制鞋业标准流程之_成型篇(图文并茂)（32页)ppt课件

1、 鞋面與大底成型ASSEMBLE UPPER&O/S 按照鞋子結構的不同, 通常分車中底與結幫兩種成型流程:According to the different shoe construction, there are two kinds of assembly procedure ,strobel & lasting.結幫流程又分為一次流程及兩次流程或多次流程.For the lasting construction, there are 3kinds of procedure ,one time lasting & two times lasting or more than two ti

2、me lasting.這裡僅以一次結幫流程為例,了解成型的過程:Here only show the one time lasting procedure for example to know the assembly procedure:1. 浸 康 特SOAK TR COUNTER1,浸康特時留意康特角不要浸膠。Pay more attention to the bottom of TR counter cant be soaked. 2用鑷子夾住康特放入513藥水中,只需除康特腳外其他部分有碰到膠水,就馬上取出來.浸膠不宜過久過久會使康特軟化。 Clip the counter wit

3、h forceps and then put it into 513 primer . Dont soak counter too long to avoid the counter from soften.3康特浸好后需放在鐵綱滴干。Put the counter on the iron shelf after soaking. 4康特擺放鐵架上涼干時不宜過久,不要超過15分鐘。Make the counter dry not more than 15 minutes.5.操作員應戴上手套及口罩等環保用品.The operator should wear the safe things of

4、 glove & respirator.Applied Tooling:鐵網 Iron meshwork手套Glove鑷子 forceps鐵架Iron shelf1,從裝鞋面的車架上取下鞋面,貼上流水標以便配雙作業,剪斷連線,放鞋面入流水帶上.Take the upper from the shelf and attach pair number sticker, then snip the thread that make one pair of upper together, at last put upper on conveyer belt.2,剪線時不要剪到鞋面.Dont break

5、 the upper when snip thread.3.留意鞋面要配雙.Note: Need make the upper pair.2.准備放鞋面PREPARE UPPERApplied Tooling:剪刀 scissor 1.取一小塊泡棉,對折好再夾在夾子上,刷膠時將泡棉在膠水裡浸一下.Prepare a little piece of foam or cloth and fold then nip it with clamp. Soak a moment before cementing. 2.從裝楦頭的車上取下楦頭,將楦頭底面周圍10MM寬刷白膠Take the last fro

6、m the shelf , then cement around last bottom 10mm width with latex.3,刷膠時左手握楦頭,右手拿夾子.刷膠要均勻到位.During cementing ,the left hand hold the last & the right hand hold clamp. Make sure to cement evenly and completely. 4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品.The operator should wear the safe things of respirators.3.楦頭底刷白膠 CEMENT LA

7、ST BOTTOM WITH LATEXApplied Tooling:夾子Clamp膠壺 Glue pot4.中底正面刷白水膠CEMENT THE INSOLE BOARD1.中底整形,壓力30KG,時間5. Mold the insole board with pressure 30kg & time 5.2,刷膠前將中底板排放整齊,左手壓住中底板,右手拿刷子. Before cementing ,the left hand hold the last & the right hand hold clamp. 3.用刷子沿中底上面周圍15MM寬刷白膠,刷膠要均勻到位. Take the i

8、nsole board from the shelf , then cement around the top of insole board 15mm width with latex. Make sure to cement evenly and completely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品. The operator should wear the safe things of respirators.Applied Tooling:夾子Clamp膠壺 Glue pot5.鞋面後跟刷膠CEMENT HEEL UPPER 1.滾里及鞋面後跟兩邊擦黃膠,膠水要均勻,到位.不可積膠.

9、Cement the both sides of collar lining and heel upper with 766N yellow glue. Make sure to cement evenly & completely but not amass into a pile. 2,刷好膠的鞋面按規定在流水線上排放整齊, 坚持順暢的流程,流進烘箱。Put the upper on the conveyer belt in order to keep the procedure smooth through oven after cement.3.設定烘箱的溫度為70度,時間1分鐘.Ad

