内容说明讲稿japan-10around tokyo

AROUNDSometimesyouneedabreakfromtheworld’slargestcity,andoncleardaysMtFujibeckonsyoufromthewest.Insummer,youcanclimbthrough stowardsthejaggedsummitofJapan’snationalsymbol,aspilgrimshavedoneforcenturies,orthetownsofHakoneortheFujiFiveLakesmakeforidealhikingandsoakinganytimeofAROUNDNorthofthecapital,Nikkōloomsequallylargeintheculturallandscape;itsgildedshrinesandexquisiycraftedtemplesarespectacularlysetamidverdantwoodlands.Furthernorth,Gunma-kenisthenation’shot-springcapital,withriverbankonsen,mountainonsen,evenonsentownswherewalkingthestreetsinyouryukata(cottonbathrobe)andclip-clopgetasandalsisderigueur.Southofthecapital,KamakurawasJapan’scapitalfromAD1194–1333,boastingatreasuryoftemplesandsylvanhikingtrails.NearbyYokohamahasgrownfromablip150yearsagotoJapan’ssecond-largestcity,withcracklingentertainmentdistricts,shopgaloreandlongstandingforeigninfluence.Continuingsouth,thepeninsulaIzu-hantōoffersquitedifferenttemptations:charmingseasidetowns,lovelywindsweptbeachesandcliff-toponsenoverlookingthePacific.Andyouneedn’tleaveTokyoPrefectureforanislandgetaway;Izu-shotōisachainofvolcanicislandswithwhite-sandbeachesandalushsubtropicallandscapeforhiking,surfingandbing;somewouldswearthattheimmaculayfreshsashimialoneisworththeWatchthesunrisefromthemajesticofMtFuji(p198),Japan’shighestmountainand

Thebig-ticketitemoftravelnorthofTokyoisNikkōwithitsamazingshrines.FurthernorthisGunma-ken,hometonumeroushot-springresorts.%0288/popThepathfromTōshōgutoFutarasan-JinjamayverywellbetheJapanyou’vedreamtof.Onyourleft,years(decades?centuries?)ofmossclingtoastonewall,whiletotherightaredozensofstonelanternsinprecisealignment,framedwithachingperfectionbyavermillionwallandtoweringcedars.Scatteredamonghillywoodlands,Nikkōisdiscoveredittoo,andatpeakseasonandonweekendsanytimeofyearitcanbeextremelycrowded.AlthoughNikkōiscertainlypos-sibleasadaytripfromTokyo,trytospendthepreviousnightheresoyouarriveatitsWorldHeritageshrinesandtemplesbeforethecrowdsdo.Gorgeousnaturalscenerywestofthecitymeritsanothernight.tothemiddleofthe8thcentury,whenthetablishedahermitagehere.ItwasatrainingcentreforBuddhistmonks,beforedecliningintoobscurity.Thatis,untilitwaschosenasthesiteforthemausoleumofTokugawaIeyasu,thewarlordwhotookcontrolof

NORTHOFTOKYO••NikkōAROUNDBothJRNikkōstationandthenearbyTōbuNikkōstationliewithinablockofNikkō’smainroad(Rte119,theoldNikkōkaidō),southeastofthetowncentre.Fromhere,it’sa30-minutewalkuphilltotheshrinearea,pastrestaurants,hosandthemaintouristinformationcentre.Fromthestationstotheshrines,youcantakebusestotheShin-kyōbusstopfor¥190.TheareanorthoftheAROUNDINTERNETINTERNET MEDICALtionoffice.TOURISTTheTouristGuideofNikkōhasaboutevery-thingyouneed,andthebilingualCentralNikkoshowsthesmallstreets.HikersnationalFindyourspiritualcentrewhileexploringthedazzlingtemplesofNikkō(opposite)RecoverfromthemadnessoftheatidylliconsenonIzu-hantō(p217)orGunma-ken trailsinsearchofhidden

