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Cover Unit12ClothesMaketheMan Uneasy 新世纪高等院校英语专业本科系列教材 修订版 综合教程第五册 第2版 电子教案 上海外语教育出版社南京信息工程大学刘杰海 LearningObjectives LearningObjectives Rhetoricalskill metaphor synecdocheKeylanguage grammarpointsWritingstrategies expositiveessaybydeductivemethodTheme masculinefashion Pre R pictureactivation PictureActivation Pre questions Whatisthetypicalmen swear Orwhatclothesshouldmenwear Pre R P Q1 1 Whattowearandhowtowearitseemtobeverypersonal Undercertaincircumstances however apersonshouldseetoitthatheorsheisproperlydressed Whatkindofclothesdoyouusuallyliketowear Doyouthinkitisimportantwhatapersonwears especiallyinpublic PictureActivation Pre questions Openfordiscussion Pre R P Q2 2 GonearethedayswhentheChinesewereallinblue black grey orgreenuniforms Nowtheyaredressedmuchmorecolorfully Nevertheless menseemtopaylessattentiontowhattheywearthanwomen Whatsocialroledoyouthinkmen sclothesplay PictureActivation Pre questions Opentodiscussion G R text intro a Thisexpositoryessaydealswiththechangesinmasculinefashion focusingonthedrasticchangesintheWestinthe1960s pointingoutthesignificanceofmasculinechoicesofclothes andlayingbaremasculinenarcissismandvanity Thetextisintendedtotellusthatmenfounditquiteeasytodressthemselvesbeforethe1960s thedifferencebetweenmen sandwomen sclothesusedtobeaneasymatterfromeverypointofview Butsincethebeginningofthe1960s therateofchangeinmasculinefashionhasaccelerated andmenhavefounditimpossibletoresistthechanges TextIntroduction CultureNotes Author Structure G R text intro b Menhavehadtomakeandvaluechoicesofclothes whichstamptheirownidentity Inthe1960s menkeenlyfeltandvigorouslysupportedthetinydifferencesintheirchoices fortheyattachedtoomuchimportancetotheirindividualidentity Inthepresentage masculinefashionpreferencesarealsocloselyrelatedtomen snarcissismandvanity Nowadays itisnolongereasytodistinguishbetweenmen sandwomen sclothes TextIntroduction CultureNotes Author Structure G R culture notes Sunking LouisXIV 5September1638 1September1715 knownasLouistheGreat LouisleGrand ortheSunKing leRoi Soleil wasaBourbonmonarchwhoruledasKingofFranceandNavarre Hisreignof72yearsand110daysisoneofthelongestinFrenchandEuropeanhistory TextIntroduction CultureNotes Author Structure G R authorbio AnneHollander 1930 isanativeofClevelandwhowaseducatedinNewYorkCity Anexperiencedobserverofandwriteronthehistoryoffashion sheagainturnstothatsubjectintheessayClothesMaketheMan Uneasy HerworksincludeSeeingThroughClothes SexandSuits FeedingtheEye andFabricofVision DressandDraperyinPainting etc TextIntroduction CultureNotes Author Structure LosAnglesTimesNEWSBYDESIGN Suits Glorious Suits They renomereclothes anartcriticsays Theycanturnamanintoaworkofart September22 1994 PATRICIAWARDBIEDERMAN TIMESSTAFFWRITERAnneHollanderismadaboutsuits Otherpeoplemaydismissthemasdrearysymbolsofconformity thepredictableretreatoftheterminallyunimaginative NotHollander Inhernewapologia SexandSuits AlfredA Knopf theartcriticcontendsthatthesuitisnothinglessthananaesthetictriumph agranddesignthatcontinuestopleasehundredsofyearsafteritsinvention LosAnglesTimesFEATUREDARTICLESBOOKSItAllStartedWithVermeer MOVINGPICTURESbyAnneHollander AlfredA Knopf 29 95 295pp July30 1989 DouglasMesserli Messerli apoetandcritic directsSun MoonPress andWithgreateruditionandintellectualfacility AnneHollanderarguesin MovingPictures thatmotionpicturesarerootedinthevisualartoftheDutchandFlemishgenrepaintersofthe17thCenturyandtheirimpact inturn uponartistsasdiverseasTiepolo Piranesi Canaletto Hogarth Goya Turner Whistler andothers G R structureanalysis TextIntroduction