10、just the temperature 70 & time 1min . 4.過此烘箱的作用是烘干膠水,軟化鞋面.Let glue dry & soften the upper through the oven.Applied Tooling:刷子Brush膠壺 Glue pot鞋面後跟/滾裡刷膠過烘箱6.貼後跟康特ATTACHE HEEL COUNTER 1.左手拿鞋面右手拉開內里.左手拿鞋面,右手如圖所示拿康特,先使康特腳平齊畫線,對准后跟中心點并貼死,再壓康特的上沿固定.Left hand hold the upper, and the right hand undraw the co

11、llar lining. The left still hand hold the upper, and the right hand hold the counter as shown on the illustration No.2 . At first make the bottom edge of counter align the mark line & center mark, and press the bottom center portion of counter, then press the top center portion of it to fix the cent

12、er position. 3.右手從中心點向兩邊固定康特下沿.Press the counter bottom from the center portion to both sides.4.5,固定康特外腰及內腰.Attach the lateral & medial portion of counter.6.貼滾口內裡並摸平.At last attach the collar lining & make it smooth.4,固定康特外腰3,固定康特下沿5,固定康特內腰2,固定后跟中心點1,后跟滾里與鞋面須拉順6,滾里貼死并摸平7.後跟康特整形MOLD HEEL COUNTER1,裝上正

13、確的定型模.通常熱熔膠港寶用冷定型,康特用熱定型,溫度大約60度,壓力5KG,時間大約8. Set up the correct molding mold. Commonly for hot melt counter use the cool mold, for TR counter use the heat mold with temp 60 & pressure 5kg & time 8 sec. 2.將裝好康特的鞋面,分左右腳放在相應的定型模上.Put the left & right upper with counter on the proper mould specially .3

14、.使鞋面後跟中心對准後定型模的中心,再整型.Need back stitch 3-4 stitches on the start & stop stitching portion.定型機Back molding machine定型模Molding moldApplied Tooling:8.貼中底ATTACH INSOLE1,左手拿楦頭,右手拿中底,將中底中心點對准楦頭中心點,從後跟往前貼. The left hand hold the last to make up the bottom, and the right hand hold the insole to make the cent

15、er match the last, then attach the insole on last from heel to front . 2.確保中底弧度與楦頭弧度相吻合.Make sure the insole fit with last.9.鞋面余皮刷膠CEMENT THE TOE LAST ALLOWANCE1.通常對於一次流程的鞋面,均用白水膠刷鞋面余皮.對於多次流程的鞋面,均用PU膠刷鞋面余皮.Commonly for the shoe that only need be lasted one time, cement the last allowance with latex.

16、 For the shoe that need be lasted more than one, cement the last allowance with PU glue. 2,左手拿鞋面,右手拿刷子.刷鞋面頭莊余皮10mm寬.The left hand hold the upper, and the right hand hold the brush ,cement the toe last allowance with width 10mm.3,刷膠要到位,均勻,但不能刷太高也不能溢膠.刷膠後放入流水線,送進烘箱.Cementing should be complete & even

17、but not too high or come out. Put it on the conveyer belt through the oven after cementing. 4,烘箱溫度設為80度,時間2分鐘.Adjust the temperature 80 & time 2 min of oven . 5,過此烘箱的目的,使鞋面余皮的膠水干一些. Make the glue for the lasting allowance dry through the ovenApplied Tooling:刷子Brush 膠壺Glue pot鞋面結幫余皮刷膠 過烘箱10.鞋頭軟化SOFTE

18、N TOP PORTION1.調整鞋頭軟化模的溫度150-200度,時間8-10.Adjust the temperature to150-200 and time 8-10 of mold for softening the upper . 2.普通足球鞋或鞋面皮料較硬的鞋面需經過此流程軟化,以免結幫後鞋面花角.Commonly for the football shoe or the shoe that upper leather is too soft, both need through this procedure to avoid wrinkle after last.Applie

19、d Tooling:軟化機 Soften machine11.前接幫TOE LASTINGApplied Tooling:1.設定正確的前幫機运用參數,壓頭壓力:35kg.壓著時間:5秒,掃刀溫度:室內自然溫度.Set correct parameter for the toe lasting machine: Pressure: 35kg,time : 5 sec ,temperature of wiper as the indoors . 2.前抓的排放要與楦頭弧度相吻合.The shape of claw should fit the last.3.前幫時,中心點要對正,前爪要抓齊印刷線

