制动器外文翻译

欢迎下载本文档参考使用，如果有疑问或者需要CAD图纸的请联系q1484406321Brake System Service and MaintenanceThe types of trouble that may develop in drum-type hydraulic braking systems include the following.(1) Brake pedal goes to floorboard. When this happens, it means that there is no pedal reserve, since full pedal movement does not provide adequate braking. This would be a very unlikely situation with a dual-brake system. One section might fail (front or rear) but it would be rare for both to fail at the same time. If this happens, chances are the driver has been driving for some time with one section out .(2) One brake drags. This means that the brake shoes are not moving away from the brake drum when the brakes are released.(3) All brake drag. When all brakes drag, it may be that the brake pedal does not have sufficient play, so that the piston in the master cylinder does not fully retract.(4) Car pulls to one side. If the car pulls to one side when the brakes are applied, this means that more braking pressure is being applied to one side than to the other. (5) Soft, or spongy, pedal. If the pedal action is soft, or spongy, the chances are that there is air in the system, although out-of adjustment brake shoes could cause this.(6) Poor braking action requiring excessive pedal pressure. If the brake lining is soaked with oil or brake fluid, they will not hold well, and excessive pedal pressure is required for braking action. Improper brake-shoe adjustment or the use of the wrong brake lining could cause the same trouble.(7) Brakes too sensitive or grab. When the brakes are too sensitive and brake hard or grab with slight brake pedal pressure, it may be that the linings have become greasy , that the brake shoes are out of adjustment , that the wrong lining is being used and that drums are scored or rough .(8) Noisy brakes. Brakes will become noisy if the brake linings wear so much that rivets come into contact with the brake drum, if the shoes become warped so that pressure on the drum is not uniform ,if shoe rivets become loose so that they contact the drum , or if the drum becomes rough or worn .（9）Air in system. If air gets into the hydraulic system, poor braking and a spongy pedal will result. It is possible accidentally to plug the vent (by wrench action ) when the filler plug is removed .(10) Loss of brake fluid. Brake fluid can be lost if the master cylinder leaks, if the wheel cylinder leaks, if the wheel cylinder leaks, if the line connections are loose, or if the line is damaged. (11) Warning light comes on when braking (dual system). This is a signal that one of the two braking systems has failed. Both systems (rear and front) should be checked so that the trouble can be found and eliminated. It is dangerous to drive with this condition, even though braking can be achieved, because only half the wheels are being broken.Many of the troubles on the disk in the disk type of brake system are similar to those that may be found in the drum type.Whenever you encounter a complaint of faulty braking action, always try to analyze it and determine its cause. Sometimes, all that is necessary (in earlier drum-type brakes) is a minor brake with the self-adjuster; the brakes automatically adjust themselves to compensate for lining wear. Other brake services include addition of brake fluid, bleeding the hydraulic system to remove air, repair or replacement of master cylinder and wheel cylinders, replacement of master cylinder and wheel cylinders, replacement of brake linings, and refinishing of brake drums.Tire service and maintenance includes periodic inflation to make sure that the tire is kept at the proper pressure, periodic tire inspection so that small damages can be detected and repaired before they develop into major defects, and tire removal, repair, and replacement.Incorrect tire inflation can cause many types of steering and braking difficulty. Low pressure will cause hard steering, front wheel shimmy, steering kickback, and tire squeal on turns. Uneven tire pressure will tend to make the car pull to one side. For these reason, it is very important to maintain proper pressure in the tires. There are a few points you should remember when inflating tires:(1) Dont inflate a tire when it is hot, as, for instance, after hard driving on the highway.