内衣专业知识.doc

1.Stitching / Thread线步/线( r p6 c p; m: RQ; j) s$ U b5 p% z7 f% b1.1 Bad stitching at front pocket opening./开前袋线步差。0 c$ O$ G6 d y S. k1.2Garment were less than our standard of 9.S.P.I. / 成品的线步比要求每寸9针标准低。: I( ?6 U0 U# F( t1.3Uneven stitching of density on standard on bottom edge stitching / 裤脚线步密度不均匀。) v, . $ f# p0 |1.4Loose thread ends not removed from garment / 成品没有剪线头。7 F, , $ 4 d1 _* + ?1.5Thread ends not trimmed and should be flushed with the garment./成品线头未剪，应该剪干净。! p& b/ d2 a8 i# P1.6Skipped stitches/跳线，Double stitches/重线,Broken stitches/断线,Run off /?线落坑/ a/ P) N1 u9 c: q1.7Loose thread/松线，Thread distorted /线扭曲,) R3 o1 ?5 k a1.8Needle holes or needle burns /针孔或消针& o) b4 m( 5 O: e1.9Part of garment caught in unrelated operation/成衣部分由无关工序所组合。 , G) / O4 M+ n* k1.10 Improper sewing-stitching density( too loose, too tight)/线步密度不适当（太松，太紧）# ( y4 S$ k1 n2 G9 Y; Q3 ?) P3 q1.11 S.P.I. more/less than specified / 每针线步比规定多或少。. U* O: R+ B* z) ; l5 1.12 End of stitching not back-stitching ,tied in (securely caught in ) other seam/线步未翻针车死其它骨口。- t5 b) U3 0 |1.13 Excessive sewing thread shrinkage compare to fabric /相比布料，线的缩水度太厉害。+ |7 z7 g4 i; I* h1.14 Blind stitching were shown on top fabric/暗线外露。) B P( c: / O& Q! F/ q1.15 Front pleat stitching uneven width/length 前折线步宽度或长度不均。0 & ) Q# 2 G, l1.16 Poor stitching on hemmed bottom /裤脚环口线步差。! h; w+ S b q8 V0 c, x1.17 Join stitching not in the same line/ 线步翻针位没有在同一?位。 E1 w6 V; k L: ( Z1.18 Upper stitching tension are tighter than the lower so cause loops of fabric surface and out look. 面线间线起珠，引致线步起珠。3 w( D6 M. Z/ v# e0 i; F1.19 Should be 1/4” double needle stitching at cuff ,armhole and front placket.介英/夹圈及前筒应车1/4”双线。& x. d3 z! |, y3 q- Z; o: u1.20 Broken stitching found on waistband/ 裤头断线。$ j- p! E4 _5 A% l: f1.21 Garment have uneven stitching width at front rise/前浪线步不平均。$ Q2 : x- L8 K* m1.22 Garment not up to our stitching of 9 S.P.I. /成品未达到每寸9针的标准。* _2 a4 R) f+ o1 O$ f1.23 Uneven stitching per inch on bottom / 裤脚每寸针数不平均。1 7 S I2 D$ Q& b& d1.24 Edge stitching on centre front is missing./前中欠车边线。$ ! J( A$ N1 I4 U1.25 Needle holes found below the back pocket tape/ 后袋下有针孔。+ v) V0 R# A U: S$ a1.26 Seam inside waistband is not trimmed properly and too bulky near pocket area.内裤头子口位线头未清及有谷位。. r: Z5 M/ s4 i8 l% 6 1.27 Thread ends not trimmed/未剪线。8 G$ p$ z: l) 3 l0 b W1.29 Garment more/less than our specified 16 S.P.I./成品比我方每寸16针的标准多/少。9 o! T8 w7 n( & e% r5 O: D( t1.30 Thread ends were not trimmed, pls trim thread ends of inside and outside garment properly before packing.线头未剪，在包装前请把成品内外线头剪净。# w0 . 0 d, P1 i1.31 Untrimmed bartack threads at beltloops/front pockets在耳仔及前袋位打枣线头未剪净。! T. r O4 k+ Gs: B, w H1.32 Untrimmed threads expecially at repairs and buttons./剪线不清特别在修补及钮位。