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formorethan250years,untiltheMeijiRes-torationendedthefeudalera.eringcedarsin1617,andin1634hisgrand-son,TokugawaIemitsu,commencedworkontheshrinethatcanbeseentoday.Theorigi-

ingGuide(¥150)withmapsandinformationonlocalfloraandfauna.ThesmallGuidebookforWalkingTrails(¥150)isusefulforshortaroundKamakuraRelaxinanaturalseasideonsenwhilegazingoverthePacificononeoftheeasilyacces-sibleIzu-shotōIslands(p231)SpendadayoutinYokohama(p218),andthesunsetoveritsharbourmaymakeyouwanttospendthenight

usinganarmyofsome15,000artisansfromacrossJapan,takingtwoyearstocompletetheshrineandmausoleum.Whateverone’sopinionofIeyasu(heissaidtohavehadhiswifeandeldestsonexecutedbecauseitwaspoliticallyexpedient),thegrandeurofNikkōisintendedtoawe,adisyofwealthandpowerbyafamilythatfor2½centurieswasJapan’ssupremearbiterofpower.

soarrangefor 188NORTHOFTOKYO••Around NORTHOFTOKYO••NikkōAkagi- GUNMA-MinakamiAkagi- GUNMA-MinakamiNantai-OzeShirane-san6National4FUKUSHIMA- NIIGATA-KEN

ROAD-TRIP,EDO-YouknowthatoldchestnutaboutallroadsleadingtoRome?Well,inEdo-eraJapanallofimportantroadslillyledtotheshogun’sUnderasystemcalledsankin-kotai,daimyō(feudallords)wererequiredtomaintainresidencesinEdoaswellasintheirhomeprovincesandgobackandforthtoattendtoaffairsinbothces.Theirfamilies,meanwhile,remainedinEdoinordertosuppresstemptationtowardsinsurrection.Traveltotheprovinceswasviamain‘trunk’roads,includingtheTōkaidō(‘EasternSearoad’,con-nectingEdotoHeian-kyō,nowKyoto),theNikkōKaidō(Nikkōroad)andtheNakasendō(‘CentralMountainroad’mostnotablythroughNagano-ken).Theseroadsbecamecelebrated,notablythroughHiroshige’sseriesofukiyo-e(woodblockprints),53StationsoftheTōkaidō.Atthe‘stations’,innsthrivedandnoblesandtheirretainerscouldunwindafterlongdays.Strategicallylocatedstationshousedcheckpoints,50inall,calledsekisho.Travellingcommonershadtopresentategata(awoodenquethatservedasapass-port)andsubjectthemselvestoinspectionforcontraband,suchasweaponry.Violationoftheserules–includingtryingtocircumnavigatethesekisho–couldbringseverepenaltiesincludingaparticularlyghastlyformofcrucifixion.ThesekishoatHakoneandKiso-Fukushimawereamongthemostimportantandremainthebestp .OtheratmosphericstationtownsareArimatsu(p248)ontheTōkaidōandTsumago(p288)ontheNakasendō. NationalNationalParkPKENMt TokyoFujiGo- Tanzawa-san(599m)TOKYO-TachikawaTakao- Chichibu-TamaOku-Mitake- CHIBANational±take-EnzanPKENMt TokyoFujiGo- Tanzawa-san(599m)TOKYO-TachikawaTakao- Chichibu-TamaOku-Mitake- CHIBANational±take-EnzanNirasaki6Kasumigaura-AROUND1 1 National Miura-hantŸNationalParkNationalParkThelovelyredsacredbridge(%54-0535;NationalTo-Nesugata-Suruga-PACIFICOCEAShikine-jimaJinataFuji-Hakone-IzuMiyake-jimaNationalNationalTo-Nesugata-Suruga-PACIFICOCEAShikine-jimaJinataFuji-Hakone-IzuMiyake-jimaNationalParkShimoda-Sagami-RINNŌ-JI輪王Fuji-Hakone-IzuHachijŸ-NationalPACIFICOCEAThisTendai-secttemplewasfounded1200Fuji-Hakone-IzuHachijŸ-NationalPACIFICOCEA

