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abc
GlobalResearch
12October2026
ChinaCosmeticsSector
NavigatingaK-shapedmarket
Equities
China
LeisureGoods&Services
IngridZhang
Analyst S1460517080003ingrid.zhang@+86-21-38668853
ThisreporthasbeenpreparedbyUBSSecuritiesCo.Limited.ANALYSTCERTIFICATIONANDREQUIREDDISCLOSURES,includinginformationontheQuantitativeResearchReviewpublishedbyUBS,beginonpage26.
Figure1:UBSChinaLeisureandTransportTeam
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026本UBS端银2
XinChen
ExecutiveDirector
HeadofChinaLeisure&Transport+86-21-38668864
xin.chen@
ChinaDuty-Free,Lodging,Tourism,andAirports
XinChen
ExecutiveDirector
HeadofChinaLeisure&Transport
+86-21-38668864
xin.chen@
BettyDu
ResearchAssociate
+86-21-38668753
betty-za.du@
WenChen
ResearchAssociate+86-21-38668259
wen.chen@
ChinaCosmetics,MedicalAesthetics,andHPC
IngridZhang
ExecutiveDirector
ChinaBeauty&
LeisureAnalyst
+86-21-38668853
ingrid.zhang@
JunyiZhang
ResearchAssociate
+86-21-38668355
Junyi.zhang@
ChinaLogisticsChinaAirlines
AaronLuo
Director
ChinaTransportAnalyst
+86-21-38668887aaron.luo@
BruceMi
AssociateDirector
ChinaTransport
Analyst
+86-21-38668851
bruce.mi@
Source:UBS-S
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc3
Figure2:Summaryofratingsandpricetargets
CompanyName
Ticker
MarketCap
(USDm)
Rating
Closeprice
(LC)
PriceTarget
(LC)
26-28EPS
CAGR
2026E
P/E(x)2027E
2028E
PEG
2027E
2026E
EV/EBITDA
2027E
2028E
2026E
ROE(%)2027E
2028E
2026E
FCFYield2027E
2028E
Botanee
300957.SZ
2,098
Neutral
32.69
34.50
10%
22.1
19.3
18.2
1.9
11.3
10.2
9.4
10.0
10.8
10.9
4.7%
4.9%
5.3%
Bloomage
688363.SH
2,511
Neutral
34.64
40.00
12%
43.5
39.5
34.7
3.3
25.2
21.6
19.3
5.3
5.6
6.2
3.0%
2.1%
2.8%
Marubi
603983.SH
1,744
Neutral
28.66
28.20
12%
44.4
37.5
35.5
3.2
31.1
26.2
24.7
7.4
8.6
8.9
2.4%
2.7%
2.9%
Jahwa
600315.SH
1,954
Sell
19.08
14.30
16%
40.4
34.5
30.2
2.2
45.5
37.9
32.5
4.6
5.1
5.6
2.4%
2.5%
2.9%
GiantBiogene
2367.HK
3,256
Neutral
23.08
32.20
7%
11.5
10.5
9.9
1.5
7.0
6.0
5.1
18.2
17.4
16.6
7.2%
9.1%
9.8%
Chicmax
2145.HK
1,113
Neutral
22.04
24.70
8%
16.5
14.5
13.8
1.8
8.8
7.7
7.2
15.9
16.2
15.6
7.6%
4.3%
5.7%
MaoGeping
1318.HK
2,904
Neutral
46.24
50.50
16%
13.7
11.5
10.0
0.7
8.5
6.9
5.6
27.7
26.5
25.1
5.7%
7.1%
8.5%
Shiseido
4911.T
8,309
Neutral
3286.00
3673.50
19%
29.8
23.2
20.9
1.2
10.6
9.3
8.8
7.2
8.9
9.4
3.6%
4.5%
4.7%
Ruoyuchen
003010.SZ
1,207
Buy
25.62
40.90
33%
21.1
15.4
12.0
0.5
17.3
12.6
9.7
44.2
44.4
43.0
2.1%
5.2%
6.4%
Average
15%
27.0
22.9
20.6
1.8
18.4
15.4
13.6
15.6
15.9
15.7
4.3%
4.7%
5.4%
Source:Reuters,Wind,UBS-Sestimates;Note:Priceanddataasof12Oct2026
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc4
Section1
2025-26recoveryonthemarginamidstructuraldivergence
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc5
1)Premium:Premiumbrandscontinuetakingshare
Premiumskincareandmakeupgrewstronglyin2025and1H26,drivenbyimprovingsentiment,wealtheffectsandfavourableplatformtraffic;persistentrankinggainsacrosspremiumbrandssuggesttherecoveryisstructural,withpremiumplayersincreasinglygainingsharefromthebroadermarket.