2 w3 z iQ) W5 P% q0 % y# H) / F3 c( Q/ _* Z* n2.Waistband / 裤头. & x5 ?! i2 Rw6 I: l% f2 e- k4 r$ 5 k/ $ u3 E N* 2.1 Uneven seam allowance on waistband / 裤头子口不均。P3 M1 M0 l5 B8 b6 G; x7 ?2.2 Uneven length of front opening /前开口袋长度不均。3 Z. K0 X( Q 7 u; L, y4 b) d2.3 Waistband misaligned at front when buttoned / 裤头扣钮后前面不对称。5 ) 3 h% ! B4 ! x( _1 2.4 Very poor startover at waistband, created two rows of stitching./裤头返针叠位欠佳，形成两行?。3 T6 j. k8 f# ; N7 P K/ O2.5 Excessive startover on waistband /裤头有过多返针。3 e( b. A: O* i) : ! S2.6 Waistband near centre back is puckering./ 后中裤头位起皱。9 d I L; 4 O8 i9 Sz* K2.7 Puckering was found along waistband seam , it was especially poor at the top of fly front. 裤头起皱，尤其在前钮牌处。 X0 T, Gn# Q8 H2.8 Poor backstitching is found on waistband/ 裤头驳线欠佳。 C4 f% v) |1 O0 u9 2.9 Uneven edge stitching on waistband /裤头车线不均。. j& c w* V W$ Q9 V+ + R9 |# g* |# r; C l3Placket/筒( z3 r+ w6 b$ C; 8 R: n6 k# k5 t/ s$ V- 3.1 Placket top stitching not straight and balance./面筒线步不平直和对称。+ ) q% t1 * n8 M2 $ Z3.2 Top placket not covering up completely the bottom placket/ 面筒不能全部盖到底筒。 U% : 3 L; Nz3 n, h: h3.3 Uneven length of sleeve placket on the same gmt/同一条成品袖筒长短不一。# V7 T4 Y; k; Sm. 9 I# L! 3.4 Uneven edge at front placket. 前筒反光。+ l0 P; x6 a* d3 / m( X$ F% _+ N& F/ K& Z/ 4Interlining/朴5 3 n, d! 5 w9 v% 0 9 t, f& H) ) m/ D2 I4.1 Waistband interlining is too hard/tight./裤头朴太紧。7 b1 r& y2 _3 w4.2 Should have fusible in front pocket./前袋应用朴。$ P6 c+ d5 v/ t5 O4.3 Should fuse fly interlining on body not fly facing./朴应用于大身内。, D9 Y3 g; 0 H( O1 u) M4.4 Should fuse woven fusible interlining on top centre./上中位应用朴。, D5 A5 ! j f1 a P% . G1 7 Z A) , W: A v-7.17日更新，华丽的分割线-9 h7 B2 g, uU0 d( z N) C* G2 o& p$ w! n9 G1 | m7 l0 J) b( y8 h b5.Buttons/Snap 钮/急钮: K) h0 u5 F/ a. T& : m6 m S# 2 S$ O; v5.1 Missing button at pocket month./ 袋口位欠钮2 & a) |! u) j- P* 5.2 Untidy trimming at button hole./钮门线剪线欠理想! ?% P$ ( u; eA q5.3 Should use X stitching on button hole./ 钮眼位应用X 形线步4 |, / p: G9 S. he, q. 0 l9 x5.4 Damaged button found on garments./ 成品发现坏钮4 X$ t4 m) a4 y% z1 I$ ; e# T5.6 Eyelet is not clearly cut./ 凤眼未全开 h: 1 V3 t! H5 q/ m: l5.7 Centre front closure should be used shank button instead of snap./前中应用铁皮钮而不用急钮* c9 L- U |4 j* 5 m* G. 1 rr5.8 Found some garments buttons are not fastened./ 每些成品发现钉钮不稳: y* L3 + f- pz! z% h; F- R5.9 Button missing/欠钮，Button damaged/坏钮，Button misplaced/钮错位子， Button cracked/钮开裂T4 B& K6 k/ m$ T9 |$ Q! W5.10Button not aligned as specified./未按规定钉钮$ s/ 5 d f f& u5.11Button insecurely sewn/buttons are not fastened/钉钮不稳, qS# J0 X, M% 7 c+ Q$ I/ x5.12Button not sewn securely preferably with lock stitch machine./用钉钮机钉钮不稳固，效果欠理想( D x5 p* L3 k2 a5 d/ E- I# n5.13Button