CultureNotes Author Structure Part1 Part2 Part3 1 priortothemid 1960salargenumberofmenfeltincertainrespectsmoreuneasyaboutwhattowear 2 5 themainpartoftheexpositiveessay masculinefashion 6 whymenhatefashionrisksandthenproceedstodescribemasculinefashionpreferencesandtheirpurposesinthecontemporaryage DR p1 atext CLOTHESMAKETHEMAN UNEASYAnneHollander1 Thelastdecadehasmadealargenumberofmenmoreuneasyaboutwhattowearthantheymighteverhavebelievedpossible Theideathatonemightagonizeoverwhethertogrowsideburnsorweartrousersofaradicallydifferentshapehadneveroccurredtoawholegeneration Beforethemid 60swhethertowearatiewasthemostdramaticsartorialproblem everythingelsewasasubtlematterofsurfacevariation DetailedReading DR p1 btext Womenhavebeensoaccustomedtodealingwithextremefashionforsolongthattheyautomaticallybracethemselvesforwhateveriscomingnext includingtheirownwillingnesstoresistorconformandalltheprobablemasculineresponses Meninmoderntimeshaveonlylatelyfeltanypressuretopaythatkindofattention Allthedelicateshadesofsignificanceexpressedbythesmallrangeofpossiblealternativesusedtobeabsorbingenough Double orsingle breastedcut Sportsjacketandslacksorasuit Shoeswithplainorwingtip DetailedReading DR p1 ctext Thechoicesmenhadhadtomakeneverlookedverymomentoustoafeminineeyeaccustomedtoahugerangeofpersonallyacceptablepossibilities buttheyalwayshadanabsoluteandenormousmeaningintheworldofmen anidentifyingstampusuallyincomprehensibletofemalejudgment Ahatwithatinybitofnearlyinvisiblefeatherwasseparatedasbyanoceanfromahatwithnone andwhite on whiteshirts almostimperceptiblycomplexinweave weretotallyshunnedbythosemenwhofavoredwhiteoxford clothshirts DetailedReading DR p1 dtext Womenmightremainmystifiedbytheferocitywithwhichmenfeltandsupportedthesetinydifferences andperhapstheymightpitysuchnarrowsartorialvisionattachingsomuchimportancetohalfaninchofpaddingintheshouldersoraninchoftrousercuff DetailedReading DR p2text 2 Butmenknewhowluckytheywere Itwasneververyhardtodressthepartofoneself Evenimaginativewivesandmotherscouldeventuallybetrainedtorejectallseductivebutincorrectchoiceswithrespecttotiefabricandcollarshapethatmightconnotethewrongflavorofspiritualoutlook thewronglevelofeducation orthewrongsortofmalebonding Itwasawellorderedworld thedoublestandardflourishedwithouthindrance andnomanwhostucktotheruleseverneededtosuspectthathemightlookridiculous DetailedReading DR p3atext 3 Intothisstablesystemthewidth of tiequestioneruptedintheearly 60s Suddenly andforthefirsttimeincenturies therateofchangeinmasculinefashionacceleratedwithdisconcertingviolence throwinganewlightonallthesteadyoldarrangements Womenlookedonwithsecretsatisfaction asitbecameobviousthatduringthenextfewyearsmenmightthinktheycouldresistthechanges buttheywouldfinditimpossibletoignorethem Infacttothediscomfitureofmany theverylookofhavingignoredthechangessuddenlybecameadistinctandhighlyconspicuouswayofdressing andeveryoneranforcover DetailedReading DR p3btext Payingnoattentionwhatevertonipped inwaistlines vividturtlenecks longhairwithsideburns andbell bottomtrouserscouldnotguaranteeanycomfyanonymity butratherstampedoneasaconvincedfolloweroftheoldorder thusaddingthreeorfourdangerousnewmeaningstoalltheformerlyreliablesignals Alookinthemirrorsuddenlyrevealedmantohimselfwearinghisobviouschainsandshackles hopelesslyunliberated DetailedReading DR p4atext 4 Ingeneral menofallagesturnoutnottowanttogiveupthehabitoffixingonasuitableself imageandthencarefullytendingit insteadoftakingupallthenewoptions Itseemstoomuchofastraintodressforallthatcomplexmultiplerole playing likewomen Thecreativeuseofmaleplumageforsexualdisplay afterall