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General(一般性)1 Do you have a specification sheet?你有規格表嗎?2Are you lasting?你在拉幫嗎?3Are you stitching?你在針車嗎?4What is the shipping date? 船期是何時?5.Quality has been improved? 品質已有改進?6Quality did not improved? 品質未有改善。7Shoes are not clean ,it must get into habit of keeping shoes clean at all times. 鞋子不夠清潔,請務必養成保持鞋子幹凈的習慣。8Factory will be late for shipping. 工廠將會延遲交貨。9.Cloth material 布料10.Corduroy 燈心線11.Canvas 帆布12.Suede 反毛皮13.Poly urethane PU14.Nylon 尼龍15.Jute 麻布16.Nappa p.v.c 軟質P.V.C17.Tricot 特利可得18.Terry cloth 毛巾布19 foam 純棉20.Mesh 網布21.Syntex Backing 交織布22.Flannel 法蘭線23.Non-Woven 不織布24.Rubber sponge 橡膠發泡25.Boa 長毛裏26.Felt 扎氈27.Backing material 補強布裡28.Cement lamination 上自黏29.Hot melt attaching 加溫式貼合30.Insole 中底31.Outsole 大底32.Sock lining 鞋墊33.Botton filler 填腹34.Heel pad 鞋跟墊片35.Couter 後包洪寶36.Chemical sheet material 全張港寶前、後套37.Leather board 皮漿硬紙板38.Shank board 包住鐵心的硬紙版39.Texon40.Supertex41.Suntex 不同種類的中底42.Bondtex 43.Leather 牛皮44.Imitation leather 仿牛皮45.Full grain 珠面皮46.Corrected leather 磨面後花皮47.Drun dye leather 染皮48.Finished split 壓花二榔皮49.Split suede 二榔反毛皮 50.Patent leather 漆面皮51.Calfskin leather 小牛皮52.Skidskin leather 小山羊皮53.Pigskin leather 豬皮54.Side leather 半張大牛皮55.Embossed leather 壓花皮56.Picalon 皮克龍57.Open toe 鞋頭開口58.Closed toe 鞋頭密封59.Closed back 鞋後密口60.Open back 鞋後開口61.Open shank 鞋腰開口62.Upper 鞋面63.Vamp 鞋面前端64. Quarter 鞋腰65.Eyestay 鞋眼片66.Tongue 鞋舌67.Tongue loop 鞋舌扣環68.Mustache 後上片69.Back strap 鞋後直條70.Arch bandage 鞋腰內裡補強71.Toe cap 鞋頭片72.Sidertrim 邊飾73.Collar 鞋領口74.Vamp lining 鞋頭內裡75.Quarter lining 鞋身內裡76.Strap 皮條帶子77.Overlay 重疊78.Ornament 裝飾物79.Shaft of boot 靴統80.Heel cover 鞋跟包皮81.Insole binding 中底包皮82.Top line binding 鞋舌滾邊83.Tongue binding 鞋舌滾邊84.Bias binding 斜紋布條滾邊85.Straight binding 直紋滾邊86.Platform wrapper 鞋底包邊 87.Quarter strap 鞋背帶88.Vamp Stripping 抽條狀鞋面89.Vamp reinforce 鞋頭補強90.Qtr reinforce 鞋身補強91.Skeleton lining 半吊內裡92.Full sock 鞋墊(全片式)93.Half sock 半插鞋墊(半片式)94.Foxing 檔水沿條95.Mudguard96.Foot bed-molded sock 腳床、模子中底97.Size notch 裁刀記號齒98.Cookie 腳腰墊99.Pull strap 後跟拉環100.Raw edge 切邊101.Throat of vamp 鞋面封口102.When will be the cutting dies in factory? 何時裁刀可入廠?103.Cutting die are not correct。 裁刀不對104.Cutting pad is not smoothit is causing fraying .裁斷板不平造成裁斷面皮邊緣不整齊。105.Dies are not being placed correctly on material.裁剪不對裁刀方向。106.Cut parts must be tight from toe to heel. 裁剪部分必須由鞋頭至鞋跟方向。 107.The thickness of the material is not correct. 材料厚度不正確。108.The color is not same as the approved sample. 村料顏色與確認不一致。109.It is too dark. 顏色太深。 110.It is too light. 顏色太淺。111.There is a difference between the top cut and the bottom cut. 多層裁斷時最上片和最下片和差異。112.The leather is too hard. 皮太硬。113.Leather is too soft.皮太軟114.Leather is not being inspected before cutting.裁斷前皮料未檢驗。