16.西班牙之魂.doc

In the courtyard of Madrids Royal Palacethe Kings Guard recalls an era ofregal splendor, privilegeand might in Spains pastViva!But the saga of Juan Carlos isdistinctly modernWhen he became king in 1 97 5he took the reins of governmentfrom Europes last fascist dictatorHe was to inherit a land touched byforces unlike the rest of Europe. . .a land chosen by destiny to become thegreatest power on earth . . .then doomed to lapse into decades ofdecline and stagnationIn the extraordinary reign of Juan CarlosSpain has leapt into the 20th centuryUn, dos, y. . .But as new ideasconcepts, and values flood inthe Spanish people cherish the waysthat are uniquely theirsMindful of the grandeur of their pasteven as they create a new unknown futurethey nurture and treasure the timelesstraditionsthat illuminate the Soul of SpainSpain. Dramatic, mysterious, complexGreatness and tragedy resonate inits soulIt gave the world the essence ofchivalry in Don Quixote. . .the quintessence of crueltyin the lnquisitionLong after the rest of EuropeindustrializedSpain remained poor and agrarianHereditary noblemen and wealthy familiesstill owned much of the landcontrolled it by the laws and privilegesof their classlnward lookingthe people proudly clung to theirancient heritage, customs, and beliefsWho are they?Where did they come from?What shaped the Spanish soul?Lying astride the Atlantic andMediterranean on the lberian PeninsulaSpain has been called that countryripped from hot Africasoldered crudely to inventive EuropeFirst settled by wandering tribesfrom Europe and North Africait would be colonized by PhoeniciansCarthaginians, and GreeksBy 1 9 B.C.the triumphant Romans dominated thepeninsulaThey would leave their indelible imprintof architecture, law, and languageLater, Roman missionaries wouldintroduce ChristianityLed by Arab warriorsin 7 1 1 Berbers from North Africa sweptinto SpainSoon their rule and Muslim religiongripped the landWorking side by sideMuslim, Christianand Jewish scholars relit the torch oflearningthat led Europe out of the Dark AgesCordoba, capital of Muslim Spainbecame Europes most cultured cityboasting half a million inhabitantswhen London and Paris were only villagesBut through the eight centuries ofMuslim rulethe Christians waged war to reconquerthe landuntil only Granada survived as aMuslim strongholdIn 1 492 the last Muslim kingsurrendered his crown to the Catholicsovereigns Ferdinand and lsabellaThrough war and lnquisition Spain wouldexpel not only the Muslimsbut all Jews who refused to be baptizedSeeking a westward route tothe riches of lndiaFerdinand and lsabella would provideChristopher Columbus with financialsupportOn the 33rd day of his voyageColumbus landed in the New Worldand claimed it in the name of theSpanish crownSpain would conquer huge empiresin the AmericasGold wrested from native peoples wouldfinance wars in faraway Europe. . .and Spain would become the worldsmightiest powerBut two centuries laterits navy defeatedits empire in shamblesSpains era of supremacy was overA long eclipse had begunWith the Second Republic tornby political turmoilSpain is plunged into bloody civil warAn alliance of army officers,monarchistsand the Catholic Church joins thefascists in rebellionThey are supported byHitler and Mussoliniin a conflict that becomes a dressrehearsal for the Second World WarThe death toll from combatand executions will costthe nation half a million livesWith the fall of MadridGeneral Francisco Francocommander of thevictorious Nationalist troopsassumes powers greater than those ofany monarch in Spains historyNationalist, rightist, and authoritarianthe dictator Franco embarks on 36 yearsof repressive controlWhen World War I I rages across Europethe wily Franco manages to keep Spainout of the conflictThe role of women remains staticcircumscribed by church traditionand male dominationPhysically shattered and spirituallycrippled in the long aftermath of warthe nation will need years to healFranco orders construction of theValley of the Fallento commemorate the Civil War deadAlthough named E1 CaudilloThe Leader for lifehe knows that someday he too willfind his final resting place hereBelieving a monarchy would bestserve SpainFranco selects as his successorthe grandson of the last kingBorn in exileJuan Carlos first set footon Spanish soil at age tenHis fatherlegitimate heir to the thronehad acquiesced to Francos desireto educate the boyThe prince would spend four yearsin the Army, Navyand Air Force academiesattend universityand complete his studies at a numberof government ministeriesThe nation observes the end of an eraFor nearly four decades Franco had madeall of Spains important decisionsJuan Carlos, rarely seen exceptin Francos shadowwas perceived to be molded in his imageWould the nation again erupt in rebellion?Juan Carlos swore his allegianceto the constitution and the peopleDesde la motion en el recuerdo Franco,viva elrey!Viva!Viva Espagna!Viva!Perceptive and intelligenthe had privately concluded Spainmust embark on a new course secretlyhe had prepared himself for itTo everyones surprisehe deftly led his people fromdictatorship to democracyA king who pays taxes lives modestlyand is an avid sports enthusiasthe soon became the most popular manin the countryHis greatest test came in 1 981when parliament was invaded byCivil Guardscommanded by a right-wing colonelAs an amazed public watched on televisionthe colonel called for a return toa Francoist regimeWorking through the nightas parliament was held hostagethe king obtained pledges of loyaltyfrom his principal military leadersand quelled the attempted coupHis reassuring address to the peopleincluded these wordsThe Crow. . .cannot tolerate actionsattempting to interrupt by forcedemocratic processUnder his leadership a vital and dynamicNew Spain has become an economicsuccess storyThe nation is an eager new member ofthe European Communitylts thirty-nine million citizenshave a higher standard of living thanever in their historyAnd there is freedomof religion, of expressionThe repression of old has evaporatedA burst of growth has transformedthe nationEvery year Spain attracts 50 milliontouristsmore than the countrys total populationThey bring billions of dollarsnew ideas and customsThe Spaniardsonce Europes poor relationshave become conspicuous consumersBut behind the facade of modern Spainechoes of an older way of life stillresonateIn the same year that Franco diedso did Don Fernando de la Camaraone of the wealthy landowners whohad supported the dictatorCamars presence can still be feltin the Seville apartmentwhere his heir, Rocio, livesShe is now head of her familysagricultural businessAs her father didRocio grows wheat and sunflowers andraises bulls to fight in the ringEvery year the new calves are roundedup for brandingIn this tough and traditionallymale-oriented atmosphereRocio has found acceptanceOf course its harder being a womanbut society is changing and nowadaysthere are no real problems,big problemsIf I were a manId wrestle those calvesbut as a woman, I cantBut there are many important thingsto do on a ranchwhere being a woman makes no differenceat allDiego Reina has been employedby the Camaras for more than 20 yearsHe helped raised Rocioand when her father died continuedas foremanHe has had other job offersbut he respects and admires RocioHe says he will never leave.Unlike his peers of 25 years agoDiego receives an adequate incomehas his own houseand can look forward to retirementwith social securityToday Diego has the right to votebut like many othersstill prefers the old waysPersonally, I felt more at ease underFranco than nowNobody bothered anybodyYou could bed down in the fields anywhereNow you cantIn the last few years before Franco diedlife was peaceful in the countryWe ate well in the country and we couldsave a peseta or twoWho saves anything nowadays?Whether Juan, Pedroor Antonio is in chargethe land is the sameWe live off the land and die forthe landIts always the same, always the sameDiegos land is AndaluciaIn this southernmost region of Spainunder a brilliant sun and skyolive trees and vineyards have thrivedfor thousands of yearsOnly here in all the worldin a small area of chalkymoisture-retaining soilis true sherry wine producedIn 1 7 30a French farmer founded a sherry dynastyin the town of Jerez de la FronteraToday, the heirs of Pedro Domecqare the second largest producers ofsherry in the worldpart of an elite referred to assherry baronsStill, even at age 7 7Jose lgnacio Domecq enjoys drivingto work on a second-hand motorbikepurchased from his chauffeurAt the manor house that overlookssome of the Domecq vineyardshe meets his eldest sonThe manor was built around anancient towerused during the Middle Ages to sendsmoke signals to Africaonly 65 miles awayIt provides a vantage pointfrom which the Domecqs can conferabout the 4,300 acres of vineyardsthey cultivate hereOne day the younger Jose lgnaciowill take control of their wineand brandy empire is Spain andthe AmericasDomecq produces 1 0 million litersof sherry annuallyThe most vital element in creating adistinctive sherry is the human factor. . .specifically, the human noseIn the bodegas where sherry maturesthe Domecqs exercise the delicate skillwhich has made the family masters ofthe art of wine making for 250 yearsWe maintain our standardization ofqualitythroughout the different generationsMy father is known in the wine world . . . . .for the nosenot only because of the size of itthat is you have seen rather bigbut because hes considered one of the. . . . . most important specialists in Europein the science of wineThe unique quality of sherryderives from the solera systemNew sherry is blended with more maturesherry to take on its characteristicsFortified with grape brandy andrepeatedly blendedit ages in oak casks until it reachesmaturityThe most venerable bodega holds casks ofrate sherry dedicated to the famousAmong them is one once reservedfor George lVKing of EnglandA cask was dedicated to Napoleon in 1 81 2And after the battle of TrafalgarAdmiral Lord Nelsons body was shippedto Englandperfectly preservedin a cask of brandy and sherryAt his nearby estateone of the 500 relatives who areshareholdersin the Domecq corporation indulgesin another family passionFor 20 years Alvaro Domecqlike his father before himwas famed for his prowess in the Spanishart of bullfighting on horsebackToday, he raises fine Andalucian horsesand hulls to fight in the ringBullfighting was once the leisurepastime of gentlemen on horsebackFarmhands assisted with their capesModern bullfighting performedby professionals on foot beganonly two centuries agoBullfights are the highlight of theannual April Fair in nearby JerezFor this special event six localbreeders each enter a superior bullin the competition for Best of the YearDomecq is heresharing the crowds anticipationand hoping his bull will bring honorto the familys reputation as breedersVictor Mendesthe matador who will face that bullprepares for his test as he dons thetraditional suit of lightsThe bullring managerand other well-wisherscome bearing the only protectionthey can offer