专业外语ch22

1、CHAPTER 22Other Fabric Construction Processes2021-10-161WORDS LISTnKey words全部nNew words 2，6，7，9，12，18，20，26，27，31，34，36，57，61，69-71，73，74，82，83，91，100，103，105，115，121，122，124，125，132。2021-10-162nThe five major classifications of fabric construction discussed in this chapter arenmulticomponent fabri

2、cs, (多组分织物)nnarrow fabrics, (带; 狭幅织物）nopen-mesh constructions, （不紧密，稀疏的）nstitch bonding（缝编法）（缝编法）, nand tufting. （簇绒）nOf the five, tufting is the most important commercially because of its dominance in carpet and rug production.2021-10-163Multicomponent Fabrics A multicomponent fabric is one in whic

3、h at least two layers of material or fabric have been combined to produce a new product with properties significantly different from those of its component parts. The components may be intimately密切地 joined to produce a material from which it is difficult to separate them, or it may be a loosely join

4、ed material in which the components retain their original forms. The major multicomponent fabrics are bonded fabrics(粘合粘合织物织物), laminated fabrics（层压织物）（层压织物）, foam-backed fabrics（泡沫塑料衬里织物）（泡沫塑料衬里织物）, and quilted fabrics（衲缝织物）（衲缝织物）.2021-10-164Multicomponent Fabricsnbonded fabrics(粘合织物粘合织物), nlaminat

5、ed fabrics（层压织物）（层压织物）, nfoam-backed fabrics（泡沫塑料衬里织物（泡沫塑料衬里织物）nquilted fabrics（衲缝织物）（衲缝织物）2021-10-165BONDED AND LAMINATED FABRICS A bonded fabric is a layered structure in which a face, or shell, fabric is joined to a backing fabric 衬里,底布with an adhesive that does not significantly add to the thick

6、ness of the combined fabrics. Such structures are used for design interest as well as fabric stabilization. The iron-on interfacings（衬（衬头头放在外层织物和衬里之间，起加固或硬挺作用放在外层织物和衬里之间，起加固或硬挺作用-粘合衬）粘合衬） discussed in Chapter 21, as well as some of the artificial leather products, could be classified as bonded fabri

7、cs.2021-10-166nBonded fabric2021-10-167 The bonding may be done with an aqueous（水的，水成的） acrylic adhesive (Figure 22.1), a latex（植植化化乳汁，乳乳汁，乳胶，橡胶）胶，橡胶） adhesive such as an acrylate（丙稀酸盐，丙稀酸脂）, a vinyl chloride （乙烯基） or acetate （此处省略用法，即vinyl acetate 醋酸乙烯脂）, or a thermosetting（热硬化性的，热固性的）（热硬化性的，热固性的）

8、resin. 2021-10-168 The end-use performance of the bonded product depends on the strength of the bond formed between the two fabric layers. A fabric resembling woven double cloth can be produced by joining two face fabrics to provide a reversible fabric. In some instances, a lining fabric is bonded t

9、o a face fabric to simplify garment construction. Scrim fabrics(稀松窗帘用布，平纹棉麻织物) such as tricot knits(特里科经编织物；经平组织针) and gauze（薄纱，医用纱布） are also bonded to face fabrics to provide stability to the face fabric. This process has been used on loosely woven mohair马海毛 fabrics and on fabrics constructed from

10、 bulky novelty yarns, to prevent yarn slippage and fabric distortion（扭曲，变形，曲解，失真）（扭曲，变形，曲解，失真）.2021-10-169nLaminated fabrics combine layers of fabric and foam. The product may be a single layer of fabric bonded to a foam layer (a foam-backed fabric泡沫塑料衬里织物泡沫塑料衬里织物), or it may be a sandwich laminate,

11、 in which the foam layer is bonded between two fabric layers. The primary purpose of the foam layer is to provide insulation for warmth, and the end uses for such products include cold-weather apparel and insulated window coverings. The completed fabric is often bulky, with poor draping qualities.20

12、21-10-1610nlaminated fabrics (foam-backed)2021-10-1611 The foam may also serve as the adhesive agent (Figure 22.2 ). The surface of the foam is heated to provide a tacky（有些粘的） surface that will adhere to the face fabric(s), and then the layers are pressed together and allowed to cool and cure（v.治愈，治

