面料纺织知识(中英文版).ppt

CircularKnittedFabrics OIAQualityTrainingCentre ContentsCircularKnittedFabricsA FabricsMadewithaSingleSetofNeedles SingleKnits i SingleJersey SingleJerseywithElastane Pique Lacoste BabyFrenchTerry JacquardiiTerryiii FrenchTerryB FabricsMadeonTwoNeedleBeds DoubleKnits i Interlockii DoubledKnittedFabricsiii DoubleKnitted JacquardivRib ShaftWeaving Schematic梭 平 织法简图 Warping CircularKnittingMachine大筒圆编針织机 CircularKnittingMachine大筒圆编針织机 弹力单面布SingleJerseywithElastane 单面四角网眼布Piqu 单面六角网眼布Lacoste 单面四段鱼鳞布BabyFrenchTerry 单面布提花Jacquard 毛巾刷毛布TerryBrush 蚂蚁刷毛BucklyFleece 毛巾提花布TerryJacquard 双面刷毛PolarFleece bothsidebrushing combing shearing 单刷单摇Onesidebrushing combing shearing anti pilling 双刷单摇Bothsidebrushing combing shearingbutonlyonesideanti pilling 双刷双摇Bothsidebrushing combing shearing anti pilling 斜纹毛圈布TwillFrenchTerry 拉毛布Fleece 棉毛布 双罗纹组织 Interlock 双面布提花DoubleKnitted Jacquard 双面布网眼DoubleKnitted Piqu 健康布 棉盖涤 吸湿快干 HealthyFabric 猪皮布PigSkin 双面纱卡布Sucker 法式罗纹布FrenchRib 罗纹Rib1 1 罗纹Rib2 2 花式罗纹FancyRib 如1 1 2 2 提花罗纹 如用结构来提花 RibJacquard 移圈罗纹RibPointelle 交叉毛圈布CrossFrenchTerry MiniFrenchTerry ClassificationofKnittedFabrics针织分类DefinitionafterISO7839 1984Knittedfabricsaremadefrominterlockingloops formedfromasingleyarnorfrommany Theyareclassifiedintoweftknittedandwarpknittedfabrics Characteristics特性Maybemadefromasingleyarn 可用单支纱织成 Theyarnisfedcrosswisetothelengthofthefabric 横向织法 Canbeunravelled 会脱散 mayladder 呈梯状 Knittingneedlescanworksequentiallyoralltogether 所有的针可按顺序或同时进行编织 Characteristics特性Requiresafullwarpsheet 需要整片经面 Theloop formingyarnsarefedinthedirectionofthelengthofthefabric 直向织法 Cannotbeunravelled usuallydoesnotladder 不会脱散 不呈梯状 Knittingneedlesalwaysworktogetherasaunit 所有的针同时进行编织 纬编 经编 针织布 Production 一根纱在纬向的每一根针上成圈SequentialloopformationonaflatmachineSequentialneedles Machinescanbeflatorcircular Needlesareusuallyofthelatchtype 机台可分平编和圆编 一根纱在经向相邻的几根针上成圈LoopformationonawarpknittingmachineWarpknitting Warpknittingusesoneormorewarpsheets Eachyarnisloopedaroundaneedleandtheneedlesareallmovedtogether 每一支纱在一根针上成圈 所有的针同时进行工作 WeftKnittedFabrics WarpKnittedFabrics 纬编 经编 LatchNeedles NeedlesandSinkerforSingleKnittingMachine单面针织机之针和沉降片 NeedlesforDoubleKnittingMachine双面针织机之针 单面针织机SingleKnittingMachine 双面针织机DoubleKnittingMachine 中间空心 中间实心 Single DoubleKnittingMachines 單面針织機平均一天24小時的產量約為250 500Kg 布雙面針织機平均一天24小時的產量約為250Kg 布依布種及紗的粗細不同產能不同 紗越細產能越低 紗越粗產能越高 SingleKnittingMachine单面针织机鸟瞰图 LoopFormation 起针挺针退圈垫纱 弯纱脱圈 成圈 LatchNeedles TheIntermeshingofLoopsHead theneedleloop twolegs andtwofeet Thefeetjoiningtwoadjacentloopsformthesinkerloop Fabricisformedbyintermeshingloops Eachloophasfourintermeshingpointsintwopairs