充满惊喜的奢华品牌.doc

充满惊喜的奢华品牌The Surprise Luxury Label At The Row, a seemingly simple short-sleeve jersey T-shirt costs $280, a wool blazer with three-quarter-length sleeves a little over $1,300 and a top-handle satchel nearly $3,000. 在时尚品牌The Row，看起来简简单单的一件短袖运动T恤售价为280美元（约合人民币1,750元），一件七分袖的羊毛衫要价略高于1,300美元（约合人民币8,100元），而一个手提包则要将近3,000美元（约合人民币18,700元）。 The prices rival those of Bottega Veneta and Lanvin, houses much more established than The Row, which former child stars Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen founded in 2006. 这一价位可以与老牌奢侈品Bottega Veneta 和Lanvin相比肩。The Row由前童星阿什莉奥尔森(Ashley Olsen)和玛丽-凯特奥尔森(Mary-Kate Olsen)于2006年创立。 The Olsens, now 27 years old, are well aware some fashion followers perceive The Row as audaciously priced. Some of that stems from what could be called Backpack-Gate. 奥尔森姐妹现年27岁，她们清楚地知道一些时尚潮人认为The Row的标价过高。这部分起因于“背包门”事件。 A $39,000 alligator backpack that The Row began selling in 2011 raised eyebrows and elicited eye rolls, even as it reportedly sold out. 2011年The Row开始出售一款39,000美元（约合人民币243,700元）的鳄鱼皮双肩包，这引起了许多人侧目，即使是在报道称这一背包被销售一空的时候。 That was obviously a very special bag to us but that didnt represent the entire range, said Mary-Kate Olsen in an interview earlier this month at the labels showroom in downtown Manhattan. 玛丽-凯特奥尔森本月早些时候在曼哈顿The Row展厅接受采访时说道：“很明显这是一款对我们来说很特别的背包，但这不能说明其价位的全部。” Ms. Olsen raised the issue early in the interview to make the point that The Row also sells bags in the $1,000 to $3,000 range. So weve now spent a couple of years also retraining the customer that thats not the only product thats available. 她在采访刚开始时就提及了这一话题，并说明The Row也出售价格在1,000至3,000美元（约合人民币6,200至19,000元）之间的皮包。她表示，“现在我们也花了好几年时间重新告诉客户，那个包并不是我们卖的唯一产品。” Retailers were initially skeptical of the line, fearing it was just another celebrity vanity project, and overpriced to boot. At the time, the Olsens were still best known for their years on TVs Full House. 零售商最初对此时装品牌持怀疑态度，担心它只是另一个名人“花瓶”品牌，以过高的价格博人眼球。当时奥尔森姐妹依然因在电视剧合家欢(Full House)的演出而被人所熟知。 Now, eight years later, high-end retailers call the line a success. 如今，八年过去了，高端零售商都称这一品牌取得了成功。 The Row opened its first store Tuesday in Los Angeles. The label was recently nominated for Accessories Designer of the Year from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The Row is up against Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler for the award, which will be given out in a ceremony early next month. The Row的首家门店于5月13日在洛杉矶开业。该品牌最近被美国时装设计师委员会(Council of Fashion Designers of America)提名为“年度配饰设计师”(Accessories Designer of the Year)大奖的候选品牌。一同被提名该奖项的还有Alexander Wang及Proenza Schouler。该奖项将在下月初的颁奖礼上揭晓。 Older women are The Rows target consumers, an unusual choice for 20-something designers. The Rows customer, Ashley Olsen said, is probably 40s, 50s, it really could be any age. Shes - the women that I know are - sophisticated, very educated within the world of fashion and appreciates finer fabrics and craftsmanship. That age group is also more likely to be able to afford The Row than a woman in her 20s. 上了年纪的女士也是The Row的目标客户这对20来岁的设计师来说是个非同寻常的选择。阿什莉奥尔森说，The Row的客户“可能在四、五十岁，或者任何年纪。”她所知道的客户都精于世故，对时尚界非常在行，欣赏更好的料质和工艺。这一年龄群也比20来岁的女人更有能力买得起The Row的产品。 