Figure3:Premiummakeupandskincarebrands'TmallGMV(YoY)–strongperformancein2025and1H26
Makeup
120%
YoY2022-24CAGR2025H126
44%
23%
57%
33%
-18%
Guerlain
5%
25%
9%
NARS
-4%
-8%
-29%
YvesSaintLaurentTomFord
-4%
-5%
-1%
10%
27%
5%
Chanel
ShuUemura
Skincare
YoY2022-24CAGR2025H126
-27%
-20%
-16%
1%
-1%
-19%
35%
4%
31%
54%
8%
49%
29%
26%
43%
%
%
EsteeLauder
Lancome
CPB
SkinCeuticals
5%
LaMerSK-II
Source:UBSEvidenceLab:OnlineMarketMonitor
Figure4:Thereboundcanbepartiallyexplainedbythestockmarketwealtheffect
StockMarketPerformanceandtheWealthEffect250
200
150
100
50
Jan-20
Apr-20
Jul-20
Oct-20
Jan-21
Apr-21
Jul-21
Oct-21
Jan-22
Apr-22
Jul-22
Oct-22
Jan-23
Apr-23
Jul-23
Oct-23
Jan-24
Apr-24
Jul-24
Oct-24
Jan-25
Apr-25
Jul-25
Oct-25
Jan-26
Apr-26
Jul-26
0
CSI300STAR50HSCI
Source:Wind
Figure5:Premiumbrandsales'rankingimproving
Premiumcorecohortavgrank(cohortsizeadjusted,festivalpaired)
20222023202420252026
Marginalimprovementwithacolargerslope
D11series:#11.15to#10.31(+0.84positions,mild)
618series:#13.00to#9.23(+3.77positions,monotonic)
D11series-Premiumcorecohortavgrank618series-Premiumcorecohortavgrank
9.09.510.010.511.011.512.012.513.013.5
Source:Beautyinsight,UBS-S
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc6
2)Premium:Internationalisoutpacinglocal
GlobalbeautyMNCsbegantorecoverfrom2H25through2Q26,whileChineselistedcompanieshavehadamuchweakerandmoreuneventrajectoryoverthesameperiod.Therecoveryisaccruingprimarilytointernationalpremiumbrands,ratherthantothelocalcohortasawhole.
Morenotably,thisweaknesshaspersisteddespiteaclearincreaseinsellingandmarketingintensityacrossthelocalcohortin1H26.
Figure6:ChinasalesperformancerecoveredforglobalbeautyMNCsin1H26
beautyMNCs
Salesgrowthofglobal
15%
10%
5%
0%
-5%
-10%
-15%
-20%
-25%
1Q24
3Q24
2Q24
1Q25
2Q25
3Q25
4Q24
1Q26
2Q26
4Q25
L'Oreal(NorthAsiaLFL)
EsteeLauder(MainlandChinaOSG)
Shiseido(China&TRLFL)
P&G(GreaterChinaOSG)
Source:Companydata,UBS
Figure7:Locallistcos'salesperformancefailedtore-accelerateinstepwithglobalbeautyMNCs
Salesgrowthoflocallistcos
60.0%
50.0%
40.0%
30.0%
20.0%
10.0%
0.0%
-10.0%
-20.0%
-30.0%
-40.0%
1Q242Q243Q244Q241Q252Q253Q254Q251Q262Q26
MarubiBotanee
JahwaBloomage
GiantBiogene(H1/H2only)
Source:Companydata,UBS
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026本UBS端银7
3)Premium:Pricingpowerstillworksforpremiumsegment
ASPexplains~50%offoreignbrands'2025growthvariance(R²=0.50),indicatingpricingpowerremainsastrongproxyforbrandequity;premiumforeignbrandsoutperformed,whilemassandnon-premiumforeignbrandslagged,resultingintheforeigntop20trailingthelocaltop
20overall.