istheanimalkingdom.AroomtothesidecontainsahealingBuddha,holdinghisringfingeroveramedicinebowl,saidtobetheoriginoftheJapanesenameforthisfinger(kusuri-yubi,medicinefinger).¥300)housessome6000treasuresassociatedwiththetemple;admissionisnotincludedinthecombinationticket(p187).NexttoRinnō-jiisthe15m-high,3mcir-cumferencepillarSōrintō(1643),builtbyIemitsuin1643.Insideare1000volumesofTŌSHŌ-GŪ東照AhugestonetoriiisafittinglygrandentrancetothisstoriedShintōshrine.Totheleftisafive-storeypagoda(34.3m)datingfrom1650andreconstructedin1818.Thepagodahasnofoundationsbutcontainsalongsuspendedpolethatswingslikeapendulum,maintainingequilibriumintheeventofanearthquake.Theentrancetothemainshrineisthroughthetoriiatthegate,Omote-mon,protectedoneithersidebyDevakings.JustinsidearetheSanjinko(ThreeSacredStorehouses).Ontheupperstoreyofthelaststorehouseareim-aginativereliefcarvingsofelephantsbyanwhofamouslyhadneverseentherealthing.TotheleftoftheentranceisShinyōsha(SacredStable),a inbuildinghousingacarvedwhitehorse.Thestableisadornedwithallegoricalreliefcarvingsofmonkeys,190NORTHOFTOKYO•• lonelynet

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2A-2D)᧲ᱞᣣశ㚞೨ࠅࠅ )4)4DprinciplesofTendaiDJustbeyondthestableisagranitefontatwhich,inaccordancewithShintōpractice,worshipperscleansethemselvesbywashingtheirhandsandrinsingtheirmouths.Nexttothegateisasacredlibrarycontaining7000Buddhistscrollsandbooks;it’sclosedtotheBC30Passthroughanothertorii,climbanotherflightofstairs,andontheleftandrightareadrumtowerandabelfry.TotheleftofthedrumtowerisHonji-dō(Yakushido).ThishallisbestknownforthepaintingonitsceilingoftheNakiryū(cryingdragon).Monksdem-onstratetheacousticalpropertiesofthishallbyclaptwostickstogether.Thedragonroars’(abitofastretch)whenthesticksareclappedbeneaththedragon’smouth,butBC3044750zlinglydecoratedwithglimmeringgoldleafandintricate,colouredcarvingsandpaintingsofflowers,dancinggirls,mythicalbeastsandsages.Worrying750±A96ToNikkŸTamozawa±A96ToNikkŸTamozawa2e1storageforthemikoshi(portableshrines),usedduringfestivals.1

