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ChineseChinese FoodFood Few things in life are as positive as food or are taken as intimately and completely by the individual One can listen to music but the sound may enter in one ear and go out through the other one may listen to a lecture or conversation and day dream about many other things one may attend to matters of business and one s heart or interest may be altogether elsewhere In the matter of food and eating however one can hardly remain completely indifferent to what one is doing for long How can one remain entirely indifferent to something which is going to enter one s body and become part of oneself How can one remain indifferent to something which will determine one s physical strength and ultimately one s spiritual and moral fibre and well being Kenneth Lo 生活中很少有什么东西像食物这样真切实在 或者说那么彻底的为个人接纳吸收 一个 人可能在听音乐 但是音乐可以从一只耳朵进从另一只耳朵出 一个人可以在听讲座时胡 思乱想 一个人可以在料理生意上的事务而他的心思和兴趣另有所属 而在吃饭就 餐时 一个人几乎不可能长时间的对自己正在做的事完全无动于衷 一个人怎么能对即将 进入身体并成为身体一部分的东西保持绝对的无动于衷呢 一个人怎么能对即将决定自己 体力以及最终决定自己的精神和道德品质以及幸福安康的东西无动于衷呢 肯尼斯 洛 This is an easy question for a Chinese to ask but a Westerner might find it difficult to answer Many people in the West are gourmets and others are gluttons but scattered among them also is a large number of people who are apparently pretty indifferent to what goes into their stomachs and do not regard food as having any ultimate moral effect on them How they might ask could eating a hamburger or drinking Coca Cola contribute anything to making you a saint or a sinner For them food is quite simply a fuel 这是一个中国人常问的问题 而西方人却很难作答 在西方 很多人都是美食家 还有其 他一些是暴饮暴食者 而混杂于这两者中间的还有一种对吃进肚子的食物漠不关心的 这 些人也许会问 吃一个汉堡 喝点可口可乐就会变成圣人或罪人 对于他们来说 食物就 是一种能量 Kenneth Lo however expresses a point of view that is profoundly different and typically Chinese deriving from thousands of years of tradition The London restaurateur Fu Tong for example quotes no less an authority than Confucius the ancient Sage known in Chinese as K ung Fu Tzu with regard to the primal importance of food Food said the sage is the first happiness Fu Tong adds Food to my countrymen is one of the ecstasies of life to be thought about in advance to be smothered with loving care throughout its preparation and to have time lavished on it in the final pleasure of eating 肯尼斯 洛认却表达了一种截然不同的 典型的中国化的观点 这种观点源于从几千年中 国文化 例如 一家伦敦餐馆的董福就引用了如同孔夫子 中国人陈这位古代圣人为孔夫 子 的权威人士的话 圣者言 食乃是人生最大的幸福 董福还说 食物对中国人来说 是生活中的一大乐事 需要预先准备 需要精心烹饪 还要肯花时间去享受吃得乐趣 Lo observes that when Westerners go to a restaurant they ask for a good table which means a good position from which to see and be seen They are usually there to be entertained socially and also incidentally to eat When the Chinese go to a restaurant however they ask for a small room with plain walls where they cannot be seen except by the members of their own party where jackets can come off and they can proceed with the serious business which brought them there The Chinese intentions are both honourable and whole hearted to eat with a capital E 洛发现西方人进餐馆时都会要个不错的桌位 也就是自己可以看到他人 他人也可以看到 你的好位子 他们去那里通常只是一种社交娱乐 同进附带着吃些什么 但中国人却不一 样 他会选一个除了聚会成员谁都看不到的地方 这样他们可以很随便的脱掉外套 可以 开始这件严肃的事情 吃饭 那才是他们来这的目的 中国人的意图 是高尚的 是全心 全意的 即吃饭是头等大事 Despite such a marked difference in attitudes towards what one consumes there is no doubt that people in the West have come to regard the cuisine of China as something special In fact one can assert with some justice that Chinese food is nowadays the only truly international food It is ubiquitous Restaurants bedecked with dragons and delicate landscapes serving Such exotic as Dim Sin Gai sweet and sour chicken and Shao Shing soup Chiao Tzu and Kuo Tioh northern style and Ging Ai Kwar steamed aubergines have sprung up everywhere from Hong Kong to Honolulu to Hoboken to Huddersfield 尽管对于吃什么的态度很不一样 但勿庸疑置疑的是 西方人已经开始承认中国饮食的与 众不同 实际上 他们可以很公正地断言 中餐是当今世界唯一真正意义上的国际饮食 它无处不在 从香港到火奴鲁鲁 从呼伯肯到韩兹弗尔德 随处看见刻有龙腾的图案和精 致风景画的中式餐厅 经营者各种异国风味的糖醋鸡 绍兴汤 烧酒 锅贴 北方味 和清蒸茄子等 How did this come about Certainly a kind of Chinese food was exported to North America when