Figure8:Regressionscatterofforeign-brandASPvs.2025salesgrowthYoY(onlinechannel)
RegressionofsalesYoYgrowthonASP
70%
60%
50%
40%
30%
20%
10%
0%
-10%
-20%
-30%
-40%
0
■SkinCeuticas
y=0.0007x-0.188
R²=0.5026
■LaRoche-Posay
YvesSaintLaurent.
■LaMer
HelenaRubinstein
SK-II
800900
G
Shiseido
Clarins
Chanel
■Lancome
■GuerlainEstéeLauder
ClédePeauBeauté
400500600700
□Dior
Kiehl's
■L'Oreal.
Olay
NARS
KérastasePantene
100200300
Source:BeautyinSight
Figure9:Sales-weightedYoYgrowthoftop20foreignbrandsonTmall
Brand
Sales(Rmbmn)
ASP
YoY(96)
SalesweightedYoY(96)
HelenaRubinstein
6,746
804.5
31.28%
LaMer
9,093
800.2
59.69%
SK-II
6,932
746.8
28.83%
Guerlain
2,048
496.7
-2.68%
36.90%
Clarins
4,109
486.6
12.71%
skinCeuticals
553
418.7
4899%
Chanel--
3,065
380.3
6.43%
EstéeLauder
9,427
374.6
-0.20%
Lancome
9,631
348.1
2.42%
ClédePeauBeauté
4,060
344.6
-0.93%
YvesSaintLaurent
5,634
326.7
11.30%
Dior
2,472
258.4
-1.91%
Kiehl's
2,937
224.5
-5.42%
NARS
1,797
201.4
-21.88%
-1.04%
shiseido
3,657
186.7
4.50%
Kérastase
3,700
182.1
-23.36%
olay
5,274
179.6
-5.09%
LaRoche-Posay
2,785
129.4
27.25%
L·Oréal
13,112
121.7
-2.39%
Pantene
2,108
64.5[
-28.95%
Source:BeautyinSight,UBS-Sestimates
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc8
4)Mass:Fadingchannelandingredienttailwinds
Socialmedia,livestreamingandingredient-ledmarketingoncefuelledlocalbrandgains,butwebelievetoughertrafficacquisition,weakerdifferentiationandrisingcompetitionareerodingtheseadvantages.
Figure10:Shorteningsingle-ingredientdividendcycles
Revenuegrowth(%)ofcosmeticsdrivenbyhyaluronicacidandrecombinantcollagen250%
200%
150%
100%
50%
0%
-50%
-100%
5-6year
Growthinthisperiodwasdrivenprimarilyby
anti-HPVbioproteinproducts
3-4year
Bloomage(SkinScienceInnovationandTranslationBusiness)GiantBiogene(Beauty,HealthandFitnessProduct)
JinboBio(TotalRevenue)
Source:Companydata,UBS-S
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc9
5)Mass:HighASPisnolongerenoughtodrivelocalbrandgrowth
ASPnolongerexplainsgrowthforlocalbrands(R²=0.08).Highpricinghasceasedtobeadefensivemoat,asperformanceisnowdeterminedbyinnovationspeedandexecutionratherthanpricepositioning.