(HallofWorship)areacrosstheenclosure.Inside(openonlytodaimyōduringtheEdoPeriod)arepaintingsofthe36immortalpoetsofKyoto,andaceilingpaintingpatternfromtheMomoyamaperiod;notethe100dragons,eachdifferent.Fusuma(slidingdoor)paint-giraffeandpartdragon.It’ssaidthatitwillappearonlywhentheworldisatpeace.ThroughYōmei-monandtotherightisNemuri-Neko,asmallwoodensculptureofasleecatfamousthroughoutJapanforitslifelikeappearance(thoughadmittedlytheattractionislostonsomevisitors).Fromhere,Sakashita-monopensontoanuphillpathpropriaysolemn.There’saseparateentryfee(¥520)toseethecatandthetomb.FUTARASAN-JINJA二荒dedicatedtothenearbymountain,Nantai-sanandtheirmountainousprogeny,Tarō.Ifyouarecharmedbythisshrine,youcanvisittheothertwoportionsofit,onNantai-sanandbyChūzenji-ko(p194).TAIYŪIN-BYŌ大猷院192NORTHOFTOKYO•• NORTHOFTOKYO••NikkōthesameelementsasTōshōgu(storehouses,drumtower, -stylegatesetc),itssmaller,moreintimatescaleandsettinginacryptomeria makeitveryappealing.andamausoleum.AROUNDfordozensoflanternsdonatedbydaimyō,andthegateNiō-mon,whoseguardiandeitieshaveahandup(to ethosewithpurehearts)andahanddown(tosuppressimpurehearts).Insidethemainhall,140dragonspaintedontheceilingaresaidtocarryAROUND N-GA-FUCHIABYSS含満IfthecrowdsofNikkōleaveyouyearningforalittlequiet,takethe20-minutewalktoGn-Ga-FuchiAbyss,acollectionofjizōstatues(thesmallstonestatuesoftheBuddhistprotectoroftravellersandchildren)setalongawoodedpath.OneofthestatuesmidwayalongisknownastheBake-jizō,whomockstravellersfoolishenoughtotrytocountallthejizō(they’resaidtobeuncountable).TakealeftaftercrossingtheShin-kyōbridgeandfol-lowtheriverforabout800m,crossinganotherbridgeenroute.NIKKŌTAMOZAWA日光田母沢御用largestwoodenimperialvilla(106rooms)intwogenerationsofEmperors,anditwaswheretheEmperorShōwa(akaHirohito)spentWWII.Ithasbeenpainstakinglyrestoredtoitsformergloryandiswellworthavisit.It’sabout1kmwestoftheShin-kyōbridge.NIKKŌWOODCARVING日光木彫りのAftermarvellingoverthecraftsmanshipofh9am-5pmFri-Wed)hasmorecontemporary(andutilitarian)piecesinthetradition.Ex-hibitsonthe2ndfloorincludeyatai(festivalfloats),tansu(woodenchests),andwood-workingdemonstrationsofkitchenandotheraccessories.Youcantryyourownhandwithayouwantto

Festivals& cesinNikkōareusedton)Thissix-room,24-bedhosearnscom-mendationsforitshospitablehostess.It’safour-minutewalkfromtheShiyakusho-mae(CityHall)busstop,behindthepostofficeandneartheriver.Reservemealsinadvance;breakfast/dinneris¥420/840. kept,onthegreensideoftown(pick-upavail-ableonrequest).It’smostlytwinanddoublerooms,plusacoupleofdorms,runbyEnglish-speakingZenBuddhistmonks;lookforyogaclasses.Breakfast/dinnercosts¥395/1500.100-plus-year-oldinn,onthemainroadbe-sidethepostoffice,isnothingfancybutgoodhonestvalue.NoprivatefacilitiesorEnglishspoken,butroomshavephoneandTV,andthere’sahot-springbathandwoodworkonfast/dinnercosts¥1000/2000.TurtleInnNikkō(%53-3168; popularpensions,withlargeJapaneseandWestern-stylerooms,someEnglish-speak-ingstaffandheartymeals(breakfast/dinner¥1050/2100).Downsides:ratherinstitutionaltrackabout50m,turnrightalongtheriverturtlesignontheleft.Ratesvaryseasonally.

