奢侈品工业中的采购管理：组织和活动外文翻译（可编辑）

1、奢侈品工业中的采购管理：组织和活动外文翻译 外文翻译原文Purchasing management in the luxury industry:organization and practicesMaterial Source: Springer LinkAuthor: Davide Luzzini&Stefano Ronchi Abstract Traditional supply chain models were developed mainly for non-luxury companies and find very little correspondence in the fi

2、eld of luxury, which is considered here as a business super-area including heterogeneous enterprises, belonging to different sectors, which have in common customers characterized by the “need for luxury”.The objective of this paper is to investigate, through a multiple case-study research, peculiar

3、purchasing and supply management practices put in place by luxury firms and to provide a classification of the most recurring approaches. Relevant dimensions i.e. product complexity and sale volume to classify luxury firms practices have been used: as a result, four groups of companies have been ide

4、ntified and their purchasing practices described. Keywords :Luxury ; Purchasing; Supply chain 1 The concept of luxury Luxury, before identifying a category of products, is a conceptual and symbolic dimension, which arrives today as a result of a historical evolution. The term “luxury” itself comes f

5、rom the Latin “luxus”, which means “soft or extravagant living, sumptuousness, opulence” from the Oxford Latin Dictionary in Dubois et al. 2005 or from the Latin “luxuria”, which means “excess” or “extras of life”Danziger 2005. The root “lux” light refers to the first luxury objects, which were jewe

6、llery and precious stones.Since ancient times luxury goods have been associated to wealth, exclusivity and power as well as somewhat superfluous needs. Sombarts 1913 emphasizes that a luxury good is characterized by a unique aura and the possession of such good is something uncommon, exceptional, wh

7、ich breaks the serial production of the mass market. It is an expenditure in excess of the necessary.Over time, luxury meant different things. In the ancient Greek polis luxury was considered a threat to social stability. Christianity introduced the concept of sin and luxury was synonymous of lasciv

8、iousness. Since the XVII century, a positive connotation of luxury emerges and the debate moves from a moral to a political-economical dimension Barbon 1690. Along with the birth of the middleclass during the French Revolution 1789, expensive objects are no more just inherited but can be bought. Acr

9、oss the XX century several nuances of luxury are found. For instance, growing attention is paid to the social meaning of consumptions, emphasizing the intangible, symbolic and emotional component of purchases Enzensberger 1999.At the beginning of the new millennium we are reconsidering the past. If,

10、 on one hand, the immaterial, symbolic and emotional component maintains its relevance, on the other hand new attention is paid to the purchase of exclusive and expensive objects for the purpose of ostentation. In the contemporary consumerist society the individual identity is determined by being a

11、consumer, capable of variable, fragmented and unconventional decisions Lipovetsky and Roux 2003. It is limitative, therefore, to associate the purchase of luxury goods only to the wealthy class. Rather,the luxury phenomenon is characterized by more articulated buying behaviors Fabris 2003; Codeluppi

12、 2000. As a result, several definitions of luxury may be proposed.It does not necessarily identify a category of products,but a conceptual dimension tied to cultural variable and values characterizing a society in a particular moment in time. Luxury satisfies a general need, transversal to different

13、 market segments and object of psychometric and social studies in order to discover its origin and implications.Within the business context, we can define a super-area composed by firms offering different products or services but targeting customers with the same need for luxury. High personal incom

14、e is one of the main distinctive characteristics of luxury consumers: the upper class is more likely to buy complementary goods in order to improve its status and lifestyle. A study by Merrill Lynch and Capgemini World Wealth Report 2006 shows that this segment of population is ever growing. Big ric

15、hes or high net worth customers /.ple with a personal patrimony greater than 1 million $are 8.7 millions with a +6.5% trend and they account for a total “treasure” of 33 trillion dollars with +8.5% growth data are referred to 2005. The growth trend varies with geographies: it is 1.7%, in Italy, 4.5%

16、 Europe, 6.9% in North-America, +7.3% in Asia-Pacific, +9.7% in Latin America, +9.8% in Middle-East.Egon Zhender International April 2006 evaluates the luxury industry in 2006 as a $170 billion business worldwide,with sales growing by 6% per year Kwak and Yoffie 2001. Certainly, the adverse economic

17、 cycle of the last year is now slowing down the pace of growth. Bain & Companys Luxury Market Update: 2012 commissioned by Altagamma studied 220 luxury brands of different sectors serving high net worth customers. The global luxury industry?which grew steadily for the last 15 years?contracted by 10%

18、 in the first two quarters of 2009 to 53 billions i.e. $215 billions, compared to 70 billions$238 billions in the first two quarters of 2008. However,rather than reflecting a permanent change, spending is expected to pick up again in 2011, with a full recovery in 2012. The Luxury Goods Worldwide Mar

