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Unit 3 Textile Yarns and Spinning TechnologyPart One: Warming-up ExercisesEx. 1 1. She lived in late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty. 2. Because she could not bear maltreatment of her parents-in-law (when she was young). 3. Hainan Island. 4. She learned the techniques from women of Li, an ethnic group there. 5. Refer to the script.Ex. 2 1.T 2. F 3. F 4. F 5. T 6. F 7. T 8. T Ex. 3 1. “Intelligent clothing” that may protect us from thieves, identify health problems, and tell us when we forget our keys. 2. A T-shirt that is able to measure heart rate and body temperature.3. Clothing with a special fabric keyboard to send e-mailsPart Two: Reading-centered ActivityPassage 1 Ex. 1.Reading comprehension1) Yarns are long strands of fiber that are used as threads, cords or components in the production of fabrics. Yarns are formed by combining or using textile fibers as a long strand. 2) Yarns may be classified through a variety of means: by the length of fibers and processes used to form the yarn; by the twist in the yarn; by the size of the yarn; by the number of parts used in the development of the yarn and by the complexity of the structure of the yarn.3) Textile products can be enhanced and made more serviceable by selecting yarns that feature a set of desirable characteristics.4) The spinning process turns a single type of fiber or group of various fibers into a continuous strand by twisting and pulling the fibers into shape. The resultant strand is known as a spun yarn.5) In preparation for the spinning process, short fibers are carded. Carding directs textile fibers into relatively one direction to create a loosely assembled but somewhat uniform rope known as a sliver. Slivers of different fibers may be twisted together to form a blended strand in a process called roving. In instances where the staple fibers are longer, the fibers may also undergo a process known as combing. Combing takes place after carding and is intended to further align the fibers.6) If the spun yarn is comprised of wool fibers or wool blends, specific terms are used to refer to carded or combed yarns. Yarns of longer wool fibers that have been carded are called woolen yarns while yarns of shorter wool fibers that have been combed are termed worsted yarns.7) Yarn quantities are usually measured by weight in ounces or grams.8) There are several thicknesses of yarn, also referred to as weight. This naming convention is more descriptive than precise; fiber artists disagree about where on the continuum each lies, and the precise relationships between the sizes.9) A more precise measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps per inch (wpi).10) Labels on yarn for handcrafts often include information on gauge, known in the UK as tension, which is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are produced per inch or per centimeter on a specified size of knitting needle or crochet hook.Ex. 2Vocabulary1) align a. In return they must demand the right to constrain institutions behavior and align their risks with societys interests. 反过来,政府必然会要求有权约束机构的行为,使其风险与社会利益相符。b. He neatly aligned the flower-pots on the window-sill. 他整齐地把花盆一字排在窗台上。2) carda. To achieve this, but also the need to conduct a detailed analysis and carding.要做到这点,又要对人的需要进行详细的分析和梳理。b. I could actually swipe a card and generate electronic receipt via email and then send it out to a person. 这下,我真的能刷刷卡,发一封邮件,把电子回执,发给对方。3) featurea. Now thats not always going to happen but its kind of a nice feature about Nash Equilibrium. 虽然这不总会发生,但这也是纳什均衡的一个亮点。b. Round-the-clock service features this store. 日夜服务是这家商店的特色。c. Can you feature wearing a necktie here? 在这样的地方打着领带你能想像吗? 4) fingering a. She stood on the platform, nervously fingering her dress. 她站在月台上,神经紧张地抚弄自己的衣服。 b. He works hard. He practices scales, fingering, melody and rhythm. 他努力地练习着音阶,指法,曲调和节奏。5) rovinga. First, fibers having smooth surfaces require less roving twist for satisfactory packaging, handling, and performance in spinning. 第一,光滑表面的纤维只要求较少的粗纱捻度,以取得满意的卷装运输和下一步纺纱性能。 b. He is a widower with a roving eye and the morals of a stray dog. 他是一个眼睛滴溜溜乱转,道德水准和一条野狗差不多的 鳏夫 。 6) slivera. If you look at the horizon at sunsetexactly as the last sliver of sun disappearsyou might see a flash of brilliant green blaze across the sky. 如果你恰好在日落时分,当阳光的最后一长条消失在天际时仰望地平线,你可以看见天边有一道一闪而过的绿光。 b. The log has slivered into kindling. 那块木头已劈成了木柴。 7) staplea. A storage room is set aside especially to deposit fresh bamboo-which is the staple food for the pandas in their natural habitat. 熊猫的住宅旁边还另外建了一间储藏室,用来贮存新鲜的竹子,这可是熊猫天生就爱吃特殊食物。 b. That was good for about 10 seconds before it snapped out of that cheap little staple they put it in there with. 