So rather than showing clothes on girlish-looking models, The Row cast runway models from decades past for its recent pre-fall 2014 collection lookbook (a booklet sent to fashion editors). And while many designers are accompanied at the CFDA awards by the latest young starlet or model, in 2012 The Rows guest was model and actress Lauren Hutton, now 70. (The label won the Womenswear Designer of the Year award that year, surprising people who thought Proenza Schouler was as a shoo-in.) 所以，比起让少女面庞的模特来展示服装，The Row启用了年纪较大的T台模特来拍摄其最近的2014早秋服装图册（寄给时尚编辑的小册子）。尽管很多设计师参加美国时装设计师委员会颁奖礼时总会让新秀或者最新走红的模特相伴，但2012年The Row的客人却是模特兼演员劳伦赫顿(Lauren Hutton)，她现年已经70岁了。（当年该品牌赢得了年度女装设计师大奖，出乎大家意料之外，因人们原本以为Proenza Schouler稳操胜券。） The Row plans, for the first time, to start selling shoes from one of its runway collections. The shoes are a far cry from the feminine-looking heels and flats that women have proved willing to splurge on. Ashley Olsen said the menswear-inspired derby, mule and loafer styles will appeal to a very specific customer. I dont think its for everyone. The Row首次计划开始出售其T台系列的鞋子。这些鞋绝不是女性化的高跟鞋或者平底鞋，而是已经证实女士愿意花高价来购买的系列。阿什莉奥尔森称，由男鞋启发制作的低跟、混合型鞋和乐福鞋将会对某类特别的客户产生吸引力。她不认为这些鞋适合所有人。 The Row collaborated with Enzo Bonafe, a maker of handmade mens shoes, based in Bologna, Italy. The label is only selling the handmade shoes, which start at $850, in its own store initially. It plans to begin producing footwear in house by next year. The Row此前与总部位于意大利博洛尼亚(Bologna)的手工男鞋生产商 Enzo Bonafe合作。该品牌只出售手工制作的鞋子，售价从850美元（约合人民币5,300元）起，最初只在其门店销售。该品牌计划明年前开始自主生产鞋类产品。 Industrywide sales of womens handbags and shoes continue to outperform apparel. Spending on luxury items - including apparel, leather goods, watches, jewelry and cosmetics - is starting to slow, in part due to very wealthy consumers nearing the limits of what they are willing to spend. Sales of such items rose 7% last year, down from the 11% annual rate in 2010 through 2012, according to Boston Consulting Group, a global management consulting firm. 从整个行业来看，女士皮包和鞋类的销售额继续好于服装类。包括服装、皮具、手表、珠宝和化妆品等在内的奢侈品消费开始放缓，部分原因是因为非常富有的客户已经接近其原意消费的上限。据全球管理咨询公司波士顿咨询公司(Boston Consulting Group)的数据显示，去年上述奢侈品的销售额增长了7%，较2010-2012年每年11%的增速有所减缓。 The Row started with a T-shirt, Mary-Kate Olsen said. How we could make a perfect T-shirt in a great fabric that would fit any age. It was sort of just a project that evolved into a brand. After the T-shirt came the blazer and then the legging, it was about quality clothing, she continued. The twins, who dont have formal design-school training, tried to keep The Row from being lumped in with celebrity fashion lines. We didnt do an interview for it for the first three years, Mary-Kate Olsen said. Our whole point was if its good product, it will sell without a label or a logo or a face behind it, and it worked. The Row最初由制作T恤衫开始，玛丽-凯特奥尔森说，如何能用上好布料做出一件适合任何年龄的完美T恤衫，这是可以发展演化出一个品牌的项目。她接着说道，继T恤衫之后，她们设计了 开衫和裤袜，全都以品质服装为中心。奥尔森双胞胎姐妹没有接受过正规设计学校的训练，但她们尝试让The Row避免被归类在名人时装系列里。