hashadaverythintimeforcenturies thewholehabitbecamethespecialprerogativeofcertainclearlydefinedgroups eversincetheoverridingpurposeofmaledresshadbeenestablishedasthatofpreciseidentification DetailedReading DR p4btext Nosteppingovertheboundarieswasthinkable ruffledeveningshirtswereforthem notme andthefearofthewrongassociationswasthestrongestmaleemotionaboutclothes notthesmallestpartbeingfearofassociationwiththewrongsex DetailedReading DR p5atext 5 Thedifferencebetweenmen sandwomen sclothesusedtobeaneasymatterfromeverypointofview allthemoresowhenthesametailorsmadeboth Whenlongagoallelegantpeopleworebrightlycoloredsatin lace andcurls nobodyhadanytroublesortingoutthesexesorworryingwhethercertainsmallelementsweresexuallyappropriate Souniversalwastheskirtedfemaleshapeandthebifurcatedmaleonethatawomaninmen sclotheswascompletelydisguised andlonghairorgaudytrimmingswerenevertheissue DetailedReading DR p5btext Itwasthe19thcentury whichproducedthelookofthedifferentsexescomingfromdifferentplanets thatlastedsuchaverylongtime Italsogavemenofficialexemptionfromfashionrisk andofficialsanctiontolaughatwomenforperpetuallyincurringit DetailedReading DR p6atext 6 Womenapparentlylovetherisk ofcourse andignorethelaughter Mensecretlyhateitanddreadtheverypossibilityofasmile Mostofthemfinditimpossibletoleapbackwardacrossthetraditionalcenturiesintoacomfortablerenaissancezestforthesedangers sincelifeishardenoughnowanyway Moreover alongwithfashioncamethepitilessexposureofmasculinenarcissismandvanity solongsubmergedandundiscussed Menhadlostthehabitofhavingtheirconcernwithpersonalappearanceshowasblatantlyaswomen s thegreatdandiesprovidednocontinuingtradition exceptperhapsamongurbanblacks DetailedReading DR p6btext Menformerlyfreefromdoubtworetheirnewfinerywithcolossalself consciousness staringcovertlyateveryoneelsetofindoutwhatthescorereallywasaboutallthisstuff Highheelsandplatformsoles oncewornbytheSunKingandothercultivatedgentlemenofthepast havebeenappropriatedonlybythosewillingtochangenotonlytheirheightsbuttheirwayofwalking Theyhavebeenruledout alongwiththewaist lengthshirtopeningthatexposestrinketsnestlingagainstthechesthair bymenwhoneverthelessfindthemselveswillingtowearlonghairandfurcoatsandcarryhandbags Skirts Ineednotadd nevercaughton DetailedReading DR p1Analysis Paragraph1AnalysisThefirstparagraphtellsusthatpriortothemid 1960salargenumberofmenfeltincertainrespectsmoreuneasyaboutwhattowear thoughthelimitedchoicestheyhadtomakealwayshadanabsoluteandenormousmeaningintheworldofmen anidentifyingstampusuallyincomprehensibletofemalejudgment DetailedReading DR p2 5Analysis Paragraphs2 5AnalysisParagraphs2 5 themainpartoftheexpositiveessay firstinformusthatithadneverbeenveryhardformentodressthemselvesuntiltheearly1960s whentherateofchangeinmasculinefashionacceleratedwithdisconcertingviolence sheddinganewlightonallthesteadyoldarrangements andmenfounditimpossibletoignorethechanges Next thissectionillustratesthefactthatingeneral menofallageswanttoretainthehabitportrayingasuitableself imageandthencarefullytendingit Then thewritergoesontoexplainthatthedifferencebetweenmen sandwomen sclothesusedtobeaneasymatterfromeverypointofview DetailedReading DR p6Analysis Paragraphs6AnalysisParagraph6 thelastsectionoftheessay firstoffersreasonswhymenhatefashionrisksandthenproceedstodescribemasculinefashionpreferencesandtheirpurposesinthecontemporaryage DetailedReading DR Questions p1 a DetailedReading Paragraph1 Questions 1 Whatdoyouknowaboutmen sandwomen schoicesofclothesinthe1960s Men schoiceofclotheswasquitelimited Menhadonlyasmallrangeofpossiblealternatives Incontrast womenhadahugerangeofpersonallyacceptablepossibilities