20、(點),余皮按印刷線作業.During toe lasting, make sure the center match the last & the claw of machine align the marking for lasting. Make sure the allowance follow the printing line.4.結幫後,頭莊高度要一致.Make sure the toe height consistent.前幫機Toe lasting machine12.插鞋叉,緊鞋帶INSERT SPACER & TIGHT SHOE LACE1.插鞋叉,平齊鞋舌上沿.再緊鞋

21、帶. Insert the spacer between the tongue & lace and make the top edge align the tongues . Then tighten the shoe lace. 2.緊鞋帶後,用量版比對助帶口寬度能否正確.Check if the width of eyelet stay is correct with gauge board.13.拉腰幫SIDE LASTINGApplied Tooling:1.拉腰邦余皮需平齊中底印刷線.Side lasting must follow the printing line on the

22、 insole .2.結幫后內內外腰須緊貼楦頭余皮平順且均勻。After the allowance must be smooth & upper must fit the last on the medial & lateral portion .鳥嘴鉗 Pincer腰幫機 Side lasting machine1,設定后幫機器正確參數,壓力35公斤,時間:5秒,掃刀溫度:室內自然溫度. Set the proper parameter of heel lasting machine with pressure 35 kilo, time 5 sec and temperature as

23、the indoors. 2. 依訂單楦頭及後跟定型模更換掃刀(圓角楦頭用圓掃刀).Change to the proper wiper of heel lasting machine as per the correct last & heel molding mold. (For round angle last, use the round shape wiper. 3.壓完后幫后須對比后跟高度:一样號碼之后跟高度要一致.Need check the heel height to make sure its consistence for one pair after pressing

24、.4.配雙放入流水帶,進入下一流程.Pair and put it on the conveyer belt to process the next procedure.Applied Tooling:後幫機 Heel lasting machine14.壓後幫PRESS HEEL LASTING鳥嘴鉗Pincers壓後幫對比後跟高度15.磨景ROUGHING1,在磨景機上裝上正確的砂帶普通用40#-60#的,將余皮折縐磨平。 Set the proper emery tape on the grinding machine, commonly 40#-60#. Rough the toe l

25、asting allowance flat on the wrinkle portion. 2,磨平后余留的粉屑須運用吹風槍吹干淨.Blow the chipping clean with blower after roughing.3.磨景不可磨破鞋面不可有燒焦的現象砂帶須定時更換.Dont break the upper & burnt the upper during roughing. The emery tape need be changed on time. Applied Tooling:磨景機 Grinding machine砂輪石 Emery wheel stone16.余

26、皮壓平PRESS THE LASTING ALLOWANCE FLAT1,選擇正確的鐵板燒.Choose the proper iron plate as the last construction.2,設定機器參數,對反毛皮版鞋面,鐵板燒溫度用室內溫度,皮料版溫度80度;壓力均為35公斤,時間10秒.Set the proper parameter of machine. For the suede version, the temperature of the iron plate is indoor; For the leather version, it need 80.For the

27、 both version, set the pressure 35 kilo, time 10sec.3,操作時將套楦鞋面放正放穩,不可歪斜搖晃. 壓平後放入流水線,送進烘箱.Make the lasted upper match the center line & stay stably ,not allow to twist& roll. Put it on the conveyer belt through oven.4,烘箱溫度設為100度,時間4分鐘.Set the oven temperature 100 & time 4 minutes . 5,過此烘箱的目的,使鞋面定型. K

28、eep the upper shape fit the last through the oven.Applied Tooling:壓平機Pressing machine鐵板燒Iron plate17.CHECK前後高度,大底配雙CHECK TOE & HEEL HEIGHT THEN PAIR 1,經過加硫之套楦鞋面,放於平台上,CHECK其高度能否正確,並放入下一流程.Check the height of lasted upper and pair then put it to the next procedure.2.套楦鞋面及大底配雙標上流水號,放入流水線上.The lasted u

29、pper & unit sole pair and write down the pair number then put to conveyer belt.查高度能否正確:水解筆hydrolyze penApplied Tooling:標流水號18.畫線GUIDE MARKApplied Tooling:1.設定壓力為4KG,調整放畫線模的程度度. Set the pressure to 4KG& adjust the guide marking level.2.畫線時先須標出鞋頭和后跟中心點以利于大底鞋面貼合時對正.At first make the toe & heel center o

