针织完全教程_I

CircularKnittedFabrics,OIQualityTrainingCourse,ContentsCircularKnittedFabricsA.FabricsMadewithaSingleSetofNeedles(SingleKnits)i.SingleJersey-SingleJerseywithElastane-Pique-Lacoste-BabyFrenchTerry-JacquardiiTerryiii.FrenchTerryB.FabricsMadeonTwoNeedleBeds(DoubleKnits)i.Interlockii.DoubledKnittedFabricsiii.DoubleKnitted-JacquardivRib,ShaftWeaving:Schematic梭(平)织法简图,Warping,CircularKnittingMachine大筒圆编針织机,CircularKnittingMachine大筒圆编針织机,弹力单面布SingleJerseywithElastane,单面四角网眼布Piqu,单面六角网眼布Lacoste,单面四段鱼鳞布BabyFrenchTerry,单面布提花Jacquard,毛巾刷毛布TerryBrush,蚂蚁刷毛BucklyFleece,毛巾提花布TerryJacquard,双面刷毛PolarFleece(bothsidebrushed,combedmayladder.(呈梯状)Knittingneedlescanworksequentiallyoralltogether.(所有的针可按顺序或同时进行编织),Characteristics特性Requiresafullwarpsheet.(需要整片经面)Theloop-formingyarnsarefedinthedirectionofthelengthofthefabric.(直向织法)Cannotbeunravelled,usuallydoesnotladder.(不会脱散,不呈梯状)Knittingneedlesalwaysworktogetherasaunit.(所有的针同时进行编织),纬编,经编,针织布,Production,一根纱在纬向的每一根针上成圈SequentialloopformationonaflatmachineSequentialneedles:Machinescanbeflatorcircular.Needlesareusuallyofthelatchtype.(机台可分平编和圆编),一根纱在经向相邻的几根针上成圈LoopformationonawarpknittingmachineWarpknitting:Warpknittingusesoneormorewarpsheets.Eachyarnisloopedaroundaneedleandtheneedlesareallmovedtogether.(每一支纱在一根针上成圈,所有的针同时进行工作),WeftKnittedFabrics,WarpKnittedFabrics,纬编,经编,LatchNeedles,NeedlesandSinkerforSingleKnittingMachine单面针织机之针和沉降片,NeedlesforDoubleKnittingMachine双面针织机之针,单面针织机SingleKnittingMachine,双面针织机DoubleKnittingMachine,中间空心,中间实心,Singlebothlegslyingeitherunderorovertheheadoftheprecedingloop.Theupperpairmayintermeshintheoppositesensetothelowerpair,dependingontheconstruction.,Loopcharacteristics,網狀交織結合點,FaceandBackofKnittedLoops(针织布的正反面)Thelowerpairofmeshingpointsdeterminewhethertheloopisafacelooporabackloop.Abackloop,isformedwhentheloopisdrawnthroughthepreviousloopinadirectionawayfromtheviewer:thelegsofthelooplieundertheheadoftheprecedingloop.Afaceloop,isformedwhentheloopisdrawnthroughthepreviousloopinadirectiontowardstheviewer:thelegsofthelooplieovertheheadoftheprecedingloop.,Backloop反面成圈,Faceloop正面成柱,圈Head,柱Leg,CoursesandWales纬向和经向Acourseisarowofloopsproducedbyadjacentneedlesduringthesameknittingcycle.Awaleisacolumnofloopsproducedbythesameneedleonsuccessiveknittingcycles.,Acourse纬向,Awale经向,BasicConstructionofCircularKnittedFabrics针织布的基本组织,1.Knit成圈2.Tuck集圈*,3.Miss(Float)不成圈,如網眼布Piqu,如提花布Jacquard,*吃紗不成圈謂之集圈.一次不脫圈稱為一次集圈,二次不脫圈稱為二次集圈,鉤中會出現三根紗,一根為底紗,加上二次集圈,等於有三根紗.,如單面針織布SingleJersey,TuckandFloat(Miss)LoopsAtuckstitchcomprisesaheldloopandatuckloop,bothintermeshedinthesamecourse.(由成圈與集圈組成)Heldloop:alooppulledthroughtheloopofthepreviouscourseandretainedbytheneedleoveroneormorecourses.(成圈)Tuckloop:alengthofyarnreceivedbyaneedlebutnotpulledthroughtheloopofthepreviouscourse.(一根紗在針上吃紗但不成圈,掛在下一路的線圈上)Float(miss)loop:alengthofyarnnotreceivedbyaneedleandconnectingtwoloopsofthesamecoursethatarenotinadjacentwale.