Thechoicesmenhadtomakeneverlookedverymomentoustoafeminineeyeaccustomedtoalargerangeofpersonallyacceptablealternatives buttheyalwayshadanabsolutelyenormousmeaningintheworldofmen DR Questions p1 b DetailedReading Paragraph1 Questions 2 Whydidthechoicesmenmadehaveanenormousmeaningintheworldofmen Becausetheymarkedorembodiedmen sindividualidentity DR Question P2 DetailedReading Paragraph2 Question Inwhatwayisthestatement menknewhowluckytheywere true Menknewtheywerelucky foritwasrathereasyforthemtodressthepartofthemselvessincetheirwivesandmotherscouldbetrainedtorejectallseductivebutincorrectchoicesofdressingtoavoidthewrongflavorofspiritualoutlook thewronglevelofeducation orthewrongsortofmalebonding DR Question P3 DetailedReading Paragraph3 Question Whatcanyouinferaboutmasculinefashioninthe1960s Nipped inwaistlines vividturtlenecks longhairwithsideburns andbell bottomtrousersconstitutedthetypicalmasculinefashioninthe1960s Thosewhoignoredthispopularfashionwerestampedasconvincedfollowersoftheoldorder Menfounditimpossibletoresistthechanges andtheyhadtofollowthepopularfashion DR Question P4 Whatdoestheexpression todressforallthatcomplexmultiplerole playing imply DetailedReading Paragraph4 Question Theexpressionimpliesmuchofman sstrainfacedwithabroadeningrangeofchoicelongfamiliartowomen DR Question P5 DetailedReading Paragraph5 Question Whydidthewritersaythatthedifferencebetweenmen sandwomen sclothesusedtobeaneasymatterfromeverypointofview Thewritersaidsobecauseclotheswornbymenandwomenusedtobesosexuallydistinctivethattherewasnotroubleforanyonetotellthedifference DR Question P6a DetailedReading Paragraph6 Questions 1 Whydomensecretlyhatefashionrisks Accordingtothelastparagraph mensecretlyhatefashionrisksforthefollowingreasons First mostmenfinditimpossibletoleapbackwardacrossthetraditionalcenturiesintoacomfortablerenaissancezestforthesedangers sincelifeisdifficultenoughnowadays Secondly alongwithfashioncamethepitilessexposureofmasculinenarcissismandvanity solongsubmergedandunknown Thirdly menhadlostthehabitofshowingtheirconcernforpersonalappearance DR Question P6b Fourthly menformerlyfreefromdoubtworetheirnewfinerywithimmenseself consciousness staringcovertlyateveryoneelsetofindoutwhatthescorereallywasaboutallthisstuff DetailedReading DR Question P6c 2 Inwhatwaywastheexposureofmasculinenarcissismandvanitypitiless DetailedReading Paragraph6 Questions Alongwiththefashionboom men snarcissismandvanity submergedandneglectedforlong wasmercilesslydisclosed fortheynowworetheirnewfashionableclotheswithenormousself consciousness staringcovertlyateveryoneelsetofindoutitseffect DR Question P6d DetailedReading Paragraph6 Questions 3 Whatdoyouknowaboutthemenreferredtoattheendofthetext Menwhosuddenlyfindthattheyarequitewillingtowearlonghairandfurcoatsandcarryhandbagshaveexcludedshoeswithhighheelsandplatformsolesandgotridofthewaist lengthshirtopeningthatexposestrinketslyingembeddedagainstthechesthair LPT theideathatonemightagonize DetailedReading Theideathatonemightagonizeoverwhethertogrowsideburnsorweartrousersofaradicallydifferentshapehadneveroccurredtoawholegeneration Paraphrase Awholegenerationhadneverthoughtthatonemightsufferextremeagonyaboutwhethertogrowsideburnsorweartrousersofacompletelydifferentshape LPT agonize DetailedReading agonizev to causesb to suffergreatpain anxietyorworryintenselyaboutsth e g Thewomanagonizedaboutherchild ssafety Heagonizedhimselfwiththethoughtofhispossiblefailureintheexamination LPT sideburns DetailedReading sideburnsn patchesofhairgrowingonthesideofaman sfaceinfrontoftheears e g Hissideburnsgrowluxuriantly whichmakesiteasytorecognizehim LPT