19、ket study also forecasts that “absolute” luxury brands such as Hermes and Loro Piana will be less affected than more accessible brands. An injection of optimisms grounds on the surge in spending on luxury goods by high net worth individuals over the next 5 years, ranging between +20% and +35% in eme

20、rging markets, including Brazil, Russia, China and India, coupled with the strength of several worldwide trends such as increasing personal wealth in all markets, growth expectations in global GDP and increasing tourist flows.Furthermore, markets are polarizing, with growth concentrated both at the

21、lower-priced and at the high-end,especially considering fashion-sensitive businesses. As a consequence, the luxury segment represents a very attractive way to expand a brand and build a sustainable business for the future Danziger 2005. Nevertheless, competition in the luxury industry is a fairly st

22、range affair. Previous considerations demonstrate that all luxury firms are, though to different extents,competing among each other. Delivering premium quality products is not enough, for the competition does not take place within the industries but within the overall luxury super-area. This also ex

23、plains the emphasis on brand promotion rather than on the product and, therefore, the abundance of studies coming from marketing research. According to a contingency perspective, in order to comprehend what drives the business strategy in this rather heterogeneous context, the literature suggests to

24、 start from the identification of critical success factors CSFs, also referred to as competitive priorities Stonebraker and Afifi 2004; Schnetzler et al. 2007. Drawing on marketing research, Caniato et al. 2008 identify CSF that specifically characterize the luxury segment. They include: premium qua

25、lity; heritage of craftsmanship; exclusivity; marketing of emotional appeal and excellence; brand reputation; recognizable style and design; country of origin; uniqueness;superior technical performance; creation of a lifestyle. The importance of these factors change according to the type of product,

26、 channel, brand or consumer. Brun and Castelli2008 for instance, isolate the prevailing CSF within the luxury fashion retail. Depending on its characterizing factors a luxury product/brand can be considered a technical luxury or an emotional luxury Reddy and Terblanche 2005; Brun et al. 2008.In summ

27、ary, we use the term to identify a business super-area, including heterogeneous companies, belonging to different sectors, which have in common customers with the same “need for luxury”. The dynamics governing the market of luxury goods are strongly different from those characterizing non-luxury goo

28、ds, especially in terms of the emotional and symbolic dimension as buying motivation.Assuming that competition in the luxury industry is dominated by factors such as quality, brand and exclusivity,it is necessary to study management practices put in place to secure these factors and to pursue market

29、 leadership. 2.Supply chain management in the luxury industry Literature contributions regarding supply chain managementSCM are abundant. Managerial literature in particular uses the term “supply chain” with different meanings Harland 1996; Croom et al. 2000. For our purpose we refer to the Supply C

30、hain Council 2006 definition and the corresponding well-known SCOR model, which consider the supply chain as everything that allows to deliver a product or a service along an ideal axis spanning from the suppliers supplier to the customers customer. Such concept can be extended by the idea of “suppl

31、y network”Harland 1996, which is commonly represented by a focal firm in charge of realizing the end product encompassed by a sourcing and a distribution network that are made of several level Lambert et al. 1998. The way a supply network is managed depends on the characteristics of supply chains it

32、 is made of, which in turn depend on the type of product Christopher et al. 2004; Priest 2005, channel Burt and Sparks 2002 and brand Bridson and Evans 2004. Several definitions of supply chain management have been provided: CSCMP /0. and Fearon 1997; Monczka et al. 2005; Van Weele 2002. Each one em

33、phasizes the need for sourcing, production and distribution alignment Christopher 1998; Harrison and Van Hoek 2002. This requires to consider a variety of inter- and intra-firm processes as constituent of SCM Lambert and Cooper 2000. Quite soon, SCM emerged as a possible source of competitive advant

34、age and therefore required to set a proper SCM strategy. Several authors, drawing on manufacturing studies, define SCM paradigms, such as lean and agile one Naylor et al. 1999; Stratton and Warburton 2003, which in turn suggest proper configurations of levers to manage the supply chain. For instance

35、, Fisher 1997 distinguished between functional and innovative products and, as a consequence, between a physically-efficient and marketresponsive supply chain. Lamming et al. 2000 propose to consider further product characteristics to decide about the supply chain strategy i.e. degree of innovation,

36、 uniqueness and complexity and extend the applicability of paradigms to supply networks. Other authors face the problem to identify SCM strategies consistent with firm competitive priorities, which are determined by the market critical success factors CSF. See for instance: Childerhouse et al. 2002;

37、 Christopher and Towill 2001, Lee 2002, 2004, Cigolini et al. 2004. Supply chain models found in literature are mainly applied to the mass market and find very little correspondence in the luxury sector Caniato et al. 2008. Luxury products are nor necessarily functional as cost is seldom the order-w

38、inner priority nor innovative as in some cases classic or ancient products are considered the best.Management literature has been mostly concerned with topics like brand management Roux 1995; Keller et al. 2002; Reddy and Terblanche 2005; Collange 2005, differences between mass and luxury market Rou

39、x 1994; Roux and Floch 1996 and share value Ait-Sahalia et al. 2004.Very little has been said on SCM within the luxury industry, even though it offers interesting research cues. Catry 2003 argues that luxury firms often build their competitive advantage over rarity and consequent brand exclusivity.

