制鞋业标准流程之-裁断篇(图文并茂)

鞋子制作流程圖備面料備底料裁斷針車成型成型底組合底裁斷

CUTTING概述:裁斷部門主要任務是用相應斬刀裁出鞋子的各部件,並印刷針車/成型操作所需的對位線條,及對鞋面裝飾進行電鄉/高波/燙金/雷射處理.Summary:It’staskofcuttingdepartmenttocutouttheallcomponentsofupperwithcorrespondingcuttingdieandprintallmarkinglineforstitching&assemblyandprocessupperdecorationviaembroidery/HI-FIembossing/stamp/lasermethod.1.鞋類鞋面用皮料或人造皮或織品材料裁斷而成.皮料是一種天然的材料且有兩種重要的物性:有彈力和可塑性.Footwearupperarecutfromleatherorsyntheticortextilematerial.Leatherisanaturalmaterialandhastwoimportantproperties:elasticityandplasticity.裁斷時注意皮料的自然延伸特性,以免後續在制作中出現問題;排刀盡可能的從皮料上多斬裁片,最經濟地利用皮料,因為經濟是最重要的.Whencutting,operatorshavetonotethenaturalstretchcharacteristicsoftheleathertopreventproblemslaterinmanufacture;Laycuttingdiearedevelopedtocutasmanysectionsaspossiblefromtheleathertomakethemosteconomicuseoftheleatherduetotheeconomyisimportant.不同的部件選擇不同的皮料部位;一般頭莊/鞋面/後助,在穿著時阻止腳向前或向後滑動且其在走路或跑步過程中經常受到磨擦,選擇皮料最好最穩定的部位---動物的背部;其他部件可選擇動物皮的頸部/腹部.Cutdifferentsectionsformdifferentareasofaleather;Commonlytoecap/vamp/heelcapneedbecutfromthebestandfirmestpartofaleather---thebackpartoftheanimal,duetothesesectionsmainlysupportfoottopreventfromslippingforwardorbackwardinwearandtheyoftensuffermuchabrasionduringwalkingorrunning.Foranothersections,needbecutfromtheneckorbellypartsofanimal.2.裁斷前先選擇正確材料,並准備正確合理的排刀示意圖:必須確保裁向正確,使用最小的排刀安全距離(一般在1-2mm之間),每刀允許的最多裁斷層數,依材料種類不同其所裁層數分別如下:Beforecutting,preparethecorrectmaterialandthecorrect&logicalillustrationoflaycuttingdieplans:thatmakesurethestretchdirectioncorrect,applytheminsafedistancebetweentheclosecutsection(commonlyit’s1-2mm),cutthemostlayerspercutasallowable,pls

seethebelowchartforcuttingtheallowablelayersaccordingtothedifferentkindsofmaterials:類別Kinds品名規格

MaterialNamespec層數Layers真皮Leather所有真皮.Allrealleather1人造Synthetic有沖孔Withperforations2

無沖孔Withoutperforations4網布Mesh綱布Mesh+3-5mm泡棉Foam4網布Mesh+4mmEVA/三明治網布SandwichMesh2補強類Reinforcement210D/420D尼龍Nylon,18P細布slender,106600強布santaparts/0.6mm橡膠片Rubberpiece/0.6-1.0不織布non-woven/0.8麗新布Cosmo/1.5-2.0EVA80.3-06熱熔膠Hotmelt/1.5mm不織布Nonwoven5泡棉類Foam2-4mm泡棉Foam10泡棉Foam+36GT/C66-12mm泡棉Foam420mm泡棉Foam2中底類Insole加州中底Canvas/港寶HotMelt5化學布板Chemiccloth/1.5mm中底板Board2紅/黑板Red/BlackBoard2.0mm11.依領料單頷取物料,物料顏色/規格/數量一定要正確.Collectthematerialfromwarehouseaspertherequiredmateriallist.Makesurethecolor/spec/quantitycorrect.2.不允許超領.如有用量不夠,需查明原因,開補料單.經協理簽章後方或補領.Don’tallowtotakemorethanrequiredquantity.Ifthematerialisn’tenough,needcheckwhatitwascaused.Ifnecessary,applythereinforcedquantityandneedseniormanageragree&sign,thenmaytakethereinforcedmaterial.3.倉庫將需斬多層的料疊合好後,再發給裁斷部門.Needoverlapthematerialaspertheinstructionshownontheproceduremanual.Thendistributetothecuttingdepartment.裁斷領料COLLECTMATERIALFORCUTTING裁斷網布

CUTMESH1,根據《量產通知書》選擇所用型體的斬刀,拉力方向及斬的層數.

Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers

.

2,斬刀與裁斷機上座頂部的安全距離約為10mm.

Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.

3.斬刀與斬刀之間的間距為1.5mm.

Distancebetweeneverycuttingdieis1.5mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料現象。刀模不能缺角和變形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors鐵捶Hammer斬刀cuttingdie白蠟Whitewax斬斷機Cuttingmachine斬板Cuttingboard1,根據《量產通知書》選擇所用型體的斬刀,拉力方向及斬的層數.

Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers.

2,斬刀與裁斷機上座頂部的安全距離約為10mm.

Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.

3.斬刀與斬刀之間的間距為1-2mm.

Distancebetweenclosetwocutpositionis1-2mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料現象。刀模不能缺角和變形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.裁斷皮料

CUTLEATHERAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors鐵捶Hammer斬刀cuttingdie白蠟Whitewax斬板Cuttingboard斬斷機Cuttingmachine檢查皮料,將不良處畫出Checktheleather&lineoutthebreakageportion注意排放斬刀向向Notethedirectionofcuttingdie1,根據《量產通知書》選擇所用型體的斬刀,拉力方向及斬的層數.

Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers

.

2,斬刀與裁斷機上座頂部的安全距離約為10mm.

Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.

3.斬刀與斬刀之間的間距為1mm.

Distancebetweenclosetwocutpositionis1-2mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料現象。刀模不能缺角和變形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.裁斷人造皮

CUTSYNTHETICAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors鐵捶Hammer斬刀cuttingdie白蠟Whitewax斬板Cuttingboard斬斷機Cuttingmachine削皮

Skiving1,按量產通知書所要求的標准,備好所需流程圖.

Prepareprocedureflowchartaspertheproductioninformationindication.

2,按操作流程圖調好所需物料的寬度及厚度.

Setthemachinetoskivetherequiredwidth&thicknessofmaterialshownonP/I.

3.所削皮的物料不可有厚薄不均及缺角,不到位的現象

Guaranteetoskivethematerialevenly&completely,andnottomissany.AppliedTooling:削皮機Skivingmachine片皮

Slipping1,備好所需部件的操作流程圖.

Preparetheprocedureflowchartoftherequiredcomponent.

2,按操作流程圖調試好所片薄部件的厚度.

SetthemachinefollowingthecomponentthicknessshownonPFC.

3,把所片薄的物料放于片薄版內,貼好再進行操作.Putthecomponentintotheframe&attachonit,thenslip.4﹐所片薄的材料不能有厚薄不均的現象.Guaranteetoslipevenly.AppliedTooling:片皮機Slippingmachine片薄外框板Frameboardforslipping磨邊

BUFFEDGE1按量產通知書所要求的標准,備好所需流程圖.Preparetheprocedureflowchartastheproductioninformationindication

2,按操作流程圖調好所需物料的寬度及厚度.Setthemachinetobufftherequiredwidth&thicknessshownonP/I.