(2) Always replace the cap (where used) after checking air pressure or inflating a tire.The removal and replacement of tires are not difficult on smaller vehicles, but on large, heavy-duty applications special tools are required to remove and handle them. Air must be released from the center of the rim. A tire tool or flat stock can be used to pry one part of the bead up over the rim flange (start near the valve stem). Care must be exercised to avoid damaging the tire bead or inner tube. After the bead is started over the rim flange with the tool, the remainder of the bead can be worked out over the flange with the hands. The other bead of the tire is removed from over the same side of the rim flange in a similar manner.In tire shops where special tire-changing machines are used. In these, the wheel is put into place and air pressure is used to force the tire bead away from the rim. This machine will remove a tire from a wheel rim in a few seconds. Further, it can be used to quickly install a tire on the rim.The following cautions should be carefully observed in tire service and maintenance work: (1) On tubeless tires, do not use tire irons to force the beads away from the rim flanges; this could damage the rim seals on the beads and cause an air leak. Instead, use a bead breaker tool. (2) If a tire has been deflated, never inflate it while the car weight is on the tire. Always jack up the car before inflating the tire so that the tube can distribute itself around the tire evenly. If this is not done, some parts of the tube will be stretched more than other parts, and this puts a strain on the tube that might cause it to blow out.A number of repairs can be made on tires and tubes, ranging from the patching of nail holes, punctures, or cuts to vulcanizing new tread material to the tire casing. This latter operation is known as recapping, since a new cap, or tread, is placed on the tire. Repair procedures vary according to whether the tire is or is not of the tubeless type.With the tube type, puncture repair requires removal of the tire so that the puncture in the tube can be attached. This is done with a special kit. Patches require curing, or vulcanizing, at a temperature of around 150.Tubeless-tire punctures can usually be repaired without taking the tire off the rim. One method uses a rubber plug, which is inserted, into the puncture hole along with special cement. After the cement dries and the plug is trimmed flush with the tread, the repair is complete.Applying a patch on the inside can repair larger holes and cuts in tires. In addition, when treads have worn down, new treads can be vulcanized onto the casing provided the casing is in good condition.Tires have two functions. First, they interpose a cushion between the road and the car wheels to absorb shocks resulting from irregularities in the road. The tires flex, or give, as bumps are encountered, thus reducing the shock effect to the passengers in the car. Second, the tires provide frictional contact between the wheels and the road so that good traction is secured. This permits the transmitting of power through the tires to the road for rapid accelerating, combats the tendency of the car to skid on turns, and allows quick stops when the brakes are applied.Tires are of two basic types, solid and pneumatic (air filled). Solid tires have very limited usage, being confined largely to specialized industrial applications. Pneumatic tires are of two types, those using an inner tube and the tubeless type. The amount of air pressure used depends on the type of tire and operation. Passenger-car tires are inflated to about 275 to 413 KPa. Air is introduced into the tire (or inner tube) through a valve that opens when the chuck on the air hoses if applied. On the tire with an inner tube, the valve is mounted on the tube. On the tubeless tire, the valve is mounted on the wheel rim. 制动系的保养和维修鼓式液压制动系统所发生的故障有以下几种类型:(1)制动踏板移至汽车底板:发生这种情况时,由于整个踏板位移,不能提供满意的制动,意味着没有踏板行程余量。这对于装有双管路的制动系统来说,是极不可能发生的事，(前部或后部的)一套管路可能损坏，但两套管路同时损坏是极少见的。如果发生这种情况，驾驶员很可能在一套管路失灵的情况下已经行驶了一段时间。(2)一边制动器咬死:这意味着解除制动时，制动蹄片不能从制动鼓上分开。 (3)全部制动器咬死:如果所有的制动器都咬死，可能是由于踏板未能充分地起作用，致使制动总泵中的活塞不能完全返回。(4)汽车跑偏:如果制动时发生汽车跑偏,即意味着提供的制动力一边比另一边要大。(5)制动踏板发软:如果踩踏板时，感觉发软或像踏在海绵上，可能是系统中进了空气。不过，调整不当的制动蹄片也会发生这种现象。(6)制动作用不佳，需加大踏板压力:如果制动衬片被油或制动液浸渍。调整不当的制动衬片或是使用的制动衬片有毛病均会引起同样的问题。(7)制动器反应过于灵敏或猛烈:制动器过于灵敏，或轻轻踏下制动踏板，即猛然刹车，可能是衬片被油浸渍、制动片脱出、使用的是有毛病的衬片、以及制动鼓工作面擦伤或凹凸不平所至。(8)制动噪音:制动器衬片磨损严重，致使铆钉直接与制动鼓接触；制动蹄翘曲，使其直接触及制动鼓上的压力不均；制动蹄上的铆钉松动，使其直接触及制动鼓；制动鼓凹凸不平或磨损；这些情况都会使制动器产生噪音。(9)空气进入系统:如果空气进入液压系统，就会产生制动不良和踩下踏板不能产生制动力。也可能是拆卸加注口螺栓时，(用扳手不当)偶然堵住排气口所至。(10)制动液流失:如果制动总泵渗漏，连接管松动或破损，均会使制动液流失。(11)制动时(双管路系统)警示灯亮:这是两路制动系统之一发生故障的信号，检查(前后)两个系统以便发现并排除故障。带着这类故障行车是非常危险的，即使还可实现制动，也仅仅是因为半数车轮还能够实现制动。在盘式制动系统中制动盘与鼓式制动系统所发生的大部分故障相类似。无论何时制动出故障，总要尽力去分析并确定其原因。有时，所要做的仅仅是对制动器稍做调整，以减少衬片磨损。目前带有自动调校装置的制动器，可自动调整以减少衬片的磨损。制动器的其它维修工作还包括:添加制动液，排出液压系统的空气，修理或更换制动总泵和分泵，更换制动衬片和整修制动鼓工作表面。轮胎的维修包括定期充气，保证轮胎气压正常；定期检查轮胎可以及时发现和修理较小的损坏，以免发展为大故障。维修还包括拆卸、修理和更换轮胎。不适当的轮胎充气会引起多种类型的转向和制动障碍。压力低会使转向沉重，前轮摆振，转向回跳以及转动时轮胎发出噪音；各轮胎压力不均匀将增加汽车跑偏的倾向。由于这些原因，保持轮胎的正常气压是非常重要的。在给轮胎充气时，应注意以下几点:（1）轮胎在