服装专业外文翻译服装的发展和市场销售.docx

clothing of the development and marketingfashion is anything that is currently “in”. fashion usually means clothes, but there are fashion in hairstyles，in home decorating, and in the foods that we eat. several years ago, very few people ate yogurt. now yogurt is very popular and fashionable.many years ago, fashion changes very slowly. changes in technology current gradually and communications between groups of people took a long time. people often wore the same style of clothing for their whole life.sometimes a particular style of clothing continued for more than a lifetime. an outfit that was worn for special occasions was often handed down from generation to generation. the nobility might be able to afford new styles of clothing, but the lower classes could not. today, fashion changes very quickly. new technology creates new fashion. new forms of communication, such as radio, television, and the computer, can tell us this afternoon what people in london were wearing this morning.advertisement and articles about fashion contain terms such as “fad”, “classic”, and “status symbol”. if you understand what these terms mean, it will help you to become a wiser and more informed consumer. you will be able to select clothes that meet your own needs and wants. you will be able to better evaluate clothing style as to how long they might stay in fashion.a fad is a fashion that is very popular for a short time, and then suddenly it seems as if nobody is wearing it. a fad can be a color, such as mauve or chartreuse. it can be an accessory, such as earth shoes or rhinestone jewelry. fads can also be an item of clothing. short miniskirts and trooper pants with many pockets are example of a fad. fads can even be a certain look, such as “punk-rock”.fads usually involve less expensive items of clothing or accessories. for example, wearing colored shoelaces in your sneaker is a fad. “pop-it” plastic necklaces were a fad in the 1950s. fluorescent socks, camouflage pants, and leg warmers were fads in the early 1980s.many fads are popular only with teenagers. fads help the teenager express two important needs. the fist need is to belong to a group. many teenagers want to be a part of a group that is special and different from the rest of the world. the other need is for individuality. teenagers many adapt fads in unique ways to express their own individuality within a group. the principles of design are artistic guidelines for using the various design elements-lines, shape, space, texture, and color-within a garment. these principles include balance, proportion, emphasis, rhythm, and harmony.balancebalance is how the internal spaces of a shape work together. balance can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. symmetrical balance occurs when the space within a garment is divided into equal parts. a simple skirt with a center front seam and a simple shirt with a center front closing are example of symmetrical balance. both the left front and the right front of each garment are the same. symmetrical balance usually has a more formal or tailored look.proportionproportion is size relationship of each of the internal spaces within a garment to one another and to the total look. the most pleasing proportions are those that are unequal. for example, a garment split exactly in half by a belt or horizontal seam is usually less attractive than one that is divided unevenly.clothing should also be in proportion or scale to your own size. if you are short or small-framed, stay away from large, overpowering details, such as wide lapels and collars, or huge pockets and bows. if you are tall or large-framed, avoid tiny details. the selection of accessories also involves an understanding of proportion. ties, belts, jewelry, hats, handbags, shoes, and boots are available in a wide range of shapes and sizes. be sure that the accessories you choose are in proportion to your outfit and to you.emphasisemphasis is the focal point, or center of interest, of a garment. in fashion design, emphasis should highlight your best features and draw attention away from your figure faults. emphasis can be accomplished with line, design details, color, texture, trims, or accessories. for example, a colorful belt would emphasis a waistline. a contrasting collar would focus attention on your neckline. a bright tie or shiny buttons could be a center of interest.rhythmrhythm is the pleasing arrangement of all the parts of a garment. good rhythm is apparent when all the lines of an outfit work well together. for example, a curved pocket compliments the curve of a jacket them. a pointed shirt collar repeats the point of a jacket lapel. rhythm can also be achieved through repetition. rows and rows of ruffles have rhythm. there is rhythm in a gradual change if size or color. unmatched stripes the unmatched seam-lines upset the natural rhythm of the fabric design. jagged or jerky lines are seldom attractive.harmonyharmony is the pleasing arrangement of all the parts of a garment. harmony is achieved when the design elements work well together. the colors, lines, shapes, spaces, and textures look like they belong together. however, the total result is not perfect unless the design is also harmonious with you your size and shape, your coloring, and your personality.put it all together each of us has body characteristics that we cannot change. they help to make each of us look unique. some of us may have wide shoulders, narrow hips, or a bit more waistline than we would like. the key to improving your appearance is learning how to select clothing that brings your total look into balance. you can use your knowledge of the design elements and the design principles to enhance the way you look.study your size and shape, youre coloring, and even your face and hair. which fashion combinations are best for you? once you know about them and use them, you will show yourself to best