30、n the upper to avoid the center comes off last.3. 確保畫線要一致.Make sure the marking consistent.水解筆hydrolyze pen畫線模Guiding marking mold畫線機Guiding marking machine19.刻磨,吹灰BUFF & BLOW Applied Tooling:刻磨機 Buff machine砂輪Emery wheel吸塵機Dust collector耳塞Earplug1,選用正確的砂輪,進行刻磨,不能磨破皮料,不可燒焦. Use correct emery wheel t

31、o buff , and dont break the leather or burnt. 2.將磨好的套楦鞋面,放入吸塵箱中進行吹灰. Put the lasted upper in dust collector to remove the flour.20.大底/鞋面洗藥水O/S primer1,大底藥水處理:PrimerO/S橡膠用白色1016A+1%B粉;雜色用1016A+2-3%B粉;White rubber O/S primer with 1016A+1%B;varied color rubber do with 1016A+2-3%; EVA需照光處理,白色用UV-11N 能量0

32、.52 J/CM2,黑色用UV-8N處理,能量0.47J/CM2.時間均為10-12秒. EVA need treat with light, for white EVA light with UV-11N energy 0.52 J/CM2 ,for black EVA do with UV-8N energy 0.47J/CM2; light time 10-12sec for both color.Shank用111YCN+2%RFE藥水處理Primer O/S: White rubber with 1016A+1%B;varied color rubber with 1016A+2-3

33、%B;EVA with UV light. Primer Shanks with 111YCN+2%RFE.2.反毛皮,面皮用UE-9SF+5-7%CL-12處理,人造皮用111YCN+2%E-1000,網布不需藥水處理. Primer the suede and leather with UE-9SF+5-7%CL-12, for synthetic use 111YCN+2%E-1000 ,for mesh no need primer.3.在處理藥水過程中藥水不可太少或過量不可有外溢現象。處理後During primer, dont apply the primer too much o

34、r too little or come out .4. 粘藥水的絲瓜布要經常更換.The towel gourd cloth soaked primer need be changed often. 21.過烘箱THROUGH OVEN1,鞋面在烘箱下層,烘箱溫度70-80度;底部配件在烘箱上層,烘箱溫度50-55度,時間均為2分鐘.Put the lasted upper on top layer of oven and set the temperature 70-80; Put the bottom on bottom layer of oven and set temperature

35、 50-55. Heat time 2 minutes for both . 2.過此烘箱的目的,烘干藥水. The purpose is to dry after primer.22.第一次上大底膠O/S FIRST CEMENT1.鞋面是真皮(含反毛皮),不需刷一次膠;如鞋面是網布或人造皮,需刷一次膠用116NN+3-5E%-1000.For the leather upper including suede, no need first cement; For the mesh & synthetic upper ,need first cement with 116NN +3-5E%-

36、1000 glue.2,准備好刷子和膠水,膠水要在規定的時間內用完,刷子每半小時更換一次,以免積膠.Prepare the brush & glue. And the glue must be used up in requested time & change the brush every half hour to prevent glue from amassing. 3.用116NN+3-5E%-1000)刷大底一次膠,刷膠要均勻,到位,不可溢膠.First cement O/S with 116NN+3-5E%-1000 glue. Cementing should be even

37、& complete and not come out. 4.將大底整齊地排放在輸送帶上送入烘箱.Put the O/S on the conveyer belt in order and into oven.5.鞋面烘箱溫度70-80度,底部烘箱溫度50-55度,時間4分.Set oven temp 70-80 for upper & 50-55 for bottom, heat time 4 minutes. 23.大底刷二次膠SEC CEMENT O/S1,准備好刷子和膠水,膠水要在規定的時間內用完,刷子每半小時更換一次,以免積膠.Prepare the brush & glue. An

38、d the glue must be used up in requested time & change the brush every half hour to prevent glue from amassing. 2.用NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6刷大底二次膠,刷膠要均勻,到位,不可溢膠.Sec cement O/S with NP 580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6. Cementing should be even & complete and not come out. 3.鞋面結幫余皮刷NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6膠後,再貼上前掌填腹,