40、This may results in voluntary inefficiencies on the process side such as the use of manual labor instead of automated machines, purposefully long waiting lists or several clerks per customer at retail shops. In particular, a distinction between value-adding and non-value-adding inefficiencies can be

41、 considered. This clarifies that, even within the luxury sector, there is room for supply chain optimization. Narrowing down the scope of our analysis, we are particularly interested?among the different supply chain management processes?in the purchasing management side and?among the different conti

42、ngent factors?in the product characteristics. This perspective follows the approach of previous studies regarding SCM at large that investigated the relation between the type of product sold to the end market and the proper SCM strategy see, amongothers, Li and OBrien 2001. The originality of this w

43、ork is due to consideration of a particular sector i.e. the luxury industry and of a particular set of practices i.e. Purchasing and supply management. 3.Purchasing and supply managementresearch framework Among the elements composing the supply chain configuration, we chose to focus on Purchasing an

44、d Supply Management PSM. In fact, authors like Cousins 2005 or Baier et al. 2008 propose the strategic alignment between business and purchasing strategy as a determinant of better business performances, consistently with the CSF approach proposed for the luxury industry. The intuition we followed i

45、s to apply a widely agreed and tested Operations Management model to the area of purchasing and supply, in line with the work of Harland et al. 1999 and Gonzalez-Benito 2007. According to this framework, the purchasing strategy should be determined in coherence with the overall business strategy: su

46、ch link has been widely discussed in literature cf. Cousins 2005; Nollet et al. 2005; Ellram and Carr 1994. The next step requires to consider the levers used to implement a given purchasing strategy, including the role different company actors play in purchasing decisions Claycomb et al. 1999, the

47、status of the purchasing function Cousins et al. 2006, the capabilities of purchasing chief directors and managers see the constructs introduced by Tu et al. 2006 in the context of manufacturing practices and by Ogden et. al 2007 in the context of purchasing, the tools used by the purchasing functio

48、n including internal, external, collaborative and electronic tools and the way the purchasing process is structured Monczka et al. 2005. Eventually, the resulting purchasing performance and their impact on business bottom line is considered. From a contingency perspective, our work relies on the ass

49、umption that there is no best way to execute purchasing strategy: it should instead be determined by contingent factors, such as the country/countries of operation, product service characteristics, or market dynamics. As such, we intend to examine the operational levers that reflect purchasing strat

50、egy in the peculiar context of luxury firms. For this reason, we integrated the framework described previously with the extant literature on the luxury sector in order to isolate practices that are particularly critical, such as the strategic management of the suppliers portfolio, the implementation

51、 of suppliers development initiatives, the suppliers involvement into new products development, the use of long-term relationships and the attention to suppliers selection and evaluation.译文奢侈品工业中的采购管理:组织和活动 资料来源: Springer Link 作者:Davide Luzzini? Stefano Ronchi 摘要 传统的供应链模式主要应用于非奢侈型公司或者有一小部分奢侈型业务的公司,这

52、被认为是超范围企业(包括异构企业),他们从属于不同部门,具有相同“奢侈品需求”特征的客户。本文的目的是通过许多案例研究调查,分析奢侈品企业的特殊采购和供应管理,并得出最常用的分类方法。对奢侈品公司的相关分类(例如产品的复杂性和销量)已经被运用。目前,四组企业已经被确认,采购行为也已被描述出来。 关键词:奢侈品;采购;供应链 2.奢侈品行业中的供应链 关于供应链的参考文献有许许多多,尤其管理方面的资料中“供应链”有许多意思(哈兰 1996;克鲁姆等 2000)。为我所用,这里提一下供应链委员会(2006)的概念以及对应的SCOR模型,其认为供应链贯穿了层层供货商和层层消费者的一根轴线。“供应网”继续拓展了这个概念(哈兰 1996)其以掌握着实现终端产品的核心企业为代表,涵盖了数层采购以及分配网(兰伯特等 1998)供应网运作的方式有赖于供应链的组成特征,供应链的组成特征反过来依赖于产品的类型(克里斯多佛等 2004;普里斯特 2005),渠道(波特,斯巴克 2002),