Thelegswithinapairmustalwaysintermeshinthesamesense bothlegslyingeitherunderorovertheheadoftheprecedingloop Theupperpairmayintermeshintheoppositesensetothelowerpair dependingontheconstruction Loopcharacteristics 網狀交織結合點 FaceandBackofKnittedLoops 针织布的正反面 Thelowerpairofmeshingpointsdeterminewhethertheloopisafacelooporabackloop Abackloop isformedwhentheloopisdrawnthroughthepreviousloopinadirectionawayfromtheviewer thelegsofthelooplieundertheheadoftheprecedingloop Afaceloop isformedwhentheloopisdrawnthroughthepreviousloopinadirectiontowardstheviewer thelegsofthelooplieovertheheadoftheprecedingloop Backloop反面成圈 Faceloop正面成柱 圈Head 柱Leg CoursesandWales纬向和经向Acourseisarowofloopsproducedbyadjacentneedlesduringthesameknittingcycle Awaleisacolumnofloopsproducedbythesameneedleonsuccessiveknittingcycles Acourse纬向 Awale经向 BasicConstructionofCircularKnittedFabrics针织布的基本组织 1 Knit成圈2 Tuck集圈 3 Miss Float 不成圈 如網眼布Piqu 如提花布Jacquard 吃紗不成圈謂之集圈 一次不脫圈稱為一次集圈 二次不脫圈稱為二次集圈 鉤中會出現三根紗 一根為底紗 加上二次集圈 等於有三根紗 如單面針織布SingleJersey TuckandFloat Miss LoopsAtuckstitchcomprisesaheldloopandatuckloop bothintermeshedinthesamecourse 由成圈與集圈組成 Heldloop alooppulledthroughtheloopofthepreviouscourseandretainedbytheneedleoveroneormorecourses 成圈 Tuckloop alengthofyarnreceivedbyaneedlebutnotpulledthroughtheloopofthepreviouscourse 一根紗在針上吃紗但不成圈 掛在下一路的線圈上 Float miss loop alengthofyarnnotreceivedbyaneedleandconnectingtwoloopsofthesamecoursethatarenotinadjacentwale 一根紗不與緊鄰的縱向紗圈相結合 而跳開與同排近鄰的紗圈相結合 Atuckstitch Afloat ormiss loop Atuckloop 集圈 不成圈 LoopFormation 起针挺针退圈垫纱 弯纱脱圈 成圈 LatchNeedles Plain SingleJerseyThisstructureismadewithonlyasinglesetofneedles Itiscalledsingleface plainorsinglejersey Jerseyisageneralnameforknittedfabrics Itisnotrestrictedtoanyparticularstructure 单面针织布是由一套针织成的 Thetwosidesofthefabrichaveadifferentappearance Onesideshowsonlyfaceloops theothersideonlybackloops 正面呈现柱状 反面呈现弧圈 Ithasrelativelylowextensibilityinthewidthandtendstocurlattheedges 单面针织布的横向延展性不大 布边趋向卷曲 Plain face back production Cross tuck Piqu 交叉集圈Piqu stylereliefpatterningcanbemadeonsingleordoublejerseybasestructures Thesinglejerseybaseismorecommonbecauseitislighterweight Thepatternisformedbyalternatingplainandtuckloopswithinonecourseandbetweenonecourseandanother Piqu 布可用单針機或双針機织出 为求纺织品重量轻 一般多织成单面布 在纬向中可集圈与成圈交替出现 雙面布的piqu 較單面布的piqu 柔軟 Cross tuck pique face back Inlay Loopback BabyFrenchTerry镶嵌结构Anextra inlay yarnisfloatedonthetechnicalback tuckingatregularintervals Usuallytheinlayyarnismuchcoarserthanthegroundyarn Thesefabricshaveafinefaceandabulkyloopedbackwhichisoftenbrushedorraised 多一根粗纱镶嵌在织物的反面 可达到正面组织平滑 反面组织粗糙 镶嵌的纱可悬弧在表面或可经刷毛加工 提高了织物的厚度和保暖性 Inlayorloopback schematic Inlayorloopback face back