marks 烙印 Healed scars (closed/open) 医治伤疤 （封闭的/开裂的） Tick bites/warble fly 蜱伤/牛皮蝇 Stretch/growth neck marks 颈部伸展纹/生长纹,Found on a living Animal 活牲畜身上的瑕疵,Hide and Skin Defects 皮革的瑕疵,Brands 烙印,A brand is a mark made by the owner of the animal to distinguish ownership 烙印是动物主人用来识别他们的拥有物,Scratches or wire marks 划伤或网痕,Scars on the animal after scratching themselves on an object, such as a barbed wire fence 动物自行在其他物体上的划伤而留在自身上的伤疤， 比如铁丝网划擦,Growth marks 生长纹,Found on the neck and shoulders caused by up and down movements of the animals head 动物的头部由于上下活动而在颈部和肩部留下的印记,Insect or parasite damage 昆虫或寄生虫的伤害,Scars caused by insect bites, most commonly ticks 由于昆虫咬伤而导致的伤疤，大部分是虱伤,Veins 脉络,If buffed too severely the tube of the vein can be broken causing it to open on the leathers surface 如果过于抛摩，血管脉络就会就会破裂导致皮革表面开裂,The Structure is Not Uniform 组织结构不均一,Leather Dream or Nightmare? 皮革 梦想还是噩梦?,SATRA leather grading SATRA 皮革分级,SATRASumm leather grading SATRASumm 皮革分级,Optimising cutting efficiency to reduce waste and save money 提高裁断最大效率来降低废料并节省成本,Fit for purpose? 符合既定用途？ Appropriate for the product? 适合产品的要求？ Consistent within the range? (within the capabilities of the company to use) 一致符合要求范围（企业能够使用）,Establishing usability 确定使用率,Is the material: 材料是否:,Usability is NOT the same as quality 使用率 不 等同于品质,Measure the leather 丈量皮革,Take samples for Laboratory testing 为实验室测试取样,Check thickness and colour 检验厚度和颜色,Carry out instructions as per the specification 根据规范执行各项工作指令,What are the steps needed? 需要哪些步骤？,Store the material correctly 正确储存材料,Record information 记录信息,Inspect for defects 检查瑕疵,To ensure that the measurement on the back of the material is correct 确保标在皮革背面的丈量数据正确,Purposes of Leather Measurement? 丈量皮革的目的？,Leather Measurement 皮革丈量- 要会用量皮机,Inspecting for defects 检验瑕疵,How to look for defects 如何寻找瑕疵,Look at the leather for any surface defects 看着皮革寻找一切表面瑕疵,Pull the leather from underneath to find any hidden defects 从底面拉皮革寻找一切隐藏瑕疵,Look at areas such as the shank pockets and belly for loose material 看小腿肚和腹部区域找出松弛材料,Check the back of the leather for any flesh cuts or weak areas 检查皮革的背部查看任何肉面割伤或薄弱区域,Storage 储存,Incorrect storage can lead to damaged leather 错误的储存会损坏皮革,Storage 储存,Leather should be stored correctly with the grain side undamaged 皮革必须正确的储存粒面才不受损坏,Purpose of SATRA leather grading SATRA 皮革分级的目的,To establish consistent grading parameters between the tannery and customer (shoe factory) by determining the quality and cut ability of all leathers 通过决定所有皮革的品质和裁断的使用率建立制革厂和客户（鞋厂）之间建立一致的分级参数,SATRA will NOT set the quality standards of the leather. Instead we will work to the standards already agreed between the brand, factory and leather supplier SATRA 不会 设立皮革的品质标准。我们遵从品牌，工厂和皮革供应商互相已经同意的标准。,SATRA Leather Grading Training 皮革分級訓練,SATRA 5 Point Leather Grading SATRA 的5點皮革分級,Our consultants will train the leather inspectors to grade the leather to a high and consistent standard 我们的顾问专家会训练皮革检查员对皮革分级达到一个高标和稳定的标准,SATRA 5-point Grading SATRA的5点分级,Tools for leather grading 皮革分级工具,Period of Training 训练周期,5 days in that time two groups of up to 8 people can be trained, to train up to 16 people in total 5天 这期间总共可培训16人，分為2组，每组8人 Can be reduced depending on how many people need to be trained 时间可减少，具体根据培训人数来决定 Minimum of 3 days training, to train a group up to 8 people 培训一组8人需要至少3天时间,Requirements 要求,Training Room 培训室 Ideally a room with a large table where 2 to 4 skins can be laid out. 