Figure11:Regressionscatteroflocal-brandASPvs.2025salesYoY(onlinechannel)
RegressionofsalesYoYgrowthonASP
100%
80%
60%
40%
20%
0%
-20%
-40%
-60%
Chando
HBN
Pechoin
y=0.002x-0.1632
R²=0.0833
FlowerKnows
FanBeautyDiary
GrainRain
MaoGeping
KANS
Comfy
Proya
Vetes
Winona
TimageFlorasis
ZhibenSimpcareCarslan
RuyiOSM
Amortals
050100150200250
Source:BeautyinSight
Figure12:SalesweightedYoYgrowthoftop20localbrandsonTmall
BrandSales(Rmbmn)ASPYoY(%)
SalesweightedYoY(%)
206.8
187.1
170.5
168.6
151.1
141.4
132.6
105.4
105
100.4
97
94.8
93.2
84.4
76.9
73.1
70.2
60.1
55.1
33.4
3,773
4,129
2,911
10,450
1,349
5,049
2,257
1,787
4,266
1,709
5,060
1,155
11,375
2,532
2,285
3,849
972
876
947
967
36.99%
12.08%
4.18%
-2.66%
44.68%
26.08%
-22.10%
-25.92%
7.61%
50.83%
MaoGepingComfy
HBN
Proya
FanBeautyDiaryGrainRain
Florasis
TimageWinona
FlowerKnows
20.36%
-19.82%
30.35%
-27.14%
-20.53%
92.24%
Chando
SimpcareKANS
OSM
Carslan
Pechoin
-24.01%
-22.83%
5.59%
-40.48%
Ruyi
Zhiben
Vetes
Amortals
14.42%
Source:BeautyinSight,Tmall
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026本UBS瑞银10
6)Mass:Whitelabelsareemergingasastructuralcompetitor
Whitelabelsremainthefastest-growingsegment,withcohortGMVup52%YoYandaccountingfor71%ofnewTop-100entrants,suggestingscalegainsmorethanoffsetbrandturnover.Moreimportantly,leadingplayersareevolvingfromtrafi-cdrivenhero-SKUmodelstowardbrandbuilding,whileexpandingintotheRmb80-230ASPrange,bringingthemintodirectcompetitionwithlocallistedbrands.
Figure13:White-labeltier-coremetricbreakdown,2024vs.2025
Metries
Value
White-labelsintop-100,2024
16units
White-labelsintop-100,2025
24units
Netaddition
8units(+50%)
1-yearsuvivalrateof2024white-labels
43.75%
Newwhite-labelentrantsin2025
17units
White-labelsas%ofnewtop-100entrantsin2025
71%
Aggregatewhite-labelGMV,2024
~17.9Rmnbn
Aggregatewhite-labelGMV,2025
~27.2Rmnbn
White-labe/aggregateGMVYoY
52%
White-labe/shareoftop-100GMVchange
From6.6%to94%,+2.8ppts
Source:BeautyinSight
Figure14:White-labelASPthree-tierdistributionmappedagainstkeylocalbrands'ASPs(2025Tmalldata)
350
Pechoin73Timage105
Yoyu33Kans93Rorasis133
Wenboshi
PRAMY
Baiyunshan
Ruyi
BABI
C-Crystal
Kaweido
Xiukefu
DINESSR
Zaowuzhe
50100150
200300
Comfy187MaoGeping207
ASP■Tier1(Rmb30-80)■Tier2(Rmb81-140)■Tier3(Rmb141-280)
Source:BeautyinSight,Tmall
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc11
Section2
HowbeautycompaniesnavigategrowthchallengesinChina
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc12
1)GlobalMNCmoatsremaindurable
Premium-focusedportfoliosshouldbenefitfromtherecovery,whilehero-franchiseextensions,long-termbrandbuildingandmechanism-ledR&Dreinforcepricingpower.
