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contentsThedefinitionofcheongsamTheoriginofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructure

ofcheongsamRepresentativefiguresMypersonalopinionsoncheongsamPicturesappreciating第一页第二页,共31页。Thedefinition(定义)TheQiPaoorChi-Pao,alsoknownasthecheongsamormandaringown(长袍);Abody-hugging(紧身的)one-piece(连衣裙)Chinesedress;TheEnglishvocabularycheongsamcomesfromtheCantonese(广东话).ItisknowninMandarinChinese(普通话)astheqípáoinBeijingandShanghai.第二页第三页,共31页。TheCheongsam(旗袍)camefromtheManchus(满族人)whogrewoutof(产生于)ancientNuzhentribes(女真部落).Intheearly17thcentury,Nurhachi(努尔哈赤),agreatpoliticalandmilitarystrategist,unifiedthevariousNuzhentribesandsetuptheEightBannersSystem(八旗制度).Overtheyears,acollarless(无领),tube-shapedgownwasdeveloped,whichwaswornbybothmenandwomen.Thatistheembryo(胚胎)oftheQipao.ThedressiscalledQipaoinChineseortranslatedas“bannergown(旗服)",foritcamefromthepeoplewholivedundertheBannerSystem.Theorigin(起源)第三页第四页,共31页。WideandlooseCoverbodyA-line第四页第五页,共31页。WhycallQipaochinadressQipao,whichisfamouswithitsharmonyandunity,isknownastherepresentativeoftheChinesedressculture.Itshowstheeleganttemperament(优雅气质)ofChinesewomen,demonstratestheculture(文化)andvirtues(美德)ofournation.Itcreatesanimpressionofsimplicityandquiet,charm,eleganceandneatness..It’samagnificentrainbowofthehumanculture.第五页第六页,共31页。Theevolution(历史沿革)ThelateQingDynasty.

AftertheOpiumWar(鸦片战争),theEuropean-stylesuitsenteredChinafirst.Thewideandloosebodyhadgraduallybecomeshortandnarrow.In1919,theOrdinance(法令)aboutgarmentswasannouncedbytheNationalGovernmentandcheongsamwasestablishedtobethenationalgarments.In1920sIntheearlyRepublicofChina(中华民国),thecheongsambegantobepopularagain.Thebodybecameshortened.Thewaist

(腰部)wasnarrowed.Latertherewasanewchangethatstyleofcollar(领子)washighlightedtobefashionabletoshowfeminineappearance.第六页第七页,共31页。Fromthe1950sto1960sIntheEastAsia,thefoundingofthePeople’sRepublicofChinamarkstheendoftheoldlife.Thecheongsam,whichhasbeencherishedbypeopleforalongtimewasnotpracticalandwassetaside(放置一旁).Butin1950sand1960s,cheongsamsbegantoshowupagain

(再次出现)inthepeople'slives.Fromthe1930sto1940s

1930sand1940ssawthecheongsaminitspeakfashion(时尚顶峰).AffectedbythestylesoftheEurope,astepforwardwasmadeinexposingthefemalefigure(女性曲线).Thecheongsamin1930swasshortenedwiththelengthtotheknees,andthecuffs(袖口)werealsonarrowed.

GoldenEraInmoderntimes.Popularagainnow.From1966to1976CulturalRevolution(文革),disaster第七页第八页,共31页。1920s1930s

1940s第八页第九页,共31页。Thedistinction(区别)Qing:broad,flat,longtofeet,silk.Rep:shapedwaist.Qing:wearingslacks,seethebottomoftrousersfromtheopening.Rep:wearingsilkstockings,showthelegs.Qing:usebrocade(织锦)orjacquard(提花织物).Rep:printedfabric(印花织物),simplicity.distinction第九页第十页,共31页。QingdynastyRepublicofChina第十页第十一页,共31页。Frog盘扣Thestructure立领襟衩刺绣Mandarincollar立领Lapel/frontofagarment襟Openings衩embroidery刺绣第十一页第十二页,共31页。Thestyle(样式)Chi-paohasmanystyles,andthechangeismainlybasedonsleeves,Jin,collar,openings,andthelengthofCheongsam.Sleeves(袖子):widesleeves,narrowandlongsleeves,middlesleeves,shortsleevesorsleeveless.Jin(襟):roundJin,straightJin,slantingJin(斜襟),doubleJin(双襟),PipaJin(琵琶襟),andsoon.Collar(领):highcollar,lowcollar,orcollarless.Openings(开衩):highopenings,lowopenings,noopening第十二页第十三页,共31页。longsleevesshortsleevessleeveless.第十三页第十四页,共31页。如意襟琵琶襟斜襟双襟第十四页第十五页,共31页。高领低领无领第十五页第十六页,共31页。高开衩低开衩第十六页第十七页,共31页。Thefactions(派别)TheBeijingstyle,withred-tapism,appearsreservedandconcise京派风格则带有官派作风,显得矜持凝练;ShanghaistylewithacharacterizationofabsorbingtheWestArtsisup-to-date,flexibleandhasastrongbusinessatmosphere.海派风格以吸收西艺为特点,标新且灵活多样,商业气息浓厚。第十七页第十八页,共31页。京派第十八页第十九页,共31页。海派第十九页第二十页,共31页。Representativefigures张爱玲EileenChang(1920-1995)

Awell-knownwriter,beaddictedtocheongsam.Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.生命是一袭华美的袍子,上面

爬满了虱子。

衣服是一种言语,随身带着一种袖珍戏剧……贴身的环境——那就是衣服,我们各人住在各人的衣服里第二十页第二十一页,共31页。宋美龄SoongMay-ling(1897-2003)FirstladyinRepublicofChina.旗袍第一夫人Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.第二十一页第二十二页,共31页。邓丽君WherethereareChinesethereishervoice,shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam,cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend.有华人的地方就有邓丽君的歌声,她成全了旗袍的美丽,旗袍成就了她的传奇。第二十二页第二十三页,共31页。

Inthefilm《IntheMoodforLove》(似水年华)

,MaggieCheung(张曼玉)changemorethan23setsofqipao,afterthemovierelease,Itsetoffarushof“cheongsamhot(旗袍热)."Can’titarouseourdeeplythinkingabouttheculturalchangeofcheongsam?Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen第二十三页第二十四页,共31页。第二十四页第二十五页,共31页。MypersonalopinionsonqipaoThecheongsam,asadazzlingexoticflowerinChina‘snationalapparel(服装),willnotonlyexistinthefuturebutalsocontinuetobeinfullbloomtogetherwiththewonderfulgarmentsintheworld,becausetheuniquebeauty(美丽),demeanor(

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