i)Foralittlemoremoneyandafewmoreisamoremodern,pleasantoption.Ithasawindoweddiningroom(breakfast/dinner¥1050/2100),well-tendedtatamiandWest-ern-stylerooms,andgreenerysurroundingtheonsen(plusin-roombaths).Internetac-cessisatTurtleInn,andyourdinnermaybe,too.FromTurtleInn,bearleftandcrosstheriver;theannexisabout100maheadontheright. ¥8400-14,000,min2people)Cleanandspacious,Tōkansōprovidesa ing(ifnotluxu-rious)ryokanexperience.FromtheShinkyōbusstop,continueuphill,crossthestreet,turnrightandbearleftagainuphill.TOPfrom¥9240/11,500;ai)Nikkō’soldestWest-ernstyleho(1893)wearsitshistorylikefinesuit.UphillfromRte119andwithviewsfineviews,spaciousquartersandprivatebath-rooms.Ratesdonotincludemealsandrisesteeplyinpeakseasons. Tōshōgu,this24-roomhowasbuiltinthetenintheneatrooms(mostlyJapanese)andonsen,includingindoorandoutdoorbaths(thelatterofcypress)andsauna,andmealsRyokan,about100montheleft-handside.Eating&Nikkō’sovernightvisitorsofteneatwherethey’restaying,butthereareanumberofcesonthemainroadbetweenthestationsandtheshrinearea;mostcloseby8pmor9pm.Alocalspecialityisyuba–theskinthatformswhenmakingtofu–cutintostrips;bet-terthanitsounds,it’sastapleofshōjin-(Buddhistvegetarianmeals¥500-850;h11am-8pm;E)Thisthree-tableshopisaninstitutionamongforeigntravel-lers,asyearsofbusinesscardstackedtothe

wallstestify.Itservesfillingsets,includingyakitori(chickenonskewers)andyaki-udonabout100mbeforetheShin-kyōbridge.¥500-1000;h10am-2amMon-Fri,7am-2amSat;E)rants’.Itmakesupinvalueandvarietywhatitlacksinindividuality.Offeringsincludepiz-zas,pastaandtonkatsu(porkcutlet).AROUNDwhichyoucookbyyourselfonateppan(hot-steeltable).Mostchoicesareunder¥1000,AROUND¥700-1300;hlunch&dinner;E) ing,home-stylespotforKoreandishes,likeishiyakibibimpa(ricewithbeefandvegetablesinahotstonebowl),chapchae(friedclearnoodleswithvegetables)andkimchirāmen(noodleswithspicyKoreanpickles).Yakiniku(grilledmeats)iscookedinthekitchen(othercesmakeyoucookityourselfatthetable),andlargedisheslikesamgyetang(stewedginsengchicken)areenoughfortwo.It’safewdoorsdownhillfromHippariDako,withascrollingelectronicsign.¥2625-3150;hlunch)Thisyubaspecialityhouseservesitsashimi-style,withtofuandsoymilk,andwithavarietyofseasonalsidedishes.There’snoEnglish,butthereareonlytwochoicesforsets:¥2625ifyou’rehungryand¥3150ifyou’rereallyhungry.Lookforthetwo-storeytanbuildingacrossfromthefirstleftturnafterShinkyō.tingtodiefor,Gyoshinteiisworththesplurge.Itoverlooksanelegantgarden,about250mnorthoftheShin-kyōbridge.thehillsabovetown,alightlager-stylePilsnerthat’swonbeercompetitionsbothinterna-tionally(in2004)andinJapan(2006).Snacksincludesausagesandicecream.Stallsaroundtheshrineprecinctssellsnacksgrilledonastick,includingyakitori,194NORTHOFTOKYO••Around NORTHOFTOKYO••Gunma-kenGettingThere&NikkōisbestreachedfromTokyoviatheTōbu-NikkōlinefromAsakusastation.Youcanusuallygetlast-minuteseatsonAROUNDtokkyū(limitedexpress)trains(¥2740,onehour50minutes)aboutevery30minutesfrom7.30amto10am,hourlythereafter.Kai-soku(rapid)trains(¥1320,2½hours,hourlyfrom6.20amto4.30pm)requirenoreserva-tion.Foreithertrain,youmayhavetochangeatShimo-imaichi.BesuretorideinthefirsttwocarstoreachNikkō(somecarsmayAROUNDJRmakesfourdailyrunsbetweenNikko(¥3770)stations,inabouttwohours.Other-wise,travellingbyJRistime-consumingandcostlywithoutaJRPass.Taketheshinkansen(bullettrain)fromTokyotoUtsunomiya(¥4800,50minutes)andchangethereforanordinarytraintoNikkō(¥740,45minutes).TRAIN/BUSTōbuRailwayofferstwopassescoveringrailtransportfromAsakusatoNikkō(thoughnotthetokkyūsurcharge,from¥1040)andun-limitedhop-on-hop-offbusservicesaroundNikko.TheAllNikkoPass(adult/child¥4400/2210,)isvalidforfourdaysandin-cludesbusestoChūzenji-ko(right),Yumoto-Onsen(p195)andotherregionaldestinations.TheWorldHeritagePass(Sekai-isanMeguriPass;adult/seniorhigh/juniorhigh/child¥3600/3200/3000/1700,twodays)includesbusestotheWorldHeritagesights,plusad-station.BusstopsareannouncedinEnglish.TŌBUNIKKŌ bus-onlypassesallowunlimitedridesbe-tweenNikkōandYumotoOnsen(¥3000)orNikkōandChuzenjiOnsen(¥2000),includ-ingtheWorldHeritagesites.Alternatively,theSekai-isan-meguri(WorldHeritageBusPass;¥500)coverstheareabetweenthesta-tionsandshrineprecincts.BuytheseatTōbuNikkōstation.sqkmsprawlingoverFukushima,Tochigi,

