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1、碧蘿芷pycnogenolâ1對皮膚的帶來的好處pycnogenolâ1 for beautyp. rohdewald1pycnogenolâ, french maritime pine bark extract, (horphag research sales ltd.)the cosmetic industry is steadily chasing after new ingredients with promising properties. pycnogenolâ, the special extract from the bark of th
2、e french maritime pine, is a good candidate to be incorporated into creams and lotions. in china, claims for pycnogenolâ had been approved that it can be used against aging and for beauty, because the documented research findings support these statements.first of all, pycnogenolâ has to be
3、 safe when applied to the skin. tests made with 17 japanese men and 23 women showed not the slightest irritation of the skin, when pycnogenolâ was applied for 24 hours under occlusion (tests made by life science laboratory, osaka). further tests demonstrated that pycnogenolâ is neither irr
4、itating for the eye, that it produces no allergic reactions and local tolerance is high even after subcutaneous application (tests had been made in switzerland by rcc research).one of the fundamental elements contributing to womens beauty is the skin. a beautiful complexation; glamorous eyes and won
5、derful hair, thats the dream of every lady and cosmetics promises to fulfill the dreams.pycnogenolâ, as a natural extract, containing many different constituents of pine bark, offers a broad range of actions, which help to improve the appearance of the skin.a very substantial contribution to sk
6、in-aging is uv-light. the highly energetic uv light induces free radical formation in the skin. this becomes visible as a sunburn. after prolonged and repeated exposure skin cancer may develop. it is well known that heavy exposure to sunlight promotes wrinkle formation and increases thickness of the
7、 skin, so it is mandatory to protect the skin effectively against free radicals.pycnogenolâ is an excellent free radical scavenger, as had been shown by chida et al. (fig. 1). it protects lipids by far more effective against peroxidation as other well-known antioxidants. as an intact lipid-barr
8、ier is essential for a healthy and pleasantly smelling skin, that preservation of the lipid barrier of the skin against free radical attack is important for skin care.pycnogenolâ absorbs to a certain extent uv-light and reduces damage of capillaries of the skin. this could be demonstrated in ex
9、periments with shaved rats (blaszo et al. 1997). capillaries of the skin are damaged by uv-light, so that plasma and water enters the tissue, causing an edema formation. leakage of plasma into the skin becomes grossly visible when a blue color is injected into the bloodstream of the rats. bright blu
10、e area of the skin signalizes damage of the capillaries because the blue color flows out of the leaky capillaries into the tissue. when rats were treated with a pycnogenolâ-containing gel, that coloration of the skin could be greatly reduced (fig. 2).another factor affecting skin health is the
11、integrity of its structural elements. collagen and elastin are the principal components of the skin. these elements are degraded not only by free radicals, but also by certain enzymes, proteases, produced by inflammatory cells. experiments made with pycnogenolâ and with two of its metabolites (
12、grimm et al. 2004) found in human blood, revealed that the destruction of elastin and collagen by proteases is inhibited by pycnogenolâ and, even more, by its active metabolites (fig. 3). pycnogenolâ not only inhibits the activity of the enzymes, it blocks also the release of these enzymes
13、 from inflammatory cells. the metabolites of pycnogenolâ inhibited the release even more effectively (grimm et al. 2004).some of the constituents of pycnogenolâ are bound to the surface of the skin, acting as a sun blocker, other compounds have been shown to penetrate through human skin an
14、d act in the underlying layers of the skin (sarikaki et al. 2004).the accelerated healing process of the skin underlines that the absorbed constituents of pycnogenolâ stimulates skin renewal. burn, treated with a pycnogenolâ-containing gel (blaszo et al. 2004), was healed the faster the mo
15、re pycnogenolâ was contained in the gel (fig. 4); the gel alone was not effective. that example shows that in deed active components of pycnogenolâ are helpful in restoring the damaged skin structures.the most impressive demonstration of the protective power of pycnogenolâ has been ma
16、de with hairless mice, which are of course totally unprotected against radiation and therefore prone to develop skin cancer. when these mice were treated after uv-radiation with a pycnogenolâ-containing gel (sime and reeve 2004), the mice developed skin cancer clearly later and to a lesser exte
17、nt as mice treated with the pycnogenolâ-free gel (fig. 5). this extreme experiment demonstrates that pycnogenolâ helps to prevent skin cancer formation even when the damage of the skin by uv light was already done. this has to be seen in context with the findings that pycnogenolâ stim
18、ulates the synthesis of antioxidative enzymes inside cells (bayeta et al. 2000) and protects dna against free radical induced damage (nelson et al. 1998).taking into consideration all these examples together, one can see that pycnogenolâ has a protective function. as a constituent in cosmetics,
19、 it is complementary to those ingredients which take care of ladies appearance by just hydrating or creaming the skin. the high affinity to the skin, its protection against free radicals and proteases and its regenerative power predestine pycnogenolâ for skin care.references:1. blaszo g, gabor
20、m and rohdewald p. antiinflammatory activities of procyanidins containing extracts from pinus pinaster ait. after oral and cutaneous application. pharmazie 52:5-7, 1997.2. grimm t, schäfer a, högger p. antioxidant activity and inhibition of matrix-metalloproteinases by metabolites of marit
21、ime pine bark extract (pycnogenol®). free rad biol med 36: 811-822, 2004.3. sarikaki v, rallis m, tanojo h, panteri i, dotsikas y, loukas yl papaioannou g, demetzos c, weber s, moini h, maibach hi and packer l. in vitro percutaneous absorption of pine bark extract (pycnogenol) in human skin. j
22、toxicology; cutaneous and ocular toxicology 23(3): 149-158, 2004.4. blazsó g, gábor m, schönlau f, rohdewald p. pycnogenol® accelerates wound healing and reduces scar formation. phytother res 18: 579-581, 2004.5. sime s, reeve ve. protection from inflammation, immunosuppression a
23、nd carcinogenesis induced by uv radiation in mice by topical pycnogenol®. photochem & photobiol 79:193-198, 2004. 6. bayeta e, benjamin ms and lau bhs. pycnogenol inhibits generation of inflammatory mediators in macrophages. nutrition research 20: 249-259, 2000.7. nelson ab, lau bhs, ide n,
24、 rong y. pycnogenol inhibits macrophage oxidative burst, lipoprotein oxidation and hydroxyl radical-induced dna damage. drug develop and ind pharmacy 24: 139-144, 1998.legends:fig. 1:lipids were exposed to an oxidative environment in presence of various antioxidants in equal amounts of 250 ng/ml. th
25、e percentage of lipids saved from oxidation by each antioxidant is shown chida et al., 1999. fig. 2:pycnogenolâ in an aqueous gel containing 5 % hydroxy-ethyl cellulose was applied to shaved and depilated rat skin (300 mg/ 15 cm2). rats were i.v. injected a blue dye (evans blue) and the skin was then exposed to uv radiation (296.7 313.1 nm). the discolouration of the depilated skin was assessed 2 h after irradiation as a measure of capillary permeability.fig. 3:mean concentrations of pycnogenolâ and its metabolites formed in the body (m1 and m2)
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