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Selecting a Rotary Garden Tiller The right rotary tiller can make the job of gardening much easier, but if you choose the wrong tiller for the job, it can make your job more difficult. Tillers range in size from small hand-held models to those weighing several hundred pounds, with corresponding differences in capacity. There are several factors to consider in selecting the best tiller for your job. Size Several companies offer small, hand-held rotary tillers, typically with 2-cycle engines. These little tillers have star-shaped blades instead of separate tines. They are suitable for light-duty tilling such as cultivating small vegetable or flower gardens. They are narrow and can get into tight places. They will not till deeply, nor will they handle much surface trash. Other garden tillers range from 3-5 hp front-tine models to 8-10 hp rear-tine models. Some semi-commercial rear-tine models are even more powerful. The larger units have tilling widths of 20-26 inches and can cut 6-8 inches deep under ideal conditions. Front or Rear Tines Rotary tillers can have the tines in front of the wheels (front-tine) or behind the wheels (rear tine). The two styles overlap in size (horsepower and tilling width). The wheels on front-tine models are usually not powered, but the wheels on rear-tine models usually are. The tines are usually covered with a shield on a rear-tine tiller, but exposed on a front-tine tiller. Larger rear-tine tillers will have the ends of the tine assembly as well as the top shielded. Most rear-tine tillers provide a flap or drag at the rear to keep feet out of the tines and to level the tilled soil. The powered wheels on the rear-tine tillers help hold the tiller back and provide a more uniform speed, while you will have to control the speed of front-tine models by brute force. Depth control is generally easier with a rear-tine tiller since the depth control drag bar is generally effective. On front-tine models a drag bar is usually provided, but most depth control comes from how you hold the tiller. With a front-tine tiller, it is almost always necessary to walk right behind the tiller in the freshly tilled ground while fighting to control the machine. With a rear-tine tiller, it is often possible to walk to one side, controlling the tiller with one hand, and thus avoid walking in the tilled soil. Soil tilth is almost always better with a rear-tine tiller. Rear-tine models are more expensive but well worth the extra cost. Drive Type Tiller tines can be driven by a shaft or a chain. The clutching mechanism can be an actual clutch or clutching can be accomplished by slackening a belt drive. Many rear-tine tillers will have two or more forward speeds as well as reverse. In many cases, it is necessary to hold the reverse control in place while going backward, but some tillers allow you to shift into reverse and operate just as you would in forward. The latter design is less safe. Forward or Reverse Tine Rotation Most tillers have the tines moving in a forward direction; in other words, the tines rotate in the same direction as the wheels. Some tillers turn the tines in reverse. The manufacturers who offer reverse tines claim that the reverse rotation is more effective at breaking up sod; however, reverse tine rotation should be avoided from the safety standpoint. With forward-rotating tines, if the tines grab on a root, rock, stump, etc., the tiller will jump forward - thus away from you. With reverse rotation, if the tines grab on anything, the tiller will jump backward - with the rotating tines coming at your