服装制衣厂缝纫线迹基本知识介绍.doc

服装制衣厂缝纫线迹基本知识简介stitch 线迹，针脚，粤针步，线步 线迹的分类形式很多，年，国际标准化组织对线迹的种类，编号进行了规定，将标准线迹分为大类：100类 - 链式线迹200类 - 仿手工线迹300类 - 琐式线迹400类 - 多线链式线迹500类 - 包缝线迹600类 - 覆盖线迹100类中最常用的是101和103两种101和103都是是单线链式线迹，103常用于暗线挑缝300类中最常用的是301，304，308和320其中301称单针平缝线迹，又是最最常用的线迹，304两点人字线迹，308三点人字线迹，比301更有弹性400类中最常用的是401，402，407401又叫直线型双线链式线迹，又一条针线一条钩线组成在底层缝料的底面利用相互交错和相互交圈形成锁链状线迹402又称双针网底线迹，又两条针线和一条钩线组成，通常用于针织裤子的侧缝和手套背面的装饰线条407表面如三条平行的301线迹，底层则为网状结构，主要用于车缝橡筋到内裤内衣上500类中最常用的有504，505，512，514504和505都是三线包缝线迹504广泛用于制衣业的锁边工序，505主要针对中厚料512和514是四线包缝又称安全线迹都由两条针线两条钩线组成，只是钩线与针线的交圈方式上两阵稍有不同600类中最常用的是602，605，607三种602又称二针网面线迹，主要用于针织捏仪，运动服装等605又称三针网面线迹主要用语衣服上缝橡津，切滚条和拼接缝的缝合等工序607是四针网面线迹，有四条针线知识比605加了一条阵线其他类似综上所述，600类主要用于针织服装的滚边，滚领，折边，拼接缝和装饰花边等工序，其实也就是绷缝啦; )bartack，（bar tack，bar-tack） 套结，倒回针，加固缝，粤打枣flat-lock stitch，（flat lock stitch），covering stitch 覆盖线迹，绷缝线迹interlock stitch 联锁线迹，多线链式线迹 single thread chain stitch 单线链式线迹，单线链状线，粤单线锁链底针步，（101线迹），（用于假缝，如袋口） 103线迹 - blind stitch 暗缝，暗缲针缝，粤挑脚，301线迹 - lock stitch，plain stitch 锁式线迹，平缝线迹，普通线迹，粤平车针步，（最常见的线迹）304线迹 - zigzag lock stitch 曲折锁式线迹，锯齿形锁式线迹，Z形锁式线迹，之字形平车针步，粤人字形平车针步，（底面线都是锁式线迹）401线迹 - single needle chain stitch 单针链式线迹，单针链状针步，粤单针锁链底针步404线迹 - zigzag chain stitch 曲折链式线迹，锯齿形链式线迹，Z形链式线迹，粤人字锁链底针步，（面线是锁式线迹，底线是链式线迹） 406线迹 - 2 needles bottom cover stitch 双针底部覆盖线迹，粤双针网底针步，（用于腰带袢，针织服装的袖口、下摆等） 407线迹 - 3 needles bottom cover stitch 三针底部绷缝线迹，粤三针网底针步408线迹 - 2 needles chain stitch with cover thread 双针链式表面覆盖线迹，粤双针网面锁链底针步 503线迹 - 2 threads overedge stitch 双线拷边，双线包边，粤双线钑骨504线迹 - overlock stitch，coveredge stitch，3 threads overedge stitch 包缝线迹，拷边线迹，锁边线迹，三线拷边，三线包边，粤三线钑骨，（最常见的拷边线迹） 512线迹 - mock safety stitch 假线迹，模拟线迹，（用于弹性面料接缝） 514线迹 - 2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch 双针四线拷边，双针四线包边，粤双针四线钑骨，（用于弹性面料接缝） 515线迹(401+503) - 4 threads safety stitch 四线安全线迹，粤四线安全针步516线迹(401+504) - safety stitch，5 threads safety stitch 五线拷边，五线锁边，安全线迹，五线包边安全线迹，粤五线钑骨602线迹 - 2 needles 4 threads cover stitch 双针四线绷缝线迹605线迹 - 3 needles 5 threads cover stitch 三针五线绷缝线迹606线迹 - 4 needles 9 threads cover stitch，（flatlock stitch） 四针九线平式绷缝线迹607线迹 - 4 needles 6 threads cover stitch，（flatseamer/flatlock stitch） 四针六线平式绷缝线迹, pearl stitch 珠式线迹，（Used in knitting，for fancy borders and edges，one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made. Because of this，he received the nickname of perley wilson.）