毛衫部分资料总结.doc

毛衫部分資料總結一般單位的轉換1 英寸=2.54厘米 1 斤= 500克=1.102磅 公制NM-90001 厘米=0.394寸 1 磅=0.907斤=0.454公斤 棉制S=53151 克 = 0.03526安 1 安 = 28.357克 1 克 = 0.0022磅1 磅=453.7克 1 安 =0.0625磅 1 分=0.125英寸1 英尺=12英寸=30.48厘米 1 碼=3英尺=0.914米 1寸=2碼=1.829米1 英里=1.609公里毛衫一般問題中英文對照1. hand stitching 挑撞A. Incorrect hand stitch count 挑錯針數B. Rib collar of V-point not match V領尖不對支C. Poor trimming 拆紗不良導至抽筋D. Loose on collar stitch out of trimming 拆紗線沒拉眼E. Absence trimming 收漏線頭F. Uneven linking at neckline 領邊縫線鬆緊不均勻2. mending 查補A. Wrong material 用錯原料B. Poor done of mending 駁口不良C. Wrong color to mend 用錯色紗3. collar 領A. Collar too loose 領貼過鬆B. Collar too tight 領貼過緊C. Un-center 不正中D. Uneven collar point 領尖不對稱E. Poor bowing 卷邊不好4. pockets / flaps 袋A. High-low 高低B. Missing / misplaced 位置不對C. Poor shape 形狀不好D. Mismatched stripes 不對間色E. Mismatched color 不配色F. Poor pocket placket 袋貼不好5. print 印花A. Poor print recistation 印花不好B. Set marks 兩節色C. Poor recovery of bottom / cuff 有額外印花印在衫腳上 / 袖咀6. color 顏色A. Uneven dye color marks 染色不均 / 有染色印B. Mismatch of trimming 物料不配色C. Color shade 色差7. Zipper 拉鏈A. Defective 次品B. Mismatch 不配色C. Too long or too short 太長 / 短D. Pullness / twisted / Puckering 凸出 / 吊起 / 起蛇E. Zipper show out 拉鏈牙外露F. Misaligned at fly 高低腳 / 位G. Hidden zipper 拉鏈不露牙H. Two way zipper 雙頭拉鏈8. button 鈕扣A. Poor matching color 不配色B. Unsecured 釘不緊C. Missing / misplaced 漏 / 錯位D. Defective 次E. Thread not match 打鈕線不配鈕色9. placket 胸貼A. Crooked 胸貼邊不直(即谷筒邊)B. Unclose under placker 露底貼C. Puckered 起蛇D. Stripes / flails misaligned 間色 / 格子不對稱E. Misaligned conspicuous 嚴重長短腳F. Uneven woven patch at placket 貼底布不均勻10. washing 洗水A. Hand-feel not smoothly 手感不夠滑B. Poor hand-feel too harsh 手感太硬C. Bleeding 滲色D. Poor hand-feel too soft 手感太軟11. fabric 布片A. V-inset too small 前中布太小B. Uneven V-inset 前中布不平均C. V-inset not center 前中布不正中D. Underarm gusset too small 袖底配色布太少E. Underarm gusset uneven 袖底配色布太不平均F. Wrong fabric 錯布12. embroidery 車花A. Embroidery position too high 車花位太高B. Embroidery Position too low 車花位置太低C. Embroidery unclean thread end 車花縫線不凈D. Embroidery upside down 車倒花E. Misplaced 車錯花位F. Density not as specified 車花線疏密不符要求G. Clean inside workmanship from embroidery 去掉車花稿紙H. Crystal modification 