古代服饰发展史英文版.ppt

,Qin,BuriedSculptureLegion(兵马俑)MilitaryClothing(军戎),1.General:doublelongjacket(双重长襦)；Colorfulscales(彩色鳞甲)；Pants；necksquare-mouthpointedshoes(方口齐头翘尖履);PurpleHecrown(深紫色鶡冠),2.Intermediateofficer(中级军官)：longjacketChestarmourwithcolorfullace(彩色花边的前胸甲)Wraphipontheleg(腿部裹护腿)necksquare-mouthpointedshoesDoubleversionlongcrown,3.Thelowerthecollector(下级军吏)：LongjacketArmourLongcrownTievinesonleg(腿扎行滕)Shallowshoes(浅履),Han,Mensclothing:Gown(袍服)Supersleeve(大袖)Cuff(袖口)partisshrink，smallandtight(祛)Widepartofthesleeve(袂),Bigobliquecollar(大襟斜领)thelowerhemofthegown,withlaceworkormakeitcrescentshape(袍服下摆饰花边或剪成月牙状),禅（通“单”）衣:Single-layerlongdress,衫：1.Wearoutside,withnosleeves2.Wearinthegarmentorwearclose-fitting,withshoutsleeves,袴(穷袴):Haveaforkofthepants,Womensclothing:襦(jacket):Helicalcollar(斜领)，fullsleeve(宽袖)，,深衣：Foldincreaseinthenumberoflayers(衣襟绕转的层数增多)HempartincreasedFloorlength(曳地)Lapisatrumpet-shaped(下摆呈喇叭状),裙(skirt):FloorlengthLapisatrumpet-shapedSkirt-waisttothechest(群腰高至胸),akindofChinese-stylejacketwithbuttonsdownthefront.(对襟)Girdlingtunic.(束腰)widesleeves.(衣袖宽大),jacketwithbuttonsdownthefront,costumeformen,civilofficer,militaryofficer,commonpeople,costumeinteleplay,ThebriefintroductionofcostumesinTangDynasty,outstandingnaturalgraceful,bold,magnificentandelegantdress-upaccessoriestheimpactoftheNorthernminoritiesXianbeiandtheWesternRegions.,SplendidStageCostumes,CostumesinTangDynasty,簪花仕女图BeautiesWearingFlowers,byZhouFang,8thcentury,thestrongnationalcustomsandextremepioneeringconsciousnessboldandopenthespiritofthetimesofideologicalconceptagreatenthusiasmchangesandinnovationretrofitinthehairandmakeupandforinstance,uniqueandnaturalexhibitedtheexquisitenessandpoiseofthepeoplestylish,refinedandbeautifulfabulous.gavewaytoanewlyremarkableandromantictypeoffashioninclothesandornaments,ThefeaturesofTangDynasty,Tangwomensdressescanbeclassfiedintothreecategories:,1)ThetraditionalruqunordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina,2）thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad,3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities.,CostumeoftheSongDynasty(960-1279),WomenintheSongperiodworelongdress,blousethatcamedowntotheknee,skirtandjacketwithlongorshortsleeves,whilewomenfromwealthyfamiliescouldwearpurplescarvesaroundtheirshoulders.,nobleclass,upper-classwomen,commoner,CostumeoftheYuanDynasty,meninthattimelikedtogrowplaitedhairandwearearring.,Slave,Officer,Emperor,Civilian,Queen、Princess,Emperor,Empress,Wedding,御史与谏官均为獬豸,Qing,(intheQingDynasty)officialcapshowingvariousranksbybuttonofpreciousstoneontop(清代区别官员等级的帽饰),DuringtheQingDynasty,clotheswereelegantandpoised.Peopleatthattimeworeclothesbefittingtheirsocialstatus,officialranksandlifestyleaccordingtotheregulationsoftheQinggovernment.AsManchuistheminorityinpowerofQingdynasty,theQingclothingshowsastrongnomadiccharacteristics.,shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外),theright-sidelapelofjunctiondecoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰),clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣),increasewaistcoatorjacket(增加坎肩或马褂),clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身),Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形),Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手),setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰),flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋),Emperor,清代皇帝的服饰基本上分为三大类，即礼服(朝服、朝冠、端罩、衮服、补服)、吉服(服冠、龙袍、龙褂)和常服，是在典制规定以外的平常之服。,清朝改历代的朝冠为礼帽，礼帽又称为“顶子”或称为“顶戴”、“顶戴花翎”。礼帽分为两种，一种为夏天戴的凉帽，另一种为冬天所戴的暖帽。顶珠的质料和颜色的不同，代表了官员的品级的不同，清政府规定一品为红宝石，二品为珊瑚，三品为蓝宝石，四品用青金石，六品用砗磲，七品为素金，八品用阴纹缕花金，九品为阳纹镂花金，无顶珠者无官品。,theRepublicofChina(民国时期）,maintraits:,morediversityandmoreopen,abigdifferencebetweenrichandpoor,urbanandrural,women:western-stylelongdress,Cheongsamn旗袍，moreconservativemen:western-stlylesuit,Chinesetunicsuit中山装长袍马褂,Cheongsamn.旗袍,EasytosliponandcomfortabletowearItsneckishigh,collarclosed,anditssleevesmaybeeithershort,mediumorfulllengthisnottoocomplicatedtomakecasualorformaloccasions,Chinesetunicsuit中山装,Designer,traits:fourpocketsandaturned-downcollar,closedalldownthemiddlewithfivebuttons,mixturestyle,westernsuitandchines