-服饰线迹的工艺名词知识 平缝线迹PLAIN STITCH ,FLAT STITCH疏缝线迹BASTING STITCH ,TACKING STITC绷缝线迹COVERING STITCH ,FLAT -LOCK STITCH绗缝线迹QUILTED STITCH嵌缝线迹CORD STITCH面缝线迹TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH暗缝线迹INVISIBLE STITCH ,BLIND STITCH缲缝线迹SLIP STITCH折缝线迹FELL STITCH倒缝线迹REVERSIBLE STITCH , BACKWARD STITCH包缝线迹OVERLOCK STITCH ,OVERCASTING STITCH ,OVEREDGE锁式线迹LOCK STITCH ,LOCKSTITCH链式线迹CHAIN STITCH联式线迹CHAINLOCK STITCH人字线迹HERRINGBONE STITCH羽状线迹FEATHER STITCH珠式线迹PEARL STITCHZ形线迹CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH角形线迹ANGLE STITCH弓形线迹ARCHED STITCH锯齿形状线迹PICOT STITCH ,ZIGZAG STITCH贝壳形状线迹SHELL STITCH网眼形状线迹BASKET STITCH蜂窝形状线迹HONEYCOMB STITCH直形线迹STRAIGHT STITCH双十字形状线迹DOUBLE STITCH交叉线迹，十字线迹CROSS STITCH圆形线迹ROUND STITCH廓形线迹OUTLINE STITCH曲折形线迹ZIGZAG SITITCH变形线迹CHANGE STITCH钩编线迹CROCHET STITCH织补线迹DARNING STITCH刺绣线迹EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH装饰线迹ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH花式线迹FANCY STITCH点划线迹DOT DASH STITCH对称线迹COUNTER STITCH比翼线迹FLY STITCH特殊线迹SPECIAL STITCH复合线迹COMBINATION STITCH, SPLIT STITCH复式线迹DOUBLE ACTION STITCH双针线迹TWICE STITCH双重线迹TWICE STITCH三重线迹TRIPLE STITCH缝式线迹SEAM STITCH加固线迹FASTENING STITCH ,TACKING STITCH打结线迹KNOTTING STITCH扎缚线迹PADDING STITCH袖褶线迹SHIRRING STITCH伸缩线迹STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH滚边线迹BINDING STITCH卷边线迹HEMMING STITCH暗卷缝线迹BLINDING HEMMING STITCH拼合线迹ABUTTING STITCH间断线迹BROKEN STITCH跳针线迹SKIPPING STITCH安全线迹SAFETY STITCH手针缝法缭针法SLIP STITCH拱针法PRICK STITCH明缲针法FELL STITCH暗缲针法BLING HEMMING STITCH环针法-CATCH STITCH叠针法FASTENING STITCH扎针法PAD STITCH扳针法DIAGONAL BASTING绗针法QUILTING STITCH锁针法LOCK STITCH倒针法BARTACK STITCH ,BACK STITCH三角针法HERRINGBONE STITCH杨树花针法FEATHER STITCH花针法ZIGZAG STITCH跳针法SKIPPING STITCH缝线迹PLAIN STITCH ,FLAT STITCH疏缝线迹BASTING STITCH ,TACKING STITCH绷缝线迹COVERING STITCH ,FLAT -LOCK STITCH绗缝线迹QUILTED STITCH嵌缝线迹CORD