not as specified size, type, color./钉钮未按尺寸，种类，颜色等规定9 x: 0 R1 t5 Y3 J+ S5.14Loose button sewing thread not clipped./打钮线未剪4 * k1 C3 | - 3 A& l% w5.15Button hole omitted, button hole added./未开钮门，多开钮门; v/ Z! d: ! o/ K5.16Buttonhole with incomplete stitching./钮门线步未开完7 y3 f, o: n; K; ) 2 D1 C5.17Buttonhole uncut./未开钮门1 TA0 : ?4 h4 R7 w) - i. n5.18Broken/skipped incomplete stitch in buttonhole./钮门散/跳线7 l: j; F$ k4 a& f5.19Buttonhole not securely caught in fabric causing stitching to pull away from fabric.钮门未钉死在布上导致钮门容易被拉脱( O; c! , A; ?2 : e6 C0 q5.20Buttonholes sewn with more/less stitches per inch than as specified./钮门每寸针数比规定多/少# x$ m6 M4 h! t2 t: D5.21Defective snaps or other fasteners that do not function/work./急钮损坏或其它扣损坏引致不能正常运作+ E+ p! Q( s% - t: S5.22Snap/Grummet are not seated properly./急钮/鸡眼不能很好地扣在一起4 K( ?; # x3 R X5.23Snap that do not hold properly and released very easily./急钮扣合不顺畅I. R( * . v1 9 o5 N9 g1 K5.24Thread ends sticking out from buttonhole, its messy, should be trimmed properly before packing.钮门线未剪，太混乱，包装前要清理干净% |* M6 W& U8 z/ j$ I5.25Buttonhole is not big enough to button or un-button, its a big tight on the garments. 钮门太细，成品有的不够过* J: b3 p3 C5.26Unclean buttonholes “ looks like knife is not sharp”./钮门披口，钮门刀钝V( S w7 U! b J U* Q# v$ g; ) R2 p6. Pressing 烫2 I$ D; p- ( K( S5 h% e3 i& |& N6 EL9 |3 s8 L6.1 Garments not well pressed under thigh, should be open press seam./脾开骨位没有烫开骨5 N2 y6 U. b9 A6.2 Pressing on front pleat not well./前褶位烫工不好8 N( T# l% C- Ju6.3 Pressing too hard and make seam shine./ 烫工不好引致起镜 R% e& & i8 q0 W6.4 Please be noted pressing on sleeve and front pocket./请留意袖和前袋的烫工9 t( ?3 C+ x: O1 U6.5 Poor pressing on garments./成品烫工差8 x$ t$ w: i6 9 Z) e6.6 Excessive wrinkle that require pressing to over come./起皱严重需翻烫+ Eh& B: G# R- D m# V, X6.7 Shine caused by improper pressing./烫工起镜; L) C, p; Gl9 A: M4 - V6.8 Pressed poorly at garment./烫工非常不理想0 A9 l- 5 c7 q3 K. V$ T- | F3 f* B3 + o6 j. e7.Packing/Carton包装/卡通箱* d- g# P3 Y, i- 5 Y+ Y( t! ( y 5 f$ % w B7 : e7.1 Found C/N 18 has wrong packing. C/N 18 号箱错包装; r4 a5 D; b$ e3 s7.2 Wrong packing was found in C/N 18.错包装发现在C/N 18 号箱2 l4 s6 p9 ?+ l7 n V; |1 x P! q8. Zipper/fly拉链/钮牌$ W z: q $ F4 X2 J4 q6 b, M9 # E/ # a8.1 Poor shape of fly front./ 前钮牌形差/ x1 L. G7 v7 W8.2 Edge stitching at zipper uneven width./ 拉链车线宽窄不均0 G# r0 zB( q5 c$ Z8.3 Front fly stitching at lower end not well sewn./前钮牌底部车工欠佳- b m9 O& K/ A( Z, A- i8.4 Zipper length on pocket facing is 1/2” shorter than size spec./袋贴的拉链长度比要求偏短1/2”7 S k$ 7 y) w) f% w4 d8.5 Zipper set by stitching the fabric yielding weaving and bumpy zipper setting area.