feet and legs! Also, if you are maneuvering in tight quarters - in a fence corner or next to a building the tiller can come back at you, pin you against the obstacle and injure you. Forward rotation is much safer, and you should not purchase or use a reverse-rotation model. Reverse tine rotation should be used only on tractor-mounted tillers. Quality Tillers, like other lawn and garden equipment, are available in different levels of quality from different manufacturers. A quality tiller can easily cost two to three times as much as a comparably sized cheap tiller. Since tillers are work hard under adverse conditions, a high quality model is generally a good investment. Ergonomics There are big differences in the ergonomics of tillers. Some tillers that at first seem to be similar may, in fact, have different ergonomics. Some clutches are much easier to use than others, some reverse mechanisms are much easier to engage than others, some depth controls are easy to move and some require tools and a struggle, some operator presence controls (OPCs) are easy to use and some are not. Try out a tiller or talk to an owner before buying a tiller. It is hard to evaluate ergonomics while looking at a tiller in a store (or a catalog); it takes personal experience to separate the good designs from the awkward designs. Remember, if you have a small garden you may be better off with a good garden spade and a scuffle hoe, and thus eliminate the cost and maintenance hassles of a tiller. If you really do need a tiller, a rear-tine model is much easier to use and does a better job. A small, hand-held tiller may be satisfactory for small jobs. Use of a Rotary Garden Tiller Whether you buy, rent or borrow a tiller, you will find that it has many uses. In some countries, particularly in Southeast Asia where farms are small, a rotary tiller is a general purpose farm tool. It can be a general purpose garden tool for you. Attachments Some tillers can be fitted with attachments to do jobs other than garden tilling. Some of the small hand-held models can be equipped with dethatching tines or rotary brushes. Some of the larger rear-tine tillers can handle a snow/dirt blade or a middle buster (lister); and can have the entire tiller assembly replaced with a sicklebar mower, a shredder/grinder or even a generator. These attachments can be useful, but may not work as well as separate machines. You have to decide whether this capability will be useful for you. Preparing the Garden Rotary tillers can be used for primary tillage (working up the garden in the spring), secondary tillage (breaking up clods and preparing the soil for planting) and for cultivation while the crop is growing. Under ideal conditions, one pass with the tiller may provide both primary and secondary tillage, leaving a good seedbed. Under other conditions, multiple passes may be needed to chop up existing vegetation and then prepare the seedbed. If vegetation is heavy, it is often helpful to make one or two passes and then leave it alone until after the next rain before tilling again. This process will help the vegetation to break down. Primary tillage requires the slowest speed (lowest gear) available, but you can sometimes use a higher gear for secondary tillage. You should always run your tiller at full engine rpm and then shift up or down as needed. Garden Cultivation Tillers can be effective at cultivating around crops, and the cultivation can usually be done at a higher ground speed than you would use for primary or secondary tillage. Be careful to use a very shallow depth setting when cultivating to avoid damaging crop roots. It