“开始三年我们都没有为品牌接受访问，” 玛丽-凯特奥尔森称，“我们的整体观点是如果这是好产品，即使没有品牌、标志或者明星做宣传，它也会大卖，结果证明这样成功了。” About 145 high-end department stores and boutiques world-wide carry The Rows apparel, while 77 carry its accessories. The Row declined to discuss sales. A 2009 New York Times article estimated sales at $10 million. The label is a division of Dualstar Entertainment Group, a private, brand-management company owned by the Olsens. Dualstar oversees their other businesses, which include lower-priced clothing lines, as well as movies and books - many featuring the twins as children. 全世界共有约145家高端百货商店和精品店出售The Row的服装，有77家还卖配饰。The Row拒绝透露销售额情况。一篇2009年的纽约时报(New York Times)文章曾估计其销售额在1,000万美元（约合人民币6,200万元）。该品牌是Dualstar Entertainment Group旗下一个分支。Dualstar是家私人品牌管理公司，所有者为奥尔森姐妹。该公司同时管理奥尔森姐妹的其他业务，包括其中端服装品牌，电影和书（许多都由儿童时的两姐妹为主人公）等。 Savile Row inspired The Rows name, the idea of made-to-measure clothing, Mary-Kate Olsen said. The lines minimalist clothes are sometimes elegantly slouchy, luxurious takes on staples such as the cable-knit sweater or the double-faced cashmere overcoat. The accessories share a similar discrete aesthetic. The Row的品牌名是从萨维尔街(Savile Row)获得的灵感，“我们的理念是量身定做的服装，”玛丽-凯特奥尔森说。该品牌极简抽象派风格的衣服时常会显得既优雅又随性，奢华造型会呈现在绞花针织毛衣或双面羊绒大衣上。其配饰也沿袭了相似的抽象美感。 To casual observers, The Rows merchandise raises the question why something so basic and simple-looking costs so much. 对普通人来说，The Row的商品带给大家一个疑问，即为什么这么基本和看起来简单的东西却要花这么多钱。 The clothing is a luxury product made in the U.S., Mary-Kate Olsen said. So I think were pretty much priced. . . She paused a moment to consider the word she wanted to use. Ashley Olsen swooped in, saying were competitively priced. (The two tend to complete each others thoughts.) Everyone that we sit next to as far as from the apparel standpoint, were competitively priced. 玛丽-凯特奥尔森表示，这些衣服“是在美国生产的奢侈品，所以我认为这个定价还算”她停顿了一会儿思考她的用词。阿什莉奥尔森插进来说，“我们的定价很有竞争力（姐妹两人好像在完成对方的思路）；至少从服装角度看，与其他大牌相比，我们的定价很有竞争力。” Ashley Olsen continued: We always do competitive research about materials, make, and what we are doing versus what other companies are doing. Some techniques in the way The Rows clothes are made add to their cost. 阿什莉奥尔森接着说：“我们一直在做关于材料、制作以及我们与其他公司产品对比的颇有竞争力的调研。”The Row服装的一些制作工艺也增加了成本。 The Olsens looked unsure when asked what their titles were. We dont like titles at this company, Mary-Kate Olsen said with a laugh. (Their titles are co-chief executives and co-creative directors.) The labels bags are made in Italy, which raises the cost. The Row uses expensive materials: One version of its new Book Bag comes in crocodile and was made using a Bombe technique, one of the twins described as an older technique that you dont see very often, that gives the leather a pebbled texture. Bags linings are fabrics such as linen rather than synthetic. 当被问及她们的头衔时，奥尔森姐妹看起来有点不太确定。玛丽-凯特奥尔森笑着说：“我们的这个公司不喜欢使用头衔。”（她俩的头衔为联合首席执行官和联合创意总监。）该品牌的皮包在意大利生产，这也增加了成本。The Row使用的原料都很昂贵：新出的一款手提包有鳄鱼皮款，还使用了一种被称为Bombe的工艺，她们中的一人解释它为“一种现在已不多见的老式工艺”，可以让皮质呈现鹅卵石纹理。皮包的衬里用的亚麻等布料而不是合成材料。 Daniella Vitale, chief operating officer of Barneys New York, the first retailer to carry The Rows bags, said Mary-Kate and Ashley were right all along by keeping their debut collection in rare and exclusive materials. The Barneys customer responded to that, she said, but the Olsens also recognized it was not sustainable in these super-luxe versions and began to evolve the collection into leathers, canvas, and suede with beautiful simple hardware. This evolution has really broadened their a