3所打粗的物料不可有厚薄不均及缺角,不到位的現象.Guaranteetobuffthematerialevenly&completely,andnottomissanycorner.AppliedTooling:打磨機Buffmachine預磨邊

PRE-BUFFEDGE1依材質取砂輪規格.Selecttheproperemerywheelfollowingthematerialperformance

2,打開電源,等馬達運轉正常方可作業.Turnonthepowerandprocessaftermotorrunswell-balanced3材料須靠近機器邊緣來回打粗.Thecomponentshouldbeclosetheemerywheel&buffmovedback&forth..4,NAPA皮用細砂100番,PU-coated,反毛皮用粗砂80番.BuffNapaleatherwithsilversand100#&PU-coatedandsuedewiththeroving80#.5,真皮裁片的幫角處才會預磨,一般對車中底的結構,下沿預磨6mm左右;對結幫的結構,需磨8-10mm,以利成型時粘著.Onlybufftheleathercomponent.Forthestrobelconstruction,needbufftheloweredgeofcomponentabout6mm;Forthelastingconstruction,needbuffabout8-10mmforgoodbonding.AppliedTooling:打磨機Buffmachine印刷

Printing1備好所需部件的綱板,外框,油墨,操作流程圖..Preparethenecessaryprintingscreen

&

frame&printinginkasindicatedontheprocedureflowchart.

2,固定綱板,貼好外框,調試好油墨.Fixtheprintingscreen&followingitattachthecomponentframe,andmixtheprintingink.3把所需印刷的物料,對准外框上的記號點,放于框內進行印刷.Putthecomponentintoframefollowingthemark,thenprint.4.勤洗綱板.Screenshouldbewashedcleanlyoften.5.印刷線要清晰,線條不可有粗細現象.Printinglineshouldbeclear&even.

AppliedTooling:網板Screenforprinting印刷外框Frameofcomponent壓高周波

HI/FIEMBOSS1.備好所需部件的操作流程圖,外框,銅模.Preparetheprocedureflowchart&componentframe&coppermold2,裝好所需部件的外框﹐銅模。Fixthecoppermold&frameofcomponent3根據各型體的操作標准﹐調試好所需的溫度。Adjustthetemperatureasthestandard.4.將所壓物按記號點放于外框內﹐將所需TPU按印刷放于物料上。PutthematerialontheframefollowingthemarkandputtheTPUonthematerial.5.所壓出的材料不可有移位和脫落的現象﹐壓痕深淺要一致。Guaranteethecomponentoncorrectposition¬delaminate&theembossconsistent.AppliedTooling:高周波機HI/FImachine刀Knife,鑷子Forceps,尖嘴鉗Sharppincher尖刀片Sharpknife,剪刀Scissor,外框板Frameofcomponent烘毛邊

HOTHAIRYEDGE1.將毛邊烘除干凈.Hotthehairyedgecleanly.2,不可離烘線機太近﹐烘線時間不可太長﹐以免造成物料損傷Don'tmakeittooclosetheburnernorhottoolongtimetoavoidfrombreakageAppliedTooling:烘線機Burner烙邊

CAUTERIZEEDGE1.電烙電達到設定的溫度后開始烙邊.Starttocauterizeuntilthetemperatureofsearing-ironenough.2,烙好的物料不能有燙焦及卷邊的現象.Thecomponentscan'tbeburned&rolledge.AppliedTooling:烙鐵searing-iron塗邊

SPREADEDGE1,材料的表層顏色與內層顏色不一致時,需塗邊.Ifthesurfacecolorisdifferentwithinnercolor,needdaubpaintthatcolorissameassurface.2,油漆顏色要一致,不能有色差.Makesurethecolorofmaterial&paintconsistent..3,涂漆要均勻,不能污染到物料的正面.Spreadpaintevenly,notallowtopollutethesurfaceofmateriel.AppliedTooling:泡棉Foam裁織帶與抽條

Cutwebbing&tape1.打開機器電源待到設定溫度后,按量產通知書作業.StarttocutfollowingtheinstructioninPPIafterthetemperatureenough.2,裁好的物料長短要一致.Thetapeshouldbeconsistentinwidth&lengthaftercut.AppliedTooling:裁織帶機Cuttingwebbingmachine半叉過膠

WEDGETHROUGHCEMENT1.啟動電源開關﹐調整好膠糟溫度。Turnonthepowerandadjustthetemperatureofhotmeltgroove.2等熱熔膠完全熔化后﹐方可作業。Putthewedgethroughthemachineuntilthehotmeltunfreeze..3.膠糟溫度﹕160-200度﹐滾輪溫度﹕180-200度。Hotmeltgroovetemperature:160-200oC;idlerwheeltemperature:180-200oC.AppliedTooling:過膠機Hotmeltmachine熱熔膠Hotmelt半叉削薄