它可以坚持用10分钟,之后就会从那个廉价订书钉里掉出来。 c. Archaeologists have found that the Philistine diet leaned heavily on grass pea lentils, an Aegean staple.考古学家发现地中海东岸古国腓力斯人的饮食主要是草香豌豆扁豆,一种爱琴海的主食。8) tensiona. In fluids, forces of tension and shear can often be ignored. 在流体中,张力和切力通常可以忽略不计。b. Arab moderates may be able to convince the Bush administration that the best way to ease tension would be for America itself to be more flexible. 阿拉伯温和派也许能说服布什政府相信,缓和紧张形势的最佳方式可能是使美国自身变得更加有弹性。 9) twista. .She twisted many threads to make this rope. 她用许多条线搓成这条绳子。b. The newspaper report twisted what the pop singer had said. 报纸上的报道歪曲了这名流行歌手说的话。10) worsta. Worst of all, bonuses are being paid in part from subsidies: this is not a free market, but a perversion of it. 最糟糕的是,一部分奖金来源于补助金:这不是一个自由的市场,恰恰相反,这是个反常的市场。b. Color-difference of combing worsted spinning is very important to quality control. 精梳毛织品的成品色差是产品质量控制的重要指标之一。Ex.3Translation1) 彩色纺纱线在棉针织行业的需求正逐年上升,发展前景看好。(spun yarn)Color-spun yarn enjoys increasing demand in the cotton knitting sector and good market prospects.2) 在每一类型中通过改变特征,能够得到具有一系列独特性质的纱线。(take on)By varying characteristics in each of the classifications, yarns take on a unique set of qualities.3) 一点点天才,更多的是深刻的真理(约翰西蒙)。(sliver)A smidgen of genius, a sliver of cutting truth ( John Simon).4) 我们生产各种比例的粗梳纱线,像山羊绒、羊毛、兔毛、尼龙等,支数在828支。(woolen yarn)We produce all kinds of woolen yarn such as cashmere, wool, angora blended, 8NM28NM.5) 在梳棉之后是精梳,精梳使纤维的排列进一步具有指向性。(take place)Combing takes place after carding and is intended to further align the fibers.Passage 2Ex.1Reading comprehension1) Archaeologists believe that sheep existed before Homo sapiens evolved. Sheep have been dated back to the early Pleistocene period, around 1 million years ago.2) Probably the yarn production would have been done by two people working together, one cleaning and spinning the wool, the other winding the yarn into a ball. 3) Flax was probably the most common ancient plant fiber made into yarns, though hemp was also used. Although flax thread is mentioned in the Biblical records of Genesis and Exodus, its antiquity is even more ancient than the Bible. 4) In the early 1960s, this was superseded by the ring and traveler, or ring spinning, which, despite other subsequent later inventions, has remained the main commercial method and is now an almost fully automated process. 5) Today, yarn production is a highly advanced technology that facilitates the engineering of different yarn structures having specific properties for particular applications. Ex. 2Translation1) 纺纱工艺spinning technology2) 环锭纺纱ring spinning3) 短纤纱 staple-spun yarns 4) 家用纺织品household textile 5) 多轴纺织机spinning jenny 6) 木乃伊裹布 mummy cloth7) 无结纱线knotless lengths 8) 纺纱用的人造短纤维staple fibers Passage 3Ex.1Reading comprehension1) F2) F3) T4) F5) TEx.2Vocabulary1) Nor is it easy to _ the effects of climate change from those of avoidable failures in policy. (disentangle) 同时也很难理清是因为气候变化的影响还是那些可以避免的政策失误。2) The thread has not been passed through the notch of the_ case tension spring. (bobbin) 底线不能进入到梭壳的线张力弹簧下面。3) Because of his good public image he has _gained office. (successively) 由于他在公众中的良好形象,他已连续竞选获胜。4) All surfaces are free of _ to prevent the accumulation of dirt. (burrs) 所有的表面都没有粘附物以防止污垢堆积。5) If something is not in _ with your life goal, drop it or set it aside. (alignment) 如果某件事和你的生活目标不一致,那么放弃或者放在一边。6) Morrison should try to get away from them in the third _. (lap) 莫里森应该在跑第三圈时摆脱他们。7) Even if the genes themselves are not _ hazardous, you do not know how they are going to evolve. (initially) 即使基因本身起初是没有危险的,但你不知道它们将如何演化。8) Look for the center of your fabric by folding it in half sideways and then again _. (lengthwise) 查找您的面料中心横折一半 ,然后再纵向。Tapescript:Unit Three Textile Yarns and Spinning Technology1. Huang DaopoHuang Daopo of late Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD) and early Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368 AD) was from Wunijing of Songjiang. Since she could not bear maltreatment of her parents-in-law when she was young, she left her hometown and wandered to Hainan Island. The area is abundant in cotton, and the people of the Li ethnic group there had started a textile industry long ago. Huang Daopo lived with the Li women and learnt from them the techniques of planting, spinning and weaving cotton.Now gray at the temples, Huang Daopo came back to her hometown 30 years later. She taught people in Songjiang the textile technique she had learnt in Hainan. At the same time she also popularized and innovated textile machines that greatly increased efficiency. She improved on the cotton fluffer and successively made the most advanced textile tool of the time, a pedal spinning wheel with three spindles. Combining the advanced textile technique of the Li ethnic group with the traditional weaving techniques of the Han, she also produced textiles such as bedding with various patterns called “Wunijing Bedding”.After Huang Daopo died, local people buried her near Wunijing Town, and also compiled a ballad to commemorate this ordinary but also great ancient clever woman. The popular ballad is as follows: “Granny Huang, Granny Huang, teaches me spinning, teaches me weaving, two spindles and two bolts of cloth.”