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触及颠峰000002米高梅影业巨献000030电影协会0001271985年,两个年轻的英国人|乔辛普森和西蒙耶茨000130远赴秘鲁一个遥远角落000135作为两个雄心万丈的登山者000138他们的目标是征服西部一座|海拔2万1千英尺000141以险恶著称的修拉格兰峰000145从此在登山史上写下传奇的一页000207FILMFOUR和电影协会联合出品000207第四台与PBS协助拍摄000249DARLOWSMITHSON制作000333000725第一日001049第二日001457第三日002154第四日005004第五日011138第六日012324第七日014235遇险归来,乔的体重减轻了三分之一014240历经两年六次手术,乔重回登山生涯014243直至今日还在攀登014247西蒙因为割断同伴的绳014249回国饱受登山群体责难014251乔一直极力为他辩护014257至今,无人能步乔和西蒙之后尘014301成功攀登须拉格兰峰014333导演KEVINMACDONALD014339制片约翰SMITHSON014343改编自乔辛普森的014348剪辑贾斯汀怀特014351摄影MIKEELEY014355BRENDANMACKEY饰乔辛普森014359NICHOLASAARON饰SIMONYATES014403配乐ALEXHEFFES10001030100010425WECLIMBCAUSEITSFUN,我们登山是因其有趣20001042700010700ANDMAINLYITWASFUN,YOUKNOW登山大部分时候确实有趣30001070200010811THATSALLWEEVERDID,我们以前的举动40001081300011207ANDWEWEREFAIRLYANARCHICANDFAIRLYIRRESPONSIBLE,简直是无法无天不计后果50001121000011419ANDWEDIDNTGIVEADAMNABOUTANYONEELSEORANYTHINGELSE,我们不理会任何人或事60001142100011629ANDWEJUSTWANTEDTOCLIMBTHEWORLD,ANDITWASFUN我们只想攀登全世界|实在有趣70001170100011828ITWASJUSTBRILLIANTFUN,简直是乐趣无穷80001190000012304AND,EVERYNOWANDTHEN,ITWENTWILDLYWRONG,但有时情况也会糟糕透顶90001230600012603ANDTHENITWASNT而后又雨过天晴100001570500020015BYTHETIMEIWENTTOPERU,IWAS25SIMONWAS21去秘鲁那年|我25岁,西蒙21岁110002020800020406BUTWEHADDONEALOTOFCLIMBINGINTHEALPS我们在阿尔卑斯山脉|已攀登过多次120002160800021908TOCLIMBMOUNTAINSTHATHAVENOTBEENCLIMBEDBEFORE,攀人所未攀之山130002191100022025ORANEWROUTEUPAMOUNTAIN,登人所未登之径140002202800022409ISWHATMYCLIMBINGLIFEHADBEENMOVINGTOWARDS是我攀登生涯中所一直追求的150002342400023609AFRIENDOFOURSWHOHADDONE我们的一位160002361100023813ANAMAZINGAMOUNTOFCLIMBINGINSOUTHAMERICA在南美征服过无数险峰的朋友170002381500024104HADSEENTHISFACEINTHEMID70S曾在70年代中期见过这般景象180002431300024604ITHINKHESAIDITWOULDBE“ACHALLENGINGDAYOUT“他认为这必定是一次挑战之旅190002550000025815ITWASTHELASTBIGMOUNTAINFACEINTHISRANGEOFMOUNTAINS在这片群山峻岭之中|只剩下这一座200002581800030005THATHADNTBEENCLIMBED从未有人涉足210003022800030501THERESAGREATUNKNOWNTHERE那是片令人神往的未知领域220003050300030907WHATSSOCOMPELLINGISSTEPPINGINTOTHATUNKNOWN让人迫切想进去一窥其貌230003441400034824ITWASANISOLATEDSPOT,TWODAYSWALKFROMAROAD,那里人迹罕至,离公路还有两天路程240003482600035110ANDTHEMOUNTAINSALLAROUNDSEEMEDVERYBIG周围大山环绕250003511200035408COMPAREDTOTHEMOUNTAINSIDSEENINTHEALPS远超过我在阿尔卑斯山所见的山脉260004030300040621WEEVENTUALLYREACHEDASPOTONTHEAPPROACHTOSIULAGRANDE我们最终到达修拉格兰峰的入口270004062300041004YOUCOULDNTREALLYTAKEDONKEYSANYFURTHERTHANTHISPOINT这是驴子能到达的最后位置280004120100041515IGUESSITDBEFOURORFIVEMILESFROMTHEBOTTOMOFTHEMOUNTAINS距山脚有四五英里290004230300042527WEKNEWTHATSIULAGRANDEWASINTHEBACK,BUTWEDIDNTSEEIT修拉格兰峰就在前面,但在视线之外300004330400043525WEDMETTHISLADCALLEDRICHARDHAWKINGINLIMA我们在利马认识了一位小伙,叫理查德霍金310004352800043807HEDBEENTRAVELINGONHISOWN,ANDITHINKWESAID,他单身在外旅行,我们说320004380900044017“WHYDONTYOUJOINUSONOURTRIP“加入我们吧“330004401900044323ITHINKHESAIDHEDIDNTKNOWANYTHINGABOUTMOUNTAINEERING他说自己对登山一窍不通340004451200044727IDIDNTREALLYKNOWWHATPARTOFPERUIWASIN,我不知道自己在秘鲁什么位置350004472900045105ORQUITEWHATIWASLETTINGMYSELFINFOR也不知将要面对什么360004510700045401WEWANTEDRICHARDBECAUSEWHENWEWEREONTHEMOUNTAIN,邀请理查德加入,是因为我们希望370004540300045726IFHEWASATBASECAMP,HECOULDLOOKAFTEROURKIT他能帮我们照看用具380004572800050009IGOTTOKNOWSIMONQUITEWELL我跟西蒙混得很熟390005001100050404IDONTKNOWWHETHERITWASBECAUSEOFHISPERSONALITY可能是因为他的性格400005040700050706ORWHETHERITWASBECAUSEHEWASMOREFORGIVINGTOWARDSME或是因为他更容忍我410005070900051105BEINGANONCLIMBERINTHATENVIRONMENT,对登山的一无所知420005110700051521BUTIFOUNDITVERYHARDTOGETTOKNOWJOE但乔很难接近430005170800052102IWASMUCHMOREAMBITIOUSABOUTDOINGITTHANSIMONWAS我比西蒙意志要坚定得多440005242300052608SIULAGRANDEMEANTALOT修拉格兰峰意义非浅450005271200053006WEKNEWANUMBEROFEXPEDITIONSHADFAILEDONIT前人的几次努力都以失败告终460005321800053426IFNOONEHADTRIED,ITWOULDNTBEQUITETHESAME倘若从未有人尝试,意义就大不相同470005342800053628ITWASTHEFACTTHATPEOPLEHADTRIEDANDHADFAILED,正因为前人失败了480005370100053825SOWEKNEWITWASHARD才证明它难于攀登490005401600054409ANDMYFEELINGWAS,“WELL,WELLJUSTDOIT我们比他们在行500005441100054602WEREBETTERTHANTHEM“不妨一试510005540400055528SINCETHE1970S,20世纪70年代以来520005560000055906PEOPLEHAVEBEENTRYINGTOCLIMBMOUNTAINSINTHEGREATERRANGES流行着一种攀登方式530005590800060102INWHATSCALLEDALPINESTYLE叫“阿尔卑斯式“540006030200060624ESSENTIALLY,ALPINESTYLEMEANSYOUPACKARUCKSACK基本上,阿式风格即背一只背包550006062600061009FULLOFALLYOURCLOTHING,YOURFOOD,ANDYOURCLIMBINGEQUIPMENT,装满衣物,食品和登山器材560006101100061215ANDYOUSTARTOFFFROMABASECAMP,ANDYOUTRYANDCLIMB从基地出发570006121800061426THEMOUNTAINYOUREGOINGTOCLIMBINASINGLEPUSH一鼓作气,登上顶峰580006142900061816YOUDONTFIXALINEOFROPESUPITBEFOREHAND,不事先在山顶绑绳子590006181900062106YOUDONTHAVEASETOFCAMPSTHATYOUSTOCK也没有预先设置几个营地600006210800062317ANDCOMEUPANDBACKDOWNFROM供登山者休