Jacquard提花布Whenacolorisnotrequiredontheface theyarnfloatsonthebackofthefabric Awiderangeofdesignscanbecreated Thefabricisnotveryextensible becauseofthelargenumberoffloats Applicationsincludefashionpulloversandwaistcoats 当色纱不希望在提花布的正面呈现时 可隐藏浮出在反面 其设计可多样化 织纹不具好的延展性 因为反面被浮出的色纱勾缠住 Jacquard schematic Jacquard back Jacquard face PlushorTerry毛巾布Plushorknittedterryfabricismadebyincluding plating anextrayarnwhichismadetoformextendedsinkerloops Theplatedyarncanbeknittedateveryneedleoronselectedneedlestoformapattern 毛巾布是多加一根纱织出的 在反面造成圈状的效果 可在每一根针上成圈 也可在选择的针上成圈 造成不同的效果 Cutplush orknittedvelourismadebycuttingtheplatedyarnloops Thefabricsurfacethenresemblesvelvet velour 成圈后可剪断而成天鹅绒织品 Plushorterry schematic反面形成毛圈 Plushorterry Cutplush velour 毛圈被切断謂之天鵝絨 毛圈不被切斷謂之毛巾布 正包毛巾布ReversePlaitingTerry 反包毛巾布Velour 天鹅绒 面Face 底Back 线圈Loop 面Face 底Back 线圈Loop 面与底的线圈纱种相同 不剪线圈 Yarnsoffaceandbackaresame loopwon tbecut 面与底的线圈纱种不同 底的线圈剪后 面的组织不受影响Differentyarnsbetweenfaceandback loopwillbecutsothatthestructureoffacewon tbeaffected TwoTypesofTerryFabrics RibFabric罗纹布Ribfabricsaremadeontwoneedlebedswiththeneedlesinastaggeredformation Theloopsaredrawninoppositedirectionssothatfaceandbackloopsalternateineachcourse Bothsidesofthefabricshowonlythefaceloops Thebackloopsareexposedonlywhenthefabricisextendedinthewidthdirection Ribfabricsareveryextensibleinthewidth Applicationsincludepullovers waistcoats underwear socks 罗纹布是由两套针交叉织出的 它們的圈形成上下交叉排列 两面都呈现柱状 反面弧圈只有在拉开横向才会出现 罗纹布在横向延展性佳 Ribfabric production 2x2Rib BroadRibs罗纹Awiderangeofribfabricscanbeproduced dependingontheset outoftheneedles Themostpopularis2x2ribwhichismadebytakingeverythirdneedleoutofactionineachneedlebed 罗纹的种类千变万化 最普遍的是2上2下罗纹 每隔两针变化一次 Thetwosidesofthe2x2ribfabriclookthesame Ifthefabricisstretchedinthewidth thetworibloopsareexposedbetweenthetwofaceloops Itisveryelasticinthewidthdirection 2上2下罗纹正反两面看起来一样 在横向具有非常好的伸展性 2x2rib Interlock棉毛布 双罗纹组织 Interlockismadeontwoneedlebedsinwhichtheneedlesaredirectlyopposedanworkalternately 棉毛布是由两套针织出来的 正反各一套罗纹组织在中间被锁住 Ittakestwocoursestomakeonerowofloopsonthefaceandback Bothsideshowonlyfaceloopsandlookidentical Thefabricisextensible butnotveryelastic 棉毛布正反两面都呈现相同的柱状 织纹具有延展性但缺乏很好的弹性 Interlock production DoublePiqu 双面组织Piqu 布Doublepiqu ismadeonribmachinesbyaselectionofknittedloopsandfloats Thefloatsgreatlyreducethewidthextensibility 罗纹机可以织出双面组织piqu 布 因为用float的织法 所以大大减少了织品本身横向的延展性 雙面布的piqu 較單面布的piqu 柔軟 Doublepiqu face back RibJacquard罗纹提花Indoublejerseyjacquardmachines theneedlesinthetwoneedlebeds cylinderanddial canbeselectedeithertoknitormiss 运用双针织提花机 可以选用成圈或不成圈两种织法而成 Jacquard face back BasicCharacteristics ApplicationsofWovenFabrics梭 平 织布的基本特性与应用 BasicCharacteristics