服装验货作业指导书（英文11页）.doc

An ISO 9001:2000 Registered FirmGARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES1.0 PURPOSE1.1To describe the standard procedures for garment inspections for *.2.0 APPLICATION2.1Applies to all garment inspections conducted for *.3.0 PRE-INSPECTION3.1 * will provide to STR, authorization to conduct specific inspections by sending to STR either (1) a listing of production orders (POs)/styles/SKUs to inspect, (2) a specific inspection request form, or (3) other appropriate written authorization.3.1.1 * will indicate, on the garment inspection request form, changes to the inspection procedure, which apply to a particular inspection assignment. This will be done by writing “EXCEPTION” in the comments section of the inspection request form, and identifying the specific change and/or instruction.3.1.2The inspection request will specify the types of inspections (in-line, final) to be conducted for a particular production order or shipment. 3.2 * will provide to STR-US, a defect criteria list to be used by the inspector during the inspection.3.3 * will provide to STR-US, measurement specifications with points of measurement, tolerances, a how to measure guide and any technical information associated with the construction, trims, labeling, ticketing, packing, etc. of the item/s being inspected.3.4 * will provide to STR-US approval samples for the inspector/s to use as reference for style/construction/color/etc.3.4.1 If/when approval samples are sent directly to the factory, the STR Regional Coordinator will confirm with the factory, prior to the date of the inspection, that the approval sample package has been received and who will give it to the inspector.4.0 CONFIRMATION4.1 The STR Regional Coordination Center must provide confirmation of receipt of inspection information, inspection dates, and all related inspection processes, via e-mail or fax, to STR-USand *.5.0 SCHEDULING5.1 Scheduling of in-line and final inspections must be consistent with logic and reasonable production capabilities. Thus, a final inspection must not be scheduled nor conducted the day following the in-line inspection unless the total production quantity is so small it is reasonable that an in-line inspection can be conducted one day and then a full final inspection of completed product can be conducted the next day.5.2 The factory will supply to the STR Regional Coordination Center, the production status including PO, style, and quantities available. The factory will schedule the in-line and final inspection dates based on this information. Note, STR will coordinate the inspection scheduling with the factory, but the authorization/request to conduct the inspection shall come from *.5.3 The STR Regional Coordination Center and factory agree on an inspection date. 5.4STR Regional Coordination Center assigns the inspection to an STR inspector who conducts the inspection according to the requirements set by * and communicated to STR.5.5 STR will not accept instructions nor modifications to the */STR procedures without written authorization from the client.6.0 IN-LINE INSPECTION6.1 The following in-line inspection procedures are to be used in conjunction with the final inspection procedures outlined in Section 7.0 below.6.2 The purpose of an in-line inspection is to help a new factory, the vendor and the client to identify potential problems early enough in the manufacturing process that they can be fixed and the quality of the product improved.6.3 The in-line inspection shall be conducted on finished garments when the production stage is at least 20% complete and have been through the factorys own QC. Garments are not required to be packed. 6.4 Results of this inspection are discussed, in detail, with the factory management so that the factory can develop, and present to *, corrective action / preventative action plans that address any deficiencies found. Note: The STR inspector cannot give opinion or advice regarding how to correct defects.7.0 FINAL INSPECTION7.1 The final inspection shall be conducted on finished garments when the production stage is 100% complete. Garments are required to be 100% packed, unless otherwise noted by *.7.2 STR will inspect each * style individually and treat each as an individual lot for random statistical sampling purposes. However, each style (lot) can include various colors and size ranges and also multiple shipping destinations. These will be combined within one report.7.3The inspections are to be conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4-2003, Normal Inspection, General Level II. The AQL is 0 for Critical defects, 4.0 for Major defects and 4.0 for Minor defects. This requirement may only be changed, in writing, from the client to STR, and the written instruction must specify the orders where the change will be applied.Lot or Batch SizeSample SizeAC / RE26 to 5081 / 251 to 90131 / 291 to 150202 / 3151 to 280323 / 4281 to 500505 / 6501 to 1200807 / 81201 to 320012510 / 113201 to 10,00020014 / 1510,001 to 35,00031521 / 2235,001 to 150,00031521 / 22150,001 to 500,00031521 / 22500,001 and over31521 / 227.3.1Examples for sampling:7.3.1.1 Inspection of the sampled garments is explained as follows: Based on experience, a plain, simple garment such as a tee shirt or a skirt, without special trims or decorations, will take a minimum of 2 minutes to inspect.Inspecting a 200 piece sampling using 2 minutes per garment will incorporate but is not limited to the quality check, measurements, color matching and recording of discrepancies. Based on the above information, 200 garments x 2 minutes each = 400 minutes / 60 minutes per hour = 7 hours. The remaining time will consist of inspection set-up, sample selection, reporting and communications with factory representatives.7.3.1.2 Items sold as a set (2 pc set, 3 pc set) must be viewed as individual items. Each item within the set requires its own inspection and therefore increases the sampling. For example, a sampling of 200 pieces, for a 2 piece set, will be viewed as a 400 piece sampling and will require 2 mandays (in most cases) to complete. 