GunmaandNiigataprefectures.Thismoun-tainousregionfeaturesextinctvolcanoes,lakes,waterfallsandmarshlands.Therearegoodhikingopportunitiesandsomeremotehot-springresorts.A5kmbusridefromcentralNikkō,thismod-goodcetorelaxafteradayofexploringshrinesandtemples.Ithasseveraldifferentbaths,includingarotemburo(outdoorbath).TakeaChūzenji-boundbusfromeithertrainstationinNikkōandgetoffattheKiyotakiItchōmestop.Theonsenisacrosstheriverfromthebusstop;walkbacktowardsNikkō,undertheRte120bypassandacrosstheThisarea10kmwestofNikkōis(relatively)naturalandoffersabitofseclusion,evenifthenamesakelakehastheusualtouristfa-cilities.Thebig-ticketattractionisthehum-,theelevatordowntoatformtoobservethefulloftheplungingwater.Futarasan-jinja(二荒山%55-0017h8am-5pmApr-Oct,9am-4pmNov-Mar)complementstheshrinesatTōshō-gūandonthemountainNantai-san(2484mTheshrineisabout1kmwestofthefalls,alongthelake’snorthshore.ForgoodviewsofthelakeandKegon-(thestopbeforeChūzenjiOnsenandtaketheuptoaviewingtform.Fromhere,it’sapleas-ant1.5kmwalkacrosstheChanoki-dairatoavantagepointwithgreatviewsoverthelake,thefallsandNantai-san.FromhereyoucanwalkdowntothelakeandChūzenjiOnsen.Chūzenji-kohastheusualflotillaofsight-seeingboatsatthedock(pricesvary).Thelake(161mdeep)isafabulousshadeofdeepblueingoodweather,withamountainous &

fromthelake’seasternshorehasninemostlyWestern-styleroomsthatfeelabitlikegrand-ma’shouse.Allhaveprivatefacilities,andthere’;d ¥23,000)Aycaramba!Thecommonbathsherearebiggerthanentireinnselsewhere,therestofthebuildingisfittedwithcontemporaryartandhallwaysarelinedwithcarpetsyoumaywanttodiveinto.All28palatiallypropor-tionedJapanese-styleroomshaveviewsofthelakeandMtNantai.It’sabout150mbeyondChūzenjiPension.FeudeBois(フゥドボヮ%55-1223bread&pas-try¥100-500h8am-6pmwhileslastAblockoffthemainstreetbythebusChūzenjibusstopisthisdarlingboulangeriesellingwalnutbread,Danishwithapricotorchoco-banana,croissantsandmore.StockupbeforethatGETTINGTHERE&BusesrunfromtheNikkōstationareaFromChūzenji-ko,youmightcontinueontothequieterhot-springsresortofYumotoOnsenbybus(¥840,30minutes)orreachitbyarewardingthree-hourhikeontheinNatureTrail;戦場ヶ原自然研究路).FromChūzenjiOnsen,takeaYumoto-boundbusandgetoffatRyūzu-no-taki(竜頭ノ滝;¥410,20minutes),thestartofthehike.ThehikefollowstheYu-gawaacrossthepicturesquemarshlandofSenjōgahara(partiallyonwoodennkpaths),alongsidethe75m-highfallsYu-daki(湯滝)tothelakeYu-no-ko(湯の湖),thenaroundthelaketoYumotoOnsenandthebusbacktoNikkō(¥1650,1½hours).BeforeleavingYumotoOnsen,youmightspottoresthiking-wearymuscles.Tohikedownhill,takethebustoYumotoandfollowthisrouteinreverse.TheJapanesearchipelagoisfilledwithonsen,butthestarintheKantoareahot-springfir-mamentisGunma-ken.Mineralbathsseemtobubbleoutofthegroundateveryturnin