燙石13. elastic 丈根A. Missing elastic 漏丈根B. Elastic too loose / too tight 太松 / 太緊C. Elastic not match 丈根不配色D. Missing nylon 漏尼龍E. Nylon not match 尼龍不配色14. pressing 燙衫A. Sheen / glass 起鏡B. Poor pressing 燙工不好C. Twisted side-seam 側骨扭骨D. Twisted underarm 袖底骨扭骨E. Twisted shoulder 膊位扭骨F. Shoulder head not smooth 膊頭啄起G. Uneven collar 領形不順不對稱15. Hang-tag 挂牌A. Wrong placement 牌挂錯位置B. Missing hang-tags 漏挂牌C. Wrong hang-tags 挂錯牌16. labeling 車嘜A. unsecured 沒車牢固B. Defective 嘜頭車/釘工不靖C. Missing / upside down 嘜頭車漏 / 車倒D. Wrong size / content 錯碼 / 錯成份嘜E. Un-center 不正中F. Missing edge stitch 漏邊針G. Missing (care / c.o)label 漏車洗水嘜 / 產地嘜H. Missing main label 漏車主嘜17. cover-locking 嵌骨A. Uneven cover-locking 嵌骨不均勻B. Puckering at a/h & cuff / hem 夾位/袖咀位/衫腳位嵌骨起蛇C. Cover-locking thread not match 嵌骨線不配色D. Cover-locking not straight 嵌骨線不直E. Loose stitch tension 嵌骨線太鬆18. packing 包裝A. Poor folding 折不好B. Wrong size scale 錯碼搭配C. Carton too loose / tight 紙箱太鬆 / 太緊D. Pre-pack 比例E. Assortment 顏色, 尺碼 / 分配19. weight 重量A. Lighten-weight 輕B. Heavy-weight 重20. knitting 織機A. Knitting panel 手機片B. Broken end defects, yarn breaking defects 斷紗C. Yarn withdrawn 抽紗D. Yarn thinning 幼毛E. Needle defects / drop stitch 漏針F. Uneven yarn 粗幼毛G. Impurities of yarn 雜質H. Wrong pattern 錯片I. Uneven knitting tension 字碼不均J. Dirty yarn 臟毛K. Single yarn 單毛H. Weave flaws 織布疵點L. Grain direction 羅紋方向J. Gutter 落坑21. over-locking 鈒骨A. Puckering 起蛇B. Mismatch of thread 縫線不配衫身色C. Missing over-locking 漏鈒骨線D. Open seam 散口E. Stitch not as specified 針數不對22. appearance 外觀A. Sharp point in sleeve head 袖(膊頭位)啄起B. Shoulder yoke not balance 膊兩邊不對稱C. Shoulder seam should be straight 膊頭縫線不平直D. Poor placket linking 胸貼縫工不好E. Poor under placket of bottom 胸貼衫腳位做工不好F. Unbalance placket 胸貼兩邊不對稱G. Twisting sleeve 袖扭骨H. Pocketing show out 口袋外露I. Tighten a/h tension & straight a/h seam 袖 / 夾邊過緊J. Poor sleeve shape 袖形不好23. linking 縫盤A. Dropped stitch 漏眼B. Incorrect course 笠錯橫行C. Broken selvedge 崩邊D. Selvage not straight 邊不直E. Poor matching on cuff or bottom 對位不符F. Uneven seam of collar 領貼子口不均勻G. Twist collar 上領扭紋H. Puckering at seam 縫線起蛇I. Wrong position of needle and point 鋤歪眼J. Stitch on the higher position 鋤太高K. Uneven yarn