(选编自/people/article/2010-04/21/content_123070.htm)注释:1. Huang Daopo: 黄道婆(12451330年),又名黄婆或黄母,宋末元初知名棉纺织家。由于传授先进的纺织技术以及推广先进的纺织工具,而受到百姓的敬仰。在清代的时候,被尊为布业的始祖。2. Wunijing of Songjiang: 松江府乌泥泾镇,今上海市华泾镇。3. Li: 黎族,中国岭南民族之一,以农业为主,妇女精于纺 织,“黎锦”、“黎单”闻名于世。4. Fluffer: 松软物Exercises: Directions: Listen to the following passage carefully and then answer the questions. 1. Which dynasty (ies) did Huang Daopo live in?2. Why did Huang Daopo leave her hometown?3. Where did Huang Daopo go after she left her hometown?4. Whom did Huang Daopo learn the techniques of planting, spinning and weaving cotton from?5. Please list some of the contributions of Huang Daopo to the textile industry of China. Keys: 1. She lived in late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty. 2. Because she could not bear maltreatment of her parents-in-law (when she was young). 3. Hainan Island. 4. She learned the techniques from women of Li, an ethnic group there. 5. Refer to the script.2. The Story of SilkSilk was discovered in China at least 4500 years ago. A Chinese legend has it that the emperor Huang Di (the yellow emperor) accidentally dropped a silkworm cocoon in his tea, and observed its shining fiber as it began to unwind.The silkworm is the caterpillar of the moth Bombyx mori. It is a completely domesticated insect. There are no wild silkworms and silkworms cant live without human care.The silkworm caterpillar grows to about three inches long on a diet of nothing but white mulberry leaves. Then it spins a cocoon about itself and metamorphoses into an adult moth. The adults mate, lay eggs and die in just a few days.The silk is a continuous thread, as much as half a mile long, which makes up the cocoon. The silkworm has a pair of glands which produce a liquid form of the protein fibroin. Fibroin emerges from a silk gland as a continuous fiber coated with the other silk protein, a sticky substance called sericin. The two glands form two fibers which are then spun together by a specialized organ, the spinneret.The collected cocoons are put into very hot water, which, of course kills the silkworm. A single thread is prized loose from the wet cocoon and unrolled. The best quality silk is unrolled by hand. When the whole cocoon has been unrolled, the little cooked silkworm provides a snack for the worker.Silkworms played a big part in medical history. The Chinese had had a monopoly on silk production for millennia, but in the nineteenth century, French producers got a few cocoons and established a local silk industry. Soon, however, the silkworms began dying of an unknown disease. The silk raisers turned for help to Louis Pasteur, who was able to discover that the disease was caused by bacteria, and prescribe the sanitary procedures that saved the French silk industry. That convinced Pasteur that many diseases were caused by bacteria. It marked the beginning of the modern age of medicine.(选编自/c_rader0/silkworm.htm)注释:1. Metamorphoses: vt. 使变形,使变质 vi.变形; 变质2. Gland: n. 腺3. Fibroin: n. 蚕丝蛋白4. Sericin: n. 丝胶蛋白5. Spinneret: (蜘蛛,蚕等的)吐丝器6. Louis Pasteur: (18221895) 法国微生物学家,化学家。他在世界上第一次完整地揭开了细菌或病毒作怪的奥秘;开辟了医学中的细菌学时代,他是近代微生物学的奠基人,法国杰出的生物学家化学家。(参考百度百科/view/1302052.htm)Exercises: Directions: Listen to “The Story of Silk” carefully and decide whether the following statements are true or false. Put “T” for True and “F” for False in the spaces provided. _ 1. Its said that silk was first found by the Chinese emperor Huang Di about thousands of years ago._ 2. Silkworms are wild caterpillars which cannot be domesticated completely._ 3. Besides mulberry, the silkworm eats eggs in order to spin a cocoon and turn into an adult moth._ 4. The adult moths lay eggs and die in just a few weeks._ 5. The cocoon is made up of silk which is about half a mile long. _ 6. The best quality silk is unrolled by hand while the silkworm in the cocoon is kept alive. _ 7. In the nineteenth century, French producers got a few cocoons and established a local silk industry._ 8. Pasteur succeeded in saving the silkworms and found that many diseases were caused by bacteria, which marked the beginning of the modern age of medicine.Keys:1.T 2. F 3. F 4. F 5. T 6. F 7. T 8. T 3. Intelligent ClothingScientists are developing clo

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