需要一间房间和一张大桌子，可以放下2-4张皮,Requirements 要求,Leather approximately 100 skins of leather of various types and grades will be required over the 5 days training 皮革-在这5天中大约需要100张不同类型和等级的皮 Box of white and coloured pencils to mark the skins (or stitch mark pens) 一盒白色或彩色铅笔来画皮 (或标示针车线记号的笔) A large wipeboard + assortment of coloured pens 一面白板 + 不同颜色的白板笔,Training 培训,The training will be in 3 stages using the standard pattern and grid supplied by SATRA 培训将会有3个阶段，并使用SATRA提供的模板和格子板 Progression to the next stage will only occur when all the team are confident that they have reached the target set and that all the team agree the grades of the leather being assessed 只有在每阶段当所有学员有信心达到设置的目标并互相认同所评定之皮革的等级后,才能进入下一阶段的培训,Stage 1 第一阶段,Skins will be marked using the chalk and standard pattern to show areas of the skin that cannot be used. 使用粉笔和标准内腰身板来画出皮上不可使用的区域 These areas will then be measured using the grid and a grade assigned. 这些区域将会用格子板来计算并给予分级 Each team member will check the other team members skins and agree the areas marked. 每一位学员都将检查其他学员所画的皮，并且对所画皮区域需要互相认同,The grader will mark around any defects which they feel unacceptable for use in the standard inside quarter 分级人员用标准的内腰身板把不能接受的瑕疵圈画出来,Marking the Leather 画皮革,Measuring the defective area 测量瑕疵面积,The defective area is then measured using the grids 使用格子板测量瑕疵面积,Stage 2 第二阶段,Skins will be marked using the chalk and standard pattern to determine areas of the skin that cannot be used. 皮将用粉笔来标记并且用标准模板来确认多少面积不可以被使用 Each member of the class will then give an estimate as to the area of the skin that is unusable by using their eyes only (no grid). 每一位学员需要用眼来判断皮的不可被使用的面积（不能使用格子板） Each member of the class must be able to accurately estimate the area that is unusable, and hence assign a grade to each skin. 每一位学员必须能够精确的判断不可使用的区域， 并且能够给每张皮等级,Stage 2 第二阶段,Stage 3 第三阶段,Skins will be assessed by the trainees by eye only. No grids, nor marking will be used. 皮革分级学员将只能用眼观察来判定。 不可使用格子板或画皮 When each member of the class has given his/her estimate as to how much is unusable, then the waste area will be measured. 当所有学员给出皮革的不可用面积后，废料面积将会被测量 This will continue until every member of the class can give each skin the correct grade, and also estimate the waste area correctly, without marking the skins. 这个步骤将会重复至每位学员能够准确分级，并且同时能在不画皮的情况下正确的判断不可使用区域,Stage 3 第三阶段,Establishing the grade 建立分级,The grading table below shows the skin size in the left hand column and the upper limits for each grade 以下分级表左边纵向是皮革尺寸及每个级别的最高限制,A skin of 23.25 square feet, with 4.15 square feet of defect area would be classed as a grade 4 例如一张皮革的尺寸为23.25尺，4.15尺的瑕疵面积将被定义为4级,SATRA accreditation SATRA认证,If the training went well during the visit, and the graders performed well, the audit can be carried out straight away. We will assess the performance of the graders by the end of training. 如果此拜访中培训进行顺利, 分级人员表现良好, 那么可以直接进行审核。我们可以在训练完成后进行对分级人员的成效评估。 Ensure that there is at least a 95% correlation between the graders results 确保分级人员之间的分级数据的正确率至少达95% Certi