7.3.1.3 More complex garments such as coats, dresses, tailored garments, etc. will require additional inspection time. Therefore, the number of mandays required to complete a 200 piece sampling is be subject to increase to more than one manday.7.3.1.4 Vendors / Factories must allow adequate timing when scheduling inspections to allow for proper sampling and inspecting to be performed.7.3.2 Critical Defect: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the customer or end user. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a shipment.Major Defect: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance including fit or customer satisfaction, to a degree that would provide a discerning customer with justification of non-purchase, a return or complaint.Minor Defect: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major, and that would not provide a discerning customer with justification for non-purchase, a return or complaint.7.3.3 A critical defect will automatically render the inspection as rejected.7.4 The inspector shall observe the inspection location. The inspection area must be adequatelylighted. If the inspector feels the lighting is not sufficient, first request better accommodations. If none are available, the inspection shall proceed as scheduled, however, a comment shall be written on page one of the report stating that the inspection was conducted under less than optimum lighting. If the lighting is very bad so that it prohibits vision, then the report shall be marked as not ready.7.5Before starting the final inspection, the STR inspector must receive a full and complete inventorylist of all carton numbers in the shipment that are complete and ready for inspection. A copy of this carton inventory shall be attached to the inspection report. Only cartons shown on the carton inventory are to be inspected. The inspector shall perform the random sampling from only the cartons shown on the carton inventory. 7.5.1 The inspector shall record in the comments section on the report, the identification numbers of the cartons that are randomly selected for inspection.7.5.2 If a carton inventory list is not available, the inspector must select a good randomsample. Cartons must be chosen randomly from all available cartons, not just cartons that are conveniently accessible.7.5.3 The inspector shall stamp each inspected carton with their individual STR chop. Each carton must be chopped on all four sides.7.6 Unless arriving much earlier than scheduled, an inspector should never wait more than 2 hours for any inspection. If after waiting 2 hours, if the goods are not ready for inspection, the inspection must be rendered Not Ready. The factory will be required to reschedule the inspection.7.7Garments must be inspected for workmanship and construction defects. 7.7.1 Inspectors must thoroughly check seams for stitching defects including pocket pouches, plackets should be even side to side, inseam lengths must be even at snap areas. Garments must fully be turned inside out and seams and stitching must be checked thoroughly for broken/missed stitches, sloppy stitching, notched fabric under stitching and any other fabric or stitching defects that could be found on the outside of a garment.7.7.2Inspector shall pull on buttons, snaps, etc. to make certain they are securely attached (see critical defects).7.7.3 Buttons, snaps, zippers, Velcro, etc. must be checked by the inspector to verify they work/function properly.7.7.4Embroidered areas must be checked for untrimmed threads. If excessive threads or non-woven backing are found, this must be noted in the comments.7.7.5 All button and button hole sewing must be lock stitched to prevent sewing threads unraveling and resulting in buttons dropping off or fraying of buttonholes.7.7.6 Inspectors shall check for pocket placement, shape and evenness of pockets. They should be consistent in shape, size and placement garment to garment as well as side to side on the same garment. Defective pockets include: distorted in shape, placed hi-low to each other, placed crooked or at differing angles, inconsistent in size, shape or placement garment to garment, etc.7.7.7 Labeling information should be checked against the information provided by *. If a label is missing, wording is misspelled or wording is not readable, this is considered a major defect. Labeling shall be checked on all measured garments.7.7.8 Shading variation within a garment or garment to garment is not acceptable. If shading is observed, the inspection shall be placed on hold and the quantity and range of shades must be reported in the comments section of the report.7.7.9 Garments taken from the first carton must be compared to the next carton, etc. to insure that color, appearance, overall size, hand/feel, etc. are the same.7.850% RULE: If an inspection passes, but one defect type is equal to 50% or more of the allowable defects, the inspection must be placed on hold pending the clients decision. State in the comments section on the report that the reason for the inspection being placed on hold is due to the 50% defect rule and include a description of the defect type found. Multiple defects must also be considered when