T-CTES 1070-2024 制服用精梳毛型面料的通.用性能要求

ICS61.020CCSW20T/CTES1070—2024制服用精梳毛型面料的通用性能要求Generalperformancerequirementsforcombedwoolfabricsforuniforms2024-06-21发布2024-07-01实施中国纺织工程学会发布T/CTES1070—2024本文件按照GB/T1.1-2020《标准化工作导则第1部分：标准化文件的结构和起草规则》的规定请注意本文件的某些内容可能涉及专利。本文件的发布机构不承担识别专利的责任。本文件由中国纺织工程学会标准化工作委员会提出。本文件由中国纺织工程学会归口。本文件负责起草单位：江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司。本文件参加起草单位：山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司、江苏丹毛纺织股份有公司、嵊州雅戈尔毛纺织有限公司。木文件主要起草人：姜爱娟、王科林、俞金林、周新祥、李侨丽、白洁、文美莲、肖红。T/CTES1070—2024制服用精梳毛型面料的通用性能要求本文件规定了毛型制服面料的要求、试验方法、检验规则、标志、包装、运输和储存。本文件适用于鉴定各类机织毛型制服用精梳纯毛、毛混纺(羊毛与其他毛发类纤维含量在53%及以上)面料的品质，含量低于50%混纺及纯化纤仿毛面料参照执行，不适用于针织物。2规范性引用文件下列文件中的内容通过文中的规范性引用而构成本文件必不可少的条款。其中，注日期的引用文件·仪该日期对应的版本适用于本文件；不注日期的引用文件，其最新版本(包括所有的修改单)适用于本文件。GB/T250纺织品色牢度试验评定变色用灰色样卡GB/T2910(所有部分〉纺织品定量化学分析GB/T3917.2纺织品织物撕破性能第2部分：裤形试样(单缝)撕破强力的测定GB/T3920纺织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度GB/T3921纺织品色牢度试验耐皂洗色牢度GB/T3922纺织品色牢度试验耐汗渍色牢度GB/T3923.1纺织品织物拉伸性能第1部分：断裂强力和断裂伸长率的测定(条样法)GB/T4666纺织品织物长度和幅宽的测定(B/T4802.1—2008纺织品织物起毛起球性能的测定第1部分：圆轨迹法GB/T5711纺织品色牢度试验耐四氯乙烯干洗色牢度GB/T5713纺织品色牢度试验耐水色牢度GB/T6152纺织品色年度试验耐热压色牢度GB/T8170数值修约规则与极限数值的表示和判定GB/T8427—2019纺织品色牢度试验耐人造光色牢度：弧GB/T86292017试验用家庭洗涤和干燥程序GB/T12703.2—2021织物静电性能的评定第2部分：手动摩擦法GB/T14576纺织品色牢度试验耐光、汗复合色牢度GB/T16988特种动物纤维与绵羊毛混合物含量的测定GBT17031.1纺织品织物在低压下的干热效应第1部分：织物的干热处理程序GB/T17031.2纺织品织物在低压下的干热效应第2部分：受F热的织物尺寸变化的测定GB18401国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范FZ/T01026纺织品定量化学分析多组分纤维混合物FZ/T01057(所有部分)纺织纤维鉴别试验方法FZT01112纺织品定量化学分析蚕丝与羊毛或·和羊绒的混合物(甲酸/氯化锌法)FZ/T20008毛织物单位面积质量的测定FZ'T20009毛织物尺寸变化的测定静态浸水法FZ;T20019毛织物脱缝程度试验方法2T/CTES1070—2024FZ/T20021织物经汽蒸后尺寸变化试验方法FZ/T70505毛纺织品伸长和回复性试验方法FZ/T80007.3使用粘合衬服装服装耐千洗测试方法T/CTES1068制服面料极光的测试与评价T/CTES1059机织制服面料弹性保持性试验方法GSB16—2924精梳毛织品(光面)起球标准样照GSB162925精梳毛织品(绒面)起球标准样照3术语和定义下列术语和定义适用于木文件。3.1毛型制服面料wooluniformfabric纯毛织物、毛覆纯化学长丝纤维，或精梳纯毛与毛型化学纤维混纺/交红织成均级物。4要求4.1安全性要求甲醛量H值、异昧、可分解芳养胺染料符合B18401的规定4.2实物质量4.2.1对照实物标样，色差(级，颜色按GB/T250评定，条件：在北向自然光下或光源箱D65光源下进行。4.2.2对照实物标样对手感、风格进行目测和手感检验4.3内在质量4.3.1染色牢度染色牢度应符合表1规定。表1染色牢度指标要求夏季面料舂秋面料冬服面料耐光色牢度级444条耐水色牢度/级手4444耐汗渍色牢度/缀4444耐热压色牢度/级444444T/CTES1070—20243表1染色牢度指标要求(续)444444444444444为165g/m²以下.春秋季面料克重为166g/m²~220g/m².冬季面料克重为221gm²及以上。4耐光汗复合色牢度仅考核夏装产品，评级色卡按物理性能应符合表2规定。表2物理性能指标指标夏季面料春秋面料冬服面料-2.0一4.0～+5.0按GB/T29862规定执行一≥≥334442及单纬纱高于≥≥200200200300300300撕破强力/N≥电荷面密度"/(uC/m²)洗前≤5,05.05.0洗后≤7.07.07,0T/CTES1070—20244表2物理性能指标(续)夏季面料春秋面料冬服面料十热尺寸变化率/%-1.5～+1.5-1.5～+1.5干洗尺寸变化率/%-1.5～+1.5-1.5～+1.5汽蒸尺寸变化率/%-1.5～+1.5-1.5~+1.5静态尺寸变化率/%-2.0～+2.0-2.0～+2.0落水变形/级333脱缝程度/mm≤66弹性伸长率=/%888非回复性伸长率/%33光泽度变化率/级333耐久性弹性回变化善%≤9995试验方法5.1安全性要求基本安全要求按GB¹8401规定执行5.2内在质量5.2.1耐光色牢度按GB/T8427—219中的方法3规定执行。按GB/T5713规定执行。按GB/T3922规定执行。5.2.4耐热压色牢度按GB/T6152规定执行.采用潮压法(温度180℃=2℃)按GB/T3920规定执行。55.2.6耐干洗色牢度5.2.7耐皂洗色牢度按GB.T3921—2008按照A(1)规定执行。5.2.8耐光、汗复合色牢度按GB/T14576规定执行。按GB/T4666规定执行。幅宽偏差按公式(1)计算，结果按GB/T8170精确到小数点后一位。织物的幅宽也可由工厂在检验机上直接测量，在检验机上应逐匹量计幅宽，每匹不少于3处。L=L₁L₂…………(1)式中：L:-—实际测量的幅宽值，单位为厘米(cm);L:——幅宽设定值，单位为厘米(cm)。