STITCH面缝线迹TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH暗缝线迹INVISIBLE STITCH ,BLIND STITCH缲缝线迹SLIP STITCH折缝线迹FELL STITCH倒缝线迹REVERSIBLE STITCH , BACKWARD STITCH包缝线迹OVERLOCK STITCH ,OVERCASTING STITCH ,OVEREDGE锁式线迹LOCK STITCH ,LOCKSTITCH链式线迹CHAIN STITCH联式线迹CHAINLOCK STITCH人字线迹HERRINGBONE STITCH羽状线迹FEATHER STITCH珠式线迹PEARL STITCHZ形线迹CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH角形线迹ANGLE STITCH弓形线迹ARCHED STITCH锯齿形状线迹PICOT STITCH ,ZIGZAG STITCH贝壳形状线迹SHELL STITCH网眼形状线迹BASKET STITCH蜂窝形状线迹HONEYCOMB STITCH直形线迹STRAIGHT STITCH双十字形状线迹DOUBLE STITCH交叉线迹，十字线迹CROSS STITCH圆形线迹ROUND STITCH廓形线迹OUTLINE STITCH曲折形线迹ZIGZAG SITITCH变形线迹CHANGE STITCH钩编线迹CROCHET STITCH织补线迹DARNING STITCH刺绣线迹EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH装饰线迹ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH花式线迹FANCY STITCH点划线迹DOT DASH STITCH对称线迹COUNTER STITCH比翼线迹FLY STITCH特殊线迹SPECIAL STITCH复合线迹COMBINATION STITCH, SPLIT STITCH复式线迹DOUBLE ACTION STITCH双针线迹TWICE STITCH双重线迹TWICE STITCH三重线迹TRIPLE STITCH缝式线迹SEAM STITCH加固线迹FASTENING STITCH ,TACKING STITCH打结线迹KNOTTING STITCH扎缚线迹PADDING STITCH袖褶线迹SHIRRING STITCH伸缩线迹STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH滚边线迹BINDING STITCH卷边线迹HEMMING STITCH暗卷缝线迹BLINDING HEMMING STITCH拼合线迹ABUTTING STITCH间断线迹BROKEN STITCH跳针线迹SKIPPING STITCH安全线迹SAFETY STITCH手针缝法缭针法SLIP STITCH拱针法PRICK STITCH明缲针法FELL STITCH暗缲针法BLING HEMMING STITCH环针法-CATCH STITCH叠针法FASTENING STITCH扎针法PAD STITCH扳针法DIAGONAL BASTING 绗针法QUILTING STITCH锁针法LOCK STITCH倒针法BARTACK STITCH ,BACK STITCH三角针法HERRINGBONE STITCH杨树花针法FEATHER STITCH花针法ZIGZAG STITCH跳针法SKIPPING STITCH缝型，缝式SEAM TYPE ,SEAM PATTERN 结构缝COMPOSITE SEAM 普通缝NORMAL SEAM 装饰缝ORNAMENTAL SEAM ,DECORATIVE SEAM 连续缝CONTINUOUS SEAM 间断缝BROKEN SEAM 长缝LONG SEAM 短缝SHORT SEAM 内缝INSEAM 外缝- OUTSEAM 原缝THICK SEAM 中缝CENTRE SEAM 侧缝SIDE SEAM 斜线缝BIAS SEAM 缭缝SLANTING SEAM 弧线缝CURVED SEAM 转角缝CORNER SEAM 平缝-FLAT SEAM 平接缝SLAT FELL SEAM ,BUTTED SEA M搭接缝LAPPING SEAM 双搭接缝DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM 接合缝JOINING SEAM 拼合缝ABUTTED SEAM 双线缝TWIN SEAM 镶色缝CONTRAST COLOR SEAM 嵌花缝APPLIANCE SEAM 绷缝，覆盖缝FLAT LOCK SEAM ,COVERED SEAM 来去缝FRENCH