(一根紗不與緊鄰的縱向紗圈相結合,而跳開與同排近鄰的紗圈相結合.),Atuckstitch,Afloat(ormiss)loop,Atuckloop,集圈,不成圈,LoopFormation,起针挺针退圈垫纱/弯纱脱圈/成圈,LatchNeedles,Needlestartstoascend,Needleascends&crosseshorizontaledgeofthemachine,Loopdescends,Yarnisfedontoneedle,thenlatchclosesandneedledescends,Loopisthereforeformed,Plain,SingleJerseyThisstructureismadewithonlyasinglesetofneedles.Itiscalledsingleface,plainorsinglejersey.(Jerseyisageneralnameforknittedfabrics.Itisnotrestrictedtoanyparticularstructure.(单面针织布是由一套针织成的)Thetwosidesofthefabrichaveadifferentappearance.Onesideshowsonlyfaceloops,theothersideonlybackloops.(正面呈现柱状,反面呈现弧圈)Ithasrelativelylowextensibilityinthewidthandtendstocurlattheedges.(单面针织布的横向延展性不大,布边趋向卷曲),Plain,face,back,production,Cross-tuck(Piqu)交叉集圈Piqu-stylereliefpatterningcanbemadeonsingleordoublejerseybasestructures.Thesinglejerseybaseismorecommonbecauseitislighterweight.Thepatternisformedbyalternatingplainandtuckloopswithinonecourseandbetweenonecourseandanother.(Piqu布可用单針機或双針機织出,为求纺织品重量轻.一般多织成单面布.在纬向中可集圈与成圈交替出现.雙面布的piqu較單面布的piqu柔軟),Cross-tuck(pique),face,back,Inlay(Loopback)-BabyFrenchTerry镶嵌结构Anextra(inlay)yarnisfloatedonthetechnicalback,tuckingatregularintervals.Usuallytheinlayyarnismuchcoarserthanthegroundyarn.Thesefabricshaveafinefaceandabulkyloopedbackwhichisoftenbrushedorraised.(多一根粗纱镶嵌在织物的反面,可达到正面组织平滑,反面组织粗糙.镶嵌的纱可悬弧在表面或可经刷毛加工,提高了织物的厚度和保暖性.),Inlayorloopback,schematic,Inlayorloopback,face,back,Jacquard提花布Whenacolorisnotrequiredontheface,theyarnfloatsonthebackofthefabric.Awiderangeofdesignscanbecreated.Thefabricisnotveryextensible,becauseofthelargenumberoffloats.Applicationsincludefashionpulloversandwaistcoats.(当色纱不希望在提花布的正面呈现时,可隐藏浮出在反面.其设计可多样化,织纹不具好的延展性,因为反面被浮出的色纱勾缠住),Jacquard,schematic,Jacquard,back,Jacquard,face,PlushorTerry毛巾布Plushorknittedterryfabricismadebyincluding(plating)anextrayarnwhichismadetoformextendedsinkerloops.Theplatedyarncanbeknittedateveryneedleoronselectedneedlestoformapattern.(毛巾布是多加一根纱织出的,在反面造成圈状的效果,可在每一根针上成圈,也可在选择的针上成圈,造成不同的效果)Cutplush,orknittedvelourismadebycuttingtheplatedyarnloops.Thefabricsurfacethenresemblesvelvet(velour).(成圈后可剪断而成天鹅绒织品),Plushorterry,schematic反面形成毛圈,Plushorterry,Cutplush(velour)毛圈被切断謂之天鵝絨,毛圈不被切斷謂之毛巾布,正包毛巾布ReversePlaitingTerry,反包毛巾布Velour(天鹅绒),面Face,底Back,线圈Loop,面Face,底Back,线圈Loop,面与底的线圈纱种相同(不剪线圈)Yarnsoffaceandbackaresame,loopwontbecut,面与底的线圈纱种不同,底的线圈剪后,面的组织不受影响Differentyarnsbetweenfaceandback,loopwillbecutsothatthestructureoffacewontbeaffected,TwoTypesofTerryFabrics,RibFabric罗纹布Ribfabricsaremadeontwoneedlebedswiththeneedlesinastaggeredformation.Theloopsaredrawninoppositedirectionssothatfaceandbackloopsalternateineachcourse.Bothsidesofthefabricshowonlythefaceloops.Thebackloopsareexposedonlywhenthefabricisextendedinthewidthdirection.Ribfabricsareveryextensibleinthewidth.Applicationsincludepullovers,waistcoats,underwear,socks.