thismountainouslandscape,andsomesmallasmallselection.KusatsuOnsen草津温%0279/popAROUNDKusatsuhasbeenfamousforitswaterssincetheKamakuraPeriod.TheirsourceisYuba-tre,flowingat5000Lperminuteandtoppedwithwooden fromwhichKusatsu’sryokanfilltheirbaths.Astrollhereinyouryukata(cottonbathrobe)isamust.Kusatsu’swatersarerelativelyheavywithsulphuricAROUNDStopinorphonethecityhalltouristsection(%88-0001;h8.30am-5.30pm),nexttothebusstation(Englishspeakeronhand,whocanhelp modation).Ontheweb, h9am9pm),knownforitstubsatavarietyoftemperatures;trydifferentonesforanex-perienceknownasawase-yu(mix-and-matchwaters)AttheparkSai-no-kawara-kōen(西の河原公園)westoftownisa500sqmetreKusatsualsooffersauniqueopportunitytoseeyumomiinwhichlocalwomenstirthewaterstocoolthem,infolk-dancestylewhilesingingafolksong.It’snexttoYubatakeatthebathhouseNetsunoYu(熱の湯%88-Innsinthetowncentrearemostlyexpensive,butthe12-roomAlpine-vibePen-sionSegawa(ペンションセガワ;%88-1288;fax88-1377;rper minutewalkfromthebusterminal(ownerswillpickyouup).ChooseaWestern-orJapa-nese-styleroomandthreedifferentbathtubs,andlookforfresh-bakedbread.Plus,there’satenniscourt(inseason).Thoughyoumightnotknowfromlook-ingatitstowernexttoYubatake,HoIchii(ホテル一井%88-0011fax88-0111rperincltwomealsfrom¥14,000a)hasbeenaKusatsuinstitutioninbusinessfor300-plusyears.Inadditiontoin-roombaths,ofcoursethereareindoorandoutdoorbathsseparatedbygender.Expectsansai(mountainvegetable)196NORTHOFTOKYO•• WESTOFTOKYO••GhibliMuseumAROUNDTransporttoKusatsuOnsenisbybusfromNaganohara-Kusatsuguchistation.FromUeno,tokkyūKusatsutrainstakeabout2½hours(¥5130)toNaganohara-Kusatsuguchistation,thenlocalbustoKusatsuOnsen(¥670,30minutes).Alternatively,taketheshinkansentoTakasakiandtransfertotheBuses( AROUNDMinakami&Takaragawa水上温泉・宝川温IneasternGunma-ken,Minakamiisathriv-ingonsentownwithoutdooractivitiestomatch.ThetownofMinakamialso passesTakaragawaOnsen(about30minutesawaybyroad),ariversidespaoft-votedthenation’sbest.ThetrainstationisinthevillageofMi-nakamiOnsen,asaremostofMinakami’s h9am-5.15pm)isacrossfromthestation,hasEnglishpamphletsandcanmake dationreservations(inJapanese).Askwhichinnsintownhavehigaerinyuyoku(day-usebaths)openwhenyouvisit.Tenjin-dairafromwherehikingtrips,rangingfromacoupleofhourstoalldayareavailablefromMaytoNovember,conditionspermit-ting.There’sskiingandsnowboardinginwinter(DecembertoMay).FromMinakamistation,takeabustoRopeway-Eki-maebusstop(¥650,abouthourly).Anumberofoperatorsleadraftingandkayakingtripsinwarmermonthsandwinterexpeditions,suchassnowshoeing,fromabout¥6000forahalf-day.Inquireattheinformationcentre.Max(%72-4844)isatypicaloutlet,withEnglish-speakingguides.TakaragawaOnsen(%75-261;¥1500/1000;h9am-4pm)isidyllicandrangey.Mostofitsseveralpoolsontheriverbanks(withslate,notnatural,flooring)aremixedbathing,withonewomen-onlybath.Womenareencouragedtotakemodestytowelsintothemixedbaths.Thecoveredwalkwaydowntothebathsislinedwithcollections