is best to avoid walking on the cultivated ground since weeds will germinate and/or re-establish better in your footprints. Growing and Incorporating Organic Matter A rotary tiller can contribute to the health of your garden soil by incorporating cover crops and green manure crops. In our climate, it is difficult to increase organic matter permanenly, but you can improve structure and tilth by incorporating vegetation and/or compost. A tiller can also be used in planting cover crops. After a seedbed is prepared, you can broadcast seed and then run the tiller over the ground at high speed and minimum depth to cover the seeds. A tiller is most effective at covering larger seeds such as peas. Small cover crop seeds such as ryegrass may be covered too deeply by a tiller; raking or dragging is more effective for small seeds. Middlebusting Probably the most useful accessory for your tiller is a wide sweep or middlebuster (sometimes called a furrower). This tool attaches to the rear of the tiller (with the tines still in place) and allows you to dig a shallow furrow. Two adjacent passes with a sweep or middlebuster will throw up a raised bed, which can be important in many parts of Louisiana. You can then level the top of the raised bed and plant your crops there. The furrow from a single pass is ideal for planting Irish potatoes. You can then run the sweep beside the row to cover the potato seed and again later to throw soil up on the plants. You can throw soil on sweet corn roots the same way. Trenching Tillers also have uses outside of the garden. A tiller can be helpful when digging a ditch or trench. Just run the tiller over the ditch lineto loosen the soil, then shovel out the loosened soil and repeat until you reach the desired depth. Tillers are useful garden helpers. It is difficult to manage a large garden without one. Proper use can make your gardening experience more pleasant and productive. Rotary Tiller Safety and Maintenance To get the best performance and longevity from your tiller, you need to maintain it properly. You also need to be aware of some of the dangers involved in using a tiller and take steps to protect yourself and others. Engine Maintenance You will need to maintain the engine on your tiller carefully. Because your tiller operates in dust and dirt, oil and filter changes are more critical than for lawn mowers and most other lawn and garden machines. At the very minimum, you should change the oil after 50 hours of use or at least once a year. If the oil looks dirty, change it more often. Keep any grease fittings properly lubricated. Check the oil in the gearcase or chaincase, and add as needed. Your air cleaner will need to be cleaned or replace often - perhaps as often as after 1-2 hours of use in dusty conditions. Occasionally, you will need to blow or brush the dust and dirt out of the cooling fins on the engine and flywheel. Tiller Maintenance One of the most important things you can do for your tiller is to keep it clean. Wash the tiller, particularly the tines and housing, after each use (be careful not to spray water on a hot engine!). For continued effectiveness, you will need to replace the tines when they become worn down. You may occasionally need to adjust the control linkages. See your owners manual for instructions. Your tires should be maintained at the recommended pressure. End-of-season Storage Like many pieces of lawn and garden equipment, tillers are used seasonally and then stored for the winter. It is a good idea to change the oil before storing them. You should either run the gasoline tank dry or fill it with fresh gas containing a stabilizer. Check the spark plug and regap or replace if needed. If you are storing the tiller for several months, it is a good idea to squirt a teaspoonful or so of clean engine oil into the spark plug hole and then pull the starter rope to rotate the crankshaft a time or two before replacing the spark plug. Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the spark plugs. Many small engines are made of aluminum, and it is very easy to strip the threads when tightening the spark plug. Clean or replace the air filter. Check the oil in the gearcase or chaincase and refill (or replace if dirty). Be sure the tiller is clean before storage, then store it out of the weather. Be sure it is not stored in direct sunlight, because the UV light will degrade the tires. Safety Tiller tines are aggressive! They can chew up a hand or foot just as easily as a patch of bermudagrass. Stay away from rotating tines! Keep bystanders, particularly children, away from tillers. Watch out for roots, stumps, rocks, buried pipes, etc. that might cause the tiller to grab and jump. Even if it jumps away from you, it can cause a sprained back. A 200-pound tiller leaping forward can really jerk an operator. Avoid areas where electric or gas lines might be buried. Most tillers now have operator presence controls (OPCs) which consist of a lever or handle that must be held in place while operating or the engine will die (or the tines stop rotating). Dont try to defeat the OPC on a tiller. It is there to protect you. Remember, your tiller works hard under some dirty conditions. You will need to be conscientious about maintenance to overcome the effects of the tilling environment. Remember, too, that tillers are potentially dangerous. Treat them with respect. 选择小型农用旋耕机 选择了合理的旋耕机能使你的田间作业事半功倍,相反,如果你选择了不合适的旋耕机,那么你的田间工作只能事倍功半了。 旋耕机的尺寸系列从手扶式小型农用旋耕机到几百磅的大型农用旋耕机种类繁多,并且各有各的用途,你应当从多方面考虑选择对你最有帮助的旋耕机。 尺寸 很多公司提供了小型、手提式、 及典型 2-循环发动机旋耕机,这些小型旋耕机用星形刀片代替齿状刀片。它们适合轻负载的耕种,例如,在小菜园或花园里耕作。它们耕作时既不会耕太深也不扬起很大的尘土。其它的小型旋耕机系列从3-5马力的前置式到 8-10马力的后置式旋耕机不一。一些半贸易型后置式旋耕机的马力甚至更大。大型旋耕机的耕宽为 20-26英寸,并且在理想条件下耕深能达到 6-8英寸。 前置或后置式旋耕机 旋耕机有的弯刀在轮子前面,有的在轮子后面,这两种样式在参数(马力和耕宽)上重叠。轮子在前刀轴上的通常动力不大,而在后刀轴上的动力却很大。弯刀经常被 后置的防护罩遮挡,相反,前置式却暴露在外面。大型后置式旋耕机将刀柄像防护罩一样集中在一起,大部分后置式旋耕机带有防护罩和拖板,以防止腿脚受伤或泥土溅出。当你通过蛮力来控制前置式旋耕机后退时,后置式旋耕机刀轴上的动力轮帮助你拉着机器以一个恒定的速度后退。 耕深的控制对于后置式旋耕机来说非常容易,它通过控制拉杆来有效的控制耕深。前置式旋耕机也有拉杆,但是耕深往往要你自己来完成。用前置式旋耕机,你需要努力的控制机器并且走在合适的地方,以免踩到刚耕过的土地。用后置式旋耕机,需要你走在一边单手扶着它,这样是为了避免踩 到刚耕过的土地上,用后置式耕过的土地比前置式耕过的要好。多花点钱买一台贵一点的后置式旋耕机是很划算的。 驱动类型 旋耕机的弯刀是通过联轴器传动到刀轴或链上的动力驱动的。很多后置式旋耕机有 2个或更多的前进或倒退速度,在很多情况下,旋耕机要前进时必须靠人操纵倒退,但是很多旋耕机有换档装置,可以换成反转就像前进时一样,但是后一种设计部适很安全。 弯刀的正转与反转 很多旋耕机只能向前进方向移动,换言之,弯刀的旋转方向与轮子旋转方向一致。一些旋耕机能把弯刀旋转方向改变。那些能提供反转弯刀的制造商宣称反向转动对打碎草地 很有效,然而,反向转动应该避免安全的问题。用正向旋转弯刀时,如果碰到石块、树根、残茬等,旋耕机可能避开。 用反转式旋耕机时,如遇到什么东西,旋耕机将会弹回伤到你的你的腿脚,也或许你在一个较窄的地方或有篱笆的地方或墙角,旋耕机或许能弹回来伤着你。正转旋耕机较安全,你不必非买一个带反转的旋耕机,翻转式的旋耕机只用拖拉机牵引的形式。 质量 旋耕机与其它农具一样随制造商的不同它们的质量也不同。一台质量高的旋耕机,通常是同尺寸的普通旋耕机的价钱的两到三倍。用于相同的工作条件下,一台高质量的旋耕机通常是一项不错的投资项 目。 人机工程学 旋耕机的人机工程学有很大的不同。一些旋耕机一眼看上去很相似,但实际上由不同人机工程学的运用,一些是扶手好用,一些是反转比其它的好用,一些是深度控制器比其它的好用,一些是现场控制器比其它的好用。在你买之前最好能试一下或询问一下又旋耕机的人。在商场购买很难评价一台旋耕机的性能,它只能凭借着个人经验去识别好的设计和不好的设计。 记着如果你有块小田地你最好用铁锹或锄头,这样既可以避免花销又可避免麻烦的维护工作。如果你觉得你需要一台旋耕机,买后置式的它很容易操作并且耕地也很好,小型手扶的旋耕 机适合小块地的工作。 使用小型农用旋耕机 无论你是买、租还是借一台旋耕机,你都发现它的用途很广。在很多国家,尤其是在农场很小的东南亚,一台小型旋耕机是用途广泛的农场工具,它也能成为用途广泛的田园农具。 附件 一些旋耕机能与附件配合做很多工作,比园林翻土机更有效。一些手扶式旋耕机能够和弯刀等装配在一起。一些大型后置式耕作机具能带动中间破土犁,并且整个旋耕机的组合能集割草机、碎土机甚至是发电机的功能于一身,虽然这些附件很有用,但是它们工作起来可 能稍逊色于单独的成型机。你应该注意一下这些附件的功用是否适合你。 准备田园 旋耕机用于初耕(春天在土地上耕种)、复耕(打碎土块并且准备耕种)及种庄稼时的耕作,在理想条件下旋耕机一次耕作可拥有初耕、复耕及平整的垄,在其它条件下,复合耕作或许需要去去除存在的草本植物,然后呈现出垄。 假如草本植物旺盛的话,来两次的耕作很有益
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