维多利亚服装

LetustakeyouonatourofwomensclothinginVictoriafashioninthe19thcentury.,Specialbonnets（软帽）,Bonnets,replacingthegreathats,changedthewholecharacterofdaydresses.,TheearlyVictoriaAge,In1835,Thelookofdemureprimgentilitywasemphasizedbythelossofthegreathatsforbonnets.,In1836Gigotsleevescollapsedabruptly.CostumebegantodevelopthesentimentalearlyVictorianlookweassociatewithQueenVictoriasearlyrule.,TheearlysentimentalVictorianlookoftenusedtodepictladiesoftheera,c1838,By1840thecollapsedsleevewasmuchnarrower,Allthebonedbodice（胸衣）seamlinesandtrimsweredirectionaltoemphasizethesmallwaists,By1845thebonedbodice（胸衣）wasevenmoreelongatedintoaVshape.ThismeantthatanearlyVictorianwomansarmmovementswererestricted.,Flounces（荷叶边）wereaddedintheearly1840stomaketheskirtsappearwider.,Beautifulflounces,Cartridgepleats(筒打褶）wereusedatfirsttodrawtheskirtfabricin1841,Cartridgepleats,Laterby1850thewordcrinolinebegantomeanthewholeofthebeehiveshapedskirt（蜂巢状裙子）.Itwasthenonlyanothersteptocallthelaterartificialorcagehoopedsupportframepetticoatsafter1856,crinolines.,TheMidVictoriaAge,FactorsAffectingtheFashionSilhouetteafter1860,sewingmachine（缝纫机）hadbeeninventedcouturedesign（服装设计）playedamoreimportantroleinclothesworldsyntheticdyes(合成染料）madeitpossibletohaveintensecolors（强烈色彩）Crinoline（裙撑）domedskirtsilhouettetowardsthegarmentback.,ClothingdesignerCharlesWorth,Hewasagreatdesigner,andhedesignedanoverskirt,whichcaughtoninEnglandafter1868.,ThenewPrincessgown,ThePrincessgownwascutinonepieceandconsistedofanumberofjoinedpanelsfittedandgoredfromshouldertohemLaterPrincessstyleswereslimmerandmuchmoreformfitting.Sleevesindaydresseswereoftenofabananashape.,Anothertopskirt_apron,Rounderwaistlineswerefashionableandevenbegantoriseveryslightly,Ballgownswithatrain,From1870,ballgownsalwayshadatrain.Soonby1873thetrainwasseenindaydress.,softpolonaisebustlestyles,By1875thesestylesbecamesoextremethesoftfullnessbegantodropdownthebackofthegarmentTrainswereveryheavilyornamented,theLateVictoriaAge,ThisfascinatingeradidntendwiththedeathofQueenVictoria.Manyhistoriansbelievethattheso-called“Victorian”endisaftertheendoftheFirstWorldWar.,ThePrincessLineSheath,ThesoftpolonaisestylebustlestyleswerereplacedbyPrincesssheathgarments,Dresswithcuirassebodice,Thecuirassebodicewascorsetlikeanddippedevendeeperbothfrontandbackextendingwelldownthehipscreatingthelookofabodyencasedinarmour.,TheNewHardBustleof1883,.Ithadminimaldraperycomparedtotheformerandaslimmermorefittedseverelytailoredprincessbodice,withamuchflatterfront.,Thesharpertailoredjacketfashiongavethemadifferentposturewithamoreconfidentairreflectingtheidealsofearlyfemaleemancipation.Thegownsofthe1880swerealmostalwaysmadeintwocoloursofmaterial,PowerDressing,Thelegofmuttonsleeves,Thelegofmuttonsleevescontinuedtodevelopandsproutedhighabovetheshoulders,By1895thesleevesswelledintoenormouspuffssimilartothoseof1833.Ashappenedin1830tobalancethehugeshoulderstheskirtwidenedandflared,whilstkeepingthewaisttightandhandspannarrow.,Needfreedom,Theleaderofthewomenliberationmovement_ClaraZetkin,Womenbegantoweartrousers,In1887,SmithAstorfromtheUKworetrousersanddeclared:”Pantsarenotonlycomfortable,healthy,butdignified.”,Victoriascostumehadnotonlychangedthedevelopmentofcostumeartsandtheprogressofthesociety,butalsoimprovedthestatusofwomen.Inourview,Victoriancostumesarebeautifulandluxuriant.Itsthenoblesymbol.But,whenwomenatthattimeworethebreathlessgarmentandtheheavybustle,whocanunderstandtheirpain?Thatwasboundunderthebeautifulappearanceistheirsoul.,Whentheskirtrobereplacedbytrousers,womensstatushadundergoneearth-shakingchanges.Notonlyweretheyfreedfromtheshacklesofsocialconventions,butalsoclothingartswaspushedtoanotherpeak.,荷叶边lotusleaf,立领collar,multi-layeredcakecutting（多层次蛋糕裁剪),Victoriancostumefeatures,Victorianstylearefrom1837to1901,duringthereignofQueen.IntheconservativeVictorianera,theneedforpureculture,womenmustputtheirtightlywrapped,highwaist（高腰),wrinkle(褶皱,legofmuttonsleeves（羊腿袖）,蝴蝶结bows,Corset（紧身褡）,womenwithhighsocialstatuswouldwearcorsets,whichdragstothegroundwithalongskirt,andfastensthewaist.Wearingthistight-fittingsuitseemselegance.,ClothesinVictorianPeriodbowlerhat（“波乐帽”)Tailcoat(燕尾服）Scottishkilt(基尔特）BritishStyle(英伦风）,PartonetypicalclothesinGreatBritain,bowlerhat（“波乐帽”）,ThemostprominentofEnglandnationaldressistheEnglishgentlemansbowlerhat.Thebowlerhat,alsoknownasacokehat,isahardfelthatwitharoundedcrownoriginallycreatedin1849。Traditionally,theBritishnobility,distinguishedcelebritieshavetowearthishat.Today,inthestreetsofmajorcities,suchhatshavebeenrare,butnotdisappeared.,tailcoat(燕尾服),TailcoatsoriginatedintheUnitedKingdom,inthe18thcentury,evolvedfromthecavalryservice.Thehistoricalreasonthatcoatswerecutthiswaywastomakeiteasierforthewearertorideahorse.Butit