英语 服装测量方法

1 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments All Measurements are taken with garment on flat surface All fullness and wrinkles should be smoothed out of garment but garment must not be stretched Measurements are taken with garment closures in closed position unless otherwise specified TOPS A BUST Measure straight across front of garment from side to side 1 below armhole x 2 for circumference B ACROSS SHOULDER Measure straight across back of garment where shoulder seam intersects top of armhole seam shoulder point to opposite shoulder point 2 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments C ARMHOLE Measure on curve along armhole seam from top shoulder point to bottom intersection of armhole seam and side seam x 2 for circumference The armhole drop is measured using an imaginary straight line drawn from the outer top edge of the armhole or sleeve seam down to an imaginary straight line drawn horizontally through the lowest point of armhole when garment is placed flat and smooth with shoulder seams in a natural position D SLEEVE AT MUSCLE UPPER ARM Measure straight sleeve in a line perpendicular to the fold line at the top edge of the sleeve Begin measurement point 1 away from armhole seam 3 15 APPENDIX C Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments E WAIST tops E1 Measure straight across front of garment from side to side on a straight line at right angles to the specified distance down from high point shoulder x 2 for circumference E2 Measure straight across front of garment from side to side at narrowest part of front x 2 for circumference E3 Measure straight across front of garment from side to side along the constructed waist seam x 2 for circumference F SWEEP tops F1 Measure along bottom curve of garment from side to side garment closed x 2 for circumference F2 Measure along bottom curve of garment from front edge to front edge garment opened F3 Sweater rib measure along bottom of rib relaxed x 2 for circumference Waist Sweep 4 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments G FRONT LENGTH From highpoint shoulder measure straight down front of garment to bottom H BACK LENGTH H1 From center of base of back neck seam measure straight down back of garment to bottom H2 From high point shoulder measure straight down back of garment to bottom Front Length Back Length CBN HPS 5 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments I SLEEVE LENGTH I1 From shoulder point at top of armhole measure straight down to bottom of sleeve or cuff I2 From the center of back neck CBN measure straight across to shoulder point at top of armhole then straight down to bottom of sleeve or cuff I3 From neck seam measure to shoulder point then straight down to bottom of Sleeve or cuff Sleeve length crown cuff Sleeve length from CBN Sleeve length from neck seam or edge 6 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments J CUFF SLEEVE OPENING J1 Measure across opening of sleeve or cuff from side to side x 2 for circumference J2 Extended measurement With cuff fully extended measure across opening of cuff from side to side x 2 for circumference J3 Sweater rib measure along bottom of rib relaxed x 2 for circumference K COLLAR NECK K1 With collar open measure from center of button to far edge button hole K2 Measure along curve of outer edge of neck opening from side to side x 2 for circumference Neck opening Circumference Neck Opening 7 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments K3 Back neck width is measured along the horizontal imaginary line from neck point to neck point When measuring the shoulders should be rolled forward to a natural position On a collared shirt lay neck out as smoothly as possible and measure from neck points Do not stretch neck out allow it to follow the natural curve K4 The back neck drop is the distance between an imaginary straight line touching neck points and the top edge of the garment at center back If the garment is collared measure from the center back at the collar seam line To measure do not use the shoulder seams as neck points The shoulder seam should be rolled forward the way a garment would naturally fall on a form or body 8 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments K5 The front neck drop is measured from the same imaginary line as the back neck drop Generally the measurement is from the imaginary line to the lowest open part of the front neckline The measurement can also be from the imaginary line to the center of the first button for button front garments If this type of measurement is used please note that on the spec sheet K6 The shoulder slope is measured from the imaginary straight line through neck points to the outer edge of the armhole A second imaginary line is drawn perpendicular to the first at this measurement point This measurement shows the actual distance between the armhole or sleeve seam and the high shoulder point As with the front and back neck drops the measurement is taken with the garment in a natural position with the shoulder seams rolled forward This measurement should not be confused with the shoulder seam length Shoulder Slope 9 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments K7 The most common problem encountered is that shoulder seams are not properly shaped Almost without exception a well balanced garment has a shoulder seam that rolls slightly towards the front to accommodate for the natural shoulder roll of the human body To achieve this the back shoulder should be approximately higher than the front on a pattern when side seams and lower armhole points are matched 10 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments BOTTOMS L WAIST bottoms L1 Waist relaxed With waist closed measure along center of waist band from side to side x 2 for circumference L2 Waist extended With waist closed expand waist fully and measure along center of waist band from side to side x 2 for circumference Relaxed Waist Stretch for extended waist measurement Waist 11 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments M HIP M1 Measure 8 or specified distance down center front from bottom of waist band and mark point at right angles to center front line measure straight across at marked point from side to side x 2 for circumference M2 Measure 8 or specified distance down center front from bottom of waist band and mark point Measure same distance down both outseams from bottom of waist band and mark points Measure from left side at marked point to center front marked point pivot and measure to right side of marked point x 2 for circumference M3 High hip measure 4 or specified distance down center front from bottom of waist band and mark point Measure same distance down both outseams from bottom of waist band and mark point pivot and measure to right side of marked point x 2 for circumference High Hip Regular Hip 12 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments N FRONT RISE Measure from front crotch point seam up along seam to bottom of band O BACK RISE Measure from back crotch point seam up along seam to bottom of band Note Rise measurement is from bottom of waistband or elastic or crotch point at inseam P TRUE RISE Measure from bottom of waist band straight down outseam to point on outseam at right angles to crotch point Front Rise Back Rise True Rise or Rise Depth can be measured with the garment inside out one leg inside the other laid flat Measure from bottom of band or elastic to lowest point of rise 13 15 Apparel Product Standards Measurement Guidelines for Finished Garments Q THIGH Measure from crotch point straight across at right angles to center line of leg to side x2 for circumference R KNEE R1 At one half inseam length measure straight across leg from side to side x2 for circumference R2 At specified distance down from crotch point measure straight across leg from side to side x 2