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1、“Bilingual Course”,海 岸 动 力 学 Coastal Hydrodynamics,CONTENTS,Chapter1 Introduction,Chapter2 Wave Theory,Chapter3 Wave Transformation,Chapter4 Nearshore Circulations,Chapter5 Sediment Movements,Chapter6 Coastal Changes,PROLOGUE,1 Self-introduction,2 Teaching assumptions,3 About the textbook,Name: ZHEN

2、G Jinhai,Education: Ph.D. 1998, Coastal Engineering, Hohai University,Employment: Professor, College of Traffic, College of Ocean, Hohai University,1. SELF-INTRODUCTION,Research interest (a):,Numerical modeling of coastal and estuarine hydrodynamics,A phase averaging prediction model for multi-direc

3、tional random waves considering ambient currents,Research interest (b):,Experimental study on interactions of waves and structures,Floating Mat Breakwater in Daishan Central Fishery Harbor,Research interest (c):,Environmental impact assessment of coastal engineering,Large-scale Reclamation Project i

4、n Sanduao Bay,Contact us:,Dr. Jin-Hai Zheng or where wave action is so strong that fine sediment is easily carried away and difficult to deposit. The grain diameter of the material generally ranges from 0.06 to 2.0mm, with beach pro 1/100.,(I) Coast types,Chapter 1,Rocky coast (基岩海岸) presents irregu

5、lar configuration, with numerous bays, straits and capes. Owing to the presence of great depth of water and good sheltering condition, favorable sites for port construction could be found along such coast.,(I) Coast types,Chapter 1,Coral coast (珊瑚礁海岸) prevails along the coastline south of the Tropic

6、 of Cancer. Coral reefs are usually found around islands, such as around the Hainandao, on the east and south coast of Taiwan and at the archipelagoes of the South China Sea.,(I) Coast types,Chapter 1,The huge amount of sediment deposited near the mouths of the rivers under the action of waves and c

7、urrents causes significant changes of the coastline.,(II) Rivers emptying into the sea,Chapter 1,(III) Dynamic action,Diversified coast types and innumerable river outlets, together with scattering islands around the coast, give rise to complicated bed forms, which in turn affects the dynamic featur

8、es along the coast of China.,TIDE,WAVE,SEDIMENT,Chapter 1,Semi-diurnal tide at the Yangtze Estuary,Chapter 1,(IV) Climatic influence,China is a country strongly affected by monsoons.,In China typhoon is of frequent occurrence during summer and autumn, particularly along the coast of southeastern pro

9、vinces.,China is often hit by cold wave.,Development of Coastal Zone Resources in China,Chapter 1,() Coastal Resources of China,() Port Construction along the Coast,() Reclamation and Land Use,() Rational Utilization and Development of Coastal Resources,Chapter 1,In 1980 the State Council decided to

10、 conduct a Nation-wide Comprehensive Assessment of Coastal Resources along our coastline.,(I) Coastal resources,reclaimable land,salt fields,aquatic breeding,tidal power,oil resources,Chapter 1,Up to the end of 2008, there were 36 major ports and the number of 10,000 and over tonnage berth was incre

11、ased to 1030. The total cargo handling capacity of all the ports along the coast was 5.6 billion tons.,(II) Port construction,Chapter 1,In the past 50 years, about 1.2 million ha of tidal flat have been enclosed.,(III) Land reclamation,NEW STAGE: multi-purpose development of coastal zone resources m

12、ore complicated technical problems to meet with,Chapter 1,In the comprehensive utilization and development of coastal resources, it is necessary to consider the specific circumstances of the coastal region concerned, making full use of its advantageous conditions.,(IV) Rational development,Meanwhile

13、, special care should be taken of the maintenance of ecologic balance and protection against pollution.,Background Information of Coastal Engineering,Chapter 1,Coastal engineering is a branch of civil engineering, which was established by the close cooperation between civil engineers and scientists

14、in other fields such as geography, oceanography and geology, etc.,Chapter 1,The term “coastal engineering” was first introduced in Oct. 1950 at the First Conference on Coastal Engineering held at Long Beach, California, U.S.A. The early research was limited in the area of wave prediction, wave trans

15、formation in the shallow water zone especially for military purpose.,(I) Historical background,Chapter 1,Chapter 1,(II) Recent trends,Coastal engineering arose from a strong interest in harbor construction and coastal protection measures.,In resent years, the subjects involved in coastal engineering

16、 have expanded to the environmental preservation of the coastal and nearshore zones.,Chapter 1,For all kinds of coastal engineering, characteristic environmental factors such as waves, currents, tides and sediments should be investigated firstly.,All in all, costal hydrodynamics should be mastered.,Chapter 1,(III) Literature sources in coastal studies,field survey,Methods to Study Coastal Hydrodynamics,Chapter 1,Four methods: field survey, theoretical analysis, experimental study, numerical simulation.,experimental study,numerical simulation,6. Homewor

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