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1、cosmetic formula design chinese cosmetic conference 4introduction123the function of emulsionthe design of emulsion systemnotesoilwateroilwaterstop stirwateroiladd emulsifierstiro/ww/oorw/oo/w o/w emulsion w/o emulsiongood spread qualityfresh and not greasysmooth appearanceefficient washing effectexc
2、ellent lubricationemulsion difficult for intakingeasily evaporatecannot afford enoughwaterwaterinhibit the evaporationoilyimpede the breath of the skinoilselect the materialschoose the type of emulsifieradjustment good surface activity form a stable film remove to the surface quickly determined b y
3、t h e cosmetics the hlb the ph the viscositythe function of thickening systemthe thickening mechanismthe thickening agentskeep heterogeneousin a stableequilibriummore easily to apply theproductthickening system is by one or more thickening agents in cosmetic productsenchance the viscosity and get a
4、rich appearancesimplify the design of suitable packagingnon-associativeassociative(1) non-associative mechanismchain entanglementparticulatesmodifiers(2) associative mechanism networkclassification of thickening agentsthickening agentslipid thickenersnaturally derived thickenersmineral thickenerssyn
5、thetic thickenersionic thickenerswhats the functional system ? purposeendtwo design principlesselect materialsfind solutionsmechanismeffectsafety mechanism of water losswater moleculesskin cellsblocking agent absorbent agentbionic agentsolutionsgrease 油脂water moleculesskin cellsmoisturecream blockin
6、g agent absorbent agentbionic agentsolutionspolyol 多元醇water moleculesskin cellsmoisture cream blocking agent absorbent agentbionic agentsolutionsnatural ingredient 天然物质 water moleculesskin cellsmoisture cream blocking agent absorbent agentbionic agentsolutionseffectsafemoisturizing cosmeticswhitenin
7、g cosmetics anti-aging cosmetics sun-screen cosmetics application of functional application of functional systemsystemmedicinecosmetic famous brands vs ordinary ones tips: materials quality ? guarantee common characteristics ? unsaturated fatty acids peroxides rancidity the main spoilage process oxi
8、dation free radicals mechanism of oxidation common antioxidants (ve) (vc) (sod) prevent oxidation add antioxidants antioxidants aided antioxidants function wellmercaptan (硫醇) sulfide (硫化物)phosphate(磷酸盐)mechanism of anti-oxidationimpact factorstemperaturewateroxygenlightsmetal ironsmicroorganismskey
9、points in the anti-oxidation systemgrease in formula system type of greaseamount of greaseantioxidantsamount of oxidantscomposite of stabilizerdetermination of quantity , optimizationefficient evaluation measure the speed of oxidation determination of peroxide low oxidation value design testsinfrare
10、d absorption spectrumspectrophotometry (ultraviolet spectrum analysis )determination of oxygen consumptiontlc (thin layer chromatography)chemical titration problemspoiledembarrassedoutline chitosan alginate carrageenan we choose three kind of natural additives to check their effects of sterilization
11、, respectively. natural polysaccharide extracted from crab snow crabcarrageenan carrageenan linear polysaccharide extracted from red seaweedalginate alginate natural polysaccharide extracted from brown algaematerials cosmeticspastethree kinds of substancewe mentionedabove cell culturedishsample a ad
12、d chitosan to cosmetics paste; observe the amount of bacterial group after 24h;calculate the ratio of sterilization.cosmeticssample b and c add carrageenan to cosmetics paste; observe the amount of bacterial group after 24h;calculate the ratio of sterilization. add alginate to cosmetics paste; obser
13、ve the amount of bacterial group after 24h;calculate the ratio of sterilization.formulacomparison samplethe ratio of sterilizationa7b70c29conclusion chitosan is the best additive to conserve the cosmetics because of its cation; but it fail to help us clean our pore. carrageenan is usually used in the food additive; no sterilization can be observed in our study. alginate is a natural anionic polysaccharide, it is also not adapted to be a kind of antibacterial; but the structure of its molecule determine that it can be applied to attend to our skin.the design of sensory modification systemendle
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