of…well…stuffthatmusthavetakendecadestoassemble:antiqueteapotstoPoohbearsandsticflowers.Asmallrestaurantservesudon,sobaandkamameshi(ricetoppedwithotheringredientsinametalpot).oTheadjacentinn,Ōsenkaku(%75-2121;fax75-2038;rper spectacular,withgorgeousriverfrontroomsoverseveralbuildings,amightyold-stylefeeland24-houruseoftheoutdooronsen,andyougettoavoidthecoveredwalkway.Pricesrisesteeplyfornicerroomswithbet-terviews.ToreachMinakamistation,taketheshinkansenfromUenotoTakasakiandtrans-fertotheJōetsuline(¥5650,twohours),ortokkyūMinakamitrainsrundirect(¥5130,2½hours).Youcanalsocatchtheshinkansento(¥5240/5040),fromwherebusesruntoMi-ApriltoearlyDecember).%029/popCapitalofIbarakiPrefectureandaone-timecastletown,Mitoisbestknownforthegarden,Kairaku-en(偕楽園;%244-garden/Kobunteipavilion¥190;hgarden6am-7pmIt’soneofthethreemost-celebratedland-scapegardensinJapan;theothertwoareKen-roku-en(p294)inKanazawaandKōraku-eninOkayama(above).The18-acreKairaku-endatesbackto1842whenitwasbuiltbythedaimyōoftheMitohan( ),amemberoftheclanofthegardentoenjoywithpeople’,anditwasoneofthefirstgardensinthenationtoopentothepublic,decadesbeforetheadventofpublicparksfollowingtheMeijiRestoration.Thegardensremainpopularfortheir3000ume(plumblossom)trees,some100varie-tiesofwhichbloominlateFebruaryorearlyMarch.Aplumblossomfestivaltakesceherearoundthistime(contacttheJNTOorlocaltouristoffice%224-0441fordates).Otherfloweringtrees(azaleas,camellias,cherryetc)makeforimpressiveviewinginotherseasons,andthehillsidesettingal-lowsbroadviews.Thethree-storeypavilionKobun-teiisafaithful1950sreproductionofthedaimyo’svilla(theoriginalwasdestroyedduringWWII).

FromTokyo,JRJōbanlinetrainsdepartminutes);connectbylocaltraintoKairaku-enstation(¥180,fiveminutes),takeabustoKairaku-enbusstop(¥230,15minutes)orwalk(about30minutes)fromthestation’ssouthexitalongthelakeSenba-ko. Tokyo-to(TokyoPrefecture)includesmanycitiesinadditiontoTokyoproper;mostarealongtheChūōlineasitheadstowardsYa-manashi-ken.SouthandwestofthesearethescenicFujiGo-koregion,MtFujiitself,thetouristmeccaofHakone,andtheonsenandbeachresortsoftheIzu-hantō.GhibliMuseum三鷹の森ジブ