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服装英语(第三版) Chapter 1Part A An Evolution of Fashion(时装业的演变) The world of fashion began with individual couturiers and evolved, as a result of the Industrial Revolution, into a mass-market industry. evolution 英 ,i:v lu:n 美 , vlu:n n.演变; 进化; 发展individual 英 ,individjul 美 ,ind vidul adj. 1.个别的, 单独的, 个人的;个体的couturier 英 ku:turi n.女裁缝师,女装设计师,女式时装店couture 英 kutju:美kutur n. 1.高级时装业2.女装设计evolved 英 ivlvd 1. 进化了的 2. 进化演变 3. 发展,展开,使逐渐形成as a result of 由于Industrial Revolution 工业革命mass-market 大规模经营(市场)industry n 产业、工业(时装业最初起源于个体高级时装设计师,后来由于工业革命,发展成现在的大规模经营的产业。)By studying this evolution, we become better equipped to understand the organization of the fashion industry and the directions in which it is moving.become better equipped to 更好地direction 英 direkn n.方向, 趋向, 趋势, 动向(通过研究这种演变,我们可以更好地认识时装业的产业结构及其发展趋势。)The Beginning of Couture(高级时装业的开始)Although the history until the late 1700s that of fashion may be traced back hundreds of years, it was not individuality of design began to emerge. Styles were set by royalty and carried out by the dressmakers who served them. Only the upper class could afford what was fashionable and finely produced. The poor made their own clothing or wore the cast-offs of the rich. traced back 被追溯individuality 英 ,ind,vidu:liti: n个性, 个人特征, 特质emerge 英 im:d n.出现; 显出; 暴露royalty 英 rilti n.王族(成员)、皇室dressmaker 裁缝afford 英 f:d vt.买得起, 担负得起old cast-offs 废弃的旧衣物 wore wear的过去式,穿、戴 By the end of the 18th century, one name had emerged in fashion design - RoseBentin. Initially a milliners apprentice, she became Frances premier designer.As a result of the recognition she received from the Princess de Conti, Benin was appointed court milliner in 1772. In that position, she was introduced to Marie Antoinette. She soon became the queens confidante as well as her official designer. Initially 英 inili adv. 最初,开始milliner 英 milin n. 女帽商apprentice 英 prentis n.学徒, 徒弟premier 英 premi adj. 1.最好的, 最重要的2.首要的,首位的;最前的;第一的recognition 英 ,reknin n. 1.认识; 认出; 识别; 承认; 认可2.酬谢, 酬劳3.赞誉;赏识;奖赏princess 英 prinses n. 公主 王妃confidante 英 ,knfidnt n.知己的女友 (到了18世纪末,在时装设计界出现一个名字罗斯本廷)(她由最初的一个女帽商的学徒,成为了法国最好的服装设计师。)(由于受到公主德孔蒂的赏识, 本廷在1772年被任命为宫廷【皇家】女帽商) (在那个职位上,她被介绍给女王玛丽安托瓦内特。) (她很快就成了女王的红颜知己以及她的官方设计师。) Eventually, Bertinbecame Minister of Fashion for the French court. As her reputation grew, she was commissioned to design hats and dresses for the aristocracy. Her fame spread to othercountries, and she soon started to export her merchandise. eventually 英 iventjuli adv 最后、终于minister 英 minist n. 部长、大臣reputation 英 ,repjutein n.名气, 名声, 名誉grew 英 ru: grow的过去式commission 英 kmin vt. 委任, 委托aristocracy 英 ,ristkrsi: 贵族fame 英 feim n. 名声, 名望merchandise 英 m:tndaiz 经营、买卖、商品 (最终,Bertin成为法国宫廷的服装设计总监【服装大臣】。) (她开始出名了,她被委托为贵族设计帽子和服装。)(她的名声传播到其他国家,她很快就开始出口贸易。 Garments for the wealthy class were elaborately tailored and trimmed. Each piece was hand sewn, embroidered, jeweled, and embellished to perfection. elaborately 英 ilbreitli adv 苦心经营、精心地tailored 英 teild adj. 1.剪裁讲究的2.订做的;合身的 3.特制的;专门的trimmed 英 trimd adj 修剪sewn 英 sn sew的过去分词 缝纫embroidered 英 embrid 绣花;刺绣jeweled 英 du:ld adj 饰有宝石的embellish 英 embeli 美化;装饰;修饰;润色perfection英音:pfekn美音:pfkn完美;尽善尽美(对于贵族阶级,服装都是精心制作的。) (每一个衣片都是手工缝制、绣花、镶嵌宝石,并且精美装饰。) Aside from Bertin, the names of the dressmakers to the royal families and the aristocracy were generally unknown. Those who employed them jealously guarded their identities to avoid losing them to other families. 