中华传统服饰双语讲座(第二部分).ppt

ChineseClothing Part2 中华传统服饰 Dress uptipsofthewomenintheTangDynasty 唐朝妆束 初唐高宗龙朔初唐武周初盛唐玄宗开元盛唐玄宗天宝晚唐大和咸通 襦 半臂 裙 大袖衫 披帛 Women sdressandpersonaladornmentsoftheTangDynastywereoutstandinginChina shistory Theclothingmaterialswereexquisite 优雅 精致 thestructurewasnatural gracefulandelegant andadornments 饰品 weresplendid ThedressesoftheTangDynastyweremainlymadeofsilk sodresseswerefamousforsoftnessandlightness ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty 206BC 220AD andtheSuiDynasty 581 618 theywereinfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions Especially thenationalpoweroftheHighTangwasstrong ThetradesandculturalexchangeswithKorea Vietnam Japan Persiaandothercountriesgraduallybecamefrequent andtheymutuallydispatchedemissariesandacceptedstudentsofothercountries Inthisway aspecialopenandromanticstyleofdressandpersonaladornmentswasformed ThedressesoftheTangDynastyboldlyadoptedthefeaturesofforeigngarmentsintermsofformsandadornments i e theymainlyreferredtothegarmentsofothercountries suchastheCentral Asiacountries India Iran Persia northerncountriesandtheWesternRegions andusedthemtoimprovethecultureoftheTangDynasty 唐屏风绢画胡服美人图 翻领袍和浑脱帽 ThegarmentsintheTangDynastyalsogreatlyaffectedthegarmentsofneighboringcountries Forinstance JapanesekimonoadoptedtheelitesofthedressesoftheTangDynastyintermsofcolors andtheHanbok 韩服 traditionalKoreanclothing alsoadoptedtheadvantagesofthedressesoftheTangDynasty 奈良 飞鸟时期的日本 中晚唐广袖衫 十二单CourtierrobeofJapan 天皇家族传统常服 公家文化和武家文化有很大区别However theclothingoftheCourtandtheWarlordswerequitedifferent SomeTipsofAttractionoftheTangDynastywomen Women sappearance alongwiththeirgoodmorality properspeech anddiligenthousework werecompulsorycriteria 强制标准 ofgoodwomen Butanenduringbeautystandardisasfollows arosyplumpovalface 红润的鹅蛋脸 new moon shapedeyebrows 新月眉 delicateandsoftlimbsandfingers andfineporcelain 瓷 skin Adancerwhoappearedin2008OlympicsOpeningCeremony 杜甫丽人行 三月三日天气新 长安水边多丽人 态浓意远淑且真 肌理细腻骨肉匀 绣罗衣裳照暮春 蹙金孔雀银麒麟 头上何所有 翠微榼叶垂鬓唇 背后何所见 珠压腰衱稳称身 就中云幕椒房亲 赐名大国虢与秦 唐代张萱 虢国夫人游春图 局部 白居易时世妆 时世妆 时世妆 出自城中传四方 时世流行无远近 腮不施朱面无粉 乌膏注唇唇似泥 双眉画作八字低 妍媸黑白失本态 妆成尽似含悲啼 圆鬟无鬓堆髻样 斜红不晕赭面状 昔闻被发伊川中 辛有见之知有戎 元和妆梳君记取 髻堆面赭非华风 后汉书 中长安时谚 城中好高髻 四方高一尺 城中好广眉 四方且半额 城中好大袖 四方全匹帛 楚王好细腰 宫女多饿死 刘嘉玲和刘晓庆版的武则天 2009 1994 WhichEmpressWuwascorrectlydressedupinEarlyTang 陈家林导演电视剧 法门寺猜想 TangDynastyeyebrowspaintedinbluishblackwerecalleddaimei 黛眉 long fineeyebrowswereemei 蛾眉 andguangmei 广眉 eyebrowsthatwereshortandthick Facialmakeupwasanelaborate 一丝不苟的 processforTangDynastywomen Itbeganwithafoundationoffacepowder 敷铅粉 followedbyrougeandadustingoflightyellowpowder 涂胭脂 鹅黄 Bluishblackeyebrowswerethenpainstakinglypaintedin lipstick 唇脂 applied anddimples 酒窝 eitheraddedoraccentuated 面靥 Lastwasanornamentaldesign 花钿 eitherpastedorpaintedontheforehead Tangbeautiespastedontheirforeheadswereoftenofbirdfeathersorblackpaper andpossiblyofshell goldleaf 金箔 fishboneormica 云母 宋仁宗皇后像 幂篱 帷帽唐骑马俑 WomeninEartlyTanglikedtocovertheirfacewithweimaowhentheywereout Itcouldprotecttheirfacefromsandanddust yetmakethemfullofmysteriousattraction ThisexoticfashionstartedevenbeforeHanDynasty introducedby Barbarians fromwestern middleAsian countries Wusun DaYuezhi Anxi etc andthenprevailedamongwomenofupperclass 电影 古今大战秦俑情 电视剧 贞观之治 Men sClothingintheTangDynasty 唐朝男子服饰之圆领袍Round collarRobe 唐朝男子服饰之幞头 handkerchiefonhead headband Headband 幞头 巾子 hadbeenverypopulardur