13、疗，硫化治愈，治疗，硫化 n.治愈，痊愈治愈，痊愈 硫化硫化 熟化熟化 固化）固化）. Adhesives similar to those used in fabric-to-fabric bonding are also used. Again, the end-use performance of the laminate depends on the strength of the fabric-to-foam bond.2021-10-1612nLaminated neoprene(氯丁（二烯）橡胶) diving suit2021-10-1613QUILTED FABRICS衲缝织

14、物衲缝织物nTraditional QuiltingnTrapunto:提花垫纬凸纹布的一种衍缝物，图案是用两排或两排以上的平缝针缝出的，然后再在底面加入衬垫物，以达到凸起的效果nOutline QuiltingnChemical QuiltingnUltrasonic Bonding2021-10-1614nTwo or more fabric layers may be joined by stitching to produce a quilted fabric. The term stitching should be broadly defined to include the in

15、termittent(间歇的，断断续续的) joining of fabric, by hand or machine sewing, chemical point bonding, and ultrasonic point bonding（超声波点粘合）. Fabrics quilted with both simple and more complex patterns are available.2021-10-1615Traditional Quilting The traditional quilts stitched by hand had three layers: a face

16、 fabric, a fiber batt(棉絮) or feather（n.翎毛，轻的东西，羽毛翎毛，轻的东西，羽毛 vi.长羽毛长羽毛 vt. 用羽毛装用羽毛装饰，射掉（飞禽）的羽毛）饰，射掉（飞禽）的羽毛） filling for warmth, and a backing fabric. Hand-sewn quilts are still produced as craft（工艺，手艺）（工艺，手艺） items and machine-sewn products are also available (Figure 22.3). Such products are used pri

17、marily for bed coverings, but quilted apparel, upholstery fabric, and items such as pot-holders罐盖 are available as well. 2021-10-1616Trapunto提花垫纬凸纹布nTrapunto is a type of quilting in which a design or pattern is outlined with stitches and then stuffed with fibers (or fiberfill纤维填塞物) to form a high r

18、elief地貌,轮廓突出 effect. Such designs are periodically fashionable in apparel and upholstery.2021-10-1617trapunto2021-10-1618Outline Quilting Outline quilting is a technique that stitches an outline around a printed design motif（主题，图形） to form a quilted fabric. Custom（定制的，定做的）（定制的，定做的） bedspreads 床单,床罩a

19、nd comforters（羊毛围巾，盖被（羊毛围巾，盖被） of chintz(印花棉布，亦作chints) or other printed fabrics often are made in this manner. Outline quilting is also called custom quilting.2021-10-1619Chemical Quilting Quilted products can also be produced by joining fabric layers with an adhesive or a thermoplastic bonding age

20、nt. This process called chemical quilting, is more popular for joining two fabrics than for joining three layers. The trade name Chemstitch（化学缝编）（化学缝编） is used for a process that produces a fabric by joining two fabrics with different thermal stabilities. The two layers are spot welded点焊接 to produce

21、 a design, then subjected to heat, which shrinks one layer more than the other and produces a fabric with a rippled波纹,起波纹or crinkled 皱纹,起皱surface (Figure 22.4).2021-10-1620Ultrasonic BondingnUltrasonic energy can be used to join thermoplastic materials and produce a product similar to machine-stitch

22、ed quilting. The trade name Pinsonic is used for one such process. Ultrasonic energy is mechanical vibratory（振动的） energy produced at frequencies beyond the level of audible sound, usually 20 to 40 kHz. The vibration produces enough intermolecular mechanical stress to cause polymer melting and provid

23、e a tacky有些粘的 surface that can adhere to another surface. The two layers are pressed together in a pattern that can be made to resemble real stitches( Figure 22.5). Ultrasonic bonding can be accomplished at high speeds and is less damaging to fibers than thermal bonding.2021-10-1621nUltrasonic Bondi

24、ng打孔2021-10-1622nMattress pads 床垫and bedspreads床单,床罩 are frequently produced by ultrasonic quilting. Other applications include upholstery fabrics, quilted apparel fabrics, and nonwoven fabric webs for some industrial markets.2021-10-1623Narrow Fabrics带,狭幅织物nNarrow fabrics are broadly defined as tho

25、se less than 300 mm (12in.) in width. They can be produced by braiding编,编织,编带, knitting, waving, or any other fabric-forming technique. Some narrow fabrics are produced in narrow widths, others are made from wide fabrics cut to the desired widths. Narrow fabric products include braids编织物, Ribbons缎带,