115.Leather is cracking. 皮料本身破裂。116.Have you a gauge for measuring thickness of material? 你有厚度計量厚度嗎?117.Stabs in die are too big.裁刀上針孔太大。118.Stabs in die should be taken out. 裁刀上針孔必須拿掉。119.Use E.V.A in die to compress material to overcome under or over cutting? 裁刀用EVA填腹克服多層或單層材料避免上下不一致。120.Are the dies whole and half size? 裁刀是全號或半號共用?121.Are the dies left and right? 裁刀是否分左右腳?122.How many pairs can you cut a day? 每天可裁幾雙?123.Finish of material is too light. 材料光澤太亮。124.Finish of material is too dull. 材料光澤太露面。125.What is the name of supplier? 材料供應廠商名稱。126.The lighting is not good enough for cutting. 裁斷機光線不足。127.The lighting is wrong position for cutting. 裁斷機光線照射方向不對,不利裁斷手操作。128.There are too many different shades in this leather. 這塊皮本身顏色深淺不一致。129.Finish of leather is loose -pipey. 皮料組成太鬆毛太長。130.Have you started cutting yet? 是否已經開始裁斷?131.Dies should have cutouts to reduce wrinkles when lasting 裁刀應有缺口以便消除幫角起皺。132.Are the cut pieces inspected after they are cut. 裁斷後每材料是否有人檢驗。133.Edges of leather must be stained. 皮料邊緣必須塗邊處理。134.The bevel on the cutting dies is on the wrong side. 裁刀刃口開錯邊。135.The cutting dies should have clearance. 裁刀刃內徑應有空隙容納材料。136.Backing material is too light 內裡材料太薄。137.Backing material is too heavy. 內裡材料太厚。138.Liguid stiffener can be used on back of material. 材料背面可用硬化糊使鞋頭硬一點。139.Cutting dies have changed shape. 裁刀變形了。140.Cut pieces must be color matched and numbered. 裁下的半成品應配色及編號。141.Backing cloth is not heavy enough. 材料布裡不夠厚。142.white material is turning yellow. 白色材料變黃。143.How many layers are you cutting at one time? 你裁斷時一次裁幾層?144Stabs in die are not correct. 裁刀上的記號針對。145.Material is fraying when cutting -fissuo paper or poly sheet can be tried to see if it will correct fraying. 材料於裁斷時生毛邊的情形-可試試看用薄紙或塑料紙看是否可防止。146.Some of the pieces are not cut in the right direction.某些半成品裁的方向不正確。Cutting Room( 裁斷組)1 Stationary head cutting machine.龍門式裁斷機2 Traveling head cutting machine. 龍門移動式裁斷機3 Swing beam cutting machine.搖臂式裁斷機4 Splitting machine片皮機5 Upper cutting dies鞋面裁刀6 Insole cutting dies 中底裁刀7 Outsole cutting dies大底裁刀8 Cutting pad切割板 Patterns(紙版)1 Pattern is not only made to help the stitching room but also the lasting room.紙版不只爲方便針車而設計,也是爲拉幫。2 Toe-cap has not sprung to correct problem of wrinkles鞋頭片(紙版的翹度不對)以致鞋頭有凹凸不平。(牙齒)3 Pattern over all are too short to make the shoe to be pulled too hard.整體而論,紙版設計得太少了,以致於鞋面拉幫太緊。4 Pattern is too loose at bottom of back.後幫(或後包)部分紙版太松。5 Pattern is too tight at bottom of back.。後幫(或後包)部分紙版太緊。6 Pattern is too loose at the top line. 鞋口的部分太松,紙版不夠合楦。7 All partern for synthetic and leather materials must be made to allow shoe to be pulled when lasting, just hard enough to lay material on the last without wrinkles, Shoe must not be pulled too hard causing excess lasting allowance, otherwise, the vamp will spring after last is removed from shoe and distorted of entire shoe, because of natural characters of material.