息610006231900062428THATSTHEPURESTSTYLE,这是最纯粹的方式620006250000062809ANDTHATSTHESTYLETHATJOEANDIHADCLIMBEDSIULAGRANDE乔和我正是采取这种纯粹的方式630006321300063627ITSAVERYCOMMITTINGWAYOFCLIMBING,BECAUSEYOUHAVENOLINEOFRETREAT这种登山方式很冒险,没有退路可走640006390600064207IFSOMETHINGGOESWRONG,ITCANBEVERY,VERYSERIOUS稍有差池,后果不堪设想650006440900064607THERESNORESCUE,THERESNOHELICOPTERRESCUE,没有直升机的救援660006460900064807ANDTHERESNOOTHERPEOPLE没有他人在场670006480900065108THERESNOMARGINFORERROR容不得半点差错680006511100065328IFYOUGETBADLYHURT,YOULLPROBABLYDIE倘若受了重伤,八成就会丧命690007022700070617IHADNTSEENITFROMTHISANGLE,ANDITLOOKEDSTEEP我没有从这个角度看过它,真是很陡700007061900070814ISORTOFTHOUGHT,我想710007081600071418YOUKNOW,“CHRIST,ITSBIG“老天,真大“720007142000071715LOOKSHARDERTHANITHOUGHT,THANIEXPECTED看来我低估了它730007171800071913BUTIWASEXCITED但我更激动了740007372800074011TOSTARTDOINGITISBRILLIANT起步是振奋人心的750007401300074213THISISWHATWELIVEFOR这是我们生命的终极目标760007580900075915BUSHED疲倦770008102700081228ILOVETHEACTUALMOVEMENTOFCLIMBING我热爱登山的动作780008130000081525WHENYOURECLIMBINGWELL,ITJUSTFEELSBRILLIANT情况顺利时,感觉棒极了790008152700081911ITSLIKEACOMBINATIONBETWEENBALLETANDGYMNASTICS攀登就像芭蕾和体操的结合800008191300082303ITSTHATMIXTUREOFPOWERANDGRACE融合了力与美810008281400083217FORME,MOUNTAINSARETHEMOSTBEAUTIFULPLACESINTHEWORLD我眼中,世上最美莫过于山820008321900083625WHENIGOINTOTHESEPLACES,IFEELANAMAZINGSENSEOFSPACE,到山上,我感觉无限的空间830008362700083819ANAMAZINGSENSEOFFREEDOM,无与伦比的自由感840008382100084212WHENIGETAWAYFROMALLOFTHECLUTTER似乎遗世独立850008421400084326THATWEHAVEINOURWORLD远离了尘世的喧嚣860009161200091905WESURPRISEDOURSELVESATTHESPEEDWEGOTUPTHEICEFIELD我们以出乎意料的速度到达冰层870009190700092021ITWAJIMISOFTUNREGISTEREDSOFTWAREONLYCONVERTPARTOFFILEREADHELPTOKNOWHOWTOREGISTERIMMENSEAMOUNTOFTRUST意味着彼此930009531800095601INSOMEONEELSESSKILLANDABILITY对对方技术和能力的极大信任940009570300095927BUT,ATSOMEPOINT,YOUMIGHTENDUPTHINKING,但有时你会想950009592900100127“FORGODSSAKES,SIMON,DONTFALLHERE老天,西蒙,千万别从这儿掉下去960010012900100322FORGODSSAKE,DONTFALLHERE“老天,千万别失手970010092400101207THEROPECANBESOMETHINGTHAT,RATHERTHANSAVEYOURLIFE,有时,绳子不能救人980010120900101323COULDKILLYOU反而会把你拖向死路990010132600101703IFYOURMATEFALLSOFFANDALLHISGEARRIPSOUT,YOUREDEAD倘若同伴跌落,工具失灵,你八成也难活命1000010170500101818YOUREGONNAGOWITHHIM两人将一同坠下1010010202400102214IFYOUREGOINGTODOTHATSORTOFCLIMBING,这种难度的登山1020010221600102419ATSOMEPOINTYOUREGOINGTOHAVETORELY要求你必须1030010251900102800WHOLLYONYOURPARTNER完全依赖同伴1040010370300103917ITHINKWEWEREVERYPLEASEDATTHEENDOFTHATFIRSTDAY首日一切顺利1050010391900104203WEHADDONEALOTOFCLIMBING,GOODCLIMBING,我们爬了很高,一切顺利1060010420500104700ANDWEWEREVERYCONFIDENTATTHATPOINTTHATWESHOULDMAKEIT非常看好成功的前景1070010512000105413ATTHATALTITUDE,YOUDEHYDRATEENORMOUSLY这种高度下,人脱水很快1080010541500105807YOUHAVETODRINKALOTOFFLUID,FOURORFIVELITERSADAY,一天要喝四到五升水1090010580900110102ANDTHEONLYWAYYOUCANGETITISBYMELTINGSNOW取得水的唯一办法是靠融雪1100011032800110520EVERYTHINGSSOTIMECONSUMING一切都那么耗时1110011052200111001TOMAKEASINGLEBREWATTHATALTITUDETAKESAVERYLONGTIME每一杯水都要很长时间1120011100300111311YOUREPERHAPSLOOKINGATANHOURJUSTTOMAKEACOUPLEOFCUPS一个小时只能烧几杯水1130011131400111527FORTHATREASON,WEPERHAPSDIDNTBREWUP因此,我们没有1140011152900111716ASMUCHASWESHOULDHAVEDONE像平时一样烧那么多水1150011171900112106BUTWEDIDNTHAVEANAWFULLOTOFSPAREGASWITHUS,EITHER尽管如此,身上的煤气已所剩不多1160011312900113522THERESNOTALOTOFRISKINOURLIVESNORMALLYNOW日常生活中没有太多风险1170011400800114307ANDTOPUTANELEMENTOFRISKBACKINTOIT为生活添加一些风险1180011430900114525TAKESUSOUTOFTHEHUMDRUM使我们脱离单调1190011470800114924INTHATSENSE,ITMAKESYOUFEELMOREALIVE从这个意义上说,登山让人更有活力1200011571500115901IDNEVERBEENTHATHIGHBEFORE,我从未到过这么高1210011590300120206ANDITSVERY,VERYSTRENUOUSTOCLIMBICELIKETHAT在冰面攀登非常费力1220012072300121018NOTONLYISITTECHNICALLYDIFFICULTANDUNSTABLEANDFRIGHTENING,技术上难度大,不稳定,很骇人1230012102000121214BUTYOURHEARTISGOINGLIKENOBODYSBUSINESS而且因为高度问题1240012121600121411BECAUSEOFTHEALTITUDE你的心也不受控制1250013050800130805ITHADNOWGOTVERYCOLDINDEED天气已经很冷1260013092400131218ANDWEWEREUP20,000,201/2THOUSANDFEET我们已经到了两万多英尺的山上1270013122000131511ITWASWINDY,ANDITSTARTEDSNOWING,ANDITMEANT风雪交加1280013151300131904THATTHEWHOLEFACEWASPOURINGWITHPOWDERSNOWAVALANCHES山坡上四处是小型雪崩1290013332900133622THESNOWWOULDACTUALLYSTICKONTHEOUTSIDEOFYOURCLOTHING雪沾在衣服外层1300013362400133903ITWOULDTHENFREEZEONTOPOFYOU然后在衣服上冻结1310013390500134120LIKEYOUWEREWEARINGASUITOFARMOR如一层盔甲将人裹住1320013501900135222THELASTSECTIONONTHEFACE山坡最后一部分1330013522400135623WASAFEWHUNDREDFEETOFTHEMOSTNIGHTMARISHCLIMBING攀登起来尤为艰难1340013580100140111COMPLETELYUNSTABLEPOWDERSNOW到处是松散的雪末1350014011300140321NOANCHORSATANYPOINT几乎没有地方可以固定1360014042300140828ITWASPHYSICALLYVERY,VERYTIRINGFULLBODYCLIMBING,REALLY全身都要用上,非常累人1370014