由于车工不好，导致拉链有起谷现象! S; r2 jV: D6 N8.6 Wrong size zipper/错拉链尺寸， Wrong type zipper/错拉链种类， Wrong color zipper/错拉链颜色. e+ i( Z# N# j# h/ 8.7 Defective zipper sliders/拉链牙失效- a# N2 z5 H5 ?7 t. F8.8 Defective zipper stop/拉链头失效9 Z# u; E0 K. les8.9 Thigh clearance between the slider and the seam edge causing slider to operate with difficulty.拉链牙与布边的距离太近，导致拉链拉合有困难! j( t- V; ys7 h% E# q7 V0 b8 o9 u8.10 Rusting in closure/拉链生锈! * e% H6 w$ / $ o+ y8 d8.11 Bleading in closure/拉链氧化$ _# l; Oh% Q+ u& D# . H/ P9 U8.12 Discoloration in closure/拉链退色，looseness in closure/拉链松4 m1 i* ? v5 I, s- U! l* g8 x3 f4 b) ?* b* X! b9. Fabric defect / 布疵- 5 J, u: v( Q8 , u+ Y: - T+ I+ # q0 h# e( g v9.1 White point appear at fabric/ 布料出现白色点6 G: % n i$ # s/ - F/ Q9.2 Color shade on wedding material/布边有色差: N1 n6 B& 9 u9.3 Pay attention to the fabric shrinkage manual/注意布料的缩水程度$ h% 4 ; Z/ B- e2 S/ |9.4 Assemble cutting with spurn-knob onto garment which should be replaced/缝合时有粒头需更换& G8 ?% Y X XK. H9.5 Yarn run found on bottom of inseam/内长底发现有纱线+ m7 u3 _. Z& h9 n8 A9.6 Garment were not washed enough and too stiff/成衣洗水不足，太硬: |/ e7 i% q; cq9.7 1 pc found different colored yarn at front/在前副发现1件有色纱$ . g2 A8 w6 7 o1 S9.8 Yarn snagged/pull yarns抽纱/丝# D. Y2 z/ z+ K! z/ ! _- C/ P9.9 Color shading on trim to body fabric / 副料和衫身有色差; v+ 9 K G% % C* K3 R2 2 s: U9.10Skewing on stripes. / 弯纹条 P$ G7 l, e# a 9.11Bowing on stripes. /弯纹条 i% p) $ L! t- g) o9.12Found some garments have uneven brushing streak. / 发现某些成品有不良刷痕$ v# N& D$ R1 x9.13Thick yarn粗纱,thin yarn幼纱,colored yarn色纱,broken yarn断纱,yarn run走纱. |9 d0 O) R4 k7 k) S0 a9.14Visible dye streaks / 可见染痕$ e/ u. x# X: 7 X( c0 J9.15Shade of lot different than approved sample / 与色办颜色有色差7 B ?3 ?! j- v5 b9.16permanent crease in the fabric / 布料有死痕6 P0 I& ! U& I9.17Fabric flaws on outside garments. 成品外骨布有问题1 E. m4 L- q8 v1 g2 n4 9.18Rips on the fabric. 面布有裂痕/ q) I/ ; L3 h# 9 o q, S$ C: ( U8 c! k o h-7.29 更新-w9 Z7 4 Q5 f% A5 c# e# l7 n10. Color 颜色9 T& X_4 d3 d5 v* t4 ) b: y; SW; J- J. 10.1Found Navy garments have color shading.发现蓝色成品有色差& u$ L) H# + Q6 _0 b; F10.2Found Red garments have two different thread color. 发现红色成品有两种不同?色. F1 C$ l- z5 R I% ?10.3Found Navy garments have two color shades after washing发现蓝色成品洗水后有两LOT色- d4 q% ) x9 u10.4Found thread of gray do not match with body color. 灰色线与衫身色不配色6 L! 0 B: y* y10.5Found type B15 fabric color is lighter than our standard. 发现B15颜色的布料比标准要浅- g B7 ?8 o* q( k4 T10.6Found color Black has color shades and is lighter than our standard. 发现克色有色差，比标准要浅0 F8 e, w. M$ s2 c; S* M 10.7Found color Mink has two color shades 发现奶白色有两个色缸 k5 w |1 l( w$ _! a6 7 10.8Found Blue color is darker than previous shipment, and pigment washed effect has not come out. 蓝色比色板偏深，没有碧纹效果: n9 t8 K2 g, K7 5 2 k! v10.9Panel shading in the garments / Color shading within one garment 成品有鸳鸯色( M) e* d$ e: K. d1 e10.10 Color shading within one garment 成品有鸳鸯色 ?