Figure15:InternationalMNCsinnovatedaroundheroproductsin1H26
ParentGroup
Brand
ProductName
Price
CoreIngredients/Technology
ClaimedBenefits
IterationUpgrade/CategoryExpansion
EsteeLauder
EsteeLauder
Re-NutrivBlackMythCream
RMB1,980/30ml
Sirtuin™
Repairandanti-aging
Categoryexpansion
EsteeLauder
AdvancedNightRepairRevitalizingEssence
RMB510/100ml
175nmmicrocapsuledeep-deliverytechnology
Deeprepair
Categoryexpansion
LaMer
NewLaMerConcentrateSerum
RMB3,370/30ml
Neuralstress-calmingtechnology
Sensitive-skinrepairandanti-aging
Iterationupgrade
Lancôme
AdvancedGenifiqueIntensiveRepairBalm
RMB780/20ml
Mini-microcapsuleβ-glucoseextract
Emergencyrepair,wrinklereductionandanti-aging
Categoryexpansion
L'Oreal
Lancome
AbsolueMDAge-SpecificSupplementSerum
RMB1,180/50ml;
RMB1,750/50ml
Mito-Pure
Age-specificanti-aging
Categoryexpansion
LVMH
Helena
Rubinstein
6th-GenerationPowercellSerum
RMB1,580/50ml
Nano-scaleseafennelcellextract
Repairandanti-aging
Iterationupgrade
SkinCeuticals
NewlyUpgradedPhytoCorrectiveSerum
RMB650/30ml
PHYTOBOTANICALcomplexwithnewPDRN
Soothing,repairandacnecare
Iterationupgrade
Fresh
NewFreshCrèmeAncienne
RMB1,590/30ml
Chiosgoldenextract
Repairandanti-aging
Iterationupgrade
Guerlain
SuperVRecoveryCream
RMB1,650/50ml
BlackBeedeep-repairtechnology
Nighttimerepair
Categoryexpansion
Shiseido
CPB
NewSculptingCream
Approx.RMB3,280/50ml
Sculptingrevitalizationcomplex
Anti-aging
Categoryexpansion
Chanel
Chanel
N°1deChanelRedCamelliaEmulsion
RMB1,220/100ml
Camelliaresurfacingcompound
Hydration,oilcontrol,firmingandwrinkle
reduction
Categoryexpansion
Source:CosmeticsBusinessOnline
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc13
2)Localpremiumisationisunlikelytoscalewithinfiveyears
Sub-brandshavestruggledtoestablishameaningfulpresenceatRmb500+priceband,andmoststandalonelaunchesremainbelowRmb100minrevenuescale,constrainedbynon-compressibleheritage,persistentperceptiongapsandweakerpremium-channel,pricing,creativeandR&Dcapabilities.
Figure16:Brandequitybuildcycle–globalpremiumvs.Chinanewpremiumattempts
Brandequitybuildcycle:globalpremiumvs.Chinanewpremiumattempts
30-yearthrehold(1996)
Shiseido(Japan)Albion(Japan)CosmeDecorteSK-II(Japan)
Sulwhasoo(Korea,Amorepacific)
Whoo(Korea,LGH&H)Herbeast
Shuangmei(revival,Jahwa)Wenxian
BIOLAB(Boshe)Aoxmed(Botanee)
154
70
56
46
29
23
8
6
5
4
5
18701890191019301950197019902010
Source:Companydata,UBS-S
Figure17:Locallistcos'premiumself-incubationattempts–casesummary
Brand
Submode
Parent
FoundedTime
Status
Taichi
Premiumsubbrandunderexistingcorebrand
Herborist
~2010s
Limitedprogress
Tang
Premiumsubbrandunderexistingcorebrand
Inoherb
-
Limitedprogress
HBN
Premiumsubbrandunderexistingcorebrand
-
-
Limitedprogress
Aoxmed
standalonenewpremiumbrand
Botanee
2022
<Rmb100mn
Shuangmei
standalonenewpremiumbrand
ShanghaiJahwa
2020
<Rmb100mn
BIOLAB
standalonenewpremiumbrand
Yatsen
2021
<Rmb100mn
Herbeast
standalonenewpremiumbrand
-
2018
<Rmb100mn
Wenxian
standalonenewpremiumbrand
-
2021
<Rmb100mn
Source:Companydata,UBS-S
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc14
Figure18:Age18-24skincarenetspendingfellsharplyto47%from58%
Netspendmorevsless6monthsagobyage
70%
58%
60%
50%
47%
Net%
39%33%
39%
40%
36%
30%
20%
10%
0%
Apr2022'Dec2022'Aug2023'Aug2024'Aug2025'May2026'Surveywave