所有型體不論是人工或是皮革的材質,紙版的設計,必須考慮到拉幫時材料置於楦頭上,需施力恰當,不致用力過猛,否則拔楦後,因爲皮料的伸縮不同,導致鞋頭翹度太高或鞋面扭曲。8 Sample size must be corrected before grading.9 Putting cut outs in toe area of vamp would help reducing wrinkles.10. Putting cut outs in heel area would help tomooh the heel seat.在紙版的後跟部位一些缺齒,可以有助後幫形狀更好。STITCHING(針車組)1. Check material for color and weight.檢查材料顏色與材質規格。2. Marking is not correct. 針車記號不正確。3. Leather has not skived correctly.皮料削邊不正確。4. Too much pressure on machine.針車壓力太大。5. Not enough stitches per inch.針碼不足。6. Not enough pressure on machine.針車壓力不夠。7. Too many stitches per inch.針碼太多。8. Stitching is too far from edge,it should be 1.5m/m.針距邊緣太遠應該1.5m/m.9. Stitching too close to edge.針距邊緣太近。10. Tension on thread is wrong.針線拉力不對。11. ZIGZAG throw is not wide enough.ZIGZAG(萬能車)針距太窄。12. ZIGZAG throw is too wide.ZIGZAG針距太遠。13. ToeCap is not stitched on marked position.鞋頭未按記號針車。14. Outside counter is not stitched in correct position.后外包片未按記號錢車。15. Too many wrinkles in collar lining.滾口內里太多皺折。16. Foam is not heavy enough. 泡棉太薄(滾口)17. Foam is not positioned high enough. 滾口泡棉位置太淺。18. Foam is not stitched correctly. 滾口泡棉位置不對。19. Binding is not stitched correctly. 滾邊不好。20. Tongue label is not in right location.鞋舌商標位置錯誤。21. Leather is not good.皮革不好。22. Needles are too big.針太大。23. Needles are not correct for this material.針不適合此種材料。24. Needles should be round point.應用圓頭針。25. Needles should be chisel point.應用劍尾針。26. Collar lining is too big.滾口內里太大。27. Collar not stitched in center.滾口未車於中心。28. Lining is not cemented.內里未黏著良好。29. Tongues are not stitched in center of eye stay .鞋舌未接合於鞋眼片中央30. Tongues are stitched in too high. 鞋舌接合太深。31. Tongue stitched is too low. 鞋舌接合太淺。32. Stitcher is not following marks. 針車手未摟記號針縫。33. Edge of material must be stained. 皮料邊緣必須塗邊處理。34. This operation is being done on the wrong machine. 這部分的車縫使用錯誤縫紉車。35. Operator can not do a satisfactory job if she has the wrong machine. 針車手因不正確的針車而無法完成令人滿意的車縫。36. Operator can not do a satisfactory job if she has not been trained properly. 針車手因訓練不足而無法完成工作。37. Reinforeing tope must be used under eyestay. 鞋眼片應加尼龍補強帶。38. Lasting is allowance stitch too far from edge. 幫腳連線的邊距太遠。39. Is factory using outside stitching room. 工廠是否有外包針車廠。40. Factory is responsible for quality of outside stitching.工廠需對外包錢車廠的品質負責。41. There is too much oil on this machine. 這台針車上太多油。42. The printing is not clear enough. 印刷不夠正確。43. Thread is not the correct color. 車線的顏色不夠正確。44. Threads are not being trimmed well enough. 車線的剪線不夠好。45. Lining are not trimmed well enough. 內里修得不夠好。46. Folding is not good enough. 折邊折得不好。