182800142106ITTOOKUSTHEBESTPARTOFFIVEORSIXHOURS我们用了不下五六个小时1380014210800142301TOCLIMB200FEET才爬了200英尺1390014312300143504WECARRIEDONWAYAFTERITHADGOTDARK天黑之后我们又爬了很久1400014350600143709IWASGETTINGEXTREMELYCOLD,我感觉很冷1410014371200144103BECAUSEIWASJUSTSITTINGSTILLWHILESIMONWASTRYINGTOCLIMB西蒙攀登时,我一直在休息1420014420500144417YOUKNOW,IWASGETTINGNEARHYPOTHERMIC我几乎冻僵了1430014441900144718YOUJUSTKNEWTHATIFYOUJUSTCARRIEDONREGARDLESS,我们知道继续爬下去1440014472000145010ITWASGONNAGOTITSUP肯定会垮掉1450014501200145120SOWEDUGASNOWCAVE于是挖了雪洞1460015101400151220INTHEMORNING,INGOODWEATHER,第二天早晨晴空万里1470015122200151506WEACTUALLYSAWWHATWEDBEENTRYINGTOCLIMB我们看到自己爬过的路程1480015241800152910ITWASTHISANDEANNIGHTMAREOFFLUTINGSOFTHEFINESTPOWDER这是大雪之后1490015291200153204GAUGEDOUTBYSNOWFALLINGDOWN,雪末在安第斯形成的皱褶1500015320600153527MERINGUESANDMUSHROOMSANDCORNICESALLOVERTHEPLACE到处是千层糕及蘑菇状的雪檐1510015390900154211WEDHEARDABOUTTHESESTRANGEPOWDERSNOWCONDITIONS对于安第斯山的雪末我们有所耳闻1520015421400154527YOUGETINTHEANDES,ANDWEDNEVERSEENTHEMBEFORE但从未亲眼目睹1530015452900154902IDONTKNOWTHEPHYSICSTHATEXPLAINSWHYPOWDERSNOW我不明白1540015490400155111CANSTAYONSUCHSTEEPSLOPES为何雪末可以停留在陡峭山崖上1550015511300155508INTHEALPS,ITWOULDJUSTSLIDEOFFIFTHESLOPEWASABOVE40DEGREES在阿尔卑斯山,坡度超过40,雪就会滑下1560016002500160309ITISSOMEOFTHEMOSTPRECARIOUS,这是我攀登生涯中遇到的1570016031100160624UNNERVING,ANDDANGEROUSCLIMBINGIVEEVERDONE最疲惫,最凶险的状况1580016142500161806WEWEREACTUALLYSCAREDTHATWEWOULDGETTOANIMPASSE我们害怕1590016180800162000WHEREWECOULDNTCLIMBANYFURTHERUP,中途无法继续攀登1600016200200162304BECAUSEWEKNEWWEWOULDNTBEABLETOGETBACKDOWN因为我们自知1610016230600162419WHATWEDALREADYCLIMBED无法按原路返回1620016242100162701WEWERECLIMBINGOURSELVESINTOATRAP我们正在爬入一个陷阱1630016291700163228ANDNOTONLYTHAT,WECOULDSEETHIS41/2THOUSANDFOOTDROP不只如此,我们面前1640016330000163428THATWASWAITINGFORUS就是四万多英尺的悬崖1650016431800164701ANDSOITWASAGREATRELIEFTHAT,BY200INTHEAFTERNOON,欣慰的是,下午2点1660016470300165027WEGOTONTOTHENORTHRIDGEANDOFFTHEWESTFACE我们爬上了北山脊,离开了山南坡1670016502900165502ANDWEVOWEDTHATWEDIDNTWANTTOGONEARANDEANFLUTINGSAGAIN我们发誓,再也不靠近安第斯雪槽一步1680017041200170814WEWEREPRETTYTIRED,REALLY,BYTHETIMEWEGOTONTOTHERIDGE到达山脊时,我们已经疲惫不堪1690017092600171300IWASKNACKERED,ANDIREMEMBERTHINKING,我精疲力尽,心想1700017130200171500“SODTHESUMMITWEVEDONETHEFACE“该死的顶峰,我们已经爬了山坡“1710017150200171724ICANTREALLYBEBOTHEREDTOGOALLTHEWAYUPTHERE“不能继续爬了1720017172600172110ANDTHENWETHOUGHT,“WELL,HANGONNO转念一想“不行,要坚持“1730017211300172405WEHAVECOMEALLTHISWAYWEMIGHTASWELLSTANDONTHETOP“我们已经走了这么远,为什么不到顶峰呢1740017492300175023LOOK看1750017512600175311HEYWHAT嘿什么1760017531400175511LONGWAYDOWN,ISNTITYEAH很高吧没错1770018420800184316DOWNTHERE望望下面1780018431800184511IDONTPARTICULARLYLIKESUMMITS,我不喜欢顶峰1790018451300184922BECAUSE80OFACCIDENTSHAPPENONDESCENT八成事故都发生在下山时1800018541800185627WEDDECIDEDBEFOREWEEVENCLIMBEDTHEFACE登山之前,我们就决定1810018562900185916THATWEWEREGOINGTOCOMEDOWNTHENORTHRIDGEOFTHEMOUNTAIN,下山时要走北坡1820018591900190210DOWNTOACOLBETWEENTHEMOUNTAINSIULAGRANDE到达修拉格兰峰和耶鲁巴峰1830JIMISOFTUNREGISTEREDSOFTWAREONLYCONVERTPARTOFFILEREADHELPTOKNOWHOWTOREGISTERHTFORWARD,我们原以为山脊很平直1890019301700193200AQUITEEASYWAYTODESCEND便于降落1900019320300193417WEWEREHOPINGWEDBEABLETOSORTOFWALK,甚至期望能够步行下山1910019342000193704ANDITTURNEDOUTTOBEVERYDIFFICULT但事实并非如此1920019382800194021ITWASHORRENDOUS这条路无比凶险1930019402300194211VERTICALONTHEWESTSIDE,西侧几乎垂直1940019421300194410WITHCORNICESOVERHANGINGTHEWESTSIDE,到处悬挂着雪檐1950019441200194517AND,ONTHEEASTSIDE,东面1960019451900194906STEEPFLUTINGSRUNNINGDOWN3,000FEETBELOWUS陡峭的雪槽一直向下延伸到3000英尺1970019531500195616ITWASASHOCK,REALLYITWASQUITEDANGEROUS,ANDITALLGOTABIT让人震惊,危险无比1980019561800200001ITSEEMEDTOGETABITOUTOFCONTROLATTHATSTAGEOFTHINGS一切似乎都我们控制之外1990020100900201307ANDWITHINABOUTHALFANHOURTOANHOUR离开顶峰不到一个小时2000020130900201523OFLEAVINGTHESUMMIT,WEWERELOST我们迷路了2010020152600201806WEWEREINAWHITEOUTWECOULDNTSEEANYTHING我们陷入了雪盲,目不能视2020020282400203100THENWEGOTALITTLEBREAKINTHECLOUD,云层露出一个缝隙2030020310200203423ANDISAWTHERIDGE,SOISTARTEDCLIMBINGBACKUPTOIT我看到了山脊,向回爬去2040020452000204722IDIDNTKNOWBECAUSEOFTHESIDEOFTHERIDGEIWASON,我没有察觉到,由于方向不对2050020472400205002BUTITWASACTUALLYANENORMOUSCORNICE,我爬向的是一块雪檐2060020500400205219ANOVERHANGOFSNOWANDICE,是悬在半空中的雪和冰2070020522100205425ANDIWASWALKINGUPOVERTHETOPOFIT我正走在上面2080021162500211922IWASLEFTHANGING,LOOKINGDOWN,我悬挂在空中,向下望去2090021192400212301ASALLTHISSNOWANDICETHENFELLAWAYFROMME雪和冰齐齐向山下坠落2100021230300212523DOWNTHEWESTSIDEOFSIULAGRANDE落在修拉格兰峰的西侧2110021282100213122IGOTBACKUPONTHERIDGEANDISHOUTEDDOWNTOJOE我回到山脊,大声喊乔2120021312400213317THATIDFOUNDTHERIDGE告诉他我找到了山脊2130021331900213525ISAID,“IVEFOUNDTHERIDGE,JOE“我说“我找到了山脊,乔“2140