1 Aside from 除了jealously delsli adv 1.妒忌的, 猜疑的2.妒羡的; 羡慕的3.精心守护的, 珍惜的identity 英 aidentiti n. 1.身份2.个性, 特性3.同一性, 一致性 (除了Bertin,受雇于皇室和贵族的裁缝们的名字通常是未知的。)(那些裁缝的雇主们对他们的身份严格保密,唯恐别家把他们挖走。) During the early 19th century, the opulent designs that dominated the wardrobes of the rich began to disappear; less elaborate dress became the order of the day. It was not until after 1845, when the Englishman Charles Frederick Worth emigrated to Paris, that the world would come to know another designer. In Paris, he first worked for a fabric dealer, whom he convinced to open a dress department. opulent 英 pjlnt adj. 1.富裕的,豪华的dominate 英 dmineitid vt.&vi.1.控制,支配,统治,左右,影响2.在中占首要地位wardrobe 英 w:drub n. 1.衣柜, 衣橱;英放置衣物的壁橱the order of 头等大事,最重要的事emigrated 英 emireitd 移民到国外dealer 英 di:l 商人convince 英 knvins vt. 1.使相信;使明白,使确信2.说服,劝说(某人做某事) (在19世纪初, 曾经在富人衣柜中占首要地位的豪华设计逐渐消失;而相对简单的女装开始大行其道。) (直到1845年后,英国人查尔斯弗雷德里克沃斯移居巴黎,世界才了解到另一个设计师。) (在巴黎,他先为一个面料商人工作,他说服面料商人开了一家服装店。) In 1858, Worth was the first to open a couture house on Rue de la Paix. Along with a list of private clients in Europe and America, he was court dressmaker to Empress Eugenie of France. His success would soon motivate others to establish their own couture businesses.couture 英 kutju:r n. 1.服装设计(师)或其服装店Rue de la Paix 和平路、和平街Along with 随着a list of private clients private 英 praivit client 英 klaint客户秘密名单court adj. 1.宫廷的Dressmaker n (女装)裁缝Empress Eugenie of France 法国女皇尤金妮娅motivate 英 mutiveit 激发、激励establish 英 istbli 建立、成立 (1858年,沃斯是第一次在和平街开了一家服装设计店。) (除了拥有在欧洲和美国的客户秘密名单外,他还是法国女皇尤金妮娅的宫廷裁缝。) (他的成功,很快就会激励他人建立自己的服装企业。) Fed by the magnificent textiles and trimmings of nearby Lyon, it was natural for Paris to establish itself as the worlds leading center for couture.magnificent 英 mnifisnt adj. 1.壮丽的; 宏伟的; 值得赞扬的textiles 纺织品trimmings 饰品 辅料nearby 附近的 (由附近的里昂提供上好的纺织品面料和辅料,巴黎自然成为世界服装设计中心。)The Industrial Revolution(工业革命) Until about 1770, people worked in much the same manner as did their ancestors. Products were slowly made by hand. Cloth was hand woven, and a cobbler still used only a hammer, knife and awl to make a shoe over a last or form. 2industrial 英 indstril adj. 工业的, 产业的ancestor 英 nsist n. 祖先, 祖宗woven weave的过去分词)cobbler 英 kbl n. 修鞋匠hammer 英 hm 锤子、榔头awl 英 :l 锥子dress form 服装模特、人台 (直到1770年,人们仍然以与他们祖先相同的方式进行工作。产品是由手工慢慢制作出来的。) (当时,布都是手工织的,鞋匠还在利用锤子、刀具和锥子在鞋楦上制鞋。) During this time, the Western world witnessed the growth of the middle class, which prospered from new avenues of trade and industry, and spent money on such luxuries as fine clothing. As the middle class grew in importance, its members created new fashion directions. The business suit, for example, became an important element in a mans wardrobe. Before long, fine tailor shops were opened in Londons Savile Row to provide this new business attire. witness 英 witnis vt 见证prosper 英 prsp vi 成功; 兴旺; 繁荣; 发达avenue 英 vinju: n. 1.林阴道(尤指通往大住宅者), 大街2.途径, 手段luxury 英 lkri 奢侈品grew in 增加element 英 elimnt 成分, 要素, 原件, 基本部份, 典型部份tailor 英 teil =dessmaker 裁缝attire 英 tai 服装= garment ; apparel ; clothing ; dress (这一时期,中产阶级在西方世界兴起,他们通过做生意和办企业发家致富,并且愿意花钱买高级服装。) (由于中产阶层重要性的增长,其成员创造了新的时尚的方向。) (例如,西装外套在男人的衣柜里成为了重要的服装。)