26、丝带, tapes带子, and webbings带子,边带,厚实结实的带状织物. 2021-10-1624BRAIDED FABRICS Braided fabrics编织物 are characterized by a diagonal对角的，对角线的倾斜的,斜线的 surface effect, produced by plaiting（把打成辫） three or more yarns that originate引起,发起 from a single location and lie parallel before the intertwining occurs. The yarns

27、 intertwine（使使纠缠，纠缠，使使缠绕）缠绕） on a diagonal plane斜面 from one side to the other, producing a column of horizontal Vs. Braids are made in both flat and circular forms.2021-10-1625End Uses Circular braids appear in such everyday items as shoelaces （鞋带）（鞋带） and insulation for electric wires, but braiding

28、 techniques are also used to produce rocket nozzles火箭筒子喷嘴, parachute cords降落伞, and structural components for other industrial products. Flat braids are used for such products as decorative trims华丽的服装 and industrial belting, where a high degree of flexibility is required.2021-10-1626Open-Mesh（网眼） Con

29、structionsnTextiles characterized by an open-mesh construction can be classified as laces 饰带,花边缎带or nets. Nets网格 are open-mesh fabrics网眼with large geometric interstices（间隙，裂缝） between the yarns (Figure 22.6). Laces consist of a network of yarns formed into intricate（复杂的花样）, usually curved designs (F

30、igure 22.7) The distinctions between the two products are not obvious, and there is some overlap in the construction techniques used for them. 2021-10-1627nNETnLACEnEMBROIDERY2021-10-1628NET Early nets were made by hand-knotting yarns at each point of intersection交叉点,交集十字路口 to produce a specific geo

31、metric pattern. Prior to 1809, nets were made by hand, but in that year a new machine produced knotted nets 打结网so like hand-knotted fabrics that few people could distinguish between them. The comparatively large mesh网眼 of knotted nets does not slip, spread, or distort during use. Knotted nets are us

32、ed for hammocks（吊床）（吊床） and fishing nets.2021-10-1629 In recent years most lightweight nets have been constructed on either tricot（特里科经编织物；经平组织针） or raschel（拉舍尔） knitting machines, so the yarns are only interlooped（成圈）（成圈） and not knotted. These knitted nets（针织网眼织物）（针织网眼织物） lack the stability of tho

33、se constructed by knotting. Their primary use is in apparel, although some used as decorative window hangings. 2021-10-1630 Nets are classified as bobbinet（六角网眼（六角网眼织物，珠罗纱）织物，珠罗纱） fishnet, filet（方眼花边网（方眼花边网）, maline细丝网, or tulle(经编六角网眼织物角网眼织物). Bobbinet is a hexagonal六角 mesh that may be very thin an

34、d transparent (bridal illusion新娘透明面纱) or fairly coarse and opaque不透明 (casement cloth), depending on the yarn count of the material used to produce it. Most bobbinet sold in the United States is produced in England and France. 2021-10-1631nTulle（经编六角网眼织物角网眼织物） is a fine hexagonal net made from silk o

35、r nylon yarns. It is very similar to bobbinet（六角网眼织物，珠罗纱）六角网眼织物，珠罗纱） but lighter in weight than bridal illusion新娘透明面纱; some references do not separate bobbinet and tulle. Fishnet（网眼布，渔网） is a coarse open-mesh construction created by knotting the mesh in a manner similar to a fishermans knot. Filet（方

36、眼花边网） net is made with a square mesh, and maline net(马林丝纱罗), used in millinery(女帽), is a fine, open diamond（菱形） shape with hexagonal holes.2021-10-1632nTulle2021-10-1633nBridal illusion: A very fine, soft form of nylon tulle that is made specifically for bridal veils. It is available in a wide range

37、 of colors, and its the traditional veiling for brides in the United States. Silk tulle is available upon request. Below is an example of nylon bridal illusion worn as a blusher. 2021-10-1634nFishnet2021-10-1635nfilet方眼花边网2021-10-1636LACE Lace is an openwork fabric（透空织物）（透空织物） consisting of a networ

38、k of yarns formed into intricate designs. Lace may be hand or machine made, and intricate patterns can be produced by either technique. Both narrow and wide lace fabrics are available. The edges of the fabric may be straight or curved.2021-10-1637 Handmade laces are created by manipulating（熟练地操作，使用机