radically DetailedReading radicallyadv fundamentally thoroughly completely drastically e g Everythinghasbeenchangingradically Terrorismisreportedtobeworseningradically LPT beforethemid60s DetailedReading Beforethemid 60swhethertowearatiewasthemostdramaticsartorialproblem everythingelsewasasubtlematterofsurfacevariation Paraphrase Beforethemid 60swhethertowearatiewasthemostnoticeablechoiceformentomakeabout tailored clothing everythingelsewasadelicatematterofchoosingbetweenseeminglyhardlynoticeabledifferencesinappearance LPT sartorial DetailedReading sartorialadj fml usu ofmen sclothes oforrelatingtoatailororawayofdressing Hissartorialeleganceleftadeepimpressiononme Theman ssartorialcasualnessonsuchaformaloccasionshockedalmosteveryonepresent e g LPT subtle DetailedReading subtleadj fine delicate noteasytodetectordescribe ingenious organizedinacleverandcomplexway sensitive abletoseeanddescribefineanddelicatedifferences e g Shehasasubtlecharmandasubtlehumor Thereisasubtledistinctionbetweenthetwosynonyms LPT variation DetailedReading variationn adifferencebetweensimilarthings orachangefromtheusualamount e g Priceshavenotshownmuchvariationthisyear Currencyexchangeratesarealwayssubjecttovariation LPT womenhavebeensoaccustomedto DetailedReading Womenhavebeensoaccustomedtodealingwithextremefashionforsolongthat includingtheirownwillingnesstoresistorconformandalltheprobablemasculineresponses Paraphrase Womenhavebeensousedtohandlingextremetrendsforsuchalongtime thattheyareunconsciouslyreadyforwhateveriscomingnext Forexample theyarenaturallyliabletorejectoracceptextremefashion andtheyareautomaticallypreparedforallthepossibleresponsesfrommen LPT automatically DetailedReading automaticallyadv ofamachine workingbyitselfwithoutdirecthumancontrol inaself regulatingmanner ofactions donewithoutthinking esp fromhabitorroutine unconsciously e g Thewashingmachinewashesclothesautomatically Formostofusbreathingisdoneautomatically LPT brace DetailedReading bracevt tosupportsth withsth elsestrong solidand orsteady reinforce makesth firmerorstronger e g Thestrutsarefirmlybraced Webracedthesaggingbookshelfwithmorecrosspieces braceoneself tobereadyorprepareoneselfforsth difficultorunpleasant e g Braceyourselfforthebadnews Thecitybraceditselfforapossiblenewearthquake LPT conform DetailedReading conformvi tokeeptoorcomplywith generallyacceptedrules standards etc agreeorbeconsistentwithsth e g Thisbuildingdoesnotconformtosafetyregulations Theirdeedsdonotconformtotheirwords LPT masculine DetailedReading masculineadj oforcharacteristicofmen havingthequalitiesorappearancethoughttobetypicalofmen manly vigorous suitableformen grammar referringtothemalegender e g Hiscolognewassubtle spicy andmasculine Shehasmasculinelooksandattitudes Actorandtigerarebothmasculinenouns LPT allthedelicateshades DetailedReading Allthedelicateshadesofsignificanceexpressedbythesmallrangeofpossiblealternativesusedtobeabsorbingenough Double orsingle breastedcut Sportsjacketandslacksorasuit Shoeswithplainorwingtip Paraphrase Allthesubtledegreesofsignificancemadeknownorconveyedbythelimitednumberofalternativeswereoftendifficultenoughinthepast Whichdoyouprefer adouble orsingle breastedcoat Doyouwantasportsjacketandslacksorasuit Whichdoyoulikebetter shoeswithplainorwingtip LPT absorbing DetailedReading absorbingadj holdingone sattentionfully interestingandappealing e g Whatanabsorbingfilmitis Thescenicspotpresentsanabsorbingview LPT double breasted DetailedReading double breastedadj ofacoat etc havingtwofrontswithtwosetsofbuttonsandbuttonholes thetwofrontsoverlappinga
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