47. Eyelets are loose must be tight.鞋眼鬆動一定要緊合。48. Enamel is coming off eyelets. 鞋眼掉漆。49. Washer must use with eyelet. 鞋眼須加內眼。50. The size of thread is wrong. 車線的粗細不對。51. Velcro quality is not satisfactory. 魔術璉的品質無法令人滿意。52. Cementing of vamp backer is not good enough. 鞋面的布里膠著不夠好。53. The round corners are being stitched square. 圓形的轉角被車成方形。54. The shoe is being pushed too fast on straight places-causing stitch per inch problems. 針車時皮料推進太快導致針距錯誤。55. Overall stitching is acceptable. 針車大致上可接受。56. These shoes must be separated reinspected. 這些鞋子須要先分開再重新品檢。57. French cord is not folded good enough. 法國滾折翻得不夠好。58. Must use reirforcement tape. 必須使用補強帶。 59. Reinforcement tape is not in right place.補強帶沒放在正確位置。 60. The label is not stitched correctly. 商標車得不正確。61. The upper is damaged because of poor lining trimming. 修內里時修到了鞋面使鞋面受損。62. The holes are not punched properly. 沖孔打得不合適。63. The punched holes must be cleaned out. 洞口應清理干淨。64. The color of bottom thread is wrong. 底線用錯顏色。65. The thread is not strong enough. 針車線不夠粗。66. Eyelet holes are too big. 鞋眼洞太大。67. Everyone should turn shoe over to check tension. 檢查鞋面針車時務必將鞋面與內里翻過檢視針距及上下線。68. Feed is too high, it is marking shoe. 針車狗齒不能太高太銳利以致使鞋面留下針車痕痕跡跡。69. This should be barred.運動鞋眼套必須有半圓形針車。LASTING ROOM (成型組)1. Aluminium 鋁楦2. Plastic last 塑膠楦3. Hinged last 兩截的合葉式鞋楦4. Last bottom pattern 楦頭底版5. Heel curve 后踵弧度6. Toe spring 鞋頭翹度7. Primer 處理劑8. Cement 膠水9. Insole 中底10. Outsole 塑膠楦11. Lace 鞋帶12. Lace tip 鞋帶頭13. Eyestay 鞋眼扣環14. Sock lining 中底(鞋墊)內里15. Stee 鐵心16. Unit sole 由模具成型的大底17. P. PVC大底18. T.P.R PVC大底19. Rubberlon 橡膠底20. Plantation crepe 生膠底21. Imitation crepe 仿生膠大底22. Enjection 射出底23. E.V.A .midsole EVA中插底24. Midsole 中底25. Wedge 中插26. Heel 后跟27. Toplift(Top Pieces) 天皮28. Staple 釘書機29. Nail 釘子30. Screw 螺絲釘31. Lasting pincers 鉗幫機鋏子(馬嘴鉗)32. Lasting tacks 攀鞋用平頭釘33. Lasting slip 楦頭潤滑劑34. Heel cover 後跟35. Outsole edge stain 大底塗邊36. Latex cement 白膠37. Rubber cement 橡膠糊38. P.U cement PU糊39. Neoprene cement 藥水糊40. Top line 鞋口糊41. Time dwell 停留時間42. Insole binding 中底包邊43. Back height 鞋后踵高底44. Vamp length 鞋頭長度45. Eyestay opening 兩鞋眼片之間的距離46. Bottom filler 填腹47. Insole attaching 中底附著在楦底48. Toe lasting machine 鉗幫機49. Side lasting machine 腰幫機50. Heel seat lasting machine 后幫機51. Wire brush roughing machine 鐵線型打粗機52. Sand paper roughing machine 砂紙型打粗機53. Stone roughing machine 砂輪式打粗54. Back part molding 后踵定型55. Lasting allowance cementing 鞋面幫角上膠56. Hand lasting 手攀鞋57. Outsole press 大底壓著58. Thermo toe box 熱熔膠式鞋頭前套59. Chemical sheet toe box 港寶前套60. Pull out last 拔楦61. Heat setter 定型加硫箱62. Pull out staple 拔空氣釘63. Outsole stitching 大底車線64. Cooling chamber 冷凍箱65. Putting on shank 放置鐵心66. Outsole attaching 貼底67. Toe steamed 鞋頭熱蒸氣機68. Muller fo
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