维多利亚时期贵族服饰(Victorian Fashion.ppt

Victoriaeraclothing,TheVictoriaEraIntroductionofwomensclothingIntroductionofmensclothing,VictorianClothing,TheVictorianeraoftheBritishHistorywastheperiodofQueenVictoriaserareignfrom20June1837untilherdeathon22January1901.Itwasalongperiodofpeace,prosperity,refinedsensibilitiesandnationalself-confidence.,VictorianClothing1855-1860,Themid-nineteenthcenturyladywasavisionofeleganceandgraceinbeautifulgownslavishlytrimmedwithfrills,flounces,lace,braid,fringeandribbons.ThefashionconsciousVictorianladycreatedthisappearancewithamysteriouscombinationoftheuncomfortableandinconvenientwiththedecorative.,WomensclothinginVictorianera,Layersofunderclothes,includingachemise,drawers,corsetandseveralpetticoats,werewornbymid-19thcenturywomen.Beforetheinventionofthe“cage”crinoline,aladywouldwearasmanyasadozenstarchedandflouncedmuslinpetticoatstosupportthefullskirtsofhereveninggown.Later,toaccommodatethegrowingwideskirts,ladiesdonnedawiredcageorhoopskirt.,The1800scrinoline,alsocalledahoopskirtorextensionskirt,wasinspiredbytheopencageorframestyle,19世紀女性服裝的体态轮廓，在50年代为半球型，60年代为直角三角型。,1825-1850这个时期两性服裝的潮流由于缝纫机的发明，还有打版书和系统的散播，这个时期不论男人和女人的服裝都变的更为复杂。,在1850-1865年间，女性服饰的轮廓变得更大和趋于水平线在过去所有的线条都是向下拉的。,女性则持续使用裙撑架，利用褶皱及蕾丝等把自己过度装饰得像个会走路的婚礼蛋糕。,1860年的crinoline如钢般坚挺，从1864年起，用三角形布拼缝起的裙子使得裙宽达到一种良好的状态。,1870年，本时期初，女子穿着臀垫bustle以达到强调臀部突出的造型。在1875年之后，女性则转而流行紧身与拖曳裙款式的造型，并强调腰部以下背后华丽的装饰。,BUSTLEsomecouldmeasurenearly11feetwide.,Shawls:,MansclothinginVictorianera,Shottingjacket,thecoatiscutintheloungejacketstyleandbuttonsupthefront.Thecollarismadetostandorfall.Flaskorpatchpocketswithaflaparestandard;theflapscanbebuttonedovertoprotectthecontents.,1868-4MensVictorianClothinggentlemensshirt,LeisureFashionsfortheEdwardianGentleman,Edwardianclothing,suitableforhorsebackriding,Edwardianclothing,suitablefortennis,Edwardianclothing,suitableforyachting,MensVictorianCoat,c.1899,Totheleftisshownamenswaterproofcoatwithadetachablecape,perfectforacoldwetLondonevening.Thecapeis24inchesdeep.Thisstylewasavailableinblackparamattacloth,brownorgreytweed,andnavyblueworstedserge.ThemensVictoriancoatshownbelowisalsowaterproofbuthasanattachedcapewithavelvetcollar.,1868-9gentlemswalkingcostume,“Thefashionablewalkingsuitisashortdouble-breastedfrockcoatmadeofdiagonallyribbedcoatingorofplaindarkcloth.Vestofthesamematerial,withbroadcollarrolledtosuittheshapeofthecoat.Grayordrabpantaloonswithdiagonalstripes,orofasolidcolorwithasidestripeofdarkershade.Pantaloonsstillfitclosely,butarecutwiderattheankle,givingthenecessarysprin