advantage.the first phase of design is a brief which defines the garment type, age group, purpose, climate and price range which the designer should aim at. the later stages of the design process may lead to adoption of the design brief.the second phrase is research. the designer must of course be immersed in all the current means of communication of fashion ideas. the designer may also look for new ideas in historic costume, garments from many cultures, the forms of architecture, the dramatization of fashion in the performing arts, and the colors textures and shapes of plants and animals. new fabrics, colors or trims may provide inspiration.in the third phrase, the designers collection may begin with the selection of fabrics or the development of a theme through a series of sketches of front and back views. this is extended into a story board, as large as necessary, to display related colors, textures, trims and sketches which build up to a theme or story.fourthly, the shapes which the designer selects to represent concepts are infinitely varied. the overall silhouette is the outline. within the silhouette the designer creates lines, or seams, which define panels. the seams may represent vertical, horizontal, diagonal or curved lines. the lines may create symmetry or asymmetry between different parts of a garment. again the designer is concerned with proportion or the relationship between each part and the whole garment, for instance that between bodice and shirt. the designer also includes decisions about sleeve length and shape, cuffs, collar shape and type, yokes, pockets (patch, inset or those in a seam), design details such as belts and epaulettes, fastenings, braids and other trims, fabric treatment such as fringes, gathers, pleats, tucks smocking, shirring and quilting, the use of contrasting fabrics and surface decoration such as embroidery.this summary of the shapes with which the designer wrestles to create the initial concept of a style is intended to give only an impression of what starts the total process of design.traditionally, a new apparel design was created by asking the designer to make a watercolor sketch. if the fabric was having a pattern, there might also be a close-up colored sketch of it. many designs would be grouped together into a storyboard, which was then presented to managers for final decisions. next the designers that passed this stage went through a technical design step in which details were added and patterns made. after this step fabric might be cut and a sample made to see how it would look on a mannequin. if the new garment was a blouse, for example, the designer was not satisfied with the drape of the garment, the fit or the pattern, he or she might go back to square one. several iterations of these initial design steps could add weeks or months to the process before production began. although some haute couture or high-end apparel designers may still work in this manner, each year more garments are designed using computer technology. employing cad was particularly common among the largest business units. the use of modern design tools and information technology can collapse the design time so that managerial decision-making becomes the longest step in the process and even the time for that step can be shortened with information technology. the new way allows the designer to work creatively with a computer pen or brush to outline the sketch, which appears on a computer screen. the computer can “watercolor” the sketch and produce the storyboard for presentation. once past the first steps, these systems let designers drape fabric patterns on sketches or photographs of people on the computer screen. for example, sketches or photos can be draped with material of different colors and patterns. the size of the pattern can be changed and the visual image compared to get a sense of their appeal. and a colored ink-jet printing of the pattern can be made on basic plain fabric to help identify and demonstrate the desired colors in future discussions with textile mills.other development applications allow designers to begin with an actual garment and make appropriate changes to achieve the desired design or construction modifications. in this case, designers pin the garment to a special design table. a computer pen is used to outline a panel of the garment with a sequence of contact points. the computer, on command then connects the image of the points on its screen with a series of line segments that form the silhouette of the pattern piece. another computer command adds the seam allowance and, after the desired modifications have been made, a piece of the new design is created. when all the individual pieces of the garment have been modified and entered into the computer system, the final garment pattern is ready to be cut and sewn into a sample garment. numerically controlled fabric cutters are now available that can rapidly and accurately cut patterns from a single ply of cloth, removing the usual obstacle to sample garment-making. the cutting equipment is driven by the output of a pattern-grading and market making program.clothing has been manufactured in essentially the same way since the invention of the sewing machine in the mid-nineteenth century. most companies, especially small and underfinanced manufacturers, use old-fashioned, labor-intensive methods because they cannot afford to modernize their plants.computers are revolutionizing the apparel industry. medium-sized manufacturers are now able to afford to purchase systems to speed accounting and inventory control and to reduce production costs. several factors have made this possible during the last ten years. technology has improved, and the price of sophisticated systems has been reduced gradually. many companies now offer similar systems, and competition has also helped to reduce prices. foreign competition has forced domestic manufacturers to decrease