买手和商品企划师的职能分工

UK retailing英国零售业,James Clark,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,2,Lecture agenda 课程结构,What is retailing ? 零售业是什么？Supply chain roadmap 供应链流程图Review of the UK market size and shape 英国市场的规模和形式Analysis 分析And the relevance 相关的因素Strategy planning tools 策略制定Review of fashion B&M structures 时尚买手和商品企划师B&M structure charts 工作结构图Roles of Buyer and Merchandiser 买手和商品企划师的职能,Retailing what is it ?什么零售产业？,The right product, at the right price, in the right place, at the right time（合适的产品，适当的价钱，合适的场所进行销售，还要注意在适当的时间）,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,4,Supply chain roadmap,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,5,UK market size and shape英国市场的规模和形式,Market data is important for any retailer/designer来自市场的 数据对零售商和设计师都是至关重要的信息Awareness of market 对市场的清楚认识Size, segments, customers 市场规模，组成， 消费者Awareness of opportunity 对所存在机遇的认识Growth areas of the market, demographic changes 市场中在发展的 部分，人口统计的变化Awareness of risks 对潜在风险的认识Declining areas of the market, competition levels 市场中正在走下坡 路的部分，竞争对手的水平Awareness of trends 对流行趋势的感知Shopping habits, attitude to price 消费者的购物习惯，对价格的态度,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,6,UK market size and shape英国市场的规模和形式,Awareness of the market 对市场的了解认识UK retail market valued at 250bn in 2005 英国零售业在2005年价值25000亿英镑One third of retail sales in stores 1/3属于店铺零售业Clothing & footwear market valued at 15% of retail sales 服装，鞋业占了整个零售市场的15%Womenswear represents 60% of clothing/footwear sales 女装占了整个服装，鞋业销售的60%Retail represents 6% of UK GDP 零售业占了整个英国国内生产总值的6%,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,7,UK market size and shape英国市场的规模和形式,Awareness of opportunity 现有的机遇Silver consumers to grow by 40% in the next 20 years 年长顾客会随社会人群 老龄化而变得越来越多，未来20年后会增长到40% Post war baby boomers have highest disposable income战后生育高峰后的这代 人收入很高，用于消费的钱相应提高。Youth customers have more time to shop 年轻的消费者有更多时间去购物消费On line shopping just 4% of market 网上购物只占了市场的4%Value retailers market share 20%, doubling in 6 years 零售业占整个市场的 20%的，在六年后还会翻番,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,8,UK market size and shape英国市场的规模和形式,Awareness of risk 现存的危机Retail inflation at 7% versus 29% for economy over the last 10 years 最近十年内零售业通货膨胀率高Brand and retailer loyalty is declining 顾客对品牌的忠诚度下降Consumer spending being diverted from clothing to non clothing markets 消费者转向非服装类消费Retail market is mature 零售市场非常成熟Price competition fierce in womens entry price point basics 刚进入市场的女装品牌的价格战十分激烈,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,9,UK market size and shape英国市场的规模和形式,Awareness of trends 趋势的感知Consumer awareness of designer market results in less loyalty 市场变得选择越来越多，设计款式越来越丰富，顾客开始产生疑问，为什么要对某一品牌保持忠诚呢 Shopping seen as key social event for youth customers 对年轻消费者来说，购物消费被看成是一项主要的社会活动Womenswearwear style and price led 女装趋势由款式和价格所引导Menswear brand and ease of shopping led 男装消费则更注重品牌和休闲Price key factor in customer purchasing 在消费者购买中，价格是关键因素,Retail structures 零售职能结构,Buying and Merchandising购买和商品企划,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,11,Management structure 管理结构,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,12,Buying structure 购买部结构,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,13,Merchandising structure 商品企划部,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,14,Related roles 相关的部门,Design 设计部门Head of design ensures consistent brand equity across all categories 设计总监要确保品牌内的所有产品都保持品牌品质的一致性Individual designers work with individual buying teams 一个设计师和一个 购买小组一起合作PR and Marketing 公共关系和市场营销部门Communicate brand equity to customers 向顾客传达品牌品质Work in liaison with buying teams 和购买小组协调一致进行工作Quality assurance 质检部门Monitor supplier quality versus UK regulations 按照英国的质检会要求检查 供应商的货Involvement in supplier base management 参与到供应基本管理Retail 零售部门Ensure store design and layout is consistent with buying strategy 保证店铺 设计和陈列都和买手制定的销售战略保持一致Supply chain 供应链Manages stock management logistics, systems and process 管理库存，配 货，系统和整个过程,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,15,Notes on structure charts对职能结构图的说明,Guide to structure charts 结构图Structures vary according to complexity, size of business and market positioning 职能分布可能会因为不同情况，商业大小或市场定位而不同Directors roles 主管的角色Single multi category 单一多元化类别 Set strategic vision 战略计划的制定Head of Buying or Merchandising 购买部和商品企划部的总管Oversee all buying teams in category 监视下属的每个购买小组Regularly review decisions and have veto power 定期的检验之前的决定和具有否定权Buying teams 购买小组Buyers and Merchandisers equal on team 买手和商品企划师的地位等同Defined roles: Buyers product, Merchandisers financial 买手负责商品,商品企划师负责财务计划,Buyers 买手,The role 角色和职能,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,17,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,18,What do retailers look for in a buyer?零售商寻找什么样的买手呢？