(不久,好的裁缝店都在伦敦的萨维尔街开设,为中产阶级提供这种新的商业着装。) Changes, however, were taking place in the methods of production. In large part, they could be attributed to the growth of the textile industry, which was revolutionized by a series of timesaving inventions (Table. 1). 3 (然而产品的生产方式发生了变化,主要原因是一系列省时的发明给纺织业带来了革命性的变化,推动了纺织业的发展。)In 1733, John Kay received a patent for his flying shuttle, which resulted in the manufacture of a loom that produced materials more rapidly. (1733年,约翰凯获得梭子织机的专利权,这项专利使得加工纺织材料的织机的生产更迅速。)Similarly, spinning was a slow process until1764, when James Hargreaves, a British spinner, invented the spinning jenny. (同样的,纺纱也是一个缓慢的发展过程, 直到1764,英国纺纱工詹姆士哈格里夫斯发明了多轴纺织机。He placed eight spindles on a frame, which could be turned by a single wheel. (他在一个机架上放8个纱锭,由一个轮子带动。) As a result, one spinner could simultaneously produce eight threads instead of producing one thread at a time. 4 (结果,一个纺纱工可以一次生产8根纱线,而不是一次一根。)Hargreaves later created a machine that could spin 16 threads at a time. (哈格里夫斯之后又发明了一次生产16根纱线的纺纱机。)Ultimately, even a child could run the machine and turn out work that had previously required 100 spinners. (最后,连小孩子也能开动这台机器,并完成曾经需要100个纺纱工的工作。)Then, in 1785, Edmund Cartwright invented the power loom, which wove cloth so rapidly that the handloom was quickly reserved for limited runs of special fabrics.(然后,在1785年,埃德蒙卡特莱特发明了动力织布机,动力织布机织布速度之快,以至于手动织机很快就被淘汰,仅用于特殊面料的织造。) l Table 1.1 Inventions of the Industrial Revolution that Changed Fashionl YearInventor发明者Invention发明l 1733 John Kay - Flying shuttle 梭子织机tl l 1764James Hargreaves - Spinning jenny多轴纺织机 spini deni 1. 1785 Edmund Cartwright - Power loom 动力织布机 lu:m l 1793 Eli Whitney - Cotton gin 轧棉机,轧花机 ginl 1846 Elias Howe, Jr. - Sewing machine 缝纫机 sil be attributed to 归功于 attribute 英 tribju:tl taking place in 发生l patent 英 peitnt 专利, 专利权l Flying shuttle 梭子织机tll spinner 英 spin 纺纱工l Spinning jenny多轴纺织机 spini denil simultaneously 英 samlteinisli .同时地previously 英 pri:vjsl 以前 The increased speed of the spinning machine resulted in demands for large supplies of cotton fiber. This problem was solved by an American, Eli Whitney. In1793, he invented the cotton gin, which separated the cotton seed from the fiber so quickly and expertly that one man was able to turn out the work that once required 300men. turn out vt. 翻转,生产,关闭,出动,证明是separated. From 把.从分离expertly 英 eksptli adv. 熟练地;巧妙地 (9)(纺纱机速度的增加导致对棉纤维的大量的需求。)(这个问题被一个美国人以利惠特尼解决。1793,他发明了轧棉机,它可以把棉籽从纤维迅速和熟练地分离,一个人就能够完成曾经需要300个人的工作。)(10)Because of the competitive advantage these inventions gave to manufacturers, England was very protective of its discoveries, and forbade the emigration of textile workers and the exportation of its textile machines. (由于这些发明使得英国的生产商具有很大的竞争优势,因此英国政府积极保护这些发明,禁止纺织工人移民他国和纺织机械的出口。)(11)Some workers, however, memorized the details of each machines construction. (但是,有些工人记住了每台机器的构造细节。)(12)These workers left England in disguise and were able to reproduce the machines in other countries. (这些工人假装离开英格兰,能够在其他国家复制机器。) (13)For example, Samuel Slater left England after learning the construction details for many textile machines. (例如,塞缪尔斯莱特在掌握了许多纺织机器的构造结构后离开了英国。)competitive 英 kmpetitiv adj.竞争的, 比赛的protective 英 prtektiv adj.保护的, 防护的forbade 英 fbd,fbeid forbid的过去式 fbid vt 禁止emigration 英 ,emigrei n n.