021382400214117WEDHOPEDTOHAVEGOTDOWNTHATDAY,我们期望在当天下山2150021411900214322BUTBYTHETIMEITGOTDARK,但直到天黑2160021432400214624WEWERESTILLVERYHIGH,STILLAT20,000FEET我们还在2万英尺的高空2170021480500215215ANDTHATNIGHT,ASWEMADEABREW,THEGASRANOUT当晚我们煮水时,煤气耗尽2180022120300221325ITWASPRETTYOBVIOUSTHEFOLLOWINGMORNING很明显,次日上午2190022132700221621THATWEDDESCENDEDTHEWORSTPARTOFTHERIDGE,我们爬下了山脊最凶险的一部分2200022162300222025ANDIWASPRETTYCONFIDENTTHATWEDGETBACKDOWNTOTHEBASECAMPTHATDAY我很自信,当天可以返回营地2210022221600222421ITHOUGHTATTHATSTAGEITWASPRETTYMUCHINTHEBAG,当时我感觉已经大功告成2220022242400222613ISUPPOSE,THEWHOLECLIMB整个攀登已经成功2230022282900223018IWASAHEADOFSIMON我在西蒙前面2240022322100223611SUDDENLYTHEREWASTHISVERTICALWALLBISECTINGTHERIDGE突然一道垂直的悬崖将山脊分开2250022371300223920PERHAPSICOULDGETDOWNONMYHANDSANDKNEES,我打算手脚并用2260022392200224202HAMMERBOTHMYAXESINTOTHEICEATTHETOP,将斧头钉在冰上2270022420400224427ANDTHENLOWERMYSELFOFFTHEICECLIFF然后慢慢降落2280022491000225219WHENYOUHAMMERTHEAXEIN,YOULISTENTOTHESOUNDITMAKES,钉入斧头时,要听声音2290022522200225409ANDYOULOOKATIT然后再观察2300022561600225801IWASHANGINGBYBOTHAXES我悬挂在两把斧头上2310022580400230016ITOOKTHEHAMMEROUT,ANDWHATIWANTEDTODO我拿出锤子2320023001800230211ISNOWPLACEITINTHEVERTICALWALL想把斧头固定在墙面2330023021300230412ANDISWUNG,ANDTHEPICKWENTIN,我挥动斧头,冰刀进入2340023041400230527ANDITJUSTMADE但是2350023062700230812JUSTASTRANGESOUND声音不对劲2360023102800231229ANDITHOUGHT,“WELL,ILLTAKEITOUT,我心想“我拔出来“2370023130100231406MAKEAGOODPLACEMENT“将它固定好“2380023140800231801CAUSEIJUSTWANTEDTOPUTDEADSOLIDAXEPLACEMENTSIN我想一路都用斧头2390023180300231917ALLTHEWAYDOWN进行安全的定位2400023201900232319ANDIWASABOUTTOSWINGATTHEICEAGAIN我再次挥向冰面时2410023382200234016OH,FUCK靠2420023401800234118GOD天啊2430023412000234513THISPAINJUSTCAMEFLOODINGDOWNMYTHIGH,疼痛如潮水一般涌向大腿2440023451500234816ANDMYKNEEWASVERY,VERY,VERYPAINFUL我的膝盖刺骨疼痛2450023500900235216OH,FUCK,FUCK,FUCK操操操2460023532400235718THEIMPACTDROVEMYLOWERLEG撞击使我的小腿2470023572000235927STRAIGHTTHROUGHMYKNEEJOINT冲过膝盖2480024012300240501ASTHEBONEWENTINTOMYFEMUR,骨头穿过腿节2490024050300240901ITSPLITTHETIBIALPLATEAUSTRAIGHTOFF将大腿肌肉分开2500024090300241019ANDCARRIEDONUP向上刺去2510024131600241416FUCK操2520024182800242222IWASQUITEWILDWITHPAINICOULDNTCOPEWITHITATFIRST我疼痛不堪,起初无法忍受2530024270800242908IJUSTBREATHEDALOT,ANDITSTARTEDTOGO,我拼命深呼吸,疼痛开始缓解2540024291000243116ANDICANREMEMBERLOOKINGACROSSTOTHEWEST我记得自己望向西面2550024311900243421ANDSEEINGTHATWEWERELEVELWITHTHESUMMITOFRASAC,发现我们与罗萨克峰齐平2560024342400243707SOIHADAHEIGHTGAUGEOFWHEREWEWERE这样我才知道我们的高度2570024370900244022ANDIJUSTTHOUGHT,“FUCK,ICANTHAVEBROKENMYLEG我想“操,腿千万不要断“2580024402400244300IFIBROKEMYLEG,IMDEAD“腿断的话我就死定了“2590025031700250507ANDTHENTHEROPEWENTSLACK这时绳子开始变松2600025061800250905IKNEWTHATMEANTTHATSIMONWASCOMINGTOWARDSME我知道西蒙正向我爬来2610025241300252703ICOULDNTFEELANYBONEENDORANYTHING我摸不到断骨2620025270500252923IBROUGHTMYHANDUP,ANDTHEREWASNOBLOODONIT我拿起手,没有发现血迹2630025292500253127THEPAINHADGONEDOWNALITTLEBIT,疼痛感也在减轻2640025312900253504ANDITHOUGHTMAYBEIWASBEINGABITWET,我想可能只是轻伤2650025350600253818ANDTHATIDJUSTTORNALIGAMENTORSOMETHING八成拉伤了韧带什么的2660025421400254422ITRIEDTOSTANDONIT我尝试站起来2670025470900255022ANDIFELTALLTHEBONEGO,ALLGRATINGANDEVERYTHING,感觉骨头在错位,并听到骨头的响声2680025502400255220ANDIKNEWITWASBROKENTHEN才肯定是骨折2690026022600260523THELOOKTHATHEGAVETOMESTICKSINMYMIND,我忘不了他的眼神2700026052500260920THISLOOKOFSHOCKANDDESPERATIONANDSORTOFTERROR,REALLY那种震惊,绝望和恐惧2710026092200261218LOTSOFTHINGSINTHISSINGLELOOK一个眼神包含了无数想法2720026142800261616ANDHESAID,“AREYOUOKAY“他问“你没事吧“2730026161900262016ITHINKITDIDOCCURTOMETOSAY,“YEAH,IMFINE“我想说“我没事“2740026201800262201THATWASSORTOFSTUPID但这种话很蠢2750026220300262517ITHINKISAID,“NO,IVEBROKENMYLEG“我说“有事,我腿断了“2760026272600263019LMMEDIATELY,IMEAN,JUSTDOOM,REALLY我马上想到,完了2770026302100263411ITHOUGHT,“OH,GOD,WERESTUFFED“我想“老天,我们死定了“2780026341300263808WEREGOINGTOBEDOINGWELLIFEITHEROFUSGETOUTOFTHISNOW有一个能逃生,已经是万幸2790026420500264528ITDIDCOMEINTOMYMIND,“IFHESLIPSOFFTHEMOUNTAINNOW,我确实想过“如果他跌落山崖“2800026460100264829“THENICANJUSTCLEAROFFANDLEAVEHIM我就可以安然脱身2810026490100265207“ANDGETMYSELFDOWN,ANDIWONTHAVETOHAVE自己下山,省了麻烦2820026520900265520“ALLTHEHASSLEOFTRYINGTODEALWITHHIM不需要考虑如何救他2830026552200265716ANDWITHTHESITUATIONWEREIN“以及如何应付当前情形2840027012500270427HEGAVEMETHESEPAINKILLERSWHICHWEREEFFECTIVELYHEADACHETABLETS,他给了我一些治头痛的止痛JIMISOFTUNREGISTEREDSOFTWAREONLYCONVERTPARTOFFILEREADHELPTOKNOWHOWTOREGISTER0200272605ANDIDHAVEGONE,“RIGHTYEAH“我会说“好的“2910027271800272909CAUSEIKNEWTHEREWASNTANYHELP“我明白不会有人来救援“2920027291100273305ITWOULDHAVEBEENANEASYWAYFORHIMTOSAYIT只是这样说他更容易开口2930027330700273615IMEAN,IDIDNTTHINKWEREALLY,SERIOUSLYTHOUGHT说实话,我想不到29400273617002