tension 縫線鬆緊不均勻L. Unwanted loose stitch / loose loops 起耳仔M. Drop stitch 跳線N. Linking seam at armhole is too much visible 夾位露縫線24. DYE 染衫A. Piece Dye 件染B. Dip Dye 吊染25. The others 其它A. Flabby tension 字碼偏疏B. Hiking up at central front 前中吊起C. Density full fashion 急收花D. Hand-feel too harsh 手感鞋手(即粗糙)E. Hand-feel too soft 手感太軟F. Neck line stand out 領形不順或領形啄起G. Wrong dye-lot 錯缸H. Measurement out of tolerance 尺偏差太大I. Visible knot 明顯線頭J. Armhole fraying 夾圈散口K. Collar edge is not too inelastic 領頂過緊(無彈性)L. Laid flat 放平毛衫部分做法中英文對照1. Jersey knit / plain 單邊2. Reverse jersey 反底單邊3. Jersey roll 單邊卷邊4. Tubular 圓筒5. Full needle 四平6. Half milano 三平7. Cast off 套針8. Milano / full milano 打雞9. Full cardigan 柳條10. Half cardigan 珠地11. Jacquard 撥花12. Intarsia 無底毛撥花13. Intarsta 挂毛 14. Ottoman 谷波15. Rib 坑條16. 11 Single 11 單 17. Flat back 底密針18. Links 令士19. Deminauations 收花20. Full fashion 收花21. Diminution / dart 搬針22. Cross stitch 搭針23. Cable 扭繩24. lace / eyelet 挑窿 25. Self start 原身出26. Clean finish 原身較結27. Crossing rib V-tip v領尖位做搭坑/針28. Tight tension 字碼較結29. Tatting 梭織法30. Crochet 鎖邊31. Hand crochet 手勾邊32. Hand stitch 手釘33. Bar tack 機釘34. Over lock / Bar tack 鈒骨35. Cover stitch / Flat lock 嵌蝦鬆36. Embroidery 車花37. Drop stitch 放針38. Mitred 挑杏嘴39. Rivet 撞釘40. Bead 釘珠41. Pleat 打褶 42. Mending 查補43. Light-inspection 照燈44. Knitting 織衫45. Linking 縫衫46. Sewing 車線47. Start-over 駁線48. Shave 修剪49. Washing 洗水50. Pressing 燙衫51. Over-lap 胸貼 / 領貼重搭52. Printing 印花53. Dye 染色54. Stripe / Contrast color 間色55. Tip 撞色56. Plaited 嵌毛57. Twisted 拼毛58. Miscellancous 混雜59. Encase 包入60. Shrink 收縮61. Mutilate 使殘缺62. Whip 緊繞於某物上/包縫毛衫部分名詞中英文對照1. Cardigan 開胸衫2. Blouse(A) / pullover(E) 過頭笠3. Vest / Tank / Top 背心4. Coat 褸5. Blazer 外套衫6. Skirt 裙7. Shirt / Sweater (粗針男裝過頭笠)男裝衫8. Pant / Trousers 褲9. Plus fours 燈籠褲10. Thigh 膝11. Breast / half bust / chest 胸12. Bust 胸圍13. Front rise 前浪14. Crotch point 浪底15. Back rise 后浪16. Long sleeve 長袖17. Short sleeve 短袖18. Cap sleeve 雞翼袖19. Raglan / Saddle (尖/馬鞍)膊20. Curve armhole 彎夾21. Armhole 夾22. Under-arm 夾底23. Forearm 袖肚24. Bottom / hem 腳25. Calf 小腿26. Sleeve cap 袖山27. Epaulet 肩章28. Elbow 肘29. Cuff 袖咀30. Collar point 領尖31. Collar point spread 領尖距32. Stole 