移居外国;迁移出境(14) He opened a spinning mill in Rhode Island in 1790, where he introduced the factory system to the United States. (1790年,他在罗德岛开了一个纺纱厂,在那里他把纺纱工厂系统引入了美国。)(15)During the Civil War, the demand for fabrics to manufacture uniforms helped the growth of US mills, most of which were in New England. (在美国内战期间,由于用于制作制服的面料需求使得美国纺织工厂得到发展,其中大多数工厂在新英格兰。)(16)By the end of the war, the mills were capable of mass-producing textiles.(战争结束的时候,这些纺织厂已经能够大规模生产纺织品了。)(17)Fashion was now on the way to becoming a major industry in the United States, but one more step was necessary.(现在在美国时装以这种方式成为一个主要的工业,但是另外一个历程也是必要的。) exportation 英 ,eksp:tein n.出口memorize 英 memraiz vt.记住, 熟记,记忆disguise 英 disaiz 假装uniform 英 ju:nif:m n. 制服, 校服 adj. 相同的, 清一色的, 一致的, 统一的(18)Although fabrics were being produced faster than ever before, it was not until the development of the first sewing machine that the world would be treated to a new generation of fashion.(尽管生产面料的速度比以往更快,但是直到发明了第一台缝纫机,世界才进入时装的新时代。)(19)Although Walter Hunt invented a sewing machine in 1832, he did not apply for a patent until 1854, when it was denied on the grounds of abandonment. (虽然1832年沃尔特亨特发明了第一台缝纫机,但是由于在1854年以前他没有申请专利,所以这是他被拒绝承认是缝纫机发明者的原因。)(20)On September 10, 1846, however, Elias Howe, Jr. did receive a patent for his sewing machine. (然而,1846年9月10日,以利亚 豪 JR确实收到了他的缝纫机专利权。)As a result, he is generally regarded as its inventor. (结果,他通常被认为是缝纫机的发明者。) abandonment bndndmnt n.放弃;抛弃;遗弃;放任deny 英 dinai vt. 1.否认知情, 否定,否认2.拒绝; 拒绝给予3.拒绝承认;拒绝接受 sewing machine 缝纫机 (21 )His failure to market the machine successfully led to attempts by others to further develop the machine.(他在销售缝纫机上的失败却使得他人成功地进行了对缝纫机的改进。)(22)Finally, in 1858, Isaac Singer designed a machine that worked by the use of a foot treadle, thereby freeing the hands to manipulate the fabric. (最后,在1858年,艾萨克辛格设计了一台新缝纫机,这台机器使用脚踏板,由此可以不用手来操作缝纫机。)(23)That year, the Singer Sewing Manufacturing Company was incorporated and sales reached 3000 units. (那年,辛格缝纫制造有限公司成立并销售了3000多台。)With this invention, women began to sew professional-looking clothes at home, and factories experienced the birth of ready-to-wear apparel.(缝纫机的发明使得妇女在家就可以缝制出像专业人员制作的服装,现代成衣业也由此诞生了。) manipulate 英 mnipjuleit vt. 操作foot treadle 脚踏板incorporate 英 ink:preit vt. 1.包含, 加上, 吸收2.把合并, 使并入3.组成公司ready-to-wear apparel 现代成衣业 (24)These new inventions created what is now as the garment industry, which includes textiles, manufacturers, retailers, licenses, franchises, fashion communications and market consultants.(这些新发明形成了现代的服装行业,包括纺织品,制造商,零售商、专卖店、特许经营、时尚传播和市场咨询顾问。)license 英 laisns 执照franchise 英 frn,taiz (公司授予的)特许经销权consultant 英 knsltnt n. 顾问 The Future of Fashion 服装的未来(1)At the turn of the 21st century, the world of fashion continues to change. (到了二十一世纪,世界时装业继续改变着。) Traditional rules of the game, which included faithfully following the dictates of specific designers on such issues as dress length, are finally being broken.5(以前的服装设计,即使像服装的长度这样的细节都要由特定设计师指定,而现在这种传统的游戏规则最终被彻底打破了。) faithfully 英 feifuli adv. 忠实地dictate 英 dikteit vt. 指示; 指定; 指令issue 英 isju: n. 问题 (2)Although globally renowned designers are still crowding the runways with outrageous styles at prices that only a few can afford, new designers are showing fashions that reflect what is taking place on the streets, in the political arenas, in the entertainment field and in movements to protect the environment.