5.2.10单位面积质量按FZ/T20008规定执行。单位面积质量偏差率按公式(2)计算，结果按GB/T8170精确到小数点后一位。式中：g:——实际测量的单位面积质量值，单位为克每平方米(g/m²);g.——单位面积质量设定值.单位为克每平方米(g/m)。5.2.11纤维含量偏差率按FZ/T01057(所有部分)、GB/T2910(所有部分)、GB/'T16988、FZ/T01026、FZ/T01112执行。按GB/T4802.1-2008中E法执行，其中精梳毛织品(绒面)起球次数为400次.并按GSB16—2924精梳毛织品(光面)起球、GSB16—2925精梳毛织品(绒面)起球标准样照评级。按GB/T3923.1条样法规定执行。5.2.14撕破强力按GB/T3917.2规定执行。5.2.15电荷面密度按(B/T12703.2—2021规定执行。按(GB/T8629-2017中7A程序洗涤，首次加合成洗涤剂后T/CTES1070—20246连续洗涤10次。5.2.16干热尺寸变化率按GB/T17031.1、GB/TJ7031.2规定执行。5.2.17干洗尺寸变化率按FZ/T80007.3规定执行.采用缓和干洗法。5.2.18汽蒸尺寸变化率按FZ/T20021规定执行。5.2.19静态尺寸变化率按FZ/T20009规定执行。按FZ/T24002-2006中附录B规定执行，采用样照评级。5.2.21脱缝程度按FZ/T20019规定执行。按FZ/T70005规定执行。5.2.23非回复性伸长率按FZ/T70005规定执行。按T/CTES1068规定执行。规定执行7SocialOrganizationStandardT/CTES1070—2024制服用精梳毛型面料的通用性能要求(EnglishTranslation)Issuedate:2024-06-21Implementationdate:2024-07-01T/CTES1070—20248ThisdocumentisdraftedinaccordancewiththerulesestablishedintheGB/T1.1—2020Directivesforstandardization—Part1:Structureanddraftingofstandards.ThisdocumentisproposedbytheStandardizationWorkingCommitteeoftheChinaTextileEngineer-ingSociety.Theissuingbodyofthisdocumentisnotresponsiblefortheidentificationofpatents.ThisdocumentisunderthejurisdictionofChinaTextileEngineeringSociety.9T/CTES1070—2024GeneralperformancerequirementsforcombedwoolfabricsforuniformsThisdocumentspecifiesrequirements.testmethods,inspectionrulesforwooltypeuniformThisdocumentissuitableforidentifyingthequalityofallkindsofwovenwoolandwoolblendedfab-ricsforwovenwooluniforms(woolandotherhairfiberscontain50%ormore).Thecontentofwoolblendedandpurechemicalfiberwoollikefabricscanbereferredto.butnotsuitableforknittedfabrics.2NormativereferencesThecontentsofthefoliowingdocumentsconstituteindispensableprovisionsofthisdocumentthroughnormativereferencesinthetext.Whereadocumentiscitedwithadate.onlytheversioncorrespondingtothatdateappliestothisdocument;whereadocumentiscitedwithoutadate,thelatestversion(includingallchangeorders)appliestothisdocument.GB/T250.Textilecolorfastnesstest—GraysamplecardforassessingcolorchangeGB/T2910(allparts),TextilequantitativechemicalanalysisGB/T3917.2,Textiles—Tearingpropertiesoffabrics—Part2:Determinationoftearforceoftrou-ser-shapedtestspecimens(singletearmethod)GB/T3920.Textiles-Testsforcolourfastness—ColourfastnesstorubbingGB/T3921,Textiles-Testforcolourfastness—ColourfastnesstowashingwithsoapandsodaGB/T3922,Textiles-Testsforcolourfastness—ColourfastnesstoperspirationGB/T3923.1.Textiles-Tensilepropertiesoffabrics—Part1:DeterminationofmaximumforceandelongationatmaximumforceusingthestripmethodGB/T4666.Textiles—Fabrics—DeterminationofwidthandlengthT/CTES1070—2024GB/T4802.1—2008.Textiles—Determinationoffabricpropensitytosurfaceandtopiling—Part1:CircularlucusmethodGB/T5711.Textiles—Testsforcolourfastness—Colourfastnesstodrycleaningusingperchloro-ethylenesolventGB/T5713.Textiles—Testsforcolourfastness—ColourfastnesstowaterGB/T6152.Textiles—Testsforcolourfastness—ColourfastnesstohotpressingGB/T8170.Rulesofroundingofffornumericalvalues&expressionandjudgementoflimitingvaltesGB/T8427—2019.Textiles—Testsforcolourfastness—Colourfastnesstoartificiallight;XenonarcGB/T8629—2017.Textiles—DomesticwashinganddryingproceduresfortextiletestingGB/T12703.2—2021.Textiles—Testmethodsforelectrostaticpropensity—Part2:TestmethodusingmanualfrictionGB/T14576.Textiles—Testsforcolourfastness—ColourfastnesstolightoftextilewettedwithartificialperspirationGB/T16988.QuantitativedeterminationformixturesofspecialanimalfiberandwoolGB/T17031.1,Textiles—Effectofdryheatonfabricsunderlowpressure—Part1:Dryheattreat-mentproceduresforfabricsGB/T17031.2.Textiles—Effectofdryheatonfabricsunderiowpressure—Part2:DeterminationofdimensionalchangesoffabricssubjectedtodryheatGB18401,NationaltechnicalspecificationforbasicsafetyoftextileproductsFZ/T01026.Textiles—Quantitativechemicalanalysis—Multi-componentfibermixturesFZ/T01057(allparts).TestmethodforidentificationoftextilefiberFZ/T01112.Textiles—Quantitativechemicalanalysis—Mixturesofsilkandwoolor/andcashmere(methodusingformicacidandzincchloride)FZ/T20008.TestforthemassperunitareaofwoolfabricFZ/T20009.Determinationofthedimensionalchangeofwoolfabrics—WaterimmersionT/CTES1070—2024FZ/T20019.TestMethodfordeterminingtheseamslippageofwoolwovenfabricsFZ/T20021.MethodfordeterminationofdimensionalchangeoffabricsinducedbyfreestreamFZ/T70005.TestMethodforElongationandRecoveryofWoolenTextilesFZ/T80007.3.DrywashresistancetestmethodforgarmentsusedadhesiveinterliningT/CTES1068.TestingandevaluationofuniformfabricpolarizedshiningT/CTES1069.TestingmethodofelasticityretentivityofwovenuniformfabricsGSB16—2924.Standardsampleforpillingofcombedwoolentextiles(smooth)GSB16—2925.Standardforpillingofcombedwoolenfabrics(fleece)samplephoto3TerminologyanddefinitionsThefollowingtermsanddefinitionsapplytothisdocument.3.1WooluniformfabricPurewoolfabrics,wool-typepurechemicalilamentfibers.orblended/interwovenfabricsofcombedpurewoolandwool-typechemicalfibers.4Requirements4.1SecurityrequirementsFomaldehydecontent.pHvalue.odor.decomposablearomaticaminedyesshouldbeconsistentwiththeprovisionsofGB18401.4.2Physicalquality4.2.1againstthelightoftherealspecialstandardsamples,colordifference≥4levels.thecoloraccordingtoGB/T250assessment.conditions:inthenorthundernaturallightorlightsourceboxD65lightsource.4.2.2Visualandfeeltestagainstphysicalspecimensforhandinessandstyle.T/CTES1070—20244.3Intrinsic4.3.1DyeingqualityfastnessDyefastnessshallbeinaccordancewithTable1.Table1—RequirementsforcolorfastnessindexesNormSummerFabricsAutumnFabricsWinterClothingFabricsColorfastnesstolight/grademedium-lightcolor444Colorfastnesstowater/grade444444Colorfastnesstoperspiration/grade44一44一Colorfastnesstoheatpressing/grade444444Colorfastnesstorubbing/grade444Drycleaningcolorfastness⁶/grade444staining444Colorfastnesstosoaping‘/grade444444Colorfastnesstolightandsweatcomposite/gradechangecolor≥一一一一NOTE1AccordingtotheprovisionsofGB/T4841.3.