determining if the 50% rule applies (in the example below, some of the 11 holes may have been part of multiple defects).Example:AQL = AC: 21 RE: 22Inspection results: 18 major defects11 of the 18 defects are holes (11 is greater than 50% of the allowable defects “21”)Action: Inspection is placed on hold because 11 defects are greater than 50% of the 21 major defects allowed.7.9Inspector must identify all defects by applying a piece of colored tape or appropriate marker on the garment, near the defect.7.10 If inspection is Rejected, the inspector shall put ALL defective garments into a box/carton. The box must be sealed, on all seams, with STR tape. The sealed box/s must be left at the factory. If the vendor/factory disagree with the defects, they shall forward this box/s to *. Upon arrival at *, the STR tape must be received in tact. If the STR tape has been removed or tampered with, the defect samples within the box will be rendered invalid by *.7.11Digital photos, representing each defect type (worst representation) shall be provided with each inspection report.8.0 DEFECT LABELING8.1 ALL DEFECTS ON A GARMENT MUST BE TAGGED. IF THERE IS MORE THAN ONE DEFECT ON A SINGLE GARMENT, THIS IS CONSIDERED A MULTIPLE DEFECT AND SHOULD BE LISTED AS A MULTIPLE DEFECT ON THE REPORT. The garment is only counted as defective once. 8.2 Inspector must be consistent when using terms to describe defects. 8.3 Defects must be marked with colored tape. 8.4 Each defective garment must have an orange, self-adhesive sticker attached with defect(s) circled on the tag. The sticker must be on the garment, not on a plastic bag. The garment information only has to be completed on the garments sent to the client. The garments remaining with the factory only need the report tracking number and date, in addition to the defects circled on the orange tag. The defects marked with colored tape and major or minor circled on the garments (this can be accomplished by attaching a defect sticker to every defective garment as it is inspected, circling the defect and circle “major” or “minor” on the sticker).8.5 Defect Identification The inspector must make certain that all information on the defect sticker or card sent with a defect sample is labeled identically to the information on the report.9.0 MEASUREMENTS9.1 * will supply measurement specifications to STR for each inspection assignment. A *approved measurement guide (how to measure), for each assignment, must also be provided toSTR-US for forwarding to the STR Regional Coordination Center and the inspector. 9.2 Measurements are to be checked on 10% of the sample size but a minimum of 2 garments per size. 9.3 All measured garments must also be inspected for quality defects. 9.3.1 If one garment has a quality defect and a measurement defect, this is to be listed on the report as a multiple defect. Indicate on the measurement chart which measured garment also had the quality defect.9.4 If a measurement is within tolerance, place a check mark () in the space. If the measurement is out of tolerance, the difference will be reported as +/- from the spec (not from the tolerance).9.4.1 If an out of tolerance measurement jumps a grade (equal to, larger or smaller than the next size) the measurement is a major defect. For example: Measurement point for size small is 10” +/- ”; Size medium is 10.5” +/- ”. The actual measurement of the medium is 10”. The measurement taken on the size medium garment is equal to the measurement point of the size small garment and is therefore a major defect.9.4.2 A measurement is a minor defect if it is out of tolerance but does not jump a grade. Any exceptions to this will be noted by * on the garment inspection request form. 9.4.3 * must provide tolerances and identify any measurements that are of particular concern. The STR inspector will be required to pay particular attention to that concern and provide specific comment on the report describing the findings regarding that concern.10.0 REPORTING10.1 Upon completion of the inspection, the report and inspection findings must be reviewed with anauthorized factory representative. Every defect must be shown to the factory representative.10.1.1 Following the review of the report and inspection findings, the factory representative will be asked to sign the inspectors draft copy of the report. If the representative refuses to sign, print the persons name on the report and state that he/she refused to sign.10.2 The inspector shall fax the report to the inspection coordinator at their STR regional coordination center.10.2.1 The STR regional inspection coordinator shall review the report for accuracy and correct content and then forward it to the appropriate U.S. project/program coordinator within one business day after the inspection is completed.10.2.2The U.S. project/program coordinator will forward the report to the client.11.0 DEFECT CLASSIFICATION11.1Common garment and fabric defects are listed and classified on Appendix B. The client must advise STR of any additions or modifications to Appendix B.11.2Inspections conducted on childrens garments must take into account, safety concerns. Therefore, any pieces including buttons, snaps or other attachments that are loose or not securely attached and can fit into the CPSC small part cylinder will be considered critical defects. NOTE: This does not ensure compliance to federal regulations.12.0 RE-INSPECTIONS12.1 Re-inspections are to be scheduled and conducted only when the shipment has been 100% sorted and reworked and 100% packed for shipment. A complete inventory list of carton numbers shall be provided in advance of the re-inspection.12.2 10% RE-INSP