披肩33. Scarf 圍巾34. Apron 圍裙35. Belt 腰帶36. Fabric 布片37. Panel 衫片38. Loop 耳仔39. Hook 蝴蝶扣40. Hat 有帽沿的帽41. Hood 兜帽42. Slanted welt pocket 斜袋43. Piped pocket 無蓋暗袋44. Side pocket 插袋45. Tiny pocket 小口袋46. Pearl button 殼鈕47. Imitative pearl button 仿殼鈕48. Jean button 牛仔鈕49. Pressing button 鉑鈕50. Metallic button 金屬扣51. Sequin 珠片52. Lining 裡布53. Detachable collar 假領54. Mock neck 企領55. Turtle neck 樽領56. Cowl neck 大樽領57. Round neck 圓領58. Scoop neck 大圓領59. Crew / boat neck 船領60. Polo collar 反領61. Square neck 方領62. Horizontal neck 一字領63. Technique 織法64. Diagram 圖表 / 參考圖片65. Shoulder tap 膊帶66. Transparent tap 透明膊帶67. Twill tape 人字 / 斜紋織帶68. Drill 斜紋布 / 卡其布69. Denim 斜紋棉布70. Canvas 粗帆布71. Serge 嗶嘰72. Welt 貼邊 / 滾條73. Strap 吊帶74. Shoulder pad 膊棉75. Knitting paper 嚇數紙76. Half moon / Yoke 龜背 / 擔干77. Sketch 附圖78. Crepe 雪紡紗79. Chiffon 雪紡紗80. Foam 海綿81. Satin 綢緞82. Hang tag 挂牌83. Pin 扣針84. Cordage 繩索85. Beige ground 底色為杏色86. Agate 瑪瑙袖 形1. 德而曼袖(Dolman sleeve):整個上身連袖都在分寬大, 袖闊寬大得幾乎到腰部2. 蝙蝠袖(Batwing)袖口、腰圍合身、袖底處滿3. 和服袖(Kimono sleeve)此袖有兩種: 無檔布和服袖(Basic kimono without a gusset)、加檔布和服袖(Kimono with a gusset) 檔布(gusset)指夾底袖與衫身側骨之間有一塊布稱為檔布4. 主教袖(Bishop sleeve)長袖、長至腕處或摺入袖口布.5. 襯衫袖(Shirt sleeve)襯衫袖在肩部是合袖無褶, 腕部打細褶或規則的褶與袖口布接縫, 袖口布上多有暗扣或扣子6. 鐘形袖(Bell sleeve)滿袖、形狀如鐘, 長度有至肘處也有至腕部, 有時褶子收入袖口布.7. 羊腿袖(Leg-of-Mutton)袖子肩部打褶而蓬起, 腕部則緊而舒適.8. 寶塔袖(Pagoda sleeve)形狀如中國的寶塔, 一般多為三層打褶的布與里面的合身袖子縫在一起.9. 泡泡袖(Puff sleeve)袖子短, 約在肩肘之間, 距肘處距離較短, 肩部與袖口都打很多褶10. 汽球袖(Melon sleeve)袖子自肩以下長至肘部, 通常在袖子里有隱藏的長襯里來維持形狀.11. 燈籠袖(Lantern sleeve)如同燈籠狀, 上下窄而中間寬大, 且寬大處必有橫向的接縫線.12. 披肩袖(Circular cape)袖口寬大, 形成波紋褶, 此种袖形多用斜布裁剪.常見毛料中英文對照YARNTUSSASH SILK柞絹絲VISCOSE人造絲DULL RAYON啞光絲RAYON光絲RAW SILK生 絲MONO-FILAMENT單股長絲MULTI-FILAMENT多股長絲COTTON棉RAYON/SPUN RAYON人造棉RAW COTTON原棉FILAMENT RAYON長人造棉MERCERIZE絲光棉COMBED COTTON精梳棉CARDED COTTON普梳棉TENCEL長人造棉PIMA COTTON比馬棉絮一種美國棉RAMIE麻LINEN檸麻ABACA呂宗麻, 馬尼拉麻WOOL羊毛LAMBSWOOL羊仔毛SUNDAY ANGORA假兔毛ANGORA/RABBIT HAIR兔毛ALPACA駝毛SHELTED WOOL雪來毛MOHAIR馬海毛CASHMERE茄士咩DE-HAIR兔毛WORSTED 精紡毛料POLYESTER人造纖維SPANDEX彈性纖維SYNTHETIC混合纖維NATURAL FABRIC天然纖維/天然布料ACRYLIC人造毛NYLON尼龍METALLIC金銀線LUREX金線MODAL RAYON莫代爾LYCRA拉架一般常見拉架中, 尼龍與彈性纖維比例如下:L2070 拉架尼龍 84%彈性纖維 16% (84D)WL2070 拉架尼龍 85%彈性纖維 15% (83D)M2070 拉架尼龍 88%彈性纖維 12% (79.5D)SN2070 