ApplicationsofWeftKnits纬编针织布的基本特性与应用 BasicCharacteristics ApplicationsofWarpKnits经编针织布的基本特性与应用 弹力单面布SingleJerseywithElastane 单面四角网眼布Piqu 单面六角网眼布Lacoste 单面四段鱼鳞布BabyFrenchTerry 单面布提花Jacquard 毛巾刷毛布TerryBrush 蚂蚁刷毛BucklyFleece 毛巾提花布TerryJacquard 双面刷毛PolarFleece bothsidebrushing combing shearing 单刷单摇Onesidebrushing combing shearing anti pilling 双刷单摇Bothsidebrushing combing shearingbutonlyonesideanti pilling 双刷双摇Bothsidebrushing combing shearing anti pilling 斜纹毛圈布TwillFrenchTerry 交叉毛圈布CrossFrenchTerry MiniFrenchTerry 拉毛布Fleece 棉毛布 双罗纹组织 Interlock 双面布提花DoubleKnitted Jacquard 双面布网眼DoubleKnitted Piqu 健康布 棉盖涤 吸湿快干 HealthyFabric 猪皮布PigSkin 双面纱卡布Sucker 法式罗纹布FrenchRib 罗纹Rib1 1 罗纹Rib2 2 花式罗纹FancyRib 如1 1 2 2 提花罗纹 如用结构来提花 RibJacquard 移圈罗纹RibPointelle 弹力单面布SingleJerseywithElastane 单面四角网眼布Piqu 单面六角网眼布Lacoste 单面四段鱼鳞布BabyFrenchTerry 单面布提花Jacquard 毛巾刷毛布TerryBrush 蚂蚁刷毛BucklyFleece 毛巾提花布TerryJacquard 双面刷毛PolarFleece bothsidebrushing combing shearing 单刷单摇Onesidebrushing combing shearing anti pilling 双刷单摇Bothsidebrushing combing shearingbutonlyonesideanti pilling 双刷双摇Bothsidebrushing combing shearing anti pilling 斜纹毛圈布TwillFrenchTerry 拉毛布Fleece 棉毛布 双罗纹组织 Interlock 双面布提花DoubleKnitted Jacquard 双面布网眼DoubleKnitted Piqu 健康布 棉盖涤 吸湿快干 HealthyFabric 猪皮布PigSkin 双面纱卡布Sucker 法式罗纹布FrenchRib 罗纹Rib1 1 罗纹Rib2 2 花式罗纹FancyRib 如1 1 2 2 提花罗纹 如用结构来提花 RibJacquard 移圈罗纹RibPointelle 交叉毛圈布CrossFrenchTerry MiniFrenchTerry 1 Composition成份 Buyingoffice Supplier Factory 2 FabricWeight克重 gm m BuyingOffice Supplier Factory 3 YarnCount紗支數 粗细度 Supplier Factory 4 Gauge針數 gg inch Supplier Factory 5 FabricWidth幅寬 Supplier Factory CircularKnittingFactory CircularKnittingMachine大筒圆编針织机 CircularKnittingMachine大筒圆编針织机 FabricTurningMachine翻边机 BrushingMachine刷毛机 AntiPillingProcess摇粒 Functionalaspectsofdouble layersportswear SewingwithCorrectNeedle Damagedstitches Undamagedstitchesbyusingthecorrectneedle C 100 CottonCVC ChiefValueCottonCotton PolyesterExample 80 20 60 40 55 45 T C Polyester Tetoron CottonExample 65 35 SP SpunPolyester StapleYarn短纤 100 Polyester CVC30 2 Twist合捻 CVC30 1x2 兩支相同粗細的棉紗同织 C30 C20 兩支不同粗細的棉紗同织 C30 OP40D Elastane Spantex彈力絲 C30 100D 36F 100Denier紗內有36條filaments 纱支数和单纱之相当支数纺纱为一种合捻 股 线 如棉纺短纤40 2 其意为每40 1之两根纱捻合且合股在一起 合股而成的纱 其厚 粗 度为原来40 1支纱的两倍 或相当于20 1支纱的厚 粗 度 因为我们以反比例法处理它 50 2的单纱之相当支数是25 S 45 3的单纱相当支数为15 S 此种说法也使用于毛纺短纤 1 单纱2 合捻 股 纱 合捻 股 纱2 Fold Ply Yarn合捻 股 纱3 Fold Ply Yarn 丝状纱 长纤 很少合股而成 当它合股时 此纱经常使用的表示方式为 2合股40Danier 此类纱的单纱之相当支数为80Danier Nm 每公克纱线或纤维所具有的长度 米 用于短纤Nec 每磅棉紗线所具有長度840碼的倍数 用于短纤Tex 每1000米長的紗线重量 克 用于長纤Denier 每9000米長的紗线重量 克 用于長纤 1Tex 特 9Denier1Denier 旦 1 9Tex 纱线粗细 密度 计量单位间的换算 Nm 公支数 Nec 英支数 x1 693 Nec 英支数 Nm 公支数 1 693Nm 公支数 x0 59 NmxTex 1000 Necx