SEAM ,BAG SEAM 莱克拉缝LYCRA SEAM 伸缩缝STRETCH SEAM ,ELASTIC SEAM 漏落缝SELF BOUND SEAM 坐倒缝LAPPING SEAM 开缝OPENING SEAM 分缉缝-DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM 压缉缝TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM 坐缉缝TUCKED SEAM 成形缝FINISHING SEAM ,FASHION SEAM 明缝，面缝OUTSEAM ,TOPSTICH SEAM 暗缝-BLIND SEAM ,INVISIBLE SEAM 暗边缝HIND EDGE SEAM 包缝OVERSEAM ,CLOSED SEAM ,OVEREDGE SEAM ,OVERCAST SEAM ,OVERLOCK SEAM明包缝FLAT FELL SEAM 暗包缝WELT SEAM 锁式线缝LOCKSTITCH SEAM 连锁缝INTERLOCK SEAM 链式线缝CHAINSTITCH SEAM 环缝CATCH STITCH SEAM 嵌缝CORDING SEAM 绗缝QUILTING SEAM 格子缝LATTICE SEAM 交叉缝CROSS SEAM 泡状缝BEADED SEAM,锯齿缝GERMAN SEAM ,ZIGZAG SEAM曲折缝ZIGZAG SEAM 蝶形缝BUTTERFLY SEAM 辫形缝PLAITED SEAM 凸形缝RAISED SEAM 带形缝STRAP SEAM 悬缝HANGING SEAM 保险缝FLAT FELL SEAM 加固缝TACKING SEAM ,FASTENING SEAM 终止缝FINAL SEAM 领缝COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM 肩缝SHOULDER SEAM 背缝BACK SEAM 背嵌缝CENTRE BACK SEAM 袖下缝UNDERARM SEAM 袖笼缝ARMHOLE SEAM 门襟缝FRONT FLY SEAM ,PLACKET SEA M门襟止口缝FORNT EDGE SEAM 摆缝SIDE SEAM 衩缝VENT SEAM 腰缝WAISTLINE SEAM 腰带缝WAISTBAND SEAM 裆缝CROTCH SEAM 前裆缝FRONT RISE SEAM 后裆缝BACK RISE SEAM ,SEAT SEAM 下裆缝INSIDE SEAM ,INSEAM 折叠缝FOLDING SEAM 褶裥缝BUCKED SEAM ,PLKEAT SEAM 对折缝FELLED SEAM 卷边缝HEMMING SEAM 贴边缝WELT SEAM 滚边缝BOUND SEAM 织补缝DARNING SEAM 贴带缝TAPED SEAM缝纫线知识缝纫线是主要的线类材料，用于缝合各种服装材料，兼有实用与装饰双重功能。缝纫线质量的好坏，不仅影响缝纫效率，且影响所缝服装和制品的外观质量及加工成本。因此有必要了解缝纫线的有关常识。 1 缝纫线的分类与特点缝纫线最常用的分类方法是原料分类法，包括天然纤维缝纫线、合成纤维缝纫线及混合缝纫线三大类。 天然纤维缝纫线 a. 棉缝纫线：以棉纤维为原料经炼漂、上浆、打蜡等工序制成的缝纫线。强度较高，耐热性好，适于高速缝纫与耐久压烫，缺点是弹性与耐磨性较差。它又可分为无光线（或软线）、丝光线和蜡光线。棉缝线主要用于棉织物、皮革及高温熨烫衣物的缝纫。 b. 蚕丝线：用天然蚕丝制成的长丝线或绢丝线，有极好的光泽，其强度、弹性和耐磨性能均优于棉线，适于缝制各类丝绸服装、高档呢绒服装、毛皮与皮革服装等。我国古代常用蚕丝绣花线绣制精美的装饰绣品。合成纤维缝纫线 a. 涤纶缝纫线：是目前主要的缝纫用线，以涤纶长丝或短纤维为原料制成。具有强度高、弹性好、耐磨、缩水率低、化学稳定性好的特点，主要用于牛仔、运动装、皮革制品、毛料及军服等的缝制。这里须注意的是，涤纶缝线熔点低，在高速缝纫时易熔融，堵塞针眼，导致缝线断裂，故不适合过高速度缝合的服装。 b. 锦纶缝纫线：锦纶缝纫线由纯锦纶复丝制造而成，分长丝线、短纤维线和弹力变形线三种，目前主要品种是锦纶长丝线。它的优点在于强伸度大 、弹性好，其断裂长度高于同规格棉线三倍，因而适合于缝制化纤、呢绒、皮革及弹力等服装。锦纶缝纫线更大的优势在于透明缝纫线的发展，由于此线透明，和色性较好，因此减少和解决了缝纫配线的困难，发展前景广阔，不过限于目前市场上透明线的刚度太大，强度太低，线迹易浮于织物表面，加之其不耐高温，缝速不能过高，现主要用作贴花、摞边的缝制，而没有用于合缝。 c. 维纶缝纫线：由维纶纤维制成，其强度高，线迹平稳，主要用于缝制厚实的帆布、家具布、劳保用品等。 d.腈纶缝纫线：由腈纶纤维制成，主