Age18-24Age25-34Age35-44Age45+
Source:UBSEvidenceLab
Figure19:Age18-24spendingdriversbycategory
Age18–24spend-upreasonsbycategory
0%5%10%15%20%25%30%35%40%
Ipurchasemorepremiumproduct
TherearemoreproductsavailabletobuyIhavemoreneedsfortheseproductsthanbefore
AdditionalstepsinmybeautyroutineIamstilllookingforproductsthatsuitmyneedsIt'seasiertofindproductsIlike
Ihavemoremoneytospend
SkincareMakeupHaircare
Source:UBSEvidenceLab
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc15
3)Partnershipsmayofferabetterrisk-rewardprofilethanM&A
DurableM&Asuccessrequiresmeaningfulbrandequity,adiversifiedefficacy-ledportfolio,disciplinedtimingandvaluation,capabilityfitandtransfer,andfounderretention.Functionalorwhite-spacecategories—especiallypremiumandupper-masstigehaircare—offerbetteroddsthanlegacyluxury.
Partnershipmodelscanlowerexecutionriskwhilepreservingbrandcontrol,asseeninJuYi–FurtererandAnta–FILAChina.JuYi’sexclusiveChinarightsforFurtererretainIP,R&Dandpricingdisciplineupstreamwhilefocusingthelocalpartneronchannelexecution,localisationandKOLoperations.Anta’sGreaterChinamodelforFILAdemonstratesthatstronglocalexecutioncanscaleapremiumbrandwithoutfullownershipoftheglobalasset.
Figure20:SelectbeautyM&Atransactions–dealtermsandoutcomes(2016-24)
5.4x
7.7x
8.5x
N/A
3.2x
2.5X
N/A
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
$1.45bn
$1.3bn
$845mn
N/A
Rmb535.5mn,Pre-money
valuationRMB1bn
€49.5mn
N/A
100%
100%
100%
Seeleft
51%
90.05%
None
Nov2016
Mar2017
Oct2019
Oct2020-Mar2021
Nov2023
Jul2022
Jan2024
Underpressure
Majorsuccess
Fellshortofexpectations
Onaweakeningtrajectory
Fellshortofexpectations
Inprogress,
groupfinancialsunderpressure
Earlysuccess
EstéeLauder
L’Oréal
Shiseido
Yatsen
Botanee
S'Young
JuYiGroup
TooFacedCeraVe
DrunkElephant
Galénic(90%)andEVELOM(Majority)
Pure&MildplusZaoperatingright
EviDenSdeBeauté
RenéFurterer
(ExclusiveChinalicense)
DealDateAcquirerTargetConsiderationStakeTargetRevenue(atacquisition)ImpliedPSOutcome
2016:~$270mn
CeraVestandalone~$140mn2018:$75mn
N/A
2022:Rmb308mn
2021:€19.7mn
2022:Tmallchannel~RMB280mn
Source:Companydata,UBS-S
Figure21:2025top30brandpricetierdistribution–premiumdominatedbyfewandcrowdedmid-tier
X-axis:ASP(Rmb)vs.Y-axis:2025GMV(Rmb100mn)
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
MassMasstigePremium
Opportunitypriceband
Kérastase
L'Oréal
Pantene
Head&Shoulders
Schwarzkopf
SpesHexyEHD
ViddalSassoonQiechu
Vites
Adolph
Off&Relax
Ruoyhangfa
BanmuHuatian
Kangwang
Gelasige
Xiaozhai
Shiseido
Bee&
Furterer
Vichy
Flower
Clear
050100150200250
Source:Beautyinsight
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc16
4)Sustainableoverseasgrowthrequiresmorethanexecution
SkintificdemonstratesthatsuccessfuloverseasexpansionrequiresmorethanChina’smanufacturingadvantages,combiningsupplychainefficiency,localizedproductdevelopment,affordablemasstigepositioning,andcontent-commerceexecutiontoachieverapidgrowthinIndonesia.However,itsrelianceonplatform-drivengrowthandareplicableoperatingmodelenabledadjacentfollowersusingsimilarOEMsuppliersandmarketingplaybookstoquicklygainshare,underscoringthatsustainablelong-termgrowthultimatelydependsondifferentiatedinnovation,localbrandequity,andconsumerloyaltyratherthanexecutionalone.