production costs and reduce delivery time to capitalize on proximity to the market. increased flexibility resulting from the ability of these manufacturers to cut smaller lots and deliver rapidly allows stores to carry smaller inventories and makes a domestically made garment more desirable. importers also find computers assist in producing apparel offshore. they can design garments domestically and produce patterns on a computer system. when a garment sells well, it can be graded on the system and efficient markers are made by using accurate via a telephone hookup to a similar system. the garment can then be a manufactured in a foreign country to take advantage of low labor costs abroad. computer applications have been developed for almost every phase of the manufacturing process. manufacturers traditionally begin to modernize their factories by purchasing a system that will grade and make markers and patterns. when they find the savings ate substantial, more systems that can further speed production and reduce costs will be added to the basic computer.these computer-aided production applications includes: fabric and design applications, pattern-making systems, grading and marking systems, automatic cutting systems, garment distribution on the sewing floor, computerized sewing machines, and computerized inventory systems.many economists have recognized the role textile-and apparel-making play in developing countries. “in all parts of the world textiles have been one of the earliest offshoots of a peasant economy.” in countries that industrialized early such as england and the united states, as well as in the developing nations still plagued with “economic backwardness”, textiles and apparel made outside the household often constitute a significant step in early economic development. these home-grown industries may not necessarily provide the impetus for a major spurt in economic growth but they often set the stage for increasing industrialization.as less developed countries adopt industrialization policies, textiles and factory made apparel often become a focus of government stimulus. for example following world war , japan faced the destruction of much of its manufacturing base and focused on its textile and apparel industries to rebuild that base. in 1950, japanese textiles accounted for 24 percent of the countrys total shipments and 48 percent of exports. but these figures had declined to 5.2 percent and 4.8 percent, respectively, by 1980. in other words textiles and apparel declined in importance as japan became more industrialized and wage pressures increased. these industries have also played a significant role in the development process in india and china.more generally, the past thirty years have seen a significant shift in world exports of textiles and apparel toward developing market economies and away from developed economies.it is not hard to understand why textiles and garment-making have so frequently proven to be an early step in the industrialization process. before countries become industrialized, these activities are preformed in the household workplace. these sectors require very few workers with sophisticated skills. in apparel, skilled employees do cutting or repair sewing machines and probably constitute no more than 3 percent of the workforce. most sewing work is employee-paced, and supervision is simplified by piece-rate operations. capital requirement are small, and secondhand sewing machines are cheap and available.apparel production must be viewed as an integral part of a channel. a channel is the set of all firms and relationships that get a product to market, including the original acquisition of raw materials; production of the item at a manufacturing facility; distribution to a retailer; sale of the finished item to the customer; and any installation, repair, or service activities that follow the sale.a retail-apparel-textile channel typically includes the companies that manufacture synthetic fibers; produce, gather, the refine natural fibers; spin fiber into yarn; weave or knit yarn into fabric; manufacture buttons, zippers, and other garment components; and cut and sew fabric into garments. it also includes the retailers who sell garments to end consumers. the retail link often involves services or instructions to suppliers about fabric and garment design, packaging, distribution and order fulfillment, the channel dynamics have undergone substantial change during last during last decade.supply channels are in retailing practices will determine future competitive outcomes in retail-apparel-textile channels. these new practices-which we call, learn retailing-have compelled apparel producers to reorganize the manner in which they relate to retail customers, undertake distribution, forecast and plan production, and manage their supplier relations. lean retailing has also retailers. most important, because the apparel industry has become of the first to face the full brunt of the retail revolution, its story illuminates pervasive changes under way in the entire economy.what is marketing? marketing is a business philosophy or way of thinking about the firm the perspective of the customer or the potential customer. fashion firms depend upon customers making repeat purchases and the key to such loyalty is the satisfaction of customers needs with garments which are stylish, durable, and easy to care for, comfortable, perceived value for money and all the other criteria deemed relevant by the buyer. fashion marketers ask how typical is that mental picture and dose the “customer” belong to a group of buyers that form a profitable prospect for the company. notice that the notion of seeing the business from the perspective of the customer does not preclude concern for profit.indeed marketing comprises a range of techniques and activities, some of which are highly familiar to the general public. most people have encountered market