Suertegood luckAs his sword handler makesfinal adjustmentsMendes reflects on the trial aheadIts now a fight or game between therational and the irrationalif is possible to arrive to the deaththe death of the bullBut sometimes, the death of the manTo the Spaniard the bullfightis not a gamebut a revered ritualnot a sport but an artlts origins can be traced to pagansacrificesand to ancient Greek and Roman gamesIn its beauty, glorification of braveryand disdain for deaththe bullfight embodies traditional valuesof Spanish lifeMore than spectaclethis is mythic theaterin which the drama of life and deathis reenactedculminating in the predictablebut by no means certaindeath of a noble beast.In recent years it has lost popularityand there is increasing disquietamong a minority of Spaniards aboutthe morality of their national fiestaBut for someit remains an irreplaceable threadin the fabric of their heritageAs the afternoon turns to eveningcrowds begin to gatherat the fairgroundsIn this weeklong celebration women weartraditional Andalucian dressesfriends meet, sip sherry,make music, and danceThe region of Extremadurain western Spainhas always been harsh and ungivingFor decades Azuagalike many small agriculturaland mining townshas slowly but steadily lostits populationThe future looks bleak unless youngpeople can be persuaded to stayAmong the few professionals here is ahusband-and-wife team of doctorsassigned to the local clinicTheir 1 6-year-old daughter, Aliciafeels trapped in the stifling atmosphereThis is a small townThere isnt much for me to doIm not sure whether so stay or leaveIll probably leavebut I still havent decidedThe lack of entertainmentcareer opportunitieseven participation in sportsall make teenagers yearn for greaterfreedomThe old ways hold no allurefor the young generationWhen Alicias parents accept job offersin Sevilleshe is thrilled to go with themShe will become one of the thousandswho seek new lives in big citiesSpains new constitutioncarefully spells out the equality ofopportunity for men and womenAfter high schoolAlicia hopes to join the growing ranksof working womenThen after a couple of yearswhen Ive mastered that jobIll study business managementand after that join a big companyId work my way to the topand eventually have my own companyAs a businesswomanId travelId like to travel a lot in my workToday, many women are enteringthe ranks of leadershipin governmentpolitics, and commerceThe unemployment rate of women istwice that of menBut like Aliciathey pursue an alluring dreamSpains greatest contemporary poetGarcia Lorcadescribed flamenco as deeper thanthe heart of the one creating itand the voice singing itIt comes from the first soband the first kissFlamenco was born in Andaluciawhen Arabic and Spanish music mingledwith the songs of the JewsThe gypsies were to abopt it andin their wanderingscarry it throughout SpainFrancisca SadornilLa Tati as she is knownwas born here in MadridShe learned flamenco dancingfrom gypsiesmarried a gypsy in her youthand remains among the rare outsidersaccepted by them artistically andsociallyA professional dancer from the age of 1 2La Tati has dedicated her lifeto flamencoAnd flamenco has taken La Tatifrom a working-class neighborhoodto the concert stages of the worldShe reminiscesI cant remember a timewhen I didnt danceI was born on Toledo Streetand there all the neighborswere Andalucians and gypsiesAt No.5 of the Plaza de la Cascorrowas Quicathe dancing professor of SevilleI went to Quica when I was about sevenI never paid for a dancing classbecause there was not moneyin my familyI slept at the academy on a mattressbetween chairsI helped Quica clean the academyand did the errandsand this way I learned to danceToday, she passes her knowledge toa new generationShe reflects on teachingWith recordingsingers and movie actors can leavetheir way of singing and playing musicbut with dancing its a little moredifficultIf you dont do it through teachingyou cant leave a school of danceThis is why I like teaching very muchLa Tati is highly sought as a teacherBut as an artistshe gets her deepest satisfactionfrom performanceMy life is shaped on the stageAll that I feel or live for,everythingall my suffering and all my gloryall my life is on the stageShe rehearses for a tour that willtake her to FranceThe quality of flamencois to get out of a difficult situationof crying and of sorrowto get into an explosion of happinesseand a feeling born in the souland the heartFlamenco is an expression of the soulThe guitar is the instrument of SpainIn the working-class neighborhoodwhere he grew upArcangel Ferbabdez has hand-craftedguitars for 36 yearsI had my first job at 1 1 as afurniture makerLater I became fond of playing the guitarI started to play flamencoThen I met a great maestro of guitarmakingone of the best in the worldSince I had found that the artisticenvironment was not much to my likingI found myself turning to guitar makingOnly fineimported woods are used to createthe body of the guitarThey are carefully heated and shapedas the craftsman gradually brings theinstrument to lifeTo make a good handcrafted guitar youneed at least one monthThe difference between handcraftedand infactory guitars are manystarting with marterialsThe materials we use are quite expensiveYou must have knowledge of the tradeand put live into your workFor me that is the secret for makinga good guitarNothing elseSigned and numbered by the craftsmana finished instrument may cost from twoto ten thousand dollarsThrough this artists expressionthe guitar gives voice tothe Spa