Figure22:Indonesiaserumandessencecategoryshare–Skintificvs.Indonesianlocalbrands(3Q24)
Indonesiaserum&essencecategoryshare—Skintificvs.Indonesianlocalbrands(3Q24)
12.00%
10.00%
8.00%
6.00%
4.00%
2.00%
0.00%
10.10%
Indonesianlocalscombined:18.50%
insomemonthshaveexceededSkintific
5.90%
6.10%
4.00%
2.50%
SkintificElformulaSomethincY.O.UGlad2Glow
Source:Third-partyShopeetracking,UBS-S
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026abc17
Section3
Threeprovenpathstoscale:LessonsfromK-beauty
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026本UBS瑞银18
1)PathA:APR-styleorganicbuildisdifficulttoreplicate
APR'sdecade-longfounder-ledexpansion,hardwareandingredientintegration,andglobaldistributiondelivered75%+grossmarginsbutrequiredexceptionaltimeandmarketingintensity.ChineseplayerscanselectivelyadoptdevicesandupstreamIP,butwebelievethefullmodelisunlikelywithinthreetofiveyears.
Social-commerce
AprilskinvwralviaFB/IG/
2017
2014
Figure23:APR's10-yearcompoundingsequence-whypathAishardtoreplicateina3-to5-yearwindow
Hardwarejump
AGE-Rhomebeauty
2021
KOSPIIPO+in-
housePDRN
Verticalintegrationat
rawmateriallayer
2025
2024
USnational
AmazontoUS
Firstowned
2ndbrand
Medicubelaunch
factory
APFactoryGasan
10-yearfounder-ledcategory-extensionsequence
Source:UBS-S
Figure24:APR'sself-builddeliveredstable75%+grossmarginatscaleasatraditionalbeautycompany
APR'sfinancialsfrom2023to2025
1,800
90%
1,600
80%
1,400
70%
1,200
60%
1,000
50%
800
40%
600
30%
400
20%
200
10%
0%
2023
2024
2025
Revenue(Wonbn)
Netprofit(Wonbn)
——Gross
margin(%)——Net
margin(%)
Source:Companydata,UBS-S
ChinaCosmeticsSector12October2026本UBS瑞银19
Figure25:Aggregationdelivershigh-marginscalewithoutowningmanufacturing-Goodai'sasset-lightplatformmodel
2)PathB:Goodai-styleaggregationisthemostactionable
Goodaiscaledan11-brand,asset-lightportfoliothroughdisciplinedacquisitionswhilepreservingbrandautonomy.WethinkChineselistcosshouldtargetpre-breakoutODM-0EMhybridswithrealconsumerinsight,productteamsandSKUiteration,supportedbyscalablesharedinfrastructureandwillingnesstodivest.
Goodai'sfinancialsfrom2023to2025
1,600
70%
1,400
60%
1,200
50%
1,000
800
40%
600
30%
400
20%
200
10%
0%
2023
2024
2025
Revenue(Wonbn)
Netprofit(Wonbn)——
Grossmargin(%)——Netmargin(%)
Source:Compan
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