(尽管世界顶级的设计师仍然使得T台上充斥着只有少数人可以承受的、价格不菲的高级时装样式,但是新一代的设计师却开始展示反映街头时尚、反映政治界、娱乐界的风云变幻,甚至是环保运动的时装。)global 英 lublli adj. 全球的, 全世界的renowned 英 rinaund adj.有名的;享有声誉的crowd 英 kraud 拥挤、充斥runway 英 rnwei 跑道outrageous 英 atreids adj. 1.骇人的;无法容忍的2.反常的;令人惊讶的arena 英 ri:n n. 1.表演场地, 竞技场2.活动或斗争的场所或场面entertainment 英 ,entteinmnt 娱乐圈,娱乐业;娱乐场所(3)Technology had risen to new heights. (技术已上升到一个新的高度。)Every segment of the fashion industry, from the production of raw materials to final distribution to the consumer, takes advantage of ever improving technological discoveries.(从原材料到最后销售给消费者, 时装业的每部分发展都是利用不断改进的技术发明。)(4)The most notable are the CAD (computer-aided design) systems, which eliminate the need for endless paper patterns and time spent by the designer creating them at the drafting table. (最明显的是CAD(计算机辅助设计)系统,节省了大量的纸张和由设计师在制图桌上绘制样板图所花费的大量时间。)(5)Other electronic applications, however, are moving the fashion industry into areas that not long ago seemed like fantasy.(然而,其他的电子应用软件系统正在将时装业引入不久前似乎还是想象的领域。)segment 英 semnt 部分raw 英 r: 未加工的,天然的distribution 英 ,distribju:n n. 1.分配;分布2.运销,经销,分销eliminate 英 ilimineit vt. 1.消除2.排除fantasy 英 fntsi n. 想像, 幻想 (6)For example, providing on-line computer services has enormous implications for fiber producers, end-product manufacturers, market consultants, retailers and promoters of fashion. 6 (比如,提供网上的服务(电子商务)就对包括纤维生产商、成品生产商、营销顾问、零售商和服装推销商在内的整个服装业产生了巨大的影响。)(7)The Internet has gained prominence as a vehicle for communicating, advertising, selling to suppliers and customers. (互联网已经成为供应商和顾客之间进行沟通、广告、销售的一种重要传播媒介。)Information about major retailers is available on-line. (主要的零售商可以在网上发布信息。)(8)Individuals can download pictures of merchandise over their modem lines and place orders or ask questions via e-mail. (个人可以通过他们的调制解调器线路(网线)下载商品的图片,并且还可以通过电子邮件进行订货或提问。)enormous 英 in:ms 巨大的、极大的implication 英 ,implikein 影响(或作用、结果)consultant 英 knsltnt 顾问promoter 英 prmt 促销、促进vehicle 英 vi:ikl 传播媒介prominence 英 prminns 重要的via 英 vai prep. 1.通过(某人), 凭借(某种手段)2.经由, 经过 (9)Another time saving and money saving invention is the fax machine, which disseminates information in a matter of seconds, enabling a design that originates in one country to be quickly copied in another.(另一个省时和省钱的发明是传真机,它可以在几秒钟内传播信息, 能够使一个国家的设计图快速地复制到另外一个国家。)By transmitting the design electronically, time and effort needed for traditional transmission is eliminated.(通过电子传输,节省了传统传递所需的时间和工作。)disseminate 英 disemineit 传播originate 英 ridineit 来自、源自于transmission 英 trnzmin 传播 (10)No one can predict the future of fashion - which the major players will be or how successful certain styles will become.(没有人可以预测未来的时装业主要的竞争者究竟是谁,或者某个流行款式是什么。)By examining the past, one may begin to understand what this industry is all about and the number of variables that interact in marketplace.(通过回顾过去,你可能理解时装业究竟是怎么一回事以及影响时装市场的诸多因素。)all about 关于的一切interact 英 ,intrkt vi. 1.相互作用影响, 互相配合2.交流;沟通;合作(11) Many people - some famous, some unknown - impact the fashion industry. (一些著名的、无名的人们影响着时装业的发展。)For example, anyone interested in fashion knows the names of such contemporary designers as Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, and such past legends as Chanel, Balenciaga and Dior, but who can name a well-known patternmaker, sewer or trimmer?(例如, 对时装感兴趣的人知道当代设计师的名字,如唐娜卡拉,拉尔夫劳伦

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