中国传统服饰(英文).ppt

ChineseTraditionalCostume ChineseTraditionalCostume HanDynastySuiandTangdynastiesSongandYuandynastiesMingandQingDynastiestheRepublicofChinaModernsociety Hanfu HanfuisknownasHanzhuang isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan whichsays thenmanycametothecourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan 后数来朝贺 乐汉衣服制度 Yi 衣 Anyopencross collargarment andwornbybothsexes Pao 袍 Anyclosedfull bodygarment wornonlybymen Ru 襦 Opencross collarshirt Shan 衫 Opencross collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyi Qun 裙 orchang 裳 Skirtforwomenandmen Ku 裤 Trousersorpants Thestructure Informaldress Typesincludetops yi andbottoms dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders andone piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes Semi formaldress chang 裳 apleatedskirtbixi 蔽膝 longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbelt zhaoshan 罩衫 longopenfrontedcoat Formaldress Xuanduan 玄端 averyformaldarkrobe equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi 深衣 alongfull bodygarmentCurving frontrobe 曲裾 diagonalbodywrappingPanlingpao 盤领袍 closed round collaredrobe mostlyusedforofficialdress CostumeinTangDynasty ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastyThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastyHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing Contents TangDynasty FromtheSuitotheTang theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak Thepoliticalstability economicdevelopment manufacturingandtextiletechnology andthefrequentforeignrelationscontributedtothedevelopmentofclothing Theclothinginthisperiodhadformedthemostfantasticchapterintheclothinghistory Features Thegeneralfeaturesofwomen scostumeinTangdynasty topless 上空装 袒胸装 exposedarmobliquecollarlargesleeveslongskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite thestructureisnatural gracefulandelegant andadornmentsaresplendid Features Thisisthepicture BeautiesWearingFlowers showingaladystrollinginthecourt Theladywaswearingaleno madeuppergarment high waistskirtandwithoutunderdress Thisiscalled topless TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments andeachsetauniqueinitself Features Ingeneral theTangwomen sdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories Thetraditionalruqun 襦裙 ordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina Features Thehufu oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad Cross Dressing namely girlsdressedasboys thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities Features HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing Frist inChinesehistory theTangDynastywasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally reachingitsheightinpoetry painting musicanddance Second basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques thevarietyqualityandquantityoftexitlematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing Third theTanggovementwastolerant andoftenappreciativeofreligions artandculturefromtheoutsideworld ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandSuiDynasty theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions Thankyouforyourlistening SongDynasty CostumeofSongDynasty 960 1279 wassimpleandnatural reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative impressingpeoplewithsimple pureandelegantfeelings Themaincharacteristicsofwomen sclothingarenarrow long thin 唐代文化是一种开放的类型 但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型 两者有很大的差异 宋代在政治上虽然开放民主 但由于 程朱理学 的思想禁锢 和对外政策的妥协退让 服饰文化不再艳丽奢华 而是简洁质朴 宋代强调 存天理 灭人欲 的观念 使人的个体对立性全部仰制了 对妇女的约束也推到了极点 所以宋代女装拘谨 保守 色彩淡雅恬静 宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚 还是一般的百姓 都爱穿着直领 对襟的褙子 因为既舒适得体 又显得典雅大方 SongDynasty TheclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance Menusuallyworegownswithroundcollars whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples Gauzepants SouthernSongdynasty Chayuanshan Fuzhou Fujianprovince Thispairofpantsismadefromextremelythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects goldingots swastikas coral rhinocerotichorns dharmawheels lozengesandflowers allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt SongDynasty Ithasalreadybeganfoot bindingintheSongdynastywhen sancunjinlian hascameintobeing 三寸金莲 YuanDynasty TheYuanDynasty 1279 1368 wastheamalgamationageofethnicgroupsinChina shistory andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedstyle themainstyleisrobe Thereislittledifferenceinrobebetweenmenandwomen However duetotheCharacteristicofnation thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle YuanDynasty 蒙古族女子 时兴戴一种很有特色的 罟罟冠 高约70 100厘米 其顶端扩大成平顶帽形 外面以红绢 金锦或毛毡包裱 YuanDynasty Zhisunfu 质孙服 上衣下裳 上紧下短 并在腰间加襞 b 积 肩背挂大珠 Zhisunfuwasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoancientsystems upperandlowershortgarmentswerepiecedtogether foldswereaddedtothewaistline andbigbeadswerehungonshouldersandtheback Emperorsandofficialsinallranksworesuchgarments andtheHanpeoplecalledthemastheYiseyi 一色衣 YuanDynasty YuanDynasty 元代蒙古族男子 戴一种用藤篾做的 瓦楞帽 有方圆两种样式 顶中装饰有珠宝 QingDynasty QingDynasty DuringtheQingDynasty clotheswereelegantandpoised 雍容华贵的 Peopleatthattimeworeclothesbefittingtheirsocialstatus officialranks 社会地位 andlifestyleaccordingtotheregulationsoftheQinggovernment Theornamentationofformal chaofu andsemi formal jifu courtrobesincludedthedragonmotiftogetherwithadecorativerepresentationoftheChineseconceptionofthecosmos Thedragonsymbolisedtheemperor knownastheSonofHeaven andpermissiontoweartherobewasgivenbyhim Thosewhopassedthecivilserviceexaminationsandattainedthestatusofagovernmentofficialwerealsograntedtheprivilegeofwearingcourtrobes Rankwasfurtherdistinguishedbyahierarchyofcolourandornamentation ThecheongsamisaneminentlyfeatureofQizhuangcostume whichstillhascertainimpactsonmoderncostume Especially alongwiththedevelopmentofChina acheongsamthatdemonstrateswomen scurvaceousbeautyhasbecometherepresentativegarmentoftheHanpeople asitcanshowthefemininityandtemperamentoforientalladies MainCharacteristics shirtisnotexposed 衫不露外 theright sidelapelofjunctiondecoratedwithbuttons 偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰 clothingplusclothing 衣外加衣 increasewaistcoatorjacket 增加坎肩或马褂 MainCharacteristics clothesdonotgetthewaistdown 衣服上下不取腰身 Rectangularoutline 外轮廓呈长方形 Horseshoe shapedsleevecoverhand 马蹄袖盖手 setrollingcraftdecoration 镶滚工艺装饰 flowerpotshoes 花盆鞋 TheChinesetraditionalcostumeCheongsam Contents ThedefinitionofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructureofcheongsamRepresentativefigures Definition Qipao Chipao isoneofthemosttypical traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen Alsoknownascheongsam itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm Theevolution Theevolution Theevolution Frog盘扣 Thestructure 立领 襟 衩 Mandarincollar立领 Lapel襟 Openings衩 embroidery 刺绣 Thestyle Sleeves widesleeves narrowandlongsleeves middlesleeves shortsleevesorsleeveless Jin 襟 roundJin straightJin slantingJin 斜襟 doubleJin 双襟 PipaJin 琵琶襟 andsoon Collar 领 highcollar lowcollar orcollarless Openings 开衩 highopenings lowopenings noopening longsleeves shortsleeves sleeveless Highcollar Collarless Lowcollar Representativefigures 张爱玲EileenChang 1920 1995 Awell knownwriter beaddictedtocheongsam Lifeisacolorfulgown coveredwithlice Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld 邓丽君 WherethereareChinesethereishervoice shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend Inthefilm IntheMoodforLove 似水年华 MaggieCheung 张曼玉 changemorethan23setsofqipao afterthemovierelease Itsetoffarushof cheongsamhot Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen 玉脂白 Expo 展览会 2010ShanghaiChina CheongsamforMissManners 青花瓷 宝蓝 Thankyou 现代民族服饰 现在 民族服饰是指各民族本身文化中独有特色的服饰 也可以称为地方服饰或民俗服饰 由于我国民族众多 我今天重点介绍一下苗族服饰和白族服饰 苗族服饰是我国所有民族服饰中最为华丽的服饰 既是中华文化中的一朵奇葩 也是历史文化的瑰宝 ModernEthnicClothing Nationaldressistheuniquecultureofthenation sownuniquecostumes canalsobecalledlocaldressorfolkcostumes Becauseofthemanyethnicgroupsinourcountry IwillfocusontheMiaoco