课题-服装设计外文翻译.docx

服装设计外文翻译CoutureSewing Technique Claire B.Shaeffer Printed UnitedStates originallypublished TauntonPress,Inc. Chapter4.Edge Finishes Hems,Facings BindingsUnless finished someway, garmentravel lookincomplete. edgestheneckline; verticalfront edges jackets,coats manyblouses; jackets canbecome distinctive, decorative elements design.Threefinishes usedextensively couture:hems,facings edgefinish depends manythingsthe shape edgebeing finished; its position type,design garment;current fashion trends; individualwearer bottomedge asymmetrical,curved, scalloped otherwiseunusually shaped, facing.Even when twodifferent edges requireslightly different finishes tailoredgarment would require very different finishing from eveninggown, even similar designs vorked dissimilarfabrics would dictate finishes suitable eachfabric. Although hems, facings alledge finishes, each has slightlydifferent function. Hems generallyused loweredges garmentsection manyhelp garmenthang attractively addingweight edge.Facings, otherhand, verticaledges garments.Bindings can upper,lower verticaledges, theyreused most often replacefacings rather than hems. Facings can separatesections finishcurved shapededges. whenused onlyslightly curved, nothingmore than widehem allowance, whichcase theyre called extended facings. Both hems onlyone sideusually garment.Bindings, separatestrips garmentedge finishboth sides garmentattractively. Because materialstakes backseat desiredresults, edges alwaysfinished simplestmethod onemost often used ready-to-wearconstruction homesewing. Whatever finishingmethod, hems, facings bindingscan sewnentirely machinework. handwork visible finishedproduct, however, handwork used traditionalcouture garment. FACINGS Facings, like hems, garment.Unlike hems, which hang free garmentshang more than its overall shape, faced edges frequently fit bodyscurves subtlyaffect garmentssilhouette. Used garmentopenings, curved edges shapededges like jacket lapels, facings contribute significantly overallimpression well-constructedgarment. threetypes facings:extended, shaped bias.Two biasfacingsare cut separately from sewnfrom self-fabric lightweightlining fabrics. extendedfacing garmentsection like plainhem course,self-fabric. extendedfacing nothingmore than 2-in.hem sewnexactly like plainhem (see pp. 63-64). When garmentedge length-wisegrain, extendedfacing duplicates slightcurve, facingcant duplicate mayhave eased,stretched edgesmoothly. extendedfacing usedextensively couturebecause foldededge moresupple than seamededges biasfacings consequentlydrapes better. Edges extendedfacings generallyinterfaced stabilizedso originalshape itsname suggests, shapedfacing ususllyduplicates oftenused edgesintended crisp,constructed look, alwaysused intricatelyshaped edges like scallopedhem. biasfacing stripcut truebias. Because doesntduplicate facingmust itself edge.Bias facings madefrom lightweight fabrics producenarrow, inconspicuous facings. cousture,more than one type oftenused singlegarment singleedge. pinkgazar dress shown above, example,has extended facings frontneckline backopening shapedfacings frontneckline backopening shapedfacings backneckline. Similarly, p.60has shapedfacing upperhalf frontedge extendedfacing lowerhalf edge.Before applying any kind facing,examine garmentsfit determinewhether edgeneeds staytape (see pp. 49-50) interfaced(see 68).Once youve handled youcan proceed facingyouve chosen. SHAPED FACINGS Shaped facings can machine.Both types couture,while only machine applications machineapplication course,faster, sometimesmore difficult facingso fitssmoothly, sometimesvisible garmentedge. instructionsbelow applyingshaped facings machine,refer yourfavorite sewing manual.) directionsfocus necklinefacings because theyre most frequently used coutureworkrooms. However, directionscan otheredges waistbands,armholes, applied pockets, collars garmentlinings. facingcan madeany time after neckedge stabilizedappropriately design.Facings can cutfrom originalgarment pattern edgewasnt changed during fittingprocess, garmentitself can serve pattern.When thread-tracedneckline can correspondingstitching line finishedneckline can also guidewhen youre applying hand.Neck facings can severalshapes. Two mostpopular traditionalcirclular shape, which measures evendistance all around from rectangularshape, which extends armscyeseams. When largershape facingedges can seamlines,holding them smooth facingshadow may also lessobtrusive largershape, depending obviousdisadvantage additionalfabric introduced shoulderarea, which may give bulkyappearance. One solution reducingsome seamlines1/2 originalpositions. alwaysaligned correspondinggarment seamlines, homesewing. lessfamiliar rectangular facing. caneasily circularfacing, Start selectingsome scraps from your garment fabric backfacings unless whichcase use lighter,firmly woven material facings.Rectangular pieces preferablebecause yourecutting rectangularfacing high,round neckline back,begin onelarge rectangle about 16 frontfacing twosmaller ones about backfacings. When applying garmentedge before making facingso youcan use finished,do so before starting freeedge lieflat. Trim seamallowance around garmentneck wrongside. Baste generous1/5 seamallowances tendency curlaround neck,snip shallow cuts rawedge every inch necklineseam allowance lie flat(as shown wrongside up, place necklineover pressingcushion pressjust necklineedge. yourfingers, gently try rawedge. necessary,trim edgefurther firmlywoven fabrics lessstabble fabrics. seamallowance still doesnt lie flat, clip rawedge short,closely spaced snips up bastingstitches around neckedge. Use loosecatchstitch seamallowance garmenthas neither, sew carefully so stitchesdo rightside garment.Cut eachsection faced.Before proceeding, decide whether relacating shoulderseams bulk.After relacating youdecide doso, begin wrongsides together, grainlinestogether centerfront itsfacing. garmentneckline curved, whenworn, smooth place,pinning yougo. When you get shoulderseams, smooth frontfacing over seamsso seamallowances flat.Pin trimaway shoulderseams neckedgd, leaving 1/2-in. seam allowances shownabove. Pin backfacing(s) shoulderseams,trim rawedges under, shownabove. point,you can machine-stitch shoulderseams. neckline,trim away excess,leaving 1/2-in.seam allowance.Turn under rawedge so garmentsseam allowance. necessary,clip turnunder smoothly shallowcurves, you can turn back neckedge presslightly. Using fellstitch slipstitch,sew neckedge shoulderseams werentmachine-stitched. Remove presslightly. BIAS FACINGS biasfacing narrowstrip fabriccut truebias shaped,rather than cut, faces.Well adapted softedges, frequentlyused lightweightsilk cottonfabrics. couturework-rooms, most bias facings hand.Generally, self-fabric sewnfrom light-weight fabric, heavy,lining material can usedinstead. Bias facings lessconspicuous than shaped facings, requireless fabric, theyre both more comfortable wearnext moreeconomical twodisadvantages facings,however. When biasfacing garmentedge rarelyinterfaced biasfacing usuallyslipstitched sometimesdifficult stitchesfrom showing garment.Most bias facings finishedso theyre about 1/2 jewelneckline skirt.Generally, biasfacing, moredifficult curvededge. Before applying biasfacing, finish garmentedge. Fold seamallowance wrongside baste1/8 edge.Clip edgelie flat. wrongside up, press edge.Measure garmentedge biasstrip several inches longer, joinseveral strips lengthyou need. 11/2-in.wide facing, stripshould straightedges 11/2in.wide curvededges. Fold one longedges under 1/4 bestaccomplished onetime foldededge yourhands 1-in.pleats so stayfolded without pressing, which might stretch wrongside up wrongside biasstrip wrongside foldedgarment edge, aligning biasedge basting,1/8 garmentedge. Pin bias,easing stripuntil edgesmoothly, baste.Place edgeover pressingcu