SKIVEWEDGE1.根據所需削薄半叉的規格,調整好機器.Adjustthemachinetoskivethecorrectspecofwedge.2,削薄機刀片要注意不能缺口及孌形.Note:thebladeofmachineshouldbenodistortion&nogap.3.削好的半叉不可有缺角,破損,厚度不好及寬度不夠的現象.Guaranteethewedgenogap&nodistortion&thewidth&thicknessproperafterskived.AppliedTooling:削薄機Skivingmachine半叉貼合

ATTACHWEDGE1.半叉對准中底上的記號齒或畫線Attachthewedgeontheinsolefollowingupthenickmarkormarkingline.2.半叉與中底貼合時一定要吻合,貼好.Thewedgemustfittheinsole&needattachwell.中底倒角

TAPERTHEINSOLEEDGE1.依所需要倒角的中底半叉,備好所需之操作流程圖.Preparetheprocedureflowchartfollowingtheinsoleconstruction.2,根據材質不同調整好機器,倒角斜度為:250到300.Adjustthetaperofmachinethatisfrom250-300aspertheinsoleperformancecategory.

3,中底不能毛邊且要圓順.Theedgeofinsoleshouldbesmoothnothairyaftertapered.AppliedTooling:倒角機Taperedgemachine中底壓機

PRESSTHEINSOLE1.注意放中底時,每次壓機放2片。Note:puttwopieceinsoleseverytime.2,中底壓機時﹐要放正﹐不能太上或太下﹐壓機的位置要正確。Guaranteethepositionofinsoleproperonpressingmachine.3,邊角的位置要確實壓好。Especiallypresstheedgeofinsolewell.4.壓力:35kg,時間:4-5秒.Pressure:35kg,time:4-5second.AppliedTooling:上下壓機Verticalpressingmachine壓中底Pressinsole放中底Putinsoleonmachine磨鞋墊

BUFFTHEINSOCK1.依客戶要求或楦頭的結構,有的鞋墊打磨腰部弧度Aspercustomer’srequestorthelastconstruction,someDieCutinsockneedbuffonarchportionofwaist.2,一般涼鞋的鞋墊需整圈打磨。Forusualsandal,theinsockneedbebuffedaround.3.打磨時,依照規格表標示的寬度及厚度,且需磨均勻Duringbuffing,thespecshouldfollowthewidth&thicknessindicatedonsignedproductionprocedureinformation,andneedmakeiteven.AppliedTooling:打磨機Buffingmachine貼補強

ATTACHREINFORCEMENT1.一般需要電鄉/高波/電腦針車的配件,其補強需在斬斷部門貼合.Thereinforcementneedbeattachedincuttingdepartmentforthecomponentsthatneedembroidery/HI–FI/stitchwithcomputerstitchingmachine.2.根據鞋子的結構,貼補強時有的部位需用凹模或凸模,以免貼合及成型後打皺.Asperconstructionofproduction,toattachsomereinforcementneeduseconcavitymoldorconvexitymoldtoavoidfromwrinkle.3.貼合時位置要正確,且需貼平順.Thepositionshouldbecorrectandmustbesmoothafterattached.AppliedTooling:凸模Convexitymold凹模Concavitymold壓熱熔膠

PRESSHOTMELTPC1.依部件材質,調適當的溫度及熱壓時間.一般熱熔膠片或橡膠片與皮料貼合溫度設為180-200度,時間6-8秒;與Cosmo貼合,溫度100-120度,時間6-8秒.Asperthematerialperformancesthatattachedwithhotmeltpcorrubbertopping,adjustthetemperature&timeforpressing.Commonlyfortheleather,temperature:180-200C。,time:6-8sec;forcosmo,tem:100-120

C。,time:6-8sec.2.先將待熱壓部件放於壓機平台中,再用耐高溫的牛皮紙蓋住有貼熱熔膠處,再壓機.Atfirstputthecomponentontheflatofmachine,th