% r4 X3 k( V, k# Z10.11 Color shading piece by piece 件与件有色差: x% b5 k o* # s! F V5 x2 H _3 / l4 f, m/ ?% S4 G11. Measurement 尺寸! 6 I$ F0 J1 bk) b( X 3 , D6 l5 I- Q- p) : t5 m: G+ I+ 11.1Hip measurement wear found 1/2” smaller/larger.坐围尺寸偏小/大1/2”! ?+ : W. a# U/ B11.2Back rise measurement out of tolerance 1/4” to 3/4”, should be corrected in bulk production.后浪尺寸比容忍度1/4”到3/4”，应该在大货生产中该正) Q8 D- W, J5 Y7 z$ 11.3Bottom width 1/2” smaller than size spec, pls be careful in production not to make any smaller.脚围宽尺寸比尺码表偏细1/2”，生产中应改注意不可再偏细( vq# S9 q+ N11.4Measurementdiscrepancies between sample and size spec,Bust2”bigger.办与尺码表的量度差别胸围大2寸: O2 T+ Z V V. t! l11.5Waist is inconsistent from 1” to large on some garment.腰围1寸位不均衡，某些地方偏大3 o! K$ ?& n4 x11.6Thigh is 1”-1 1/2” large in general. 脾围总地来讲比要求的大1”-1 1/2” p* I+ / . P, c11.7Waist is 1/2”-1” small on some garment 某些成品腰围尺寸偏细1/2”-1”) _( e$ Y8 c! g+ I% 11.8Waist is small by 3/4”.腰围细3/4”1 C3 C: O0 X, K& p, : D4 u2 r) v7 I7 z4 e6 C1 z# I j0 s l8 R1 V12. Pocket 袋; m: h% W6 R. d P$ n1 UPa# n: D1 G% g3 s3 i! n12.1Uneven width of pocket welt. / 唇袋宽度不均! |6 P4 D! P/ A) r+ m) 12.2Puckering on pocket flap. / 袋盖起皱. W1 BA8 g % h$ f2 Q% p12.3Unsmooth look at front pocket. / 前袋视觉不圆顺% I6 w, t) Ff9 O12.4Misaligned pocket. / 袋不对称1 q: j& b5 A( Y& w12.5Pocket size not as size spec. / 袋尺寸与标准不符3 x9 E M, 5 % H12.6Poor shaped back pocket. / 后袋袋形差; m3 i) c3 i! k8 u12.7Pocket wrong placement. / 袋错位置# k3 l0 v| D! o7 r12.8High-low pocket. / 高低袋1 rO rU5 D/ V6 h12.9Found some garments back pocket uneven placement. / 发现某些成品后袋位置不均9 W tl/ F% j8 12.10 Pocket poorly shaped. / 袋形不良$ W( 8 u7 n3 M z* z12.11 Pocket flap not properly placed. / 袋盖位置欠佳; |4 Y. & i3 L3 Z i12.12 Slanted pocket flaps. / 袋盖倾斜 T R, 5 * L1 N12.13 Buttonhole at back pocket is not straight. / 后袋钮门歪斜不直6 r+ L( : t: s0 s12.14 Back pocket are not aligning properly. / 后袋不成一直线& w! |- T- n9 dd; B5 k12.15 Pleats formed at rivets position at front right pocket. / 右前袋撞钉位置起皱 ! F! m- P- S& c; d& t! q12.16 Bartack at back pockets crooked. /后袋打枣位置欠佳 Q1 C) a7 m9 Q& M8 L$ a3 F; k( v; q13Inseam内长2 n# y1 q! E1 H* w# U5 V4 ?7 N, t1 Y; t/ 5 M7 i- y5 a: Q13.1Inseam misaligned with crotch. / 十字骨位不对称5 a; J0 t0 g5 ?3 F 13.2Uneven length of inseam. / 内长长短- F$ X( t+ P* O _% M5 Y) U2 w1 G_# _14. Back Yoke 后机头$ s: c2 x: z7 Y, w% y- U/ q3 w8 h# e3 $ . V$ O14.1Puckering was found along back yoke seam. / 后机头起皱. r: b2 N3 d4 U! A14.2Garments on double stitching is bit width, should be at 1/4”. / 成品双线距离应1/4”( 有点阔)4 J3 D; v5 J% t0 I( W0 u, K& p; M6 / R7 H: Z# A Z, C( n) Y15. Pleat褶* & y- + P6 |, S$ x* o e1 zB- & uf5 r15.1Found some garments have wrong direction of pleats. / 发现某些成