many thousands of Chinese went there in the 19th century to work on such things as the U S railways They settled on or near the west coast where the famous or infamous chop suey joints grew up with their rather inferior brand of Chinese cooking The standard of the restaurants improved steadily in the United States but Lo considers that the crucial factor in spreading this kind of food throughout the Western world was population pressure in the British colony of Hong Kong especially after 1950 which sent families out all over the world to seek their fortunes in the opening of restaurants He adds however that this could not have happened if the world had not been interested in what the Hong Kong Chinese had to cook and sell He detects an increased interest in sensuality in the Western world Colour texture movement food drink and rock music all these have become much more part and parcel of the average person s life than they have ever been It is this increased sensuality and the desire for greater freedom from age bound habits in the West combined with the inherent sensual concept of Chinese food always quick to satisfy the taste buds that is at the root of the sudden and phenomenal spread of Chinese food throughout the length and breadth of the Western World 这是怎么回事呢 十九世纪成千上万的工人去美国去做诸如修建铁路之事时 食物也随之 传到了北美 他们在美国西海岸或靠近西海岸的地方定居 在那里知名的 不知名的 杂 烩店 开始风靡起来 经营的都是些低档次的中国菜 在美国 这些餐馆的档次在稳步提 高 但洛认为促使中餐在西方世界流行起来的关键因素在于英国殖民地 香港的巨大人 口压力 特别是 20 世纪 50 年代以后 许多家庭都想到世界各地开餐管赚钱 他还说 如 果世界对香港华人的烹饪和经营不感兴趣的话 也不可能发生这样的事情 他发现西方人 越来越重视感观上的享受 色泽 质地 运动 食物 饮料以及摇滚乐 这些都成为大部 分人生活中的重要组成部分 由于西方人这种与日俱增的感官享乐主义 与打破旧习获取 更多自由的渴望 在加上中国饮食所固有的感知理念 很容易满足人的味觉 才使得中国 饮食在全世界各地发展得如此迅速 There is no doubt that the traditional high quality Chinese meal is a serious matter fastidiously prepared and fastidiously enjoyed Indeed the bringing together and initial cutting up and organising of the materials is about 90 of the actual preparation the cooking itself being only about 10 This 10 is not however a simple matter There are many possibilities to choose from Kenneth Lo for example lists forty methods available for the heating of food from chu or the art of boiling to such others as ts ang a kind of stir frying and braising t a deep frying in batter and wei burying food in hot solids such as charcoal heated stones sand salt and lime 毫无疑问 一顿高质量的中餐是一件严肃的事情 制作考究 品位上乘 事实上 原材料 的粗加工 拼摆 以及搭配约占实际准备过程的 90 而烹饪本身只占 10 但就那 10 的 过程也非易事 有各种方法可供选择 例如 洛就列举了 40 种食物烹饪的方法 从煮到 煮沸的艺术到其它的方法如酱 一种炒加炖的方法 炸 把食物放在 在牛油里在炸 还有煨 把食物埋在火热的固体如木炭 石头 沙子 盐或石灰下的煨熟 The preparation is detailed and the enjoyment must therefore match it Thus a proper Chinese meal can last for hours and proceed almost like a religious ceremony It is a shared experience for the participants not a lonely chore with its procession of planned and carefully contrived dishes some elements designed to blend others to contrast Meat and fish solids and soups sweet and sour sauces crisp and smooth textures fresh and dried vegetables all these and more challenge the palate with their appropriate charms 准备工作十分详细 而美餐的享用自然也应与之匹配 因此吃一顿真正的中餐可能要好几 个小时 其过程就像一次宗教仪式 它需要从那与这共同分享 而非各自份额任务 因为 有一系列经认真策划 精心设计的菜肴 其中一些成分是用于调味 另一些则用于衬托 肉类 鱼类 炒菜 汤菜 酸汤甜汁 吹生生滑溜溜之物 鲜菜 干菜 所有这些以及其 他 他们各局特色都在调我们的胃口 In a Chinese meal that has not been altered to conform to Western ideas of eating everything is presented as a kind of buffet the guest eating a little of this a little of that Individual portions as such are not provided A properly planned dinner will include at least one fowl one fish and one meat dish and their presentation with appropriate vegetables is not just a matter of taste but also a question of harmonious colours The eye must be pleased as well as the palate if not then a certain essentially Chinese element is missing an element that links this cuisine with that most typical and yet elusive concept Tao 在一次为首西方饮食思潮影响的中餐中 所有食品摆在餐桌上 犹如一种自助餐 宾客们 可吃点这个 吃点那个 担任份饭是不会提供的 搭配合理的一餐至少应该包括一道鸡 一道鱼 和一道肉 而他们与适当的蔬菜搭配摆出也并非仅是味道的问题 也是要色泽搭 配问题 味觉要满足 视觉也是如此 否则 一种本质

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