chinadaily双语版：我们为何痴迷于生鱼片

1、china daily双语版：我们为何痴迷于生鱼片Raw fish is sizzling hot right now.Los Angeles has brand new bars devoted to an Italian style of raw fish, called crudo. President Obama kicked off his visit to Asia last month noshing nigiri at Jiros famous sushi bar. And back in December, The New York Times named Sushi Nak

2、awaza as its top restaurant of the year.But why do so many of us find utter bliss in eating raw sea creatures but arent so inclined to chow down on uncooked birds, cows or pigs?A big part of it is gravity- or the effective lack ofit in the ocean, says biophysicist Ole Mouritsen, author of Sushi: Foo

3、d for the Eye, the Body and the Soul.Fish are so soft. You can stick your finger through their muscles, he says. Try doing that with a chicken or cow. Fish muscle is very different than that in land animals.Why? Because fish can afford to be lazier than terrestrial animals. Fish essentially float al

4、l the time. So their muscles dont work constantly to fight gravity.Fish dont have to support their body weight, Mouritsen says, so their muscle fibers are shorter and less tough than those in land animals. The same goes for the connective tissue holding the muscle fibers togetherIts delicate andweak

5、.The result? Fish has a silky, smooth texture when its raw, and a flaky, light texture when its cooked.By contrast, Land animals - like ourselves - are always working to keep themselves upright and keep their shape, Mouritsen says, so our muscle fibers are thicker, tougher and firmer.The result is a

6、 ropy, chewy and less appetizing texture when the meat is raw. Cooking softens the connective tissue in meat and improves its texture (it also makes it juicy and flavorful).In general, the more a muscle works, the tougher, more iNews,双语新闻,双语,it gets, Mouritsen writes in his book. This idea explains

7、why the belly of the tuna, known as otoro, is exceptionally soft The belly of the fish is the laziest muscle of them all.In contrast, those muscles that are more active in a tuna, say the ones in its fins and tails, are a bit more chewier than other muscles, he says.Under a microscope, fish, chicken

8、 and other meat muscles look similar, with long, parallel fibers, like ropes, stretched out and tied together.But when you zoom in a little closer, the fish muscles look like the Kate Moss of the bunch : Their fibers are slimmer, shorter and more delicate than the others.The muscle properties of fis

9、h also explain the rainbow of colors you see at a sushi bar.Fish that are constantly on the move say, a tuna 一 have muscles that are always working and burning carbohydrates aerobically, Mouritsen says.The muscles need oxygen to make energy. And the molecule that carries oxygen to muscle contains ir

10、on. Guess what color iron is in the fish? Red.In contrast, fish that mostly hang out in one place or on the bottom of the ocean say, for instance, flounder have muscles that dont rely on oxygen to create energy. No oxygen means no iron to carry it, which means the muscles tend to be white. (Of cours

11、e, most fish have a mixture of these two type of muscles and thus can look red, white or pink.)So what about the pinkish-orange color of salmon? Thats a special case, Mouritsen says.The coloring is due to what salmon eatshellfish thatare enriched with a pigment thats related to carotene in carrots,

12、called astaxanthin.This pigment creates the characteristic bluish-gray or green color of raw shrimp and crabs. The molecule turns bright pink or orange when the salmon eats the shellfish or we cook it.查看译文生鱼片现在不过炙手可热.洛杉矶新开了很多餐馆,专卖一种叫做克鲁多(Crudo)的意式生 鱼片.奥巴马总统上个月出访亚洲期间,也抽空去了的数寄屋桥次郎寿司店品尝生鱼片寿司.而在去年十二月,Na

13、kawaza寿司店被?纽约 时报?评为年度餐馆.但为什么我们一方面对生鲜海产品趋之假设鹫,一方面又觉得生禽 肉、生牛肉或生猪肉难以下咽呢？生物物理学家奥利莫里特森(Ole Mouritsen )说,一个很重要 的原因就是重力一一或者说重力在海里的作用微乎其微.他写过一本 书,叫做?寿司：养眼、果腹又提神的食物?.“鱼类相当柔软,你能够用手指直穿它们的肌肉,他说：“你 再拿块鸡肉或者牛肉试试,肯定不行.鱼类的肌肉和陆地动物的肌肉 有很大不同.为什么呢？由于鱼类的生活比陆地动物“更慵懒.鱼类一直都 浮在水中,所以它们的肌肉不用长期对抗重力作用.莫里特森说：“鱼类不用承受自身体重,所以它们的肌肉纤维

14、比 起陆地动物更加纤细,也没那么强健有力.用于连接肌肉的结缔组 织同样柔软无力.这样的特点导致了什么结果？生鱼肉如丝般顺滑,而熟鱼肉轻盈 剔透.莫里特森说,相比之下,“陆地动物一一比方我们人类一一需要 一直保持站立的姿态.所以我们的肌肉纤维更密集、更强健、更结 实.所以,陆地动物的肉在没煮熟的情况下韧性大、难咀嚼一一而且 味道也不好.烹饪能够软化肉中的结缔组织,并且改善肉质(还能够 使肉变得多汁有味).莫里特森在其书中写道,总体来讲,肌肉越用越强健,越用越弯 曲.这就解释了为什么金枪鱼的肚子一一也就是鱼脯一一超乎寻常的 柔软.金枪鱼肚子上的肌肉是全身活动量最少的肌肉.他说：“相比之下,金枪鱼身上更常用的肌肉,比方鱼鳍和鱼尾 上的肌肉,就比其他部位的肌肉更有嚼劲.在显微镜下观察的话,你会发现鱼类、禽类和其他肉类的肌肉看 起来差不多,都有长长的平行纤维,像绳子一样紧紧绕在一起.但如果再放大看的话,鱼类的肌肉看起来就像肌肉界的凯特摩 斯英国超级模特：比其他肌肉更纤细、更短小、更柔弱.鱼类肌肉的这些特性也解释了为何寿司里的鱼肉看起来五颜六色莫里特森说：“一直游动的鱼一一比方说金枪鱼一一它的局部肌 肉一直在活动,通过有氧运动消耗碳水化合物.肌肉需要氧气来制造能量,而负责输送氧气到肌肉里的小分子载 体含有铁元素.猜猜铁元素在鱼肉里呈什么颜色？红色.相对来说,像比目鱼这种不四处游动