39、最後在前掌填腹上刷膠.Cement the lasting allowance with NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6,then attach the filler on the forefoot ,at last cement the filler.4.將大底及刷膠後鞋面整齊地排放在輸送帶上送入烘箱.Put the O/S & lasted upper on the conveyer belt in order and into oven.5.鞋面烘箱溫度70-80度,底部烘箱溫度50-55度,時間5分.Set oven temp 70-80 for upper & 50-

40、55 for bottom, heat time 5 minutes. 大底二次刷膠鞋面結幫余皮刷膠貼填腹填腹刷膠24.貼大底ASSEMBLY O/S &UPPER1,鞋面與大底從烘箱出來必須在30-35秒之內完成貼合動作.Take out the upper & O/S from oven, and need finish assembly in 30-35 seconds.2.鞋面與大底貼合前，先檢視鞋面與大底能否同一個號碼Need check if the size of upper & O/S consistent.3.貼合時先貼合鞋頭中心位置再貼外內腰部位及后跟.按照確認鞋的相對位置

41、進行操作.First attach the toe center portion then lateral & medial portion ,at last attach heel portion following the confirmation sample.5.不可貼高膠線或外露膠線。.The marking for cement should not be exposed & not be over . 6.貼合動作完成后放在鋼板上檢查大底能否平穩。Need check if the finished shoe is smooth and flat.1固定鞋頭2固定鞋外腰3固定鞋內

42、腰4,固定鞋后跟5,用撬刀使大底鞋后跟弧度圓順6,檢驗大底平穩度25.用三合一壓機及上下壓機壓PRESS WITH UNIVERSAL&VERTICAL MACHING1,在三合一壓機上,裝上相應的壓底模.Set up the correct pressing mould on the universal pressing machine.2,設定適當的壓力及壓機時間,通常三合一壓機壓力40KG/CM2,時間15秒;上下壓機壓力35KG/CM2 ,時間8-10秒. Adjust the proper pressure & time. Common for universal pressing

43、machine pressure :40KG/CM2 ,time : 15 seconds; for vertical pressing machine ,pressure :35KG/CM2,time : 8-10 seconds.3.先用三合一壓機壓,再用上下壓機壓.First press with universal pressing machine, then do with vertical pressing machine. Applied Tooling:三合一壓機Universal pressing machine三合一壓模Universal mould26.除膠&補膠及畫線C

44、LEAN GLUE & MARK LINE1,壓機後檢查大底邊牆與鞋面能否有膠縫,如有,補膠後用工具將其壓貼结实.Check if any gap between upper & O/S side wall. If there is, repair a little cement with injector, and press here to make sure there is no any gap between upper & O/S side wall .2,用生膠片將外溢到鞋面上的膠水擦干淨,並用毛刷粘上清水清洗外露的畫線.Wipe the glue came over to up

45、per clean with crepe rubber, and wash out the mark line with brush & water .3.將鞋子放入輸送帶上送入冷凍箱定型.冷凍箱溫度:0-5度;時間:8分鐘.Put the finished shoe on the conveyer belt through the cool trunk to keep the shape of shoe. Set the cool trunk with the temperature 0-5 。C ,cooling time : 8 minutesApplied Tooling: 注射器In

46、jector毛刷 Brush 清液Cleanser27.解松鞋帶/拔楦LOOSEN LACE / DE-LAST1,冷凍定型後,用鐵勾勾松鞋帶.留意不要勾壞鞋面及鞋帶.After cooling, make the lace loose with iron hook. Note: dont break the upper and shoe lace during loosening the lace. 2.按照鞋子的形狀調整機器.Adjust the machine according to the shape of shoe.3.拔楦後,大底不能扭曲變形,及不平穩.需用手輕攝一下後跟使其坚持

47、後跟的型狀.Make sure the O/S not twist and not roll after de-last. In order to keep the heel shape , need press lightly the heel portion .Applied Tooling: 拔楦機 De-last machine解松鞋帶:拔楦:28.清潔鞋面及塞鞋墊PUNCH THE EYELET HOLE1,清潔時,要依鞋面的材質選擇清洗潔.除去鞋面及底部的膠水用生膠片.Chose the proper liquid for cleaning according to material of upper. Wipe out gl