>1/12standarddepthisdarkcolor.≤1/12standarddepthismedium-lightcolor.edintosummer.springandfall.winterthreecategoriesofuniformfabriccategories.Amongthem.theweightofsummerfabricsisbelow165g/m²,theweightofspringandfallfabricsis166-220g/m².andthewelghtofwifabricsis221g/m²andabove.°Wetrubbingfastnessofdarkcoloredfabricscanbereducedbyhalfadegree.Colorfastnesstodrycleaningisnotassessedfornon-drycleanableproducts.Colorfastnesstosoapingisnotassessednon-washableproducts.totheprovisionsofGB/T250.T/CTES1070—20244.3.2PhysicalpropertiesPhysicalpropertiesshallbeinaccordancewithTable2.Table2—PhysicalperformanceindexesNormSummerFabricsAutumnFabricsWinterFabricsWidthdeviation/cm-2.0Deviationrateofqualityperunitarea/%4,0～+5.0Deviationrateoffibercontent/。implementedinaccordancewiththeprovisionsofGBKT29862Pilling/grade一3metallie444Breakinstrength/NotherTearstrengt/NChargesufacedensity/(pC/m²beforewashingafterwashingDryheatsizechangerate/%-1.5～+1.5一1.5～+1,5Drycleaningsizechangerate/%-1.5～+1.5Steamsizechangerate/%-1.5～+1.5-1.5~+1.5-1.5～+1.5StaticDimensiona!ChangeRate/%-2.0～+2.0-2.0～+2.0Falingwaterdeformationgrade≥333Degreeofde-seaming/mm666Elasticelongation/%≥888Non-recoveryelongation/%333Glosschangerate/grade≥333999chargesurfacedensityindicatorsonlyassessthefabriccontainingantistaticperformancefiberfabrics.°drycleaningslzechangeratedoesnotassessthenon-drycleaningproducts.T/CTES1070—20245.1SecurityrequirementsBasicsafetyrequirementsareimplementedaccordingtoGB18401.5.2.1ColorfastnesstolightPerformasspecifiedinMethod3ofGB/T8427—2019.5.2.2ColorfastnesstowaterImplementedinaccordancewithGB/T5713.5.2.3ColorfastnesstoperspirationImplementedinaccordancewithGB/T3922.5.2.4ColorfastnesstoheatpressingPerformaccordingtoGB/T6152,usingthetidepressuremethod(temperature180℃±2℃).5.2.5ColorfastnesstorubbingImplementedinaccordancewithGB/T3920.5.2.6DrycleaningcolorfastnessImplementedinaccordancewiththeprovisionsofGB/T5711.5.2.7ColorfastnesstosoapingAccordingtoGB/T3921—2008inaccordancewiththeprovisionsofA(1).5.2.8ColorfastnesstolightandsweatcompositeImplementedinaccordancewithGB/T14576.T/CTES1070—20245.2.9WidthPerformaccordingtoGB/T4666.Widthdeviationiscalculatedaccordingtoformula(1),andthere-sultisaccuratetoonedecimalpointaccordingtoGB/T8170.Fabricwidthcanalsobemeasureddi-rectlybythefactoryintheinspectionmachine.theinspectionmachineshouldbemeasuredbythewidthofeachhorse.eachhorsenotlessthan3places.whereLwidthdeviationincentimeters,cm;L1actualmeasuredwidthvalueincentimeters,cm;L2widthsettingincentimeters,cm.5.2.10QualityperunitareaImplementedacoordingtoFZ/T20008.Thedeviationrateofqualityperunitareaiscalculatedac-cordingtoformula(2),andtheresultisaccuratetoonedecimalpointaccordingtoGB/T3170.whereAsingleforareaqualitydeviationrate;9ledmassvalueperunitareaingramspersquaremeter,g/m²;lormassperunitareaingramspersquaremeter,g/m²,iiteoffibercontentitoFZ/T01057(allparts).GB/T2910(allparts),GB/T1698