(罗纹布是由两套针交叉织出的,它們的圈形成上下交叉排列,两面都呈现柱状,反面弧圈只有在拉开横向才会出现,罗纹布在横向延展性佳.),Ribfabric,production,2x2Rib,BroadRibs罗纹Awiderangeofribfabricscanbeproduced,dependingontheset-outoftheneedles.Themostpopularis2x2ribwhichismadebytakingeverythirdneedleoutofactionineachneedlebed.(罗纹的种类千变万化,最普遍的是2上2下罗纹,每隔两针变化一次)Thetwosidesofthe2x2ribfabriclookthesame.Ifthefabricisstretchedinthewidth,thetworibloopsareexposedbetweenthetwofaceloops.Itisveryelasticinthewidthdirection.(2上2下罗纹正反两面看起来一样,在横向具有非常好的伸展性),2x2rib,Interlock棉毛布(双罗纹组织)Interlockismadeontwoneedlebedsinwhichtheneedlesaredirectlyopposedanworkalternately.(棉毛布是由两套针织出来的,正反各一套罗纹组织在中间被锁住)Ittakestwocoursestomakeonerowofloopsonthefaceandback.Bothsideshowonlyfaceloopsandlookidentical.Thefabricisextensible,butnotveryelastic.(棉毛布正反两面都呈现相同的柱状,织纹具有延展性但缺乏很好的弹性),Interlock,production,DoublePiqu双面组织Piqu布Doublepiquismadeonribmachinesbyaselectionofknittedloopsandfloats.Thefloatsgreatlyreducethewidthextensibility.(罗纹机可以织出双面组织piqu布,因为用float的织法,所以大大减少了织品本身横向的延展性.雙面布的piqu較單面布的piqu柔軟),Doublepiqu,face,back,RibJacquard罗纹提花Indoublejerseyjacquardmachines,theneedlesinthetwoneedlebeds(cylinderanddial)canbeselectedeithertoknitormiss.(运用双针织提花机,可以选用成圈或不成圈两种织法而成.),Jacquard,face,back,BasicCharacteristics&ApplicationsofWovenFabrics梭(平)织布的基本特性与应用,BasicCharacteristics&ApplicationsofWeftKnits纬编针织布的基本特性与应用,BasicCharacteristics&ApplicationsofWarpKnits经编针织布的基本特性与应用,弹力单面布SingleJerseywithElastane,单面四角网眼布Piqu,单面六角网眼布Lacoste,单面四段鱼鳞布BabyFrenchTerry,单面布提花Jacquard,毛巾刷毛布TerryBrush,蚂蚁刷毛BucklyFleece,毛巾提花布TerryJacquard,双面刷毛PolarFleece(bothsidebrushed,combed&sheared),单刷单摇Onesidebrushed,combed,sheared&anti-pilling,双刷单摇Bothsidebrushed,combed,shearedbutonlyonesideanti-pilling,双刷双摇Bothsidebrushed,combed,sheared&anti-pilling,斜纹毛圈布TwillFrenchTerry,交叉毛圈布CrossFrenchTerry(MiniFrenchTerry),拉毛布Fleece,棉毛布(双罗纹组织)Interlock,双面布提花DoubleKnitted-Jacquard,双面布网眼DoubleKnitted-Piqu,健康布(棉盖涤,吸湿快干)HealthyFabric,猪皮布PigSkin,双面纱卡布Sucker,法式罗纹布FrenchRib,罗纹Rib11,罗纹Rib22,花式罗纹FancyRib(如11+22),提花罗纹(如用结构来提花)RibJacquard,移圈罗纹RibPointelle,弹力单面布SingleJerseywithElastane,单面四角网眼布Piqu,单面六角网眼布Lacoste,单面四段鱼鳞布BabyFrenchTerry,单面布提花Jacquard,毛巾刷毛布TerryBrush,蚂蚁刷毛BucklyFleece,毛巾提花布TerryJacquard,双面刷毛PolarFleece(bothsidebrushed,combed&sheared),单刷单摇Onesidebrushed,combed,sheared&anti-pilling,双刷单摇Bothsidebrushed,combed,shearedbutonlyonesideanti-pilling,双刷双摇Bothsidebrushed,combed,sheared&anti-pilling,斜纹毛圈布TwillFrenchTerry,拉毛布Fleece,棉毛布(双罗纹组织)Interlock,双面布提花DoubleKnitted-Jacquard,双面布网眼DoubleKnitted-Piqu,健康布(棉盖涤,吸湿快干)HealthyFabric,猪皮布PigSkin,双面纱卡布Sucker,法式罗纹布FrenchRib,罗纹Rib11,罗纹Rib22,花式罗纹FancyRib(如11+22),提花罗纹(如用结构来提花)RibJacquard,移圈罗纹RibPointelle,交叉毛圈布CrossFrenchTerry(MiniFrenchTerry),Whenplacinganorder,thefollowingmustbedefined:(谈判订单时,以下几点需要详细说明:)1.Composition成份Buyingoffice&Supplier/Factory.2.FabricWeight克重(gm/m)Bu