,Interest in product 首先要对产品感兴趣Awareness of trends and relevance to customer profiles 要了解流行时尚并把此结合到顾客的分类中Commercial mindset 商业头脑Character strength to include decision making 有决定问题的能力Relevant university education 相关的教育背景Textiles, design, retail courses, brand management 纺织品，设计，零售 品牌管理Relevant work experience 相关的工作经验Buying, office based work, team based experience 购买，办公室工作经历 团队工作经验,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,19,Buying role 买手的工作内容,Develop product proposition 给产品定位Develop planning strategies 经营策略的制定Deliver balanced product ranges 品类设置的实施Source and maintain supplier base 寻找和保持供应源Support and deliver marketing proposition 支持和实施市场发展计划Support and deliver store planning initiatives 支持店铺的工作,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,20,Develop product proposition 给产品定位,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,21,Profile of a Buyer 买手的工作内容,Develop product proposition 给产品定位Review top level company strategy, competitors and market data 分析回顾公司战略，竞争对手情况和市场数据Identify key gaps in product proposition 发掘产品种类的空白Identify changes to structure, direction and design of product area 决定产品的结构，方向和设计的变化,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,22,Develop planning strategies经营策略的制定,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,23,Profile of a Buyer买手的工作内容,Develop planning strategies 经营策略的制定Review competitor positioning 竞争对手的产品定位Create minimum credible offer (MCO) 创建自己的最小摆放量Agree sales plan growths/declines for product area 决定销售计划Develop price architecture 建立价格结构Visit trade shows/suppliers: be aware of trend prediction 参观贸易 展，供应洽谈会，对流行趋势预测充分了解,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,24,Deliver balanced product ranges实施均衡的产品品类设置,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,25,Profile of a Buyer 买手的工作内容,Deliver balanced product ranges 实施均衡的产品品类设置Work with Designers to develop range designs 与设计师合作做产品设计Review product through sampling & sealing process 通过样本检验产品Develop necessary packaging design 必要的包装设计Ensure strategy variables are delivered 保证实施战略的各个方面Price, margin, quality, lead time 价格，利润，质量，订货至 送货时间Ensure range width and depth complies with range plans 保证产品品类设置的实施（种类、数量）,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,26,Source and maintain supplier base寻找和保持供货商的基础,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,27,Profile of a Buyer 买手的工作内容,Source and maintain supplier base 寻找和保持供货商的基础Source supplier base suitable for product plans and designs 寻找合适产品风格类型的供应商Review fit of existing supplier base 调整与现有供货商的关系Work with Quality assurance on sampling and sealing process 在制作样本的过程中与质检部门合作Negotiate trading terms with suppliers 与供应商谈判贸易条件Manage in season issues, disputes and opportunities 在销售季内寻找新的机遇,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,28,Support marketing proposition支持市场营销的工作,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,29,Profile of a Buyer 买手的工作内容,Support marketing proposition 协助市场营销工作Decide on marketing spend 决定市场营销所要投入的花费Propose marketing strategy to support product strategy 通过市场营销战略来支持产品战略Financial support, promotional support, retail support 财务，促销 零售上的支持Agree artistic direction for editorial or point of sale collateral (POS) 决定产品宣传方向和销售点,Merchandisers 商品企划师,The role 职能,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,31,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,32,Merchandising structure reminder 商品企划部结构,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,33,What retailers look for in a Merchandiser零售商需要什么样的商品企划师呢？,Logical numerate minds 有很强逻辑性的数学头脑 Commercial mindset 商业头脑Problem solving approach to work 在工作中解决问题的能力Strong negotiation skills 很强的沟通技巧Interest in product useful 对产品用途感兴趣Strong management skills 很强的管理技巧,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,34,Merchandiser role 商品企划师的角色,Develop financial plans 财务计划Develop planning strategies 发展经营战略Deliver balanced financial targets 财务目标Deliver balanced product plans 产品计划Deliver effective in season trading 保证销售季中的计划实施,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,35,Develop financial plans 发展财务计划,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,36,Profile of a Merchandiser 商品企划师职能,Develop financial plans 发展财务计划Review top level company strategy, financial history and market data 公司战略制定，财务历史和市场数据Identify key financial opportunities for growth 财务上发展的机遇Identify changes to structure, direction and logistics of product area 鉴别产品结构，方向和物流,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,37,Develop planning strategies 发展计划战略,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,38,Profile of a Merchandiser 商品企划师的工作内容,Develop planning strategies 发展经营战略 Develop risk contained financial parameters 发现财务参数中存在的风险Sales, margin, markdown, stock targets, stock turn, rebates 销售，利润，打折，库存目标，库存变化，回扣Incorporate changes to store portfolio in parameters 把计划中做出的调整体现到店铺内的货品上Develop range assumptions for range planning 进一步完善产品品类设置的计划Plan critical path to ensure delivery of strategy 保证战略实施的正确路径,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,39,Deliver balanced financial plans实施均衡的财务计划,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,40,Profile of a Merchandiser商品企划师的工作内容,Deliver balanced financial plans 实施均衡的财务计划Review past season performance to set base for financial plans 通过回顾上一年的销售表现 来制定财务计划的基础Agree growth plans including like for like (LFL) plans 做出未来发展的计划，例如执行去年同样的销售方式Develop store sales plans and store grading structure 发展店铺销售计划和店铺分级结构Develop gross profit plans 毛利润的计划Markdown, shrinkage, rebates, margin, phasing 打折，货品流失，回扣，利润差额，调整定位Develop open to buy spend (OTB) and issue to Buyer 为买手制定出可用于购买的总金额,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,41,Deliver balanced product plans实施均衡的产品计划,Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day,42,Profile of a Merchandiser商品企划师的工作内容,Deliver balanced product plans 实施均衡的产品计划Complete range planning process based on financial plans 根据财务计划，完成产品品类设置的计划Ensure range plans reflect initial range assumptions 要保证品类设置是