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服装设计外文翻译+++-CAL-FENGHAI-(2020YEAR-YICAI)JINGBIAN服装设计外文翻译CoutureSewingTechniqueClairePrintedUnitedStatesoriginallypublishedTauntonPressJnc・FinishesHems,FacingsBindingsUnlessfinishedsomeway,garmentravellookincomplete・edges——theneckline;verticalfrontedgesjackets,coatsmanyblouses;jacketscanbecomedistinctive,decorativeelementsusedextensivelycouture:hems,facingsedgefinishdependsmanythings一theshapeedgebeingfinished;itspositiontype,designgarment;currentfashiontrends;individualwearerbottomedgeasymmetrical,curved,scallopedotherwiseunusuallyshaped,whentwodifferentedgesrequireslightlydifferentfinishestailoredgarmentwouldrequireverydifferentfinishingfromeveninggown,evensimilardesignsvorkeddissimilarfabricswoulddictatefinishessuitableeachfabric・Althoughhems,facingsalledgefinishes,eachhasslightlydifferentfunction.Hemsgenerallyusedloweredgesgarmentsectionmanyhelpgarmenthangattractivelyaddingweight,otherhand,verticaledgescanupper,lowerverticaledges,they'reusedmostoftenreplacefacingsratherthanhems・Facingscanseparatesectionsfinishcurvedshapededges・whenusedonlyslightlycurved,nothingmorethanwidehemallowance,whichcasethey'recalledextendedfacings・Bothhemsonlyoneside一usually,separatestripsgarmentedgefinishbothsidesgarmentattractively・Becausematerialstakesbackseatdesiredresults,edgesalwaysfinishedsimplestmethodonemostoftenusedready-to-wearconstructionhomesewing・Whateverfinishingmethod,hems,facingsbindingscansewnentirelymachinework.,handworkvisiblefinishedproduct,however,handworkusedtraditionalcouturegarment.FACINGSFacing®likehems,hems,whichhangfreegarment'shangmorethanitsoverallshape,facededgesfrequentlyfitbody'scurvessubtlyaffectgarment'ssilhouette・Usedgarmentopenings,curvededgesshapededgeslikejacketlapels,facingscontributesignificantlyoverallimpressionwell-constructedgarment・threetypesfacings:extended,shapedbiasfacings一arecutseparatelyfromsewnfromself-fabriclightweightliningfabrics,extendedfacinggarmentsectionlikeplainhemcourse,self-fabric・extendedfacingnothingmorethansewnexactlylikeplainhem(seepp.63-64).Whengarmentedgelength-wisegrain,extendedfecingduplicatesslightcurve,facingcan'tduplicatemayhaveeased,stretchededgesmoothly.extendedfecingusedextensivelycouturebecausefoldededgemoresupplethanseamededgesbiasfacingsconsequentlydrapesbetter・Edgesextendedfacingsgenerallyinterfacedstabilizedsooriginalshapeitsnamesuggests,shapedfacingususllyduplicatesoftenusededgesintendedcrisp,constructedlook,alwaysusedintricatelyshapededgeslikescallopedhem.biasfacingstripcuttruebias.Becausedoesn'tduplicatefacingmustitselffacingsmadefromlightweightfabricsproducenarrow,inconspicuousfacings・cousture,morethanonetypeoftenusedsinglegarmentsingleedge・pinkgazardressshownabove,example^asextendedfacingsfrontnecklinebackopeningshapedfacingsfrontnecklinebackopeningshapedfacingsbackneckline.Similarly,shapedfacingupperhalffrontedgeextendedfecinglowerhalfapplyinganykindfacing,examinegarment'sfitdeterminewhetheredgeneedsstaytape(seepp.49-50)interfaced(see68).0neeyou'vehandiedyoucanproceedfacingyou'vechosen.SHAPEDFACINGSShapedfacingscantypescouture,whileonlymachineapplicationsmachineepplicationcourse,faster,some廿mesmoredifficultfacingsofitssmoothly,sometimesvisiblegarmentedge.instructionsbelowapplyingshapedfacingsmachine,referyourfavoritesewingmanual.)directionsfocusnecklinefacingsbecausethey'remostfrequentlyusedcoutureworkrooms・However,directionseanotheredgeswaistbands^armholes,appliedpockets,collarsgarmentlinings.facingcanmadeanytimeafterneckedgestabilizedappropriatelycancutfromoriginalgarmentpatternedgewasn'tchangedduringfittingprocess,garmentitselfcanservethread-tracednecklinecancorrespondingstitchinglinefinishednecklinecanalsoguidewhenyou'reapplyingfacingscanseveralshapes・Twomostpopulartraditionalcirclularshape,whichmeasuresevendistanceallaroundfromrectangularshape,whichextendsarmscyeseams・Whenlargershapefacingedgescanseamlines,holdingthemsmoothfacingshadowmayalsolessobtrusivelargershape,dependingobviousdisadvantegeadditionalfabricintroducedshoulderarea,whichmaygivebulkyappearanee.Onesolutionreducingsomeseamlinesl/2originalpositions.alwaysalignedcorrespondinggermentseamlines,homesewing.Iessfamiliarrectangularfacing,caneasilycircularfacing,Startselect!ngsomescrapsfromyourgarmentfabricbackfacingsunlesswhichcaseuselighterjirmlywovenmaterialpiecespreferablebecauseyou'recuttingrectangulerfacinghigh,roundnecklinebeck,beginonelargerectangleabout16frontfacingtwosmalleronesaboutbackfacings.Whenapplyinggarmentedgebeforemakingfacingsoyoucanusefinished,dosobeforestartingfreeedgelieflat・Trimseamallowancearoundgarmentneckwrongside.Bastegenerousl/5seamallowance'stendencycuriaroundneck,snipshallowcutsrawedgeeveryinchnecklineseamallowaneelieflat(asshownwrongsideup,placenecklineoverpressingcushionpressjustnecklineedge.yourfingers,gentlytryrawedge.necessary,trimedgefurtherfirmlywovenfabricslessstabblefabrics・seamallowancestilldoesn'tlieflat,cliprawedgeshort,closelyspacedsnipsupbastingstitchesaroundneckedge・Useloosecatchstitchseamallowancegarmenthasneither,sewcarefullysostitchesdorightsideeachsectionproceeding,decidewhetherrelacatingshoulderseamsrelacatingyoudecidedoso,beginwrongsidestogether,grainlinestogethercenterfrontitsfacing.garmentnecklinecurved,whenworn,smoothplace,pinningyougo.Whenyougetshoulderseams,smoothfrontfacingoverseamssoseamallowancestrimawayshoulderseamsneckedgd,leaving1/2-iruseamallowancesshownebove.Pinbackfacing(s)shoulderseams,trimrawedgesunder,shownebove.point,youcanmachine-stitchshoulderseams・neckline,trimawayexcess,leaving1/underrawedgesogarment*sseamallowanee.necessary,clipturnundersmoothlyshallowcurves,youcanturnbackneckedgepresslightly.Usingfellstitchslipstitch,sewneckedgeshoulderseamsweren'tmachine-stitched・Removepresslightly.BIASFACINGSbiasfacingnarrowstripfabriccuttruebiasshaped,ratherthancut,adaptedsoftedges,frequentlyusedlightweightsilkcottonfabrics・couturework-rooms,mostbiasfacings,self-fabricsewnfromlightweightfabric,heavy,liningmaterialcanusedinsteed・Biasfacingslessconspicuousthanshapedfacings,requirelessfabric,they'rebothmorecomfortablewearnextmoreeconomicaltwodisadvantegesfacings,however.Whenbiasfacinggarmentedgerarelyinterfacedbiasfacingusuallyslipstitchedsometimesdifficultstitchesfromshowingbiasfacingsfinishedsothey'reabout1/2jewelneckline,biasfacing,moredifficultcurvededge.Beforeapplyingbiasfacing,finishgarmentedge.Foldseamallowaneewrongsidebastel/8edgelieflat・wrongsideup,pressgarmentedgebiasstripseveralincheslonger,joinseveralstripslengthyouneed.11/facing,stripshouldstraightedges11/curvededges・FoldoneIongedgesunder1/4bestaccomplishedonetimefoldededgeyourhandssostayfoldedwithoutpressing,whichmightstretchwrongsideupwrongsidebiasstripwrongsidefoldedgarmentedge,aligningbiasedgebastingJ/8garmentedge.Pinbias,easingstripuntiledgesmoothly
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