Design and Product Development.ppt

DesignandProductDevelopment 1 Historyoffashiondesign ThefirstfashiondesignerwhowasnotsimplyadressmakerwasCharlesFrederickWorth 1826 1895 Beforetheformerdrapersetuphismaisoncouture fashionhouse inParis clothingdesignandcreationwashandledbylargelyanonymousseamstresses andhighfashiondescendedfromthatwornatroyalcourts Worth ssuccesswassuchthathewasabletodictatetohiscustomerswhattheyshouldwear insteadoffollowingtheirleadasearlierdressmakershaddone Thetermcouturier 女设计师 wasinfactfirstcreatedinordertodescribehim Itwasduringthisperiodthatmanydesignhousesbegantohireartiststosketchorpaintdesignsforgarments Theimagesalonetoclientsweremuchmorecheaplythanbyproducinganactualsamplegarmentintheworkroom Iftheclientlikedthedesign theyordereditandtheresultinggarmentmademoneyforthehouse Thus thetraditionofdesignerssketchingoutgarmentdesignsinsteadofpresentingcompletedgarmentsonmodelstocustomersbeganasaneconomy 2 Thedefinitionoffashiondesign Fashiondesignistheappliedartdedicatedto 用于 clothingandlifestyleaccessoriescreatedwithintheculturalandsocialinfluencesofaspecifictime 3 Designingacollection 系列 PlanningacollectionPredictingtrendsChoosingathemeDesigningagarmentProduction 产品生产 Distributing 销售 Everycollectionisverycarefullyresearchedandplannedsothatalltheitemsinitcomplement 互补 eachother andhavetheparticularfashionlookwhichthecompanyisknownfor Oneofthehardestskillsafashiondesignerhastomasterispredictingfuturetrends Todothis theylookatwhatthefashiondirectionshavebeeninpreviousseasons keepaneyeonwhatothersinthefashionbusinessaredoing andreadfashionforecastingmagazines Theyalsorelyonknowledgeoftheirowncustomerstoseewhichstylessucceededandwhichwerelesspopularinpastseasons Perhapsmostimportantly designersusetheirimaginationstocomeupwithnewideas Theyoftenchooseathemetoprovideinspiration Thethemeofacollectioncanbeaperiodinhistory aforeignplace arangeofcolors atypeoffabric anythingwhichhasastrongvisualimpact 4 Areasofwork Therearethreemainwaysinwhichdesignerscanwork Workingfreelance Freelancedesignersworksforthemselves Theyselltheirworktofashionhouses directtoshops ortoclothingmanufacturers Thegarmentsbearthebuyer slabel WorkingIn house In housedesignersareemployedfull timebyonefashioncompany Theirdesignsarethepropertyofthatcompany andcannotbesoldtoanyoneelse Settingupacompany Fashiondesignersoftensetuptheirowncompanies Alotofdesignersfindthismoresatisfyingthanworkingforsomeoneelse astheirdesignsaresoldundertheirownlabel 5 Fashiondesignaroundtheworld onlyfivenationshaveestablishedtrulyinternationalreputationsinfashiondesign ThesecountriesareFrance theUnitedKingdom theUnitedStatesofAmerica Italy andJapan Belowarebriefdescriptionsofthefashionindustryineachcountry Frenchfashiondesign MostFrenchfashionhousesareinParis whichisthecapitalofFrenchfashionandoftheworld Traditionally Frenchfashionischicandstylish definedbyitssophistication cut andsmartaccessories Americanfashiondesign ThemajorityofAmericanfashionhousesarebasedinNewYork althoughtherearealsoasignificantnumberinLosAngeles whereasubstantialpercentageofclothingmanufacturedintheUSisactuallymade andChicago whichwasonceacenterofAmericanfashion Americanfashiondesignisdominatedbyaclean cut casualstyle reflectingtheathletic health consciouslifestylesofmanyAmericancity dwellers Japanesefashiondesign MostJapanesefashionhousesareinTokyo TheJapaneselookislooseandunstructured oftenresultingfromcomplicatedcutting colourstendtothesombre 阴暗 andsubtle 微妙 andrichlytexturedfabrics Fashionjournalismandtheinternet FrenchELLEthefirstonlinefashionmagazine FashionWindowsisamongthesepioneersandhascelebratedits10thanniversaryin2007Basthecompanyburnedthrough 135millionin18months SHOWandS FashionReportersBeautyFlow FashionDesigners NatureoftheWork Clothingdesignerscreateandhelpproducemen women andchildrenapparel includingcasualwear suits sportswear formalwear Footweardesignershelpcreateandproducedifferentstylesofshoesandboots Accessorydesignershelpcreateandproduceitemssuchashandbags belts hats Thedesignprocessfrominitialdesignconcepttofinalproductiontakesbetween18and24months Roleofthedesigner Hign fashionor name designersThefullrangeofdecisionsofafashionhouseestablishingtheimageandcreatingdesignsforthecompanyStylist designersmanufacturersandadaptthedesignsofothers Designbyrenie DavidDownton Dior2005年春季童装 05PaulSmith伦敦秋冬时装发布会 提到本季的灵感 PaulSmith说是源自自己的18岁女儿和他的朋友 她们参加工作面试时 她们喜爱从妈妈的衣柜中寻找适当的衣服来搭配 因此带有拿破仑帝政风格的高腰线洋装 短身斗篷 男装版本的合身长裤 紧身瘦腿裤 彩色毛料紧身上衣 加上PaulSmith一贯注重的手工缝制长裤 阿尔盖菱纹的针织上衣 水洗处理的丝绒花朵刺绣洋装等 整体都是非常的PaulSmithStyle 无疑是18岁小女生疯狂的最爱 芭比娃娃时装秀Dior迪奥08 09秋冬女装系列 二 用芭比娃娃喜爱的糖果色把Dior打造成了这次巴黎时装周上最耀眼的主角 性感和包裹 长和短 休闲和正统 女强人和芭比娃娃 巴黎时装周上充满了矛盾和对立 或许上一场秀还性感得让人直流鼻血 下一场就变得严丝合缝 甚至让你感到有些压抑 服装样片设计是服装设计的重要环节 不同服装CAD中该部分的思想基本相同 即利用鼠标 数字化仪代替画笔 利用显示器代替纸进行设计 尽管计算机辅助的样片设计许多方面提高了工作效率 但仍然是服装设计中最为耗时的一项工作 客观地讲传统手工样片设计与计算机样片设计仅仅是工具的改变和进步 尽管如省 褶 浪峰芬等特殊元素的生成速度远高于手工 其设计的基本过程仍然没有改变 计算机仍然无法捕捉设计师的全部思想 它没法减少样片设计中的某个具体步骤 仅仅是简化了该步骤而已 推档系统是服装CAD技术应用最早的软件产品 它淋漓尽致的反映了计算机在服装辅助设计方面的优越性 样片推档是设计师所面临的最为繁琐枯燥的工作 也是传统手工服装设计过程中最为费时的一个环节 大量重复性的计算依靠人工完成是极易出错而且极为耗时的 利用计算机的高速运算能力和无以伦比的精确性 基本上解决了这一长期困挠企业的问题 不论用什么方法利用计算机进行推档操作 都比传统的手工推档更加科学 其效率和精确度也更高 借助于计算机进行推档 使得以前用天来计算的工作量 现在可以用分钟或秒来计算 是计算机辅助设计提高生产力最典型的例子 排料是计算机辅助设计另一种典型应用 计算机不断将当前的工作结果或状态告知操作人员 操作人员将根据这些信息利用软件工具不断调整排料方法 最终达到理