拉架尼龍 89.5%彈性纖維 10.5% (79D)N2070 拉架尼龍 92%彈性纖維 8% (77D)L2030 拉架尼龍 69%彈性纖維 31% (44D)毛衫度尺方法1. Body Length 領邊度 From HSP后中縫線度 From Center Back2. Body / Chest / Bust Width 胸闊 (正常在夾下1度)3. Shoulder Width 膊闊線至線 Seam to Seam4. Waist Width 腰闊 領邊下16(正常) From HSP 165. Bottom / Sweep Width 腳闊6. Bottom Height and Type 腳高及類型圓筒 Tubular11單起或坑條起 11 Single單邊卷起 Jersey Roll原身起 Self-Start7. Armhole 夾闊(直夾, 彎夾, 入夾)直度 Straight斜度 Depth彎度 Curve8. Muscle 袖闊 夾過1度9. Sleeve Length 袖長后領中度 From Center Back Neck膊尾度 Over arm夾底度 Under arm10. Cuff opening 袖嘴闊邊度11. Cuff Height and Type 袖嘴高及種類圓筒 Tubular11 單起或坑條起 11 Single單邊卷起 Jersey Roll原身起 Self-Start12. Collar Width 領闊外度 / 線至線 Outside / Seam to Seam內度 / 邊至邊 Inside / Edge to Edge.13. Front Neck Drop 前領深膊至線 HSP to Seam膊至頂 HSP to Top頂至頂 Top to Top平線至頂 Imaginary Line to Top膊至鈕中 HSP to Button14. Back Neck Drop 后領深膊至線 HSP to Seam膊至頂 HSP to Top平線至頂 Imaginary Line to Top15. Collar Height and Type 領貼高及种類圓筒坑條雙坑條單16. Round / Crew Neck 圓領四平領三平領打雞領裁剪領后領高 Back Neck Height領嘴長 Collar Spread領尖距 Collar Point17. Polo Neck 反領上級領 Upper Collar下級領 Lower Collar18. Pants and Skirts 褲和半截裙19. Body Length 長度褲頭縫線下 Excluding Waist Band褲頭頂下 Including Waist Band外側骨 Outseam內側骨 Inseam20. Waist Width 腰闊鬆度 Relaxed拉開度 Strethed21. Hip Width 坐圍(正常在褲頭縫線下8)直度V度22. Front / Back Rise 前 / 后浪褲頭縫線下褲頭頂下23. Thigh 脾圍 浪底度( at crotch point)24. Mid-Thigh 膝圍 (內側骨長度1/2度)25. Bottom Height and Type 褲腳高及類型圓筒起坑條起(如11起)原身起26. Bottom Width 腳闊直度 Straight沿邊度 Along Edge27. Placket Width and Type 胸貼闊及種類包縫 (1). 圓筒 (2). 坑條(雙)托底 (1). 四平貼卷起 (2). 單邊卷起 (3). 絲貼 原身出28. Pocket Size and Type 口袋尺寸及種類明袋 暗袋 假袋 袋布 袋貼29. Pocket Position 口袋位置領邊下 From HSP前中邊 From Center Front衫腳上 From Bottom30. Side Slit 腳叉高度種類 (1).包縫 (2).托底 (3).原身出PULLOVER + CARDIGAN + DRESS: 過頭笠 + 開胸 + 長裙CHEST 胸闊BODY LENGTH 身長SLEEVE LENGTH 袖長NECK WIDTH 領闊NECK DROP FRONT 前領深NECK DROP BACK 后領深NECK BAND / COLLAR 領邊BICEPS 袖闊ARMHOLE 夾闊SHOULDER 膊闊BOTTOM WIDTH 腳闊BOTTOM RIB / BOTTOM HEIGHT 腳高CUFF WIDTH 袖咀高POCKET 口袋PLACKET 胸貼SLIT 開義WAIST 腰闊WAIST BELT 腰帶2. TROUSERS + PANTS 長褲 + 短褲WAIST WIDTH 褲頭闊WAIST BAND 褲頭高LENGTH 褲長FRONT RISE 前浪深BACK RISE 后浪深HIPS 坐圍BOTTOM 腳圍BOTTOM RIB / BOTTOM HEIGHT 腳高3. SKIRT 短裙 (半截裙)LENGTH 裙長WAIST WIDTH 腰闊WAIST BAND 裙