中国传统服饰_英文PPT.ppt

,ChineseTraditionalClothing,Speaker:Cynthia,Rinei,Daisy,Jenny,ChineseCostumes,TheChinesecostume,whichhasover5,000yearshistory,isjustlikealongriver.Andtodaywellpresenttheminthreeparts,HanDynasty,TangDynastyandQingDynasty.,Part1HanFuPart2CostumeinTangDynastyPart3Cheongsam,HanFu,HanfuisalsoknownasHanzhuangorHuafu，isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,thenmanycametotheCourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan.（后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度）,Standardstyle,history,Specificstyle,body,History,Hanfuhasahistoryofmorethanthreemillennia,andissaidtohavebeenwornbythelegendaryYellowEmperor.Fromthebeginningofitshistory,Hanfu(especiallyinelitecircles)wasinseparablefromsilk,supposedlydiscoveredbytheYellowEmperorsconsort,Leizu.,TheShangDynastydevelopedtherudimentsofHanfu;itconsistedofayi,andchang,wornwithabixi,.Vividprimarycolorsandgreenwereused,duetothedegreeoftechnologyatthetime.,theWesternZhouDynasty，theHanfubecamelooser,withtheintroductionofwidesleevesandjadedecorationshungfromthesashwhichservedtokeeptheyiclosed.Theyiwasessentiallywrappedover,inastyleknownasjiaolingyouren,orwrappingtherightsideoverbeforetheleft,IntheEasternZhouDynasty，the“deeprobe”(shenyi深衣)appearedacombinationoftunic（束腰外衣）andskirt.Theupperandlowerhalveswerecutseparatelybutsewnasasingleunit.Anadditionalchangewastheshapingoftheleftsideofthecostumeintoacorner,fastenedonthechest.,SinceSongandYuan,officialrecordusedHanfutoindicategarmentsHanswearDuringLiaodynasty,theemperorofLiaoandHanofficialswearHanfu,andEmpressandKhitan（契丹）officialsweartheirnationalclothing.DuringYuandynasty,wheneditingHistoryofLiao,theofficialsespeciallymadeanentryforHanfu,ThetermHanfutodescribetheclothingsystemofHans,wasnotoftenusedwithinHans,butwasmoreoftenusedinotherethnicgroupsandnations,todistinguishtheHansclothingsystemandtheirownclothingsystem,Standardstyle,HatandheaddressInformaldressSemi-formalFormaldressCourtdress,Hatandheadwear-garment,ThestyleofHanChineseclothingcanbesummarizedascontaininggarmentelementsthatarearrangedindistinctiveandsometimesspecificways.ThismaybedifferentfromthetraditionalgarmentofotherethnicgroupsinChina,mostnotablytheManchu-influencedChineseclothes,theqipao,whichispopularlyassumedtobethesolelyrecognizablestyleoftraditionalChinesegarb.Acomparisonofthetwostylescanbeseenasthefollowingprovides,Yi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexesPao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymeninHanfuRu(襦):Opencross-collarshirtShan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyiQun(裙)orchang(裳):SkirtforwomenandmenKu(褲):Trousersorpants,Ontopofthegarments,hats(formen)orhairpieces(forwomen)maybeworn.,Onecanoftentelltheprofessionorsocialrankofsomeonebywhattheywearontheirheads.Thetypicaltypesofmaleheadweararecalledjin(巾)forsoftcaps,mao(帽)forastiffhatsandguan(冠)forformalheaddress.Officialsandacademicshaveaseparatesetofhatsforthem,typicallytheputou(幞頭),thewushamao(烏紗帽),thesi-fangpingdingjin(四方平定巾;orsimply,fangjin:方巾)andtheZhuangzijin(莊子巾).Atypicalhairpieceforwomenisaji(笄)buttherearemoreelaboratehairpieces.,Informaldress,Typesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders,withterminologieschangorqun),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes(shenyi).,AtypicalsetofHanfucanconsistoftwoorthreelayersThefirstlayerofclothingismostlythezhongyi(中衣)whichistypicallytheinnergarmentmuchlikeaWesternT-shirtandpants.Thenextlayeristhemainlayerofclothingwhichismostlyclosedatthefront.Therecanbeanoptionalthirdlayerwhichisoftenanovercoatcalledazhaoshanwhichisopenatthefront.,Semi-formaldress,ApieceofHanfucanbemadesemi-formalbytheadditionofthefollowingappropriateitems:chang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbeltzhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoatguan(冠)oranyformalhats,Formaldress,Xuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe;equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfullbodygarment(曲裾):diagonalbodywrapping(直裾):straightlapelsYuanlingshan(圓領衫),lanshan(襴衫)orpanlingpao(盤領袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialoracademicaldress,Courtdress,Courtdressisthedresswornatveryformaloccasionsandceremoniesthatareinthepresenceofamonarch(suchasanenthronementceremony).Theentireensembleofclothingcanconsistofmanycomplexlayersandlookveryelaborate.Courtdressissimilartothexuanduanincomponentsbuthaveadditionaladornmentsandelaborateheadwear.Theyareoftenbrightlycoloredwithvermillionandblue.Therearevariousversionsofcourtdressthatarewornforcertainoccasions.,SpecificStyle,Historically,HanClothinghasinfluencedmanyofitsneighbouringculturalcostumes,suchasJapanesekimono,yukata,KoreanHanbokandtheVietnameseotthn.ElementsofHanfuhavealsobeeninfluencedbyneighbouringculturalcostumes,especiallybythenomadicpeoplestothenorth,andCentralAsianculturestothewestbywayoftheSilkRoad.,CostumeinTangDynasty,1、ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangdynasty2、ThefeaturesofcostumeinTangdynasty3、HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?,BriefIntroduction,Theclothingmaterialswereexquisite（精美的）Thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegantAdornmentsweresplendidComplimentedbyelaboratehairstyle,ornamentsandfacemakeup,ThegeneralfeaturesofwomenscostumeinTangdynasty：1)topless（上空装，袒胸装）2）exposedarm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）largesleeves5）longskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.,Thisisthefamouspicture簪花侍女图showingaladystrollinginthecourtTheladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thiswascalled“topless”（上空装，袒胸装）Mindedness:theopen-mindedstate“绮罗纤缕见肌肤”“蝉翼罗衣白玉人”,TheopenclothingstyleanditssoftnessandlightnessmakethewomenscostumeinTangdynastysouniqueanddistinctive.,TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueimageinitself.,Ingeneral,theTangwomensdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:,（1）ThetraditionalruqunordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina,2019/12/1,31,可编辑,Pattern襦裙(Ruqun),Ruqun（襦裙）iswornbywomen.,Whenitscollarlikestheletter“y”,wecancalledit“交领襦裙”.Ifitscollarlikesthenumber“11”,wecancalledit“对襟襦裙”.,Whentheyareclassifiedbyitsheightoftheskirt，wecancalledthem“齐腰襦裙”Whichwaistbandisonthewaist.Or“齐胸襦裙”Whichwaistbandisabovethechest.,（2）thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad;,（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys)，thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities拘谨,礼节.,AfterthereignofTangEmperorGaozong,purplewasusedasthegarmentcolorforofficialsabovethethirdgrade;lightred,officialsabovethefifthgrade;darkgreen.,officialsabovethesixthgrade;lightgreen,officialsabovetheseventhgrade;darkcyan,officialsabovetheeighthgrade;lightcyan,officialsabovetheninthgrade;andyellow,ordinarypeopleandthosewhodidnotliveinthepalace.,HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?,First,inChinesehistory,theTangDynasty(AD618-907)wasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.,Second,Basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevariety,qualityandquantityoftextilematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.,Thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.,Asanimportantculturalelement,womanscostumeinvariousformsintheTangDynastywellillustratestheopen-mindednessandaffluenceduringthatperiod.,Third,TheTanggovernmentwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD)andtheSuiDynasty(581-618),theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.,Willyouacceptyourgirlfriends/yourselvesdressingveryopen?,Cheongsam,OriginDevelopment,Originname,ThenamecheongsammeaningsimplylongdressenteredtheEnglishvocabularyfromthedialectofChinasGuangdongProvince.,InotherpartsofthecountryincludingBeijing,however,itisknownasqipao,whichhasahistorybehindit.,QingDynasty(1644),Manchu,BannerPeople(qiren).1645Shunzhi,“TifaYifu”Policy(剃发易服)thenext300years,becameadoptedbytheChinese.Survivedthepoliticalturmoilofthe1911XinhaiRevolutiontoppledtheQingDynasty.,Thehistoryofcheongsam,Thedetailsofcheongsam,shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外),theright-sidelapellpelofjunctiondkndecoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰),clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣),increasewaistcoatwesktorjacket(增加坎肩或马褂),clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身),Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形),Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手),setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰),flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋),Frog盘扣,Openings衩,Embroiderymbrdr刺绣,Frontofagarment襟,Development,From1914to1949,19301940，Peakperiod,western-stylecuttingmethodstandardclothingof