39、器等，熟练地操作，巧妙地处理） a single yarn or groups of yarns with bobbins, needles, and hooks to produce intricate stitch formations. The major classifications of handmade laces are bobbin lace（梭结花边）, crochet（钩编）, embroidered lace绣花边, needlepoint lace（针绣花边）, and tatting（梭织，梭结花边）.2021-10-1638 In 1808 John Heathc

40、ote completed a machine that manipulated yarns in three dimensions to produce knotted net. By 1813 John Leavers introduced a machine capable of interknotting（把（把结合在一起，打结，结合在一起，打结，把把连在一起）连在一起） yarns into complex designs. By 1837 Leavers and his coworkers had incorporated the principle of the Jacquard

41、 attachment to produce a wide variety of lace designs.2021-10-1639EMBROIDERYnEmbroidery is the application of yarn, thread. or floss(绣花丝线), to produce a design that stands in relief突起 on the ground fabric: it ornaments 装饰物an already existing fabric with needle work. Hand embroidery is still produced

42、 as a craft, but most embroidered fabrics are produced by machines somewhat similar to those used for creating laces (see Figure 22.9).2021-10-1640 The schiffli席佛里刺绣机,飞梭刺绣机 embroidery machine was developed in the mid-1800s. Its name is derived from the appearance of its bobbin, or shuttle, which is

43、shaped like a small boat (Schiff is German for “ship” or “boat”). Embroidery can be applied to fabric of almost any weight, and the range of patterns that can be reproduced is almost endless. Some of the products produced are appliques(贴花，嵌花，加缝刺绣), emblems（徽章）, eyelet（眼孔，孔眼，网眼，梭眼）（眼孔，孔眼，网眼，梭眼）, trap

44、unto提花垫纬纱凸纹布, and Venetian lace.（威尼斯花边）作业:阅读以下 4252 PPT内容2021-10-1641Stitch-Bonded Fabrics 缝编织物nStitch-bonded fabrics are fabrics in which fibers,. yarns, fibers and yarns, or fibers and substrate fabric are held together by stitching with some type of thread or yarn or by chemical bonding. Heinrich

45、 Mauerberger developed the first stitch-bonded structures in East Germany in the late 1940s after seeing his wife darn(织补) a tablecloth by running it under her sewing machine several times in the warp and filling directions. He patented his machine process in 1948, calling it Malimo. The machine cou

46、ld produce fabric 20 times faster than conventional methods of the time.2021-10-1642 Several methods of producing stitch-bonds fabrics have been commercialized, but they have not achieved the popularity that was predicted for them in the 1960s. The products available today can be broadly categorized

47、 as flat fabrics, which somewhat resemble conventional fabrics; pile fabrics; and fiber batts制毡毛层. 2021-10-1643 The machines, produced in East Germany and Czechoslovakia, can be grouped into three distinct types. The first stitch-bonds fabrics by sewing with thread to join yarns; the second stitch-b

48、onds fibers together without the use of yarn or thread; and the third stitch-bonds using a prefabricated（预制）预制） fabric substrate and stitching loops into the surface with threads, yarns, or slivers.2021-10-1644FABRIC CONSTRUCTRUTION PROCESSnFabrics Made with Yarns and Threads2021-10-1645 Malimo The

49、Malimo process stitches over two sheets of yarns that have been laid down perpendicular to each other; one yarn set is lying in the warp direction, and the other in the filling direction. The stitching, which resembles a chain stitch（链式针迹，链式线迹，绞花组织）（链式针迹，链式线迹，绞花组织）, holds the yarns in position. In a

50、 modification of the process, a single sheet of filling yarns is used, and the stitching yarns form the warp. New machines have been made that use two guide bars, which permits greater design capabilities. Figure 22.10 diagrams the basic steps in the manufacture of Malimo fabrics, and Figure 22.11 i

51、s a diagram of a typical Malimo stitch-bonded fabric.2021-10-1646Fabrics with a Preconstructed Base Malipol The Malipol construction uses a prefabricated fabric as the base: yarns are fed to this to form a pile surface. Figure 22.14 diagrams the Malipol process. The pile stitched can be short or long, can be made with fine to heavy yarn or thread, and can be left uncut